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Predicted my next question! Although actually I wasn't going to ask it incase you said it was totally, absolutely necessary which would not have been what I wanted to hear. So I was intending to defend against cracked grout by ignoring the possibility. It's how I got where I am today. I totally get that its dumb to half arse things but when theres no money, theres no money. From a quick google it looks like it would be about 500quid for the area I need to do and just nope, I've already spent that on a big fat fridge that makes ice cubes because I wanted it. Also I know its not very thick but an unexpected extra few mm in the floor might be a problem. Being a genius, I have fitted all the doors and stairs and everything first so a higher floor would be an issue. vvv Same! I'll keep my fingers crossed for the pair of us. Although a power tool related incident makes it very painful to uncross them anyway. NotJustANumber99 fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Dec 17, 2017 |
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Dec 17, 2017 22:03
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This is why I still have no doors and temporary stairs. It looks like the tiles will come in just under the lip of the front door but good god it's going to be close so I'll be slightly on edge until that's done.
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Dec 17, 2017 22:17
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Tilers been tilin'    I been paintin'       I also scooted the network cables up out of the way of the tilers  What does the fox say? It says gently caress your g8 m8 
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Dec 18, 2017 20:48
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Looking real good
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Dec 19, 2017 15:31
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Tiling is finished  If you've been following this thread you've seen how many layers are involved in putting down a floor like this. We finished level with 1mm to spare.  I've been sick so no painting, and I'm up north from this weekend. Things will begin again in earnest next year. Have a good break everyone.
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Dec 20, 2017 14:30
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Goongrats on a floor!!!! Now you can get doors and stuff!!!
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Dec 20, 2017 23:35
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Jaded Burnout posted:We finished level with 1mm to spare. Show off. So sharp and satisfying the difference between the before and after grouting shots.
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Dec 21, 2017 07:59
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Things are a-brewin’. I gots me a shopping list.
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Dec 30, 2017 12:02
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Guys I built plumbed and wired a kitchen in 2 days I have hot food but I'm knackered have a good new year thinger update tomorrow probably!
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Dec 31, 2017 21:38
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I was sick of not having a kitchen and NYE in London has become a shitshow in recent years, so I spent my weekend building kitchen version 0.1.0.0. The initial plan:  It changed a bit as I went, as all plans do. Bought in some gear. Oven and sawhorses, plus a couple of trestles I'll be taking back to the shop. I was planning to use them to lift the worktop over the appliances but it does fine sitting on top of them as they're all the same height. I thought I might get away with 2 sawhorses per 3m worktop but I needed 3 per in the end, so I'll be buying another pair.  Plumbing shopping list, which reflects plans changing as I wrote it  Parts! I only had to go back to the supplier once to do a big exchange/refund/rebuy, if you don't count the one where I had to go back to get things I forgot.  Rough positioning of white goods  Time to cut out the hole for the sink. My jigsaw is in storage and I didn't want to buy a new one. When do you don't have the right tool, use two of the wrong tool instead.  The plumbing begins, starting out with the waste line. At some point I switched to working on the feed lines because I was waiting for an Amazon delivery of a soil stack adaptor.  The finished plumbing. It's a long way from perfect but this is all a temporary setup and will be gone in months. Just waiting on a replacement drain hose for the dryer because mine is also in storage or lost.    Wiring in the oven. I didn't get many shots of this process because I was getting tired and frustrated because the oven manual recommended *at least* 1.5sqmm cores in the cabling but when I bought something deliberately overspec (6sqmm) their fittings were too small to take it. This wall plate does, though, because it's intended for a much more powerful range cooker. The oven I bought now tops out around 9 amps. The range I'll be replacing it with can reach 64 amps.  The sparkies are not the most accurate bunch when it comes to cutting holes.  So there we go. I rounded out the year eating my first home cooked meal in 9 months.  I'll edit in the prices of everything later, but it was around £400 all in not including white goods. Today's goal is to finish painting the back room so it can store all the boxes coming out of storage tomorrow.
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Jan 1, 2018 11:04
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Do you think you'll ever be happier or more satisfied than cooking in that kitchen?
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Jan 2, 2018 00:24
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Cos, I mean, if not, there's like 10k saved.
NotJustANumber99 fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Jan 2, 2018 |
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Jan 2, 2018 00:25
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It's a reasonable question, but there's no way I'm sticking with this kitchen. It's main purpose is to highlight its deficiencies through use so I know what to put in a real kitchen and where, like drawers, and cupboards, and such. It's also ugly as sin. No, I'd be happy in this kitchen as much as I'd have been happy not renovating the place at all, that is to say liveable, workable, but not enjoyable beyond the contrast with having nothing at all.
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Jan 2, 2018 04:00
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When you do the permanent plumbing I'd really recommend shut-off valves for the water going to the sink/dishwasher/washing-machine - far better than turning off the whole house like I had to do recently to change a tap.
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Jan 2, 2018 13:34
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Baconroll posted:When you do the permanent plumbing I'd really recommend shut-off valves for the water going to the sink/dishwasher/washing-machine - far better than turning off the whole house like I had to do recently to change a tap. I'm not sure what the real plumber will use but those appliance tees have shut off valves in them, so it's only the taps that don't, but the whole lot is fed from the utility room and there's shut offs in there. It does mean I need to cut off the heating in order to cut off the kitchen but it's not so bad. That said, I am all about having as many shut-offs as possible. One of the problems in the old plumbing was that the valves were all so old that they didn't shut off poo poo even when fully closed.
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Jan 2, 2018 13:39
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Just read through the thread, such a great project and congratulations for your first meal. I am trying to complete on selling a flat in London (this has been going on for ages) and then plan to eventually build a house. Great to see some of the detail that goes in.
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Jan 2, 2018 16:36
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knox_harrington posted:I am trying to complete on selling a flat in London (this has been going on for ages) and then plan to eventually build a house. Great to see some of the detail that goes in. Having been through this I feel MUCH more capable to deal with building a house from scratch, in fact in many ways it's easier than a renovation of this magnitude. I hope that I'll be able to do the same as you for my next house, however many years from now that is, though I doubt I'll have "selling London property in 2017" money to throw around  I have some Canadian friends who were completely baffled at the faff that goes into buying or selling a house here. It took me a year to complete on this one as the top of the chain dropped out at the last minute.
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Jan 2, 2018 17:16
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If either of you are curious about the whole building your own place in the UK with our really fun planning laws my father did it in the mid nineties and was able to get through plans for the first house in Kent to be built with a basement in approximately 60 - 70 years so I can always ask him about it and post back. He did the second one too. From what I remember the only issues for his place was an argument about a central support beam for the first floor (He wanted steel, builder insisted on wood and went with wood, floor dropped by an inch and a half, should have gone with steel) and a particularly fun day where it rained heavily and the basement wasn't quite finished.
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Jan 2, 2018 21:25
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Oscar Romeo Romeo posted:If either of you are curious about the whole building your own place in the UK with our really fun planning laws my father did it in the mid nineties and was able to get through plans for the first house in Kent to be built with a basement in approximately 60 - 70 years so I can always ask him about it and post back. He did the second one too. That sounds like very useful information what with me being in Kent as well. Hopefully this dumb forum is still around in 5 or 10 years. I'm a little surprised to hear about the steel thing. Maybe things were different in the 90s? I'm surprised a structural engineer signed off on it.
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Jan 3, 2018 05:46
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What’s the technique for drilling into metal studs (through sheet rock), for the purposes of hanging a TV? I’ve heard toggle bolts through the stud or just sheet metal screws directly. Any ideas and how to do them?
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Jan 3, 2018 06:56
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PRADA SLUT posted:What’s the technique for drilling into metal studs (through sheet rock), for the purposes of hanging a TV? Not sure, as we don't really do metal studs in the UK. What shape is the stud? Does the main metal sheet back directly onto the plasterboard? If so I'd be inclined to drill right through and use plasterboard plugs as they're designed to take their support from gripping the material rather than via the thread. Something like this? https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-plasterboard-plugs-hdf-10-x-100-pack/58219 Don't trust your TV to my advice on this, though, I'll be hanging mine from brick.
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Jan 3, 2018 11:41
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PRADA SLUT posted:What’s the technique for drilling into metal studs (through sheet rock), for the purposes of hanging a TV? Cut a hole in the wall, span the studs with two 2x4s (one for upper screws and one for lower screws) or a single 2x10 or 2x12 if you have scrap around. If you're RIGHT on the stud a Toggler would never pull out, but if you're off-center and go through an edge it could be no bueno. Likewise, a Toggler through 1/2 drywall will actually generate large pull-out resistance, but I'd still be reticent to hang a television like that since every time you move the television to tilt it or whatever you could slowly crush the drywall from the inside and increase failure. It is so much safer to span the metal studs with wood and then mount with coarse exterior screws -- or Togglers, or almost-as-pullout-resistant but hugely-simpler-to-install rugged structural screws -- that there is pretty much no reason not to. Use an oscillating tool to cut the drywall cleanly for an easy repatch, or even don't repatch at all by cutting smaller than your mount and then you have easy in-wall access for cords.
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Jan 3, 2018 16:27
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It's a rental, no cutting the drywall, no spanning. Metal studs or bust. They look something like this. I just need to make sure I hit them off-center, which shouldn't be too hard. I think if I can get two toggles or metal screws in the stud I can hold the rest with toggles in the drywall. I'm assuming I just drill out a quarter inch hole and push a toggle through, if I go that route? Is it particularly difficult to drill? Also, what's the best way to fill the hole back up, just plug it with some spackle and call it good? I assume my building will re-paint the walls anyway, so as long as the walls don't look damaged I'm fine. PRADA SLUT fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Jan 3, 2018 |
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Jan 3, 2018 18:55
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PRADA SLUT posted:It's a rental, no cutting the drywall, no spanning. Metal studs or bust. They look something like this. I just need to make sure I hit them off-center, which shouldn't be too hard. I think if I can get two toggles or metal screws in the stud I can hold the rest with toggles in the drywall. Toggler Snaptoggles are nice not just because the bolt can be unscrewed without losing the toggle on the other side of the wall, but because the holes for normal toggle bolts must be larger than the bolt itself. So what ends up happening is that a heavy object pulls the bolt downward through the drywall. Either way you're drilling a 1/2" hole in the stud (not 1/4", that's the bolt size and the toggle is larger), which is 1-5/8" wide. I can't personally vouch for them, but a self-tapping anchor might be a lot easier. If I had one handy I'd pop one in an exposed stud and test for you, but I don't. =) Whatever route you go plugging the hole afterward will be easy. Edit: Just for you, I drove a GRK RSS into a steel stud and tried to pull it out without success. =) But obviously you don't want to hang your TV based on seat-of-the-pants engineering. tetrapyloctomy fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Jan 3, 2018 |
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Jan 3, 2018 19:40
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Do you use a drywall anchor when using a toggle bolt or drilling into a stud?
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Jan 3, 2018 23:48
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PRADA SLUT posted:Do you use a drywall anchor when using a toggle bolt or drilling into a stud? A drywall anchor is just a generic term for a way to hang poo poo on drywall; they can be plastic expanding things, plastic flappy things, plastic or metal screws with big threads through which you insert another screw, etc. Here's a decent overview: https://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/inffastener/infanchor/infanchor.html Looking more into it, were I doing this again and didn't want to put a wood cross-brace in, I might drop the money on that self-tapping anchor I linked to above. Their video makes it look like the threads that catch are pretty beefy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtXKdtiIYyw. Looks like 300 lb of pullout resistance. I like SnapToggles, but they're a couple of extra steps.
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Jan 4, 2018 02:32
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'll edit in the prices of everything later, but it was around £400 all in not including white goods. Kitchen plumbing £138.84 Kitchen counters, sink, tools, wiring etc £314.82 Oven £139.99 Subtotal £593.65 I got all my stuff out of storage (£240 out, £240 back, £800 during) and it just kept coming and coming how can any one person own so much stuff. Total spent so far £142,595.61
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Jan 4, 2018 21:31
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Goals for this weekend: 1. Build some wireframes for the utility room appliances and lay them out. 2. Pick out skirting and architraves. 3. Pick out colours for #2 and for the office. 4. Figure out how windowsills work. 5. Run the missing speaker cables in the cinema room. Anything else?
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Jan 5, 2018 21:57
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I guess I also need to figure out whether installing new soffits, fascias and guttering is something I can do myself or if I need to pay a guy.
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Jan 5, 2018 22:01
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I would leave anything involving the roof and/or scaffolding to professionals.
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Jan 5, 2018 23:53
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Jaded Burnout posted:Goals for this weekend: 0.5 put some franziskaner weissbier in your new fridge .. .. .. 6. drink the beer I didn't spot where the server room you mentioned is in the house, what's the plan with that?
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Jan 6, 2018 01:32
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Jaded Burnout posted:Anything else? Buying booze for the christening of the new gaff?
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Jan 6, 2018 02:27
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Jaded Burnout posted:I guess I also need to figure out whether installing new soffits, fascias and guttering is something I can do myself or if I need to pay a guy. I fixed the gutter on one side of my previous house with my dad's help when 3/4 of it ripped off due to the weight of ice build-up. I decided I'll just pay for gutter work next time.
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Jan 6, 2018 04:43
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peanut posted:I would leave anything involving the roof and/or scaffolding to professionals. tangy yet delightful posted:I fixed the gutter on one side of my previous house with my dad's help when 3/4 of it ripped off due to the weight of ice build-up. I decided I'll just pay for gutter work next time. The only reason I'm even considering it is that my house has very simple guttering with no corners and there'll be some scaffolding up for the rendering already, but yeah I should probably just get a quote. I did try before and couldn't get anyone to actually bother quoting me. NotJustANumber99 posted:Buying booze for the christening of the new gaff? knox_harrington posted:0.5 put some franziskaner weissbier in your new fridge Way ahead of you.  Though I don't actually drink beer, this was part of my attempt to acclimatise to it. knox_harrington posted:I didn't spot where the server room you mentioned is in the house, what's the plan with that? I've got a 600x600 cabinet going in the utility room. Exact position TBD but that's what the wireframing is for. Originally I was going to put it under the stairs but I changed my mine due to not wanting a cupboard there, then was going to put it in the attic for ease of drops but actually the routes don't work well, so the utility room is it. All the cables are there now so I'm just waiting on that room being finished. Photos! Stuff out of storage. So much stuff.   Builder finished sealing the front extension roof, so we had to move the BT master socket again. I'm at a point in my life where having to trim, strip, and punch down a phone socket (again) means "walk to a cardboard box in the kitchen" rather than panic and call an engineer.   Boxing in on the electrical cabinet is in progress. I'll need to get the sparkies to add a double socket so I can put the modem in here. Bay window walls boarded and taped ready for plaster.   I guess this is what happens when you don't clean up your resin bucket 
Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 12:20 on Jan 6, 2018 |
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Jan 6, 2018 12:18
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Jaded Burnout posted:I've got a 600x600 cabinet going in the utility room. Exact position TBD but that's what the wireframing is for. Originally I was going to put it under the stairs but I changed my mine due to not wanting a cupboard there, then was going to put it in the attic for ease of drops but actually the routes don't work well, so the utility room is it. All the cables are there now so I'm just waiting on that room being finished. quote:Boxing in on the electrical cabinet is in progress. I'll need to get the sparkies to add a double socket so I can put the modem in here. Why are you not patching the BT socket through to your cab so that you can put your modem/router in there where I assume there will also be a switch and a UPS, and then if you want a landline phone you can also just patch it back out of any location.
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Jan 6, 2018 14:17
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Tomarse posted:speaking as someone who had a server in the attic for a while, it is a poo poo location for Servers. Its horrible carrying any server kit up there and it gets hot as gently caress in the summer (even in northern England) Yeah that was one of the conclusions I came to. It's also quite.. compact up there. It does now mean I have a double-gang socket I'm not using. Tomarse posted:Why are you not patching the BT socket through to your cab so that you can put your modem/router in there where I assume there will also be a switch and a UPS, and then if you want a landline phone you can also just patch it back out of any location. I could. I've run two ethernet lines into the electrical cabinet so I can either put the router in there and run back filtered phone and WAN, or patch directly into the socket. Depends what's most effective. I'm not sure exactly what's going on a UPS yet, if anything. And it can all be changed later if needed, though it'll be weeks before I get even that far. I'll likely be punting for advice come that time.
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Jan 6, 2018 14:23
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Jaded Burnout posted:Yeah that was one of the conclusions I came to. It's also quite.. compact up there. It does now mean I have a double-gang socket I'm not using. An attic socket is always useful! It only needs to be a small UPS to keep a router/switch/wireless up. Definitely worth it. While the power shouldn't drop much, when it does its usually incredibly inconvenient especially if you work from home a lot.
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Jan 6, 2018 14:33
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Turns out it's much easier to staple wood together rather than nail it if it doesn't have to support anything other than its own weight.
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Jan 6, 2018 21:49
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Got the wireframing done. Option 1: Comms cab facing forward, in line with heating cupboard on left and washing machine below.  Option 2: Cabinet recessed into heating cupboard (exhaust inwards), front facing right.  Option 3: Cabinet facing forward, in line with dryer.  Sink in the middle, doorway behind me, and to the right. Thoughts?
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Jan 7, 2018 13:24
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What is a heating cupboard? It might just be the angle, but above the dryer looks tidy and accessible. Are those grey cables for internet?
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Jan 7, 2018 13:59
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