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I eats my spinach posted:So we've had a 2006 Cobalt since I bought it new to use as a commuter car and its served admirably up to this point, with no major issues over 11 years and 230,000 miles. Unfortunately the one of the original brake lines rusted out in a hard to notice spot and we lost the front brakes on a hard stop, resulting in a fender bender which didn't do anything to the tow hitch and bumper of the old F150 in front of us but smoked our hood, both headlights, the plastic/foam/metal bumper, AC condenser, radiator, fan, and most importantly one of the metal bumper to frame mounts and radiator support. As someone that owns the Saturn version of your car (2006 Ion), with close to the same mileage (and goddamnit, it is expensive to insure for what it is).. If you can fix it yourself or your body shop friends will do work really cheap, and it's not smoking or pissing oil everywhere yet, I'd probably fix it. My Ionry has been surprisingly solid, and only recently started leaking oil (have 194k now), and also recently started getting some timing chain slap at startup (I need to get off my rear end and replace the tensioner, I'm hoping that takes care of it). The engine is pretty trouble free aside from the timing chain tensioner (which has been revised several times), the automatic is a boring (but cheap to replace) 4T45E, manual is a pretty durable Getrag F23. Personally, I probably wouldn't care about the body panels matching perfectly, so long as everything lines up decently and the headlights can be aimed properly. It's a paid off commuter car. If you do put it back on the road, when you go to install the AC condenser, DON'T PULL THE PLUGS/CAPS OFF OF IT UNTIL YOU'RE READY TO PULL A VACUUM. The condenser has the receiver/dryer built in, and you need to hook the lines up immediately and vacuum it down once you've pulled the plugs. Mine's been pretty reliable (2nd owner, got it with 60k), no major issues aside from the fuel pump lines cracking (covered under an enhanced warranty) and the ac crapping out last year. tl;dr I'd fix it if the rest of the car is still in good shape.
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Jan 5, 2018 08:29
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| # ? May 29, 2024 19:25 |
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There's nothing better than a car with no payments. Seconding "fix it"
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Jan 5, 2018 13:28
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Hey guys, we recently got a ton of snow here, and now my 2005 Toyota 4Runner 4.7 shakes like crazy at highway speeds. What is more likely, the snow packed in my wheels is wrecking the balance or my suspension is tweaked by gunning it through the plowed up snow here at the bottom of the driveway?
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Jan 5, 2018 15:32
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DogonCrook posted:Thanks. Yeah the controls move metal arms that slide accross a trace. Its uncovered and under the ash tray so god knows whats fell on it over 40 years. Ill check that out. Also what car is this? I reread your last post and I've never heard of a fuel tank being mounted by the windshield.
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Jan 5, 2018 17:13
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Duckboat posted:Hey guys, we recently got a ton of snow here, and now my 2005 Toyota 4Runner 4.7 shakes like crazy at highway speeds. What is more likely, the snow packed in my wheels is wrecking the balance or my suspension is tweaked by gunning it through the plowed up snow here at the bottom of the driveway?
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Jan 5, 2018 17:22
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Thanks, what I figured. It does go away at low speeds. I feel weirdness when I turn, but A. There is a lot of snow in my wheel wells and B. My skid plate is probably loose, since I can hear it shaking like crazy the last couple days. I figure that explains everything, but I'll try to get it into a shop soon ish.
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Jan 5, 2018 18:06
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:As someone that owns the Saturn version of your car (2006 Ion), with close to the same mileage (and goddamnit, it is expensive to insure for what it is).. Umm whoops. So lets say someone did pull the vac caps to measure and fit lines and then capped it again for i dunno a month what would the damage be? Lol
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Jan 5, 2018 18:53
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Enourmo posted:Also what car is this? I reread your last post and I've never heard of a fuel tank being mounted by the windshield. A 914. Its hilarious the looks i get filling it up because its old enough now a lot of people have never seen one and the tank is in the frunk there isnt an access hatch.
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Jan 5, 2018 18:59
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DogonCrook posted:Umm whoops. So lets say someone did pull the vac caps to measure and fit lines and then capped it again for i dunno a month what would the damage be? Lol The dessicant absorbs excess moisture left over after the vac/fill. Any moisture in the system will negatively affect the A/C operation, as well as potentially accelerating corrosion and loving with the compressor oil. Wait, do you mean the caps over the openings on the new piece, or the screw caps over the fittings on the system? The dessicant in your system has already been used up, so opening the system won't do any damage that wasn't already done by the accident. What Yu-gi-ho was saying was to remove the seals on the new part until you're ready to connect the lines, at which point you should immediately vacuum and fill with refrigerant.
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Jan 6, 2018 01:50
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Enourmo posted:Get some penetrating oil like PB blaster and soak the lock with it, let it sit for a while. Okay, figured out my problems. 1) Key was cut wrong by dealership I got it from. No idea how they hosed it up on a new car, but they did. 2) Keyfob battery died. Even though the little red dot lit up on the fob as I hit unlock, it wasn't enough juice. At the shop the battery was sitting around 2.5 mA. Got both my fobs' batteries replaced, and the car worked like magic. Haven't gotten key recut cause, welp, I'd never needed it up until now anyway right?
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Jan 6, 2018 02:13
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Ace Hardware will cut an automotive key for about $1, even if you bring it in yourself. Lowes will not cut outside keys under Hillman's orders.
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Jan 6, 2018 02:29
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Its a new system. Its custom so i had to uncap everything and make lines for it and i didnt really think about it and i uncapped everything to rig it up and recapped as id finish the section. I remember the compressor and condenser sucking in air. I mean its kind of a cheap system so its not the end of the world im just wondering if i can mitigate it before i install all the completed lines and fill it. I was just gonna have it flushed. E: im retarded that was supposed to be a reply.
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Jan 6, 2018 02:35
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DogonCrook posted:Its a new system. Its custom so i had to uncap everything and make lines for it and i didnt really think about it and i uncapped everything to rig it up and recapped as id finish the section. I remember the compressor and condenser sucking in air. I mean its kind of a cheap system so its not the end of the world im just wondering if i can mitigate it before i install all the completed lines and fill it. I was just gonna have it flushed. No worries, the only thing you'll need to do is replace whatever the dessicant pack is in. If YGH is right and it's built into the condenser, then that means new condenser; otherwise it's in your receiver/drier or accumulator, whichever your system has.
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Jan 6, 2018 02:50
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Enourmo posted:No worries, the only thing you'll need to do is replace whatever the dessicant pack is in. If YGH is right and it's built into the condenser, then that means new condenser; otherwise it's in your receiver/drier or accumulator, whichever your system has. Ok that makes sense, and yeah mine is in the drier.
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Jan 6, 2018 03:07
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I have one tire which is losing pressure fairly fast. I'd lose maybe 15PSI over the course of 3 weeks. I had a look at the tire itself and I can't seem to identify any sort of nail puncture. Any idea how much les swab would charge for fixing something like that? Assuming I don't have to replace the tire completely. Not sure if this would qualify under a "free flat tire."
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Jan 6, 2018 06:13
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Assuming they find the leak and it's not on or too close to the sidewall it's usually like $15-20 for a flat repair.
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Jan 6, 2018 07:45
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Enourmo posted:No worries, the only thing you'll need to do is replace whatever the dessicant pack is in. If YGH is right and it's built into the condenser, then that means new condenser; otherwise it's in your receiver/drier or accumulator, whichever your system has. Can confirm the dessicant pack is part of the condenser on all US market Delta platform cars. fake edit: okay looks like two different people replied to my Cobalt wreck reply. I have no idea what car Dogon is working on, I was replying to I eats my spinach originally. Since Dogon mentioned 40 year old car, it's almost guaranteed to have a separate receiver/drier. So long as that's still capped, it's fine. If spinach did uncap the new condenser, then yeah, new condenser if it wasn't hooked up and vacuumed immediately, but that's only a ~$50-75 mistake on a Cobalt.
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Jan 6, 2018 08:44
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Is there a site that lists the numbers of each car that are still on the road? Particularly interested in the UK and europe.
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Jan 6, 2018 11:43
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Update to my windshield wiper problem. Changed the motor a few weeks ago. Everything is normal and its been way colder than it was when it was happening. Something weird, but not really a problem perse. More just something interesting. Its cold as gently caress, when I start my car, I shove the clutch in a few times, throw the poo poo in neutral and starts car. When I let clutch out, the car wants to lurch forward a little bit. Only happens when its freezing as gently caress out (gear oil a lot thicker obv.). Yesterday, I was sitting at a light not too long after leaving my place. The lane I was in had a bit of an incline, and with the clutch out and car in neutral, the car was sitting in place, but when I put the clutch in, the car started to roll back slightly, let off the pedal and the car would stop moving. I think I get the idea of why its happening, cold, really thick gear oil, and the internals are sort of getting turned in the right direction (via thick rear end oil) to hold the car in place, or move it forward. Anyone else have this happen to them? Is there some sort of "scientific" type explanation for this? Aside from thick oil = ........Uhhhh Something?
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Jan 6, 2018 18:50
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Can confirm the dessicant pack is part of the condenser on all US market Delta platform cars. Yeah sorry for the confusion i didnt know that modern cars put the drier in the condensor and that you were referring to that.
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Jan 6, 2018 20:04
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Is it time to start worrying about selling high on my 2008 Pontiac G5 with 83k miles? I’ve had my 2008 Pontiac G5 with 83k miles for the last 7 years. Taken it on road trips, commuting to work, it’s been my work horse. Got it with 25k miles on it originally. I was planning on probably just running the brakes off of it as I just got back in college and have 3 years till graduation (30 years old). But, I have the opportunity of my girlfriend buying my car (I don’t know how much I’d sell it for...$4k?), so I’m thinking...I’d totally throw an extra $1500 or so on top of that and buy something nicer with more life expectancy. Her 2002 Pathfinder with 230k Miles prob doesn’t have a lot to go on it. I’m kind of figuring from a value standpoint, a Prius would be an excellent value choice in the future. Love the idea of 45-50 MPG and more trunk room. Would I be better off to hold or sell? Important notes on my G5: + 83,000 Miles + Well kept up with and maintained. New tires, too. + Installed the really bright almost LED headlights that’ll probably outlast the life of the car - Front Passenger turn signal is out, replacement bulb doesn’t fix it - the paint scrap/crack on the back bumper from bumper thumper, nothing bad. Not noticeable unless up close. - the power locks are out, just manual - There is a click click click on the inside of the car from the right dashboard may have been the vents snapping after it got too cold 😬
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Jan 6, 2018 22:15
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So wife and MIL went out last night and I stopped out the driveway after they left, finding a 3-inch wet spot and a couple smaller ones. The large spot kind of shimmered rainbow in the driveway light, the smaller ones did not; it was also situated roughly around where her oil tank seems to be. Small puddles were gone 2 hours later, larger still there. Is that an oil leak or am I  ?
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Jan 6, 2018 23:07
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Something's wrong with this Z right? 11k seems cheap as hell if it's in as good a shape as implied. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/d/1977-datsun-280z/6441082301.html
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Jan 6, 2018 23:42
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He never once uses the R word. Be suspicious.
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Jan 6, 2018 23:59
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D34THROW posted:So wife and MIL went out last night and I stopped out the driveway after they left, finding a 3-inch wet spot and a couple smaller ones. The large spot kind of shimmered rainbow in the driveway light, the smaller ones did not; it was also situated roughly around where her oil tank seems to be. It's normal to drip water if the A/C was in use (including defrost), and there could have been residual oil on the ground already that would cause a slight shimmer. If it's not water, used oil is honey gold to black, depending on how used it is, coolant is green or orange, trans fluid is red. What's it smell like?
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Jan 7, 2018 00:02
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Ah right, so the assumption should be that half the floor is rusted through and it's just hidden by the pics and carpet. But as a gut check, if there somehow isn't significant rust issue, (and the frame isn't disfigured or something) that's a screaming deal for one of these yeah? I'm not about to run out and throw money at this but I'm trying to get a feel for what they go for. Because I want to debase one with an electric motor some time in the next few years and I don't want to build one up from a stripped shell.
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Jan 7, 2018 00:09
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Raluek posted:It's normal to drip water if the A/C was in use (including defrost), and there could have been residual oil on the ground already that would cause a slight shimmer. It wasn't in use - vehicle was totally off and the puddle is still there. It smells like nothing I've ever really smelled before. Metallic, I guess? Not sweet. Hopefully it was residual, though her oil level has dropped by a good 1/4 of the dipstick crosshatching in 2 weeks since I last checked.
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Jan 7, 2018 01:00
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D34THROW posted:It wasn't in use - vehicle was totally off and the puddle is still there. It smells like nothing I've ever really smelled before. Metallic, I guess? Not sweet. Hopefully it was residual, though her oil level has dropped by a good 1/4 of the dipstick crosshatching in 2 weeks since I last checked. If it doesn't smell sweet like coolant or that weird strong ATF smell, yeah it's probably oil then. If it gets regularly topped off, I suppose it could be pretty clean and clear still. Still, usually the rainbow shimmer is from a thin layer of oil floating on water. I guess that could just be from wet ground, since that's a pretty small puddle. Maybe put a piece of cardboard down when they get back, see what it catches?
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Jan 7, 2018 01:58
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DogonCrook posted:Yeah sorry for the confusion i didnt know that modern cars put the drier in the condensor and that you were referring to that. It's not a modern car thing, it's (as far as I know) a Cobalt/Ion thing specifically. At least most cars I know of up to 2010s don't have it there.
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Jan 7, 2018 02:52
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I have a 2006 Mini Cooper S automatic that seems to be having some transmission issues. Frequent thuds when shifting gears, particularly lower ones when I first start from a stop, RPM spikes. Had a particularly bad one a few days ago where the it spiked up over 6000 nearly to the red line yet the car was chugging to get over 20 for a few seconds, I thought the car would die in the middle of the road before it stabilized again and it scared me into thinking about selling it. But I just got lowballed like hell by Carmax, it's apparently bad enough the guy doing appraisal thought the transmission was on it's way out and seemed to base the offer around that.  When I bought the car pre-sale car work was done on it at a german auto shop according to the Carfax report, including a transmission filter change. Minis of this generation usually had a sealed Aisin transmission, I assume when the transmission filter change was done they would also change the transmission fluid, since I kind of associate oil filter change with an oil change. Are transmission filters ever changed but NOT the transmission fluid at the same time? If not does this sound like a problem a transmission fluid change would probably solve since the fluid in there is then probably old as hell? Or does it sound like the tranny is beyond that helping it and I should really possibly commit to selling it before it becomes a money pit?
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Jan 7, 2018 05:43
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Ragnarok the Red posted:Are transmission filters ever changed but NOT the transmission fluid at the same time? Most automatic transmissions use a panel filter that is only accessible with the pan dropped, which would also result in a quarter to a third of all fluid being drained. A reputable shop would either use a machine that flushes the transmission with pressurized fluid or else draw in fresh and discharge old fluid through the transmission cooling lines. If the work was DIY there's a good possibility the previous owner only drained a fraction of the overall fluid capacity, as most modern automatics retain a majority of the fluid inside the transmission even when unpowered. Also consider how much time/mileage has passed since the last change - depending on the manufacturer some transmissions are more sensitive than others to old fluid. It's possible you're just due for a fluid & filter change.
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Jan 7, 2018 06:15
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DogonCrook posted:Yeah sorry for the confusion i didnt know that modern cars put the drier in the condensor and that you were referring to that. Not all do, and of the ones that do, some of them have a removable/replaceable desiccant pack. The Cobalt/Ion/G5 is not one of those, and the condenser comes out from the bottom on them to make it more fun.  Enourmo posted:It's not a modern car thing, it's (as far as I know) a Cobalt/Ion thing specifically. At least most cars I know of up to 2010s don't have it there. Toyota would like to have a word with you about that. (2nd gen Avalon for sure, but you can order the desiccant pack on its own.. or could, at one point)
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Jan 7, 2018 08:52
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How realistic is it to replace wheel bearings on a FWD hatchback with a slide hammer? Doesn't look hard on youtube but on an old car I doubt they are as willing to come off. Passenger side front and rear so it didn't have the decency to be the same end of the car.
Carecat fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Jan 7, 2018 |
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Jan 7, 2018 15:00
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Really depends on the car. Most FWD cars, if you're removing the front bearing, they're usually press-fit - so removal with a slide hammer is generally the easiest way if you don't want to re-use the bearing (it often comes apart during removal) or remove the knuckle. I know Harbor Freight sells a kit to install new FWD wheel bearings using an impact driver, no idea what it costs or what they call it (I've seen it used, that's about all I can say).
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Jan 7, 2018 15:15
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I've had reasonable success doing front wheel bearings on a couple different FWD cars with stuff like this:
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Jan 7, 2018 16:02
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That's essentially the Harbor Freight kit with a couple of extra pieces.
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Jan 7, 2018 16:51
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Ragnarok the Red posted:I have a 2006 Mini Cooper S automatic that seems to be having some transmission issues. It may be beyond repair, but check the transmission fluid level before you write it off. If its not a dipstick consider paying a shop to do it.
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Jan 7, 2018 18:28
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89 posted:Is it time to start worrying about selling high on my 2008 Pontiac G5 with 83k miles? Imo yes get rid of a pontiac with electrical issues and get a toyota or honda to get you through college. On maintenenace alone you would come out ahead. Its sounds like you take good care so getting a honda to hold value for you should be no sweat.
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Jan 7, 2018 19:52
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IMO the best car is the one you have maintained so you know it's good. A car that has a couple of dings so you don't stress over it. Fix the electrical issues then drive it until the engine dies then stick a honda motor in it. I've seen so many burnt by buying a cheap camry and it being the rare POS, or honda and their trans. The previous owners of those cars probably haven't done half the maintenance on them that you have on yours - they are usually selling them because of problems! Fo3 fucked around with this message at 10:47 on Jan 8, 2018 |
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Jan 8, 2018 10:44
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| # ? May 29, 2024 19:25 |
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Whats a good dump in the tank combustion chamber cleaner? Friend's mom, thinks her car is starting to run kinda lovely (don't know the exact details) and has been putting higher octane gas in her tank to help compensate.
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Jan 8, 2018 12:27
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