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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:So I'm using the Liquitex Matte varnish through my airbrush, and while it does a great job the effect is really matte. Has anyone had any success making a satin varnish? I want the armor of my guys to look shiny, but I'm worried a straight gloss might be too much. 
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Jan 8, 2018 05:48
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If you're worried about your metallics, do your highlights after you varnish
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Jan 8, 2018 05:58
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:So I'm using the Liquitex Matte varnish through my airbrush, and while it does a great job the effect is really matte. Has anyone had any success making a satin varnish? I want the armor of my guys to look shiny, but I'm worried a straight gloss might be too much. Liquitex sells a satin varnish. Though It is slightly too shiny for my tastes. It is a good effect for power armor, but not for other things. Felime fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Jan 8, 2018 |
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Jan 8, 2018 06:07
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:So I'm using the Liquitex Matte varnish through my airbrush, and while it does a great job the effect is really matte. Has anyone had any success making a satin varnish? I want the armor of my guys to look shiny, but I'm worried a straight gloss might be too much. https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Satin-Varnish-8-oz/dp/B001US6NPM ?
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Jan 8, 2018 06:09
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Swapping to a dark background seems to have helped a bit. Still not perfect, but probably about as good as I'm going to get for the moment. Gloomhaven Minis (starter classes): I've gotten through 3 so far. The sculpts aren't quite as crisp as, say, GW stuff, so some of the detail gets a little muddled. I deviated slightly from some of the character artwork because they were just a slight bit drab, but I feel like I've maintained the essence of each one. Cragheart:   Brute:   Scoundrel (this one looks better in person, the eyes are crisper and bit more subdued with a little bit of OSL):  
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Jan 8, 2018 06:18
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Well I feel dumb. Thanks everyone.
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Jan 8, 2018 06:21
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I've started on some Shining Spears and wanted to get thoughts on the scheme. The back of the bike is nearly done - it needs to be touched up on all sections (black, then each color) and the gems need to be dotted. The canopy I'll do after I varnish the back half so that I can hold it without stripping it. It's hard to see but blues and greys are blended from bright to dark from the right to the left. The canopy will have some kind looping line design that interlaces in the center. White, with blue design, and a blue raised-plate.   
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Jan 8, 2018 06:29
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Boon posted:I've started on some Shining Spears and wanted to get thoughts on the scheme. The back of the bike is nearly done - it needs to be touched up on all sections (black, then each color) and the gems need to be dotted. The canopy I'll do after I varnish the back half so that I can hold it without stripping it. It's hard to see but blues and greys are blended from bright to dark from the right to the left. I almost feel like the helmet should be white.
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Jan 8, 2018 07:30
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:So I'm using the Liquitex Matte varnish through my airbrush, and while it does a great job the effect is really matte. Has anyone had any success making a satin varnish? I want the armor of my guys to look shiny, but I'm worried a straight gloss might be too much. I mix it with Pledge floor finish (used to be "future floor finish") to good effect. I use the floor finish as my gloss layer. Then a 50/50 with Liquitex matte.
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Jan 8, 2018 08:33
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Well I feel dumb. Thanks everyone. It's okay. None of us started off knowing this stuff. We came across it by reading guides, getting advice at the FLGS, or seeing someone post about it here.
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Jan 8, 2018 08:41
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:In the hopes of staying motivated I put together a Keep Painting thread. It's meant to be a low-key place where people can post daily updates and help keep each other motivated. It's not meant to be specific to any particular game system, just a place where people can post more granular updates than what might be appreciated in other threads. This is a fantastic idea. Thanks for setting it up! (Hopefully it'll help me stay motivated....)
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Jan 8, 2018 09:26
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Nearly done with him: This model was originally painted with Kantor blue armor and a green coat, but the result looked poo poo so I stripped and re-painted it. The one thing I still don't know how to do is power swords, so I kept it simple with a metallic paint and a glaze. That's my next learning project I think, I'll buy some bits and paint a batch of swords until I'm decent at them.
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Jan 8, 2018 10:42
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So I'm planning on converting a Gulliman into a Daemon Prince. My current project is a bunch of new Death Guard painted up as Alpha Legion disguised as Ultramarines - so Gulliman seems like the perfect capstone for the army. Does anyone have any tips on bits to convert him with, or general things to know going into that? Are his shoulderpads the same size as terminators? My plan is to use a spare Death Guard terminator head and that insanely sick melted glue skin cloak, but are there any other compatible bits or things I can do to twist the model a bit? I'll be diving through my bits box but if anyone has any tips or suggestions please let me know!
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Jan 8, 2018 11:05
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Thanqol posted:My plan is to use a spare Death Guard terminator head and that insanely sick melted glue skin cloak, but are there any other compatible bits or things I can do to twist the model a bit? I'll be diving through my bits box but if anyone has any tips or suggestions please let me know!  Guilliman is quite big so I don’t think terminator shoulders will work, may want to look at brass etch or transfers if it’s the iconography you’re after. Check out the AoS blightking models on those big nurgle monsters, not Glottkin but the smaller ones, might have some useful bits in there.
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Jan 8, 2018 14:08
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Anybody email Badger, get the initial response, and then never get the purchase instructions? I get they're backed up from a huge spike in demand, but I'm also impatient and brain-dead.
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Jan 8, 2018 16:34
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Floppychop posted:I mix it with Pledge floor finish (used to be "future floor finish") to good effect. I have some of that, worth a shot. You ever try putting it through an airbrush?
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Jan 8, 2018 17:19
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I have some of that, worth a shot. You ever try putting it through an airbrush? That's my main way of applying it . Just make sure you clean the airbrush really well after. It can be tough to get off after it cures.
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Jan 8, 2018 17:30
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Thanqol posted:I almost feel like the helmet should be white. I had one of those reactions where I looked and knew immediately that you are right. I'm going to finish the canopy (which will mostly be grey) to see if it becomes took much with the helmet inverted. Ill post him again then to see if the blue works or if it should still be inverted.
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Jan 8, 2018 17:39
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grassy gnoll posted:Anybody email Badger, get the initial response, and then never get the purchase instructions? I get they're backed up from a huge spike in demand, but I'm also impatient and brain-dead. They're still working through them. They said maybe a week, but they hope to be done in the next few days unless they hang themselves first.
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Jan 8, 2018 18:55
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grassy gnoll posted:Anybody email Badger, get the initial response, and then never get the purchase instructions? I get they're backed up from a huge spike in demand, but I'm also impatient and brain-dead. For what it's worth, I emailed them the 4th and just got a reply yesterday (the 7th). Seems like the dude is manually replying to each email.
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Jan 8, 2018 19:09
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The badger guys seem like cool people, but man they are bad as this whole internet thing.
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Jan 8, 2018 19:20
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I have an image of some dude in a kilt banging out 7000 air brushes over an anvil for eternity.
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Jan 8, 2018 20:10
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I picture a group of genial grandpas who hand-machine every component, and who need their grandchildren to constantly reinstall their copies of Windows 95.
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Jan 8, 2018 21:27
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Has anyone had an experience where airbrushed varnish would cloud up the model? For whatever reason the matte coated models I did last year are really dull compared to the ones I am doing right now.
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Jan 8, 2018 23:17
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If whatever layer prior isn't fully dried, or any excessive moisture. e: could also have sprayed further away and it was drying mid-air. ijyt fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Jan 8, 2018 |
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Jan 8, 2018 23:36
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grassy gnoll posted:Anybody email Badger, get the initial response, and then never get the purchase instructions? I get they're backed up from a huge spike in demand, but I'm also impatient and brain-dead. I'm in the same boat, all counts.
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Jan 8, 2018 23:58
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ijyt posted:If whatever layer prior isn't fully dried, or any excessive moisture. Any way to fix it? I tried applying a new coat and it doesn't change anything. I'm airbrushing the Liquitex matte medium. EDIT: Looks like I'm hosed. Apparently the Liquitex medium isn't like the Testors Dullcote where you can add another layer to remove any haze. Beer4TheBeerGod fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Jan 9, 2018 |
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Jan 9, 2018 00:35
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Any way to fix it? I tried applying a new coat and it doesn't change anything. I'm airbrushing the Liquitex matte medium. Yeah, matte medium is a little different to matte varnish - try a coat of gloss first and see if that helps the hazing.
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Jan 9, 2018 01:00
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ijyt posted:Yeah, matte medium is a little different to matte varnish - try a coat of gloss first and see if that helps the hazing. Sorry, I meant matte varnish. Applying a layer of gloss varnish didn't help, but applying a thin layer of gloss lacquer did. So I figure I can apply the laquer, and then paint on the matte varnish and get the desired effect. Anyone have a better clearcoat for airbrushing?
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Jan 9, 2018 01:53
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Don't clearcoat, it's not really necessary when you don't have metal models anymore.
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Jan 9, 2018 02:54
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Don't clearcoat, it's not really necessary when you don't have metal models anymore. Wait, so you shouldn't varnish even if the mini is gonna be handled a bunch?
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Jan 9, 2018 03:01
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I never have and don't notice chipping.
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Jan 9, 2018 03:06
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Don't clearcoat, it's not really necessary when you don't have metal models anymore. I don't know that its necessary for chipping any more, but I still do to unify sheen across different paint brands, or knock down gloss after applying decals. Usually just hit stuff with a light spray of dullcote.
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Jan 9, 2018 03:09
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I've still noticed a degree of paint wear after handling; not nearly as bad as chipping though however, i'm starting to wonder if I should just leave things unvarnished, because matte wrecks metallics, non-matte makes everything look like it's been glazed in a thin coat of semen, and neither are really ideal.
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Jan 9, 2018 04:01
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for plastic infantry, clearcoat isn't really needed imo, but for tanks, I still would suggest gloss varnishing the poo poo out of it before the final finish. way more rubbing and knocking corners against stuff for them.
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Jan 9, 2018 05:12
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I guess for plastic and resin models it wouldn't matter as much. But what about pewter?
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Jan 9, 2018 05:14
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Probably the ideal (as mentioned previously) is gloss+matte and then redo some of your metallic highlights over that. Then the worst case scenario is that your metals may look duller after a lot of wear. And if you keep recipes, you can just touch up your minis once in a while. e: In theory, you could mix metallic medium with matte varnish and (air)brush it on over your metals? I’ve never tried this though and it may fail spectacularly. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Jan 9, 2018 |
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Jan 9, 2018 06:02
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Clear coat/varnish is a must on metals, they chip easily. It's only necessary on plastics if you're using transfers.
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Jan 9, 2018 06:02
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Avenging Dentist posted:Probably the ideal (as mentioned previously) is gloss+matte and then redo some on your metallic highlights over that. Then the worst case scenario is that your metals may look fuller after a lot of wear. And if you keep recipes, you can just touch up your minis once in a while. That's the way to do it. I use a lot of layers in my painting and I learned quick that you wan't to gloss varnish before you do your washes and matte varnish before your highlights.
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Jan 9, 2018 06:16
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It's also not a terrible idea to lay down a layer of varnish before doing freehand, I've found. If you make a mistake, it makes it a lot easier to scrub it off and fix it.
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Jan 9, 2018 06:41
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