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El Jebus
Jun 18, 2008

This avatar is paid for by "Avatars for improving Lowtax's spine by any means that doesn't result in him becoming brain dead by putting his brain into a cyborg body and/or putting him in a exosuit due to fears of the suit being hacked and crushing him during a cyberpunk future timeline" Foundation

thebigcow posted:

Just curious, but what does it come with for changing tires on the side of the road? My dad's Dodge 2500 had a bottle jack with a u shaped top to rest under the axle.

Cannibalized for his old trailer that he now pulls with a Tacoma (and he sold the old trailer and either the jack is with it or somewhere in his garage or shop which is roughly 1000 miles to the north).

He said he would pay for the jack if I payed for the brake job. I thought it was a good deal.

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StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I thought the only way to get files was for them to magically appear in your toolbox. I think both of mine were given to me randomly from old people. Only one handle betwixt the two.

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.
I got mine by biking furiously to the auto parts store before the rain started so I could finish working on my car so I could go to work the next morning. They were the only option at the store. I recommend those!

rdb
Jul 8, 2002
chicken mctesticles?

WashinMyGoat posted:

Can’t make a recommendation specifically, but I can say to look for something made in India or Portugal instead of China, even if the Chinese is a name brand. I’m pretty sure Nicholson is all made in Portugal now. Pferd, Warrensville, Bahco and Nicholson all have name recognition, but something from Mercer or Tomé Feteira are would have as good an offering at a lower cost.

This is the truth. I have been filing a lot of chainsaw chain lately, the stihl branded files (i suspect made by pferd) and the oregon files (made in Portugal) last 10 times longer than the cheapo chinese ones. They don’t bend either.

bolind
Jun 19, 2005



Pillbug
Come see me. The house we just got had a load of old junk left there. The workshop was mostly stripped, apart from a pretty nifty pair of vintage knipex pincers and, no joke, three dozen files.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

InitialDave posted:

Not exactly, but ask people to recommend good handles, too.

So how about dem handles too.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Watching a recent AvE and found out that Porter Cable is now a zombie brand. :(

One of my favorite tools is my PC random orbit polisher. I've used it since the mid '90s and it's showing wear (needs another new plate and a new cable), but is still a badass piece of equipment even after hundreds of hours of use. Sad that's gone now.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
That's sadly nothing new. PC died years ago when it became the featured brand at Lowes before the Kobalt line of power tools after the Stanley/B+D acquisition. Several lines of of the products remained mostly unchanged on the outside until recently. Sanders, polishers, plunge routers, and skill saws were still the familiar tools I remember growing up with in my grandfathers workshop. I think I bought one of the last USA made 7424 polishers 6 years ago. What a shame. I would gladly buy a PC over a Dewalt any day of the week a few years back. Now DW appears to be the best offering from the group.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
The only major prosumer tool brand left that makes a really consistently good product imo is Makita. Milwaukee cuts corners here and there and do does DeWalt.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Wrar posted:

The only major prosumer tool brand left that makes a really consistently good product imo is Makita. Milwaukee cuts corners here and there and do does DeWalt.

I'd say Milwaukee is nearly as good. The corners cut are pretty minimal, and even Makita makes some chintzy stuff. The LXT vacuum I got from them is pretty wimpy in both power and construction, and their homeowner yard tools aren't spectacular. The grass shears that AVE reviewed are a good example of that; cheap plastics that are likely to crack with any abuse, and some questionable choices internally.

Milwaukee cheaps out on big drill chucks to be sure, which is a downer, but I'm a fan of the one on my M12 drill. They've been leading the field in the high power batteries, too. 9.0Ah is nothing to sneeze at. If I was starting from scratch, I'd be on the fence about Makita or Milwaukee. I really like the M12 system, and it'd be nice to have a bunch of dual-voltage chargers rather than separate ones.

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
milwaukee is great because of the sheer variety of cordless tools they offer. nobody else comes close.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

BraveUlysses posted:

milwaukee is great because of the sheer variety of cordless tools they offer. nobody else comes close.

If you're a tradesperson, I agree. The M12 lineup is really diverse, and no one else offers that kind of spread in a 12V tool. PEX tools, Copper tube cutters (which are awesome), the ratchets (which no one else offers), 10 different caulk/glue guns, stapler, etc. Their 18V tools are pretty similar to Makita's.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

sharkytm posted:

If you're a tradesperson, I agree. The M12 lineup is really diverse, and no one else offers that kind of spread in a 12V tool. PEX tools, Copper tube cutters (which are awesome), the ratchets (which no one else offers), 10 different caulk/glue guns, stapler, etc. Their 18V tools are pretty similar to Makita's.

The M12 lineup is rad and the power ratchet is one of the best things ever invented.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Maybe I'm blind but does Milwaukee or Makita make a cordless tire inflator?

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
Ryobi does and it's a good buy if you can find one on sale

boxen
Feb 20, 2011
I do mostly automotive stuff with my tools, and I go with Milwaukee stuff for the big M18 fuel impact, and the M12 power ratchet. A lot of other things are a non-factor for me (the tradesman's tools, the huge batteries).

On a tangent, on Saturday I bought that Milwaukee tool chest I posted about, because my only friend that owns a pickup came over to watch football. Buying a toolbox at Home Depot feels real goofy, since you just take one of the assembled ones off the floor and roll it over to the checkout lanes. Ended up getting another $50 off (on top of the $200 off sale) by signing up for the HD credit card. Three non-scrawny dudes were enough to lift the top and bottom (separately) into the back of a pickup.

Had to rearrange my garage so I could fit the toolchest in with all my other poo poo and still have room for a car, and I think I have insufficient garage for my toolchest, but I think that is The Way Things Should Be, rather than the other way around. It's a nice piece too, seems solid and well thought out, although admittedly I haven't even finished putting my tools in it yet.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I have $75 to spend at Amazon, and I'm looking for a 4.5" angle grinder in the sub $100 range. The 11 amp DeWalt comes in at $82 with the power, but that AvE guy likes Makita and those are $80 with a case and a stack of wheels, but only 7.5 amp. I can get the DeWalt with a case for $7 more, or the Makita without a case/wheels for $12 less.

This would most likely be used for cutting random metal things where the sawzall wont suffice, or light tile work/cement board.

Any recommendations?

Will also take suggestions for other things to buy with my gift cards.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

e: you can't really go wrong either way. We abuse the hell out of the 11 amp paddle switch Dewalts and the cheaper 7 amp version. They're great. Hard to kill, easy to fix.
Makita grinders are weird until you get into the rat tail 6" (which are awesome). The handles are at a dumb angle. Same with Milwaukee. I'd honestly recommend getting the 7 amp Dewalt and just using the hell out of it. The power difference isn't super significant unless you're beveling heavier steel or grinding out welds.

Colostomy Bag posted:

Maybe I'm blind but does Milwaukee or Makita make a cordless tire inflator?
Dewalt and Ridgid do, I don't think Makita or Milwaukee do.



For battery stuff, Milwaukee absolutely dominates the trades. At least around here, plumbers, carpenters, hvac and electricians use Milwaukee by a wide margin. Mostly because of the super specialized stuff, which gets real wild (like transfer pumps, the mag drill, 3" power planer, drain snakes, and all the trade specific crimpers/presses/shears/knockouts/cutters.

I use Milwaukee too, but for the normal impact/drill/recip I don't think there's any significant difference between the big 3 except which battery ecosystem you want to buy into. We use Dewalt and Makita at work (and Ridgid, which I don't love) and for general carpentry, it doesn't matter at all for me.

and yeah, the M12 fuel ratchets are the poo poo. I trashed my wrists and hands, and that thing saves me a lot of pain.

Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Jan 8, 2018

phongn
Oct 21, 2006

Why use the ratchets over the normal drivers? Clearance issues?

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
access

plus you can zip the fastener all the way down to the max torque of the ratchet (35lb?) and then tighten by hand, same goes for loosening and zip the fastener the rest of the way off

HandlingByJebus
Jun 21, 2009

All of a sudden, I found myself in love with the world, so there was only one thing I could do:
was ding a ding dang, my dang a long racecar.

It's a love affair. Mainly jebus, and my racecar.

FogHelmut posted:

I have $75 to spend at Amazon, and I'm looking for a 4.5" angle grinder in the sub $100 range. The 11 amp DeWalt comes in at $82 with the power, but that AvE guy likes Makita and those are $80 with a case and a stack of wheels, but only 7.5 amp. I can get the DeWalt with a case for $7 more, or the Makita without a case/wheels for $12 less.

This would most likely be used for cutting random metal things where the sawzall wont suffice, or light tile work/cement board.

Any recommendations?

Will also take suggestions for other things to buy with my gift cards.

I have a pair of the Hitachi units with which I am very happy. They’re well-built and seem tough - no professional use here but have used them ~weekly for over a year without issues.

Ferremit
Sep 14, 2007
if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

Well it took us 4 years at work (government!) to finally kill a milwaukee M18 tool, and that was a 1/2" drill thats had such abuse as:

Boring 30 16mm holes through 10mm steel plate while laying on its side in builders sand with the fan blowing grains of sand into your face.

Being left in a wheelbarrow outside in the rain overnight

Being dropped off a roof. Twice.

Being used with a wire brush attachment to remove mineral buildup off bore pipe threads

Being thrown in the back of a ute and bounced around bush tracks all day slamming into the tray sides


Eventually the motor gave up the ghost. Bet it was just a set of brushes away from working again, but by that stage the gearbox was crunchy, the chuck didnt grip properly and the new fuel stuff was out so we just upgraded it instead

boxen
Feb 20, 2011

Ferremit posted:

Bet it was just a set of brushes away from working again, but by that stage the gearbox was crunchy, the chuck didnt grip properly and the new fuel stuff was out so we just upgraded it instead

A brushless would have still been going!

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
This talk of cordless stuff and batteries etc particularly the Mil M18 stuff has made me think a bit.

Sure there are a lot of tools available for the m18 stuff, but how practical is it?
I get things like drill/impact, sawzall, hand held work light and a few of those things, but like how many cuts would you be able to get out of the compound bevel sliding mitre saw? How long is the battery going to last on your angle grinder, of the SDS plus hammer drill etc?

The only really practical use I see for *most* of that stuff is if you were say working at a site with no power, only had a little bit of work to do, and didn't want to lug around a generator/ extension cords. Or you're hoofing it in to the bush to work on your shack/rape lair, and same thing, you ain't got power and its not practical to lug around a generator.


I love my m18 poo poo, but I killed 4 batteries five times drilling 4 holes through the floor of a cube van with 2x something floor (ship lap boards I think they're called) using a 3 inch hole saw. I'm not trying to be all "cordless/m18 poo poo sucks" but it seems like a lot of that poo poo doesn't have a practical use beyond "gently caress yeah its cordless" or quick set up for quick/small jobs.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

You must have had a bad set of batteries or a blunt hole saw or had it running backwards because that's abnormal. As a guide I've put a 58mm holesaw through brick half a dozen times on a 2.4ah battery and not had it show even a quarter depleted, and that's with a ryobi, Milwaukee are better.

Cordless tools are practical, not just where you don't have electricity but everywhere. I did a little reno work last weekend and used 2 different drills, plunge saw, reciprocating saw and vacuum, only the plunge and recip saws were corded and were the most awkward to use because of it. All that work was done 3 feet from a wall outlet.

SpaceCadetBob
Dec 27, 2012
My construction company just bought Dewalt 20v cordless tools for everyone to make the switch from corded. Hammer Drills, Impacts, Sawsalls, Bandsaws. poo poo is so useful to have and not worry about running out cords all over the place. Plus we work with water and stuff gets mega wet so there is a nice safety boost of not messing around with 120v, especially when other crews like to tag on a non-gfi 4-way splitter before our cords since there is never enough temp power.

With the new brushless motors we run these things rough all day and they have been holding up great so far with tons of power to do the work we need.

boxen
Feb 20, 2011
I prefer cordless drills/saws/cutters because there's no cord for me to drill/saw/cut through while I'm working.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
I just walked into KC Tool, of internet sales fame and immediately walked out.

Kind of bummed that it’s just a wood-paneled office in a business park, not a place where I can go and handle weird German tools before buying them.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I like cordless convenience, but my old Ryobi 18v NiCd just didn't put out the torque. The drill and impact driver were fine except in the rare heavy duty situations, so I upgraded to a modern 20v lithium set of those, but they're really the only cordless tools I have. The Ryobi NiCd saws were near useless and that soured me on that kind of thing.

I imagine better brands actually perform, but for the cost and my usage, I'm fine to plug things in.

mod sassinator
Dec 13, 2006
I came here to Kick Ass and Chew Bubblegum,
and I'm All out of Ass
It's a whole new ball game with brushless 20V lithium stuff in my experience. Anything you thought about cordless tools in the past doesn't apply at all anymore. There are cordless impacts that do a legit 700+ ft/lbs (yes, _foot_ lbs) of torque. They tell you how much battery is left, run for a long time, and can sit on the shelf for months never losing charge. It's pretty darn astonishing and I personally have no problem going totally cordless in the future (other than the cost, it sucks but is getting way better).

mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Jan 11, 2018

SpaceCadetBob
Dec 27, 2012
We use the dewalt .5” drive heavy duty impact on some 8” steel pipe couplings that need 180 ftlb of torque and it chews them down no problem all day long. It really is night and day from the last generation or cordless tools.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

mod sassinator posted:

It's a whole new ball game with brushless 20V lithium stuff in my experience. Anything you thought about cordless tools in the past doesn't apply at all anymore. There are cordless impacts that do a legit 700+ ft/lbs (yes, _foot_ lbs) of torque. They tell you how much battery is left, run for a long time, and can sit on the shelf for months never losing charge. It's pretty darn astonishing and I personally have no problem going totally cordless in the future (other than the cost, it sucks but is getting way better).

I pick up my Makita LXT cordless grinder about 2x more than any of my 5+ corded grinders. Something fast, relatively light duty, or out in the yard? Cordless 100% of the time. I sold my old DeWalt corded circ saw, my LXT cordless does everything I could ask. I did keep the Hypoid saw, but that's more for breaking down sheet goods and cutting beams.

My air compressor only gets used to blow stuff off, fill tires, and occasionally run a die grinder. I haven't picked up either air impact wrench in close to a year. I don't even have the huge impact gun, but mine takes off wheels and does brakes really well, plus its tiny and doesn't need a hose.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
Anyone have a recommendation for an el-cheapo endoscope with lighting that will fit down a M14 spark plug hole and allow me to see the cylinder walls?

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
$10 USB endoscope?

Fo3
Feb 14, 2004

RAAAAARGH!!!! GIFT CARDS ARE FUCKING RETARDED!!!!

(I need a hug)

FogHelmut posted:

I like cordless convenience, but my old Ryobi 18v NiCd just didn't put out the torque. The drill and impact driver were fine except in the rare heavy duty situations, so I upgraded to a modern 20v lithium set of those, but they're really the only cordless tools I have. The Ryobi NiCd saws were near useless and that soured me on that kind of thing.

I imagine better brands actually perform, but for the cost and my usage, I'm fine to plug things in.

1) it was NiCd
2) it was ryobi

That's rule number 1 and rule number 2 of cordless tools you broke.
NiCd just can't get the volts and current of lithium ion
I once bought a ryobi lithium ion hammer drill, what a piece of poo poo those batteries are. My regular drill is makita and double it's age and still working fine.

E: I don't need everything cordless though so I semi agree with you. I'm so used to dragging cords everywhere in my previous job it's not a big issue to me either. It's not like milwaukee or makita sold cordless vacuum pumps or refrigerant reclaimers. But in general Lithium ion for torque or portability, a/c power tools for speed or continuous use.

Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:13 on Jan 11, 2018

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

cakesmith handyman posted:

You must have had a bad set of batteries or a blunt hole saw or had it running backwards because that's abnormal. As a guide I've put a 58mm holesaw through brick half a dozen times on a 2.4ah battery and not had it show even a quarter depleted, and that's with a ryobi, Milwaukee are better.

Cordless tools are practical, not just where you don't have electricity but everywhere. I did a little reno work last weekend and used 2 different drills, plunge saw, reciprocating saw and vacuum, only the plunge and recip saws were corded and were the most awkward to use because of it. All that work was done 3 feet from a wall outlet.

The saw was brand new, and I still have the batteries. It may have been the wood? This was through the floor of a cube van box, so they probably use hardwood as opposed to some softwood bullshit. The saw was running forward too. I did bind the saw up several dozen times over the course of each hole. But I don't think I was pushing down too hard or anything.

Anyway, it doesn't matter now, I still have the batteries, and the tools. You guys all made good points WRT batteries, practicality and whatnot. Particularly the dude who mentioned working in wet conditions, and cords being trip hazards etc.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Fo3 posted:

1) it was NiCd
2) it was ryobi

That's rule number 1 and rule number 2 of cordless tools you broke.
NiCd just can't get the volts and current of lithium ion
I once bought a ryobi lithium ion hammer drill, what a piece of poo poo those batteries are. My regular drill is makita and double it's age and still working fine.

I will not defend NiCd.
I have 4+year old ryobi lithium's that still behave perfectly. Are you bagging on the drill or the battery in your comment? The basic drills are cheap disposable diy-level tools but I've still not killed either of my 2.

Ryobi chargers however I've had troubles with, the original fast charger I got blew a hole through its mosfet and I've never got round to trying to repair it. I've three mini slow chargers that turned up with various tools and one is a bit picky about the batteries that go in it but still charges.

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
FYI You can use new Ryobi lithium ion 18v batteries in your old blue Ryobi tools

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

wesleywillis posted:

The saw was brand new, and I still have the batteries. It may have been the wood? This was through the floor of a cube van box, so they probably use hardwood as opposed to some softwood bullshit. The saw was running forward too. I did bind the saw up several dozen times over the course of each hole. But I don't think I was pushing down too hard or anything.

Anyway, it doesn't matter now, I still have the batteries, and the tools. You guys all made good points WRT batteries, practicality and whatnot. Particularly the dude who mentioned working in wet conditions, and cords being trip hazards etc.

I'm gonna guess that it was hard wood, and you clogged the hole saw with sawdust. Every tooth depth you drill, you need to clean out the dust.

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stinch
Nov 21, 2013

sharkytm posted:

I'm gonna guess that it was hard wood, and you clogged the hole saw with sawdust. Every tooth depth you drill, you need to clean out the dust.

if you still a few smaller holes around the circumference the sawdust can get out and the hole saw will go through quickly in one go.

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