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The Midniter posted:What's the best way to remove sawdust from a table I just finished sanding, before I begin the staining process? I don't have a shop vac, but was considering using my regular vacuum with a brush attachment, giving it a once-over, then wiping it down with a wet rag and letting it dry completely. Will this work? No the wet rag will raise the grain, I don't think you want that. Get tack cloths from the paint department.
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Jan 9, 2018 16:56
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Falco posted:I’ve been wanting to get going on a CAD program at home forever. I have used Solidworks for work for years. I attempted to try Sketchup for about 30 minutes and hated it since it’s totally different than traditional CAD programs. But I just can’t justify the cost of Solidworks at home. Fusion looks awesome and makes things a hell of a lot more affordable, but even $300 is hard to justify on software. Are you using the full paid version? Fusion 360 is totally free for students, enthusiasts and startups making less than 100k a year. I pay nothing.
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Jan 9, 2018 17:20
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Hypnolobster posted:I really want to move over to it, but I never put in the effort. I launch it and start reading/watching tutorials and give up 20m later. Lars Christensen made some good tutorials I thought. Really helped. Then I need to find some actual stuff I want to make as I can't just sit around doing tutorials for it's own sake either.
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Jan 9, 2018 17:22
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His Divine Shadow posted:Fusion 360 is totally free for students, enthusiasts and startups making less than 100k a year. I pay nothing. I'm only seeing the student access which requires a .edu email address, where's the link for enthusiasts?
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Jan 9, 2018 17:44
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Mikey Purp posted:I'm only seeing the student access which requires a .edu email address, where's the link for enthusiasts? Go for the free trial. You then create an account, and when you start the program you get asked about licensing. Then you get to activate it for one year at a time for hobbyist/non-commercial use. https://knowledge.autodesk.com/supp...Fusion-360.html
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Jan 9, 2018 17:56
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You got to download the free trial version from here first: https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/free-trial Then you follow these steps to activate the enthusiast/startup option once installed: https://knowledge.autodesk.com/supp...Fusion-360.html
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Jan 9, 2018 17:58
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Falco posted:I’ve been wanting to get going on a CAD program at home forever. I have used Solidworks for work for years. I attempted to try Sketchup for about 30 minutes and hated it since it’s totally different than traditional CAD programs. But I just can’t justify the cost of Solidworks at home. Fusion looks awesome and makes things a hell of a lot more affordable, but even $300 is hard to justify on software. Are you using the full paid version? Fusion 360 has an feature complete enthusiast/start-up version that's free so long as you're not making more than $100k/yr using it. https://knowledge.autodesk.com/supp...Fusion-360.html
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Jan 9, 2018 18:16
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Awesome, thank you guys, that makes a lot more sense now. I'll check it out and see if I can wrap my head around it a bit easier than I did with Sketchup. I definitely need to get better at planning my projects out ahead of time, and I think this will help.
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Jan 9, 2018 18:39
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I had a couple of general questions. I got a bunch of the Taunton's manuals suggested in the OP and am reading up on a good bit before eventually starting up on building a few things. I have to wait until sometime later this year / early next until we move to really start fitting out a shop and building some simple 1st projects so for now it's just reading and maybe looking for steals on used or discounted smaller tools that I can store away until the move. Ideally I'd like to build some fairly simplistic dining room, coffee and end tables and possibly some mud room bench chests and a few other storage things like some book cases, maybe a small wetbar cabinet + table etc. From reading through the books so far I'm having a tough time knowing exactly how far to go in regards to tools to get. I won't have a massive amount of shop space so I am not sure if I can get large floor model tools for many things. I was thinking for certain I should get a table saw, router table and miter saw. I also want to get a drill press, but more for other non-woodworking projects. Are there any other non-portable / non-hand tool larger format stuff that would be considered a 'must get' for the stuff I am looking to build some day?
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Jan 9, 2018 18:54
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There's no right answer. My suggestion is to find woodworkers on YouTube who do the style of woodworking that you're interested in, then get the tools you see them using.
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Jan 9, 2018 19:04
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If you're short on floor space, consider a band saw instead of a table saw. That will let you do most crosscutting and length-cutting of natural boards. If you plan to be working with sheet goods a lot, it's not as good an idea, a table saw is much more flexible for that.
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Jan 9, 2018 19:12
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ColdPie posted:There's no right answer. My suggestion is to find woodworkers on YouTube who do the style of woodworking that you're interested in, then get the tools you see them using. Honestly, that's a pretty drat good answer. I'm basically in the same boat as That Works, for what it's worth - I've done a little puttering around but my shop space is mid-reno and I'm definitely new. I also have pretty similar goals. There's a lot of overlap between different tools. A lot of cuts you do on a miter saw can be done on a table saw with a crosscut sled, but not all of them. A lot of stuff a bandsaw does can be done with a combination of scroll saw and tablesaw, but not all of it. A planer can joint boards with a jointer sled (check youtube for instructions) but nothing really replaces a planer. If you're doing a lot of work with sheet goods or big boards, a tablesaw is likely to be very important and versatile and is kind of the default option for furniture making, from what I've seen. A planer is essentially both a tool and an ROI calculation, as one of the big things it does it save you money from buying surfaced lumber, and gives you more options. A dedicated jointer is going to be useful, but again, ROI: how much will you use one for the cost of the tool to win out over the time savings of using a sled and your planer instead?
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Jan 9, 2018 19:15
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I've built much of that class of stuff with a circular saw, a jig saw, a cordless drill, a rubber sanding block, and the normal hand tool stuff (a couple of saws, hammers, screwdrivers, levels and squares, etc), plus a pockethole jig. I borrowed a buddy's small handheld router to make dados instead of jigging some shelves and it was a trick. I could see adding that in. I think starting out, you want straight boards to use as fences, lots of clamps, and two good saw horses. Build a saw bench and put a couple of holdfast holes in it. Build a bench hook and cut a perfect 45-degree angle into it. That'll cover 99% of your use cases for a mitre saw starting out. Nobody would mistake my work as professional, but if you're building stuff along the complexity of Ana White patterns (no judgment, it's what I do mostly) that whole set up will cost you less than a good table saw and I promise your gently caress ups won't come on account of your tools. You will be a lot slower, but starting out that's not such a bad thing. Slowing down is almost always quicker. Just start building stuff and learning. Put it in your house and use it. Make some ugly stuff, get smarter, then replace it.
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Jan 9, 2018 19:31
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Mikey Purp posted:I'm only seeing the student access which requires a .edu email address, where's the link for enthusiasts? Be sure to apply enthusiastically so they know you're legit.
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Jan 9, 2018 19:47
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What do y'all think of re: fusion360 vs. onshape?
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Jan 9, 2018 19:57
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Fusion 360 is the one true god. Don't spend time learning dead-end apps like SketchUp, Rhino, Inkwell, whatever else
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Jan 10, 2018 08:31
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If you are very space limited and plan on having a "proper" workbench with appliances like a miter box and a miter shooting board, then the most functionality with the most safety, demanding the least space, is the combination of a bandsaw and a track saw. Track saws are superior and safer for sheet goods and are great for ripping and crosscutting non-narrow stock. The bandsaw is great for ripping narrow to medium width stock, and crosscutting smaller stock can be done by hand with a miter box. I'm not against a sliding miter saw or anything, I own one and use it a lot, but if we are talking about the combo of limited space and also safety for a hobbyist, I still maintain that a table saw is the wrong direction.
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Jan 10, 2018 11:01
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Cobalt60 posted:Fusion 360 is the one true god. Don't spend time learning dead-end apps like SketchUp, Rhino, Inkwell, whatever else Different tool for different jobs. Rhino excels at NURB modeling and was/is big for jewelry and ship building. Sketchup is dirt simple. If you're making orthogonal parts it's hard to teach anyone to do anything in other programs that as quickly. Inventor like programs, such as Fusion360 and OnShape are meant for machining. I've only used OnShape and it was useful. I have access to all kinds of software so it was for amusement mostly. It worked.
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Jan 10, 2018 14:21
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Thanks for the info all. I was also kinda looking on the level of Ana White pattern type stuff also (as that's far more likely for me to actually successfully build right now) and I hadn't even considered a track saw vs a table saw but for what I'm looking into the utility is definitely there. Any suggestions on 'must have' hand tools vs ones that are not worth getting early on? I was looking at used hand planers and used or new chisel sets and probably should get a couple of hand saw varieties as well. Those at least are things I can shop for over the year and toss into a tool chest until I move to a place with a better room to work in.
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Jan 10, 2018 14:36
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Is there a good Fusion360 equivilant to http://sketchupforwoodworkers.com? I have to say that the screenshot last page was really nice but even Sketchup took me a while to get my head around since I'm not a designer or proper engineer by trade.That Works posted:Thanks for the info all. I was also kinda looking on the level of Ana White pattern type stuff also (as that's far more likely for me to actually successfully build right now) and I hadn't even considered a track saw vs a table saw but for what I'm looking into the utility is definitely there. The Stanley Bailey Sweetheart chisels are a decent value and well reviewed from what I've seen (I own the set and find it works just fine) - Narex is another good brand. I wouldn't go overboard on your first chisels. You need a big one for general work, and then smaller ones are handy when they're handy. Cheapest way to get into sharpening is using sandpaper - look up Scary Sharp sharpening method, but basically it's buy wet/dry sandpaper, glue it to a piece of tile or something flat, and then use that as your sharpening medium, swapping out paper when it gets old. It's expensive over time, but it's cheap in the short term. Planes and chisels need regular sharpening, so get used to it, and don't overthink sharpening. Japanese saws are fast, relatively cheap, and cut well, but are disposable. They cut on the pull and not the push; I prefer them myself but there's an argument to be made about a proper english style handsaw and learning to sharpen. Others can expand on it. Planes are basically two options - you either get an older (WWII era) Stanley used plane for generally cheap, or you drop the cash on a new Veritas or Lee Valley. Modern hand planes are pretty terrible, with some notable exceptions (the modern Stanley shoulder plane is pretty decent, for example). I would recommend getting a block plane and then a No5 / Jack plane, since that's basically the ones I've found the most use for.
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Jan 11, 2018 06:44
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That Works posted:
Get the anarchists design book and follow it's advice when it comes to what tools to buy. I'd second everything that Falcon said, other than the saw part. The Lee valley backsaws really made the Western / Japanese saw decision one of preference not price (cost of entry on Western is slightly higher, cost of ownership due to resharpenability is lower) Also when he said modern hand planes are terrible, I think what he meant is modern cheap hand planes are terrible. Current offererings under the veritas brand by Lee valley and from lie Nielsen are the highest quality mass manufactured hand planes in human history.
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Jan 11, 2018 09:20
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Just anecdotally I've never ever got on with a western saw over hundreds of DIY projects. I bought a cheap-ish pull saw and I can pretty much make exactly the cut I want every time in a quarter of the time it took me to ruin a 2x4 previously. I made an oak mallet a little ways back and every cut is where I wanted it to be and straight, I'm never going back.
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Jan 11, 2018 10:03
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Why was pushing a thin flexible strip even considered?
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Jan 11, 2018 10:22
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I like the western saws, I mean they look so much nicer... And of course I place a high moral value on tools not being the throw away kind. Seems if you really wanted to you can resharpen a western saw so it cuts on the pull stroke. And what about the frame saws, which are used more on the continent, you can use those as push or pull saws, just how you put in the blade, and most saws are symmetrical so you can just flip the saw around...
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Jan 11, 2018 11:02
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Thanks all. Is there anywhere to pick up the anarchist design book that's not $100? That's what I'm seeing so far on a 1st look.
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Jan 11, 2018 13:55
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That Works posted:Thanks all. Is there anywhere to pick up the anarchist design book that's not $100? That's what I'm seeing so far on a 1st look. It's under $60 for the pdf and book at lost art press. https://lostartpress.com/products/the-anarchists-design-book
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Jan 11, 2018 14:30
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Atticus_1354 posted:It's under $60 for the pdf and book at lost art press. Thanks!
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Jan 11, 2018 14:35
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And remember that millions of people have been woodworking for thousands of years with billions of different techniques. That's why I suggest sampling a bunch of different woodworkers on YouTube and finding some combination that appeals to you personally. For me, I'm a Schwarzophile and a hand tool nutjob. If you want to go down that route, I can give you references in spades (Design Book is a great place to start!). But you should know there are other options, too.
ColdPie fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Jan 11, 2018 |
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Jan 11, 2018 15:34
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GEMorris posted:Also when he said modern hand planes are terrible, I think what he meant is modern cheap hand planes are terrible. Current offererings under the veritas brand by Lee valley and from lie Nielsen are the highest quality mass manufactured hand planes in human history. Oh yeah, sorry. I meant modern Stanleys and knock off brands, not the high end stuff. Also Nthing the recommendation for the anarchist's design book. It's a great read - I haven't built anything out of there but it's sections on tools and everything are great. Falcon2001 fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Jan 11, 2018 |
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Jan 11, 2018 18:12
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Here's something that's kinda dumb. I built a floating dining bench out of plywood/oak and painted it white. Now I want add a stained oak board on the seat. The bench is ~72" long and, with a little bit of overhang, I'd need this stained board to be 72.5" long. The bench is about 18" deep. Ideally I'd be able to buy an 8' 1x20 and cut/rip it down to the dimensions I need. The longest 1x20s sold at Menards are only 72", a half inch too short. I called a local lumber yard, and they roughly quoted me $200 for such a board ($60 for 1x12, $50 for 1x8, $80 labor for glue up). This seems pretty silly. I don't have large clamps, a planer, or jointer, though, so I don't know how well I could do a glue up myself. I don't want to see a seam running down the middle of the bench, and I'm worried how two random S4S boards from Menards may take stain differently, making it even more noticeable. If I'm over-worrying about those things, then I guess the best solution here is to finally buy some >12" clamps and still probably make out better than the lumber yard.
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Jan 11, 2018 21:03
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Cut the bench down by 0.5" 
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Jan 11, 2018 21:39
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Delivering the crib today. Photos later when it's all done but for now I just wanted to share the piece of poo poo they got from the last "woodworkers" they commissioned one of these from.       Who the gently caress looks at that like "yes this is a finished product I will put my name behind"?
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Jan 11, 2018 23:55
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looks like latex paint that's been cleaned with Simple Green. A lot of people don't know that Simple Green is a latex paint stripper. e. I mean it also looks like it was poorly made, but I've seen that sort of paint peeling effect before, on my own windowsills, when I figured out it was the Simple Green doing it because my wife didn't know it's an excellent paint stripper.
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Jan 12, 2018 01:31
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Javid posted:Delivering the crib today. Photos later when it's all done but for now I just wanted to share the piece of poo poo they got from the last "woodworkers" they commissioned one of these from. There's a "style" now with antiques and not so antiques they call shabby chic, and it's pretentious. They kind of beat up and distress the furniture and slap a lovely paint job on it. That's pretty shabby even for that.
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Jan 12, 2018 03:23
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What tool would you use to round off a square edge of a board, such as on a windowsill? Manual or powered as long as the result is nice and consistent.
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Jan 12, 2018 15:51
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Router
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Jan 12, 2018 16:02
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Yep. Router with a roundover bit. The bit has a bearing to guide it along the edge of the board.
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Jan 12, 2018 16:25
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That's the same thing you'd use to cut a rebate, right? (With a different bit on it) Having not used one before how significant is the table vs hand held versions of them?
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Jan 12, 2018 16:44
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Jaded Burnout posted:That's the same thing you'd use to cut a rebate, right? (With a different bit on it) Any time you can cut a rebate is a win in my book. Table vs handheld depends on the job
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Jan 12, 2018 16:54
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Jaded Burnout posted:That's the same thing you'd use to cut a rebate, right? (With a different bit on it) You can buy or build a table as an accessory for a handheld router. Table is better for smaller pieces that you can't easily clamp or aren't held in place on their own, and cuts where you might want to use a fence to maintain a consistent distance from the cutter. Of course, you can also use straight edges as a fence on larger pieces with a handheld router.
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Jan 12, 2018 17:02
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