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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:People were asking about doing shiny metallics way earlier in the thread and I suggested the Molotow chrome pen. Well I've found a much more durable solution. Huh, that looks really cool. I might give that a shot and see how well it works as a way to achieve edge highlights if you only polish along the edges. Might be more hassle than it's worth.
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Jan 10, 2018 22:22
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I think it would work really well on something like custodes. It would be a pain to try to buff the entire model, but the edges of armor and stuff might come out really cool. Edit: the tubes are about $12 a piece at the hobby shop near me. The site is in € and I linked a combo pack, but they don't seem all that expensive. Kabuki Shipoopi fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Jan 10, 2018 |
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Jan 10, 2018 22:30
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I hosed up one of my Venomthropes.  Two of them had the tentacles stick on almost painlessly, but the last one the tentacles just wouldn't stick. They kept falling off at the slightest touch. I haven't had a model do that ever, so I thought the solution = more glue. Is there a solution for this? I've never used Green Stuff before, but maybe I could wrap it around the body and stick the tentacles in? Or just run it without tentacles, it still looks sufficiently creepy otherwise.
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Jan 10, 2018 22:44
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How much damage is your Molotow coating taking? I've only put big swathes of it on a display model, but I put it on the edges of swords on things I travel with and it's been pretty durable with a little varnish.
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Jan 10, 2018 22:47
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LifeLynx posted:I hosed up one of my Venomthropes. If it proves too hard to fix, just make it look like he got hit on that side with a flamer.
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Jan 10, 2018 22:50
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Did you wash the mini? When glue just won't stick is usually either mold release still on the model, which can be removed by washing in warm water and toothbrushing the mini and then rinsing, or old superglue which can be replaced.
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Jan 10, 2018 22:52
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grassy gnoll posted:How much damage is your Molotow coating taking? I've only put big swathes of it on a display model, but I put it on the edges of swords on things I travel with and it's been pretty durable with a little varnish. Pretty durable. I've used it sparingly as highlights on things and it's worked well especially with varnish.
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Jan 11, 2018 00:04
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Bit of x-posting from the Infinity thread... Some mad part of my brain decided that painting the eyes was a good idea. Now I'll feel obliged to paint eyes because I've shown I can do it.
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Jan 11, 2018 00:13
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Xaerael posted:Bit of x-posting from the Infinity thread... That looks really good, especially the face. I am The Worst at faces. I like the highlights on the hair too. Nice job!
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Jan 11, 2018 00:33
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Booyah- posted:I have a model primed with dragon red, i can slap some mephiston on part of it tonight and see how it compares. Pure red as basically the same as evil sunz scarlet, but no idea about dragon red. I gave this a shot, it's hard to tell the difference in pictures but it does seems like mephiston is slightly brighter.
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Jan 11, 2018 07:59
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Has anyone tried microwaving resin to straighten out a bend?
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Jan 11, 2018 13:28
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moths posted:Has anyone tried microwaving resin to straighten out a bend? Not microwave, but I've straightened up some Privateer Press restic parts by dipping them in boiling water. Seriously it instantly has the consistency of an al dente spaghetti noodle at that point.
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Jan 11, 2018 13:48
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Just use a hairdryer, less fuss.
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Jan 11, 2018 14:04
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I use a hairdryer and a cold water dunk to set the mini. Only time I don't is if the resin is heavily pigmented, because that can cause the pigment to bleed in rare cases. Then it's a hot water job and patience.
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Jan 11, 2018 14:42
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I've tried hot tap water but stopped shy of boiling. I'll give the hairdryer a shot and then boiling if that doesn't sort it. Thanks!
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Jan 11, 2018 14:58
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Got some poorly-painted models on the cheap, and I'm looking to strip and re-paint. I've been told Simple Green works well, but a couple of the minis are plastic. Anything I should be concerned about, or can I just chuck em all in there?
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Jan 11, 2018 15:03
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TheBigAristotle posted:Got some poorly-painted models on the cheap, and I'm looking to strip and re-paint. I've been told Simple Green works well, but a couple of the minis are plastic. Anything I should be concerned about, or can I just chuck em all in there? Simple green won't do anything to plastic. I've left stuff in it for months. Its also not amazing at actually stripping paint, I've had much more success with Super Clean https://www.walmart.com/ip/SuperClean-Tough-Task-Cleaner-Degreaser-1-gal/23752162 which also doesn't seem to harm plastic.
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Jan 11, 2018 15:24
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TheBigAristotle posted:Got some poorly-painted models on the cheap, and I'm looking to strip and re-paint. I've been told Simple Green works well, but a couple of the minis are plastic. Anything I should be concerned about, or can I just chuck em all in there? Simple Green is fine on plastic, though it can take a bit to be effective if the paint or varnish are on thick. You can leave plastic models for an extended soak with no ill effects. (Thanks for reminding me, I have about 9 Tau sitting in a jar of SG for about the past couple of months....) e: f, b e2: Use an old toothbrush to get paint out of the crevices after soaking.
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Jan 11, 2018 15:26
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Booley posted:Simple green won't do anything to plastic. I've left stuff in it for months. Its also not amazing at actually stripping paint, I've had much more success with Super Clean https://www.walmart.com/ip/SuperClean-Tough-Task-Cleaner-Degreaser-1-gal/23752162 which also doesn't seem to harm plastic. How long should I have them soaking?
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Jan 11, 2018 15:28
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Usually at least a day is enough to start getting most of the majority done. If it was really globbed on or some of the more tenacious spray paint/primers it can take longer or multiple soaks. LAs Totally Awesome Cleaner at Dollar Tree is also pretty good.
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Jan 11, 2018 15:44
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After leaving some ebay rescue russes that were primed with roofing tar in LA Totally Awesome for a month to no results I switched to Dawn Power Dissolver and the poo poo came of in sheets after 20-30 minutes.
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Jan 11, 2018 16:00
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I have 4 Kastelan Robots total for my AdMech army. 2 are already painted in a Mars theme, so for the other 2 I decided to paint them up as the legendary Kastelans from the AdMech codex. Partly because I like the look of them, and partly because I only had yellow primer. Here's 3-Null Cortex in the codex.  Here's as far as I got last night.  Unfortunately my primer fuzzed (which the yellow has done to me every single time I've used it, so i'm tossing the can). I just decided to paint it and deal with it, just going for a tabletop quality.
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Jan 11, 2018 16:49
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As a heads up to those of you who got in on the Badger $54 special offer the other day but haven't received additional correspondence beyond the initial rules/guidelines email, I feel like I got in on the tail end of the offer and I just received my Paypal invoice from Badger. $64 shipped for an Xtreme Patriot 105 feels real good.
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Jan 11, 2018 17:00
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What should I be using to strip resin?
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Jan 11, 2018 17:02
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Deino posted:As a heads up to those of you who got in on the Badger $54 special offer the other day but haven't received additional correspondence beyond the initial rules/guidelines email, I feel like I got in on the tail end of the offer and I just received my Paypal invoice from Badger. $64 shipped for an Xtreme Patriot 105 feels real good. drat good deal. Would have jumped on it myself if I were in need of a 2nd airbrush
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Jan 11, 2018 17:04
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LA's Totally Awesome Cleaner is... totally awesome. I poured it on a used Harpy I bought off a friend, and immediately the first layer of paint came off to reveal the white primer underneath. I scrubbed it with a toothbrush real quick and the primer showed underneath. I've heard it works fast, but thirty seconds fast? I'm still going to let it soak for at least a few hours before I try to scrub it completely.
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Jan 11, 2018 17:25
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Picked up some super clean, any recommendations on the ratio of cleaner to water?
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Jan 11, 2018 17:32
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Ratio? Maybe I'm doin' it wrong, but I just pour a little Super Clean in a glass bowl and drop the mini in it.
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Jan 11, 2018 17:35
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I bought 5 gallons of Purple Power at the auto store for the price of 1 gallon of Super Clean. Purple Power works great. It even removed the 14 year old extra heavy Dark Angel Green spray paint I coated them in. Do yourself a favor, and buy a firm bristled toothbrush like a person with dentures would use. It works faster than a soft bristled brush.
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Jan 11, 2018 17:43
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ijyt posted:Just use a hairdryer, less fuss. I got a heat gun, and while it’s an additional cost, it works so much better that it’s unbelievable. Some resin mixes just don’t retain their new shape after blow-drying or boiling water, but a heat gun works perfectly.
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Jan 11, 2018 18:18
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Avenging Dentist posted:I got a heat gun, and while it’s an additional cost, it works so much better that it’s unbelievable. Some resin mixes just don’t retain their new shape after blow-drying or boiling water, but a heat gun works perfectly. Not sure how, they’re both the same principle, I’ve never had an issue with straightening things using a normal hairdryer on forgeworld and non-forgeworld resin.
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Jan 11, 2018 19:03
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TheBigAristotle posted:Picked up some super clean, any recommendations on the ratio of cleaner to water? All cleaner, no water.
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Jan 11, 2018 19:21
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dexefiend posted:I bought 5 gallons of Purple Power at the auto store for the price of 1 gallon of Super Clean. Purple Power and an ultrasonic cleaner are amazing.
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Jan 11, 2018 19:24
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Purple Power and an ultrasonic cleaner are amazing. Yeah I've been using Super Clean and an ultrasonic cleaner. It plowed through all the caked on primer from all the second hand nids I bought. I also use these brushes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M8GMS6/ They're for getting in and cleaning weird little places on kitchen appliances... so exactly perfect for getting into weird corners on little paint mans. The bristles are perfect, stiff but plastic and doesn't leave scratches on the plastic even if you go crazy with it.
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Jan 11, 2018 19:32
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What brushes do folks typically use for drybrushing?
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Jan 11, 2018 19:47
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:What brushes do folks typically use for drybrushing? I know it's taboo, but I actually really like the Citadel drybrushes. That and their medium shade are in constant use for me alongside my sables for normal duty.
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Jan 11, 2018 20:00
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:What brushes do folks typically use for drybrushing? Army Painter Drybrush. I am bad at drybrushing and I dunno if it's me or the brush.
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Jan 11, 2018 21:31
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Super cleaner was insanely effective on the metal minis, but not so much on the plastics. Maybe they just need more time? They take a lot more scrubbing, the metal ones' paint just sloughed off with little effort
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Jan 11, 2018 21:35
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ijyt posted:Not sure how, they’re both the same principle, I’ve never had an issue with straightening things using a normal hairdryer on forgeworld and non-forgeworld resin. You can go MUCH hotter with a heat gun. Some of the resin kits I’ve put together would just spring back into shape with anything less. I’m pretty sure I had the thing set around 300° F.
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Jan 11, 2018 21:39
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Shadin posted:I know it's taboo, but I actually really like the Citadel drybrushes. That and their medium shade are in constant use for me alongside my sables for normal duty. Yeah, I like them too. The AP ones seem to go bad pretty quickly, while I've had GW drybrushes for years.
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Jan 11, 2018 21:42
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