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Avenging Dentist posted:You can go MUCH hotter with a heat gun. Some of the resin kits I’ve put together would just spring back into shape with anything less. I’m pretty sure I had the thing set around 300° F. drat, the hell kind of resin is that.
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Jan 11, 2018 21:50
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Is there a go-to brand for rattlecan primers? Preferably in grey - I just want something that sticks well, doesn't take a million hours to dry, and isn't gritty.
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Jan 11, 2018 21:52
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TheBigAristotle posted:Super cleaner was insanely effective on the metal minis, but not so much on the plastics. Maybe they just need more time? They take a lot more scrubbing, the metal ones' paint just sloughed off with little effort Some primers bond to the plastic. I use Super Clean all the time and it's the one I prefer, but it doesn't always get every last bit of paint off of plastic minis.
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Jan 11, 2018 21:56
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Is there a go-to brand for rattlecan primers? Preferably in grey - I just want something that sticks well, doesn't take a million hours to dry, and isn't gritty. If you’re in the UK you can’t do better than Halford’s In the 500ml can.
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Jan 11, 2018 21:59
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Is there a go-to brand for rattlecan primers? Preferably in grey - I just want something that sticks well, doesn't take a million hours to dry, and isn't gritty. If you don't care about price I like Army Painter's stuff.
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Jan 11, 2018 22:01
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ijyt posted:drat, the hell kind of resin is that. It was a Coatlai from CMoN. I spent the better part of a week trying a hair drier and boiling water until I gave up and bought a heat gun. I like it a lot though since it works really fast on most resins. A few seconds and I can flex even relatively thick pieces. It’s also good if you or someone you know does cosplay, since it’s great for thermoplastic.
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Jan 11, 2018 22:06
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Deino posted:As a heads up to those of you who got in on the Badger $54 special offer the other day but haven't received additional correspondence beyond the initial rules/guidelines email, I feel like I got in on the tail end of the offer and I just received my Paypal invoice from Badger. $64 shipped for an Xtreme Patriot 105 feels real good. You got the person who is working from the back end. That means those of us in the middle will now be last.
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Jan 11, 2018 22:15
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ijyt posted:If you’re in the UK you can’t do better than Halford’s In the 500ml can. +1 on this
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Jan 11, 2018 23:00
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Is there a go-to brand for rattlecan primers? Preferably in grey - I just want something that sticks well, doesn't take a million hours to dry, and isn't gritty.
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Jan 11, 2018 23:01
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I'm a huge fan of Duplicolor, it's sold in auto parts stores in the US.
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Jan 11, 2018 23:04
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moths posted:I'm a huge fan of Duplicolor, it's sold in auto parts stores in the US. Which one do you use? Also, does it work well on GW miniatures?
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Jan 11, 2018 23:34
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Philthy posted:You got the person who is working from the back end. That means those of us in the middle will now be last. Yeah, I think there was a decent bit of time left when I sent my email and I still haven't gotten anything aside from the initial confirmation.
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Jan 12, 2018 00:14
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So I managed to strip some old metal models with Xylene. It worked amazingly well but I still can't get the remaining primer out of some of the recesses. A toothbrush isn't cutting it. Any suggestions for what to use? I tried an ultrasonic cleaner but it didn't do poo poo.
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Jan 12, 2018 03:44
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Partial Octopus posted:So I managed to strip some old metal models with Xylene. It worked amazingly well but I still can't get the remaining primer out of some of the recesses. A toothbrush isn't cutting it. Any suggestions for what to use? I tried an ultrasonic cleaner but it didn't do poo poo. For metal, there's always the nuclear option. Carburetor cleaner. Do not touch with skin. Do dispose of responsibly.
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Jan 12, 2018 04:29
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I'm pretty sure Super Clean dissolves super glue. I left a metal GUO in for a couple months and there was nothing left on the model, just goopy flakes floating around in a jar full of chemicals.
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Jan 12, 2018 04:50
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Partial Octopus posted:So I managed to strip some old metal models with Xylene. It worked amazingly well but I still can't get the remaining primer out of some of the recesses. A toothbrush isn't cutting it. Any suggestions for what to use? I tried an ultrasonic cleaner but it didn't do poo poo. Acetone.
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Jan 12, 2018 13:36
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Partial Octopus posted:So I managed to strip some old metal models with Xylene. It worked amazingly well but I still can't get the remaining primer out of some of the recesses. A toothbrush isn't cutting it. Any suggestions for what to use? I tried an ultrasonic cleaner but it didn't do poo poo. Sometimes the nooks and crannies need a dental pick or a pin to get the paint dislodged. Though there does come a point where you have to accept that you have done good enough and just give it a wash with dish soap and prime it.
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Jan 12, 2018 14:49
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I'm moving along on a 120MM rounded base that will feature a stream running from one side of the base to the other. I've built up the banks of each side of the stream with cork, and once I prime and get stuff painted, I'll be using water effects for basically the second time, previously having done it with a well which is relatively self-contained. Questions are: 1) What can I do to wall off the ends of the stream while the water effect settles and dries, but that will be removable afterwards without damaging anything else on the base? 2) Do I need to worry about any seepage through the cork or its layers? I'll be building up to about a centimeter below the top of the wreck marker in the stream. 3) Anything else to consider? 
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Jan 12, 2018 15:39
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Acetone. He is right this will work for metal but just to be clear: DO NOT USE IT FOR PLASTICS!!!! There is a reason why they make videos of plastic things melting with acetone vapors.
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Jan 12, 2018 15:46
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Zuul the Cat posted:Which one do you use? Also, does it work well on GW miniatures? I'vw used the Duplicolor black, white, and hotrod gray sandable primer. It puts down a really smooth coat on anything - I've primed a lot of GW figures. The hotrod grey is basically panzer grey if you're doing WW2.
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Jan 12, 2018 15:50
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Pyrolocutus posted:I'm moving along on a 120MM rounded base that will feature a stream running from one side of the base to the other. I've built up the banks of each side of the stream with cork, and once I prime and get stuff painted, I'll be using water effects for basically the second time, previously having done it with a well which is relatively self-contained. 1) Clear plastic, like from blister packs, is a good way to block off places for water effects. You'll have to figure out how to attach it to the base and remove it, but I see a lot of people using 2-part epoxy as a quick waterproof way of getting the clear plastic on there. I'd advise to attach it to the rim of the base so that, upon removal, you can scrape any lingering epoxy off of it without having to redo a bunch of stuff. Base rims are much easier and more forgiving to fix. 2) Possibly. I'd put a layer or two of gloss varnish on the cork, where you'll be putting the water effects, to help seal it in and prevent seepage. As well, gloss over any sand/paint you'll be putting down below the water so that there's no chance of the paint or sand getting loose and tainting the water. You'll want to varnish the whole model first (gloss and then satin or matte, whichever you prefer), then start glossing the water area. 3) I'd seriously advise doing a test run of this first before you commit to the finished model. Do a makeshift copy of it on some junk plastic of similar size that you won't mind having to toss out if it goes bad. While this isn't a very difficult idea you've got going on, it always pays to practice first when you're unfamiliar with a particular technique, especially water effects which can be a bit annoying to work with at times.
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Jan 12, 2018 16:49
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Slimnoid posted:1) Clear plastic, like from blister packs, is a good way to block off places for water effects. You'll have to figure out how to attach it to the base and remove it, but I see a lot of people using 2-part epoxy as a quick waterproof way of getting the clear plastic on there. I'd advise to attach it to the rim of the base so that, upon removal, you can scrape any lingering epoxy off of it without having to redo a bunch of stuff. Base rims are much easier and more forgiving to fix. Great! Thank you. I'm going to try myself with another model first for sure, but I'll keep the clear plastic and varnishing approaches in mind.
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Jan 12, 2018 17:40
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I don't know how likely he is to see this but Alokgen did this very well with some Guildball bases. He could probably answer your questions. Alokgen posted:Here's hoping Cat Face Joe gets another promotion at work.
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Jan 12, 2018 18:00
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Finished up first small batch of hazmat troopers. 
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Jan 12, 2018 18:54
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Skails posted:Finished up first small batch of hazmat troopers. This is a rad scheme that I like very much.
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Jan 12, 2018 19:15
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Has anyone used the Forgeworld clear paints? Angron Red and Calth Blue sure look mighty tempting for finally doing something about my Betrayal at Calth boxset. Just wondering how they are and if they should go over a silver metallic or if a gold or copper/bronze would look better.
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Jan 12, 2018 19:27
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Shadin posted:Has anyone used the Forgeworld clear paints? Angron Red and Calth Blue sure look mighty tempting for finally doing something about my Betrayal at Calth boxset. Just wondering how they are and if they should go over a silver metallic or if a gold or copper/bronze would look better. I haven't used the forgeworld clears but I have use the Tamaya and Minitair clears and clear red over bright gold gives you a beautiful rich metalic red. Clear blue I've only tried with different silvers.
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Jan 12, 2018 20:33
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Bucnasti posted:I haven't used the forgeworld clears but I have use the Tamaya and Minitair clears and clear red over bright gold gives you a beautiful rich metalic red. Clear blue I've only tried with different silvers. Yeah I saw the Tamiya but since my booth doesn't actually vent to the outdoors their stuff is kind of a no-go. I should rectify that.
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Jan 12, 2018 20:39
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Weathering questions for historical vehicles: I bought some weathering powder: does the powder go on first, then the alcohol, or vice versa? Also I just painted a WW2 truck with a canvas-covered bed, any suggestions on how best to get the canvas looking a bit dirty and weather-beaten?
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Jan 12, 2018 22:31
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I wanna do this for my dark admech: Any thoughts on how to get this sort of base and highlight color? The rust orange I can do pretty well, but I'm new to blue.
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Jan 12, 2018 22:41
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P3 Coal Black would be where I'd start the midtones on that. Mix in brighter turquoise for the highlights.
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Jan 12, 2018 22:46
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I agree. P3 coal Black, then mix highlights with GW thunder hawk blue.
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Jan 13, 2018 02:27
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Zuul the Cat posted:This is a rad scheme that I like very much. Thanks, I wasn't sure how the scheme would really look until I had some guys painted, and I'm happy with it. Also gonna do a couple Leman Russes a sentinel and a couple squads of catachans. I plan on using the yellow and black on the catachans and replacing their heads with gas masks or respirators. I used gloss medium/varnish on the black parts, not sure if I want to keep them glossy. Will matte medium over the top cut the gloss without doing anything weird?
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Jan 13, 2018 03:36
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   Now to wait for the washes to dry so I can do pigments and whatever else. Anyone have a good desert base recipe using Vallejo paints?
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Jan 13, 2018 03:45
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Anyone have any experience using oil paints as a glaze? I've stumbled across a lot of tutorials about using them to add weathering, but I'm curious if they'd be useful for adding really subtle tints to an acrylic base. The closest thing I can find is scale modelers using them to do dot filters on large vehicles, so I'm not sure if the technique transfers to smaller-scale stuff. Oil paints are expensive as poo poo so I don't really want to throw a bunch of money away if what I'm envisioning just doesn't work on smaller stuff, so I'm hoping someone here has experimented with it a time or two. I'd basically want to do extremely subtle, almost completely transparent glazes that just add a very slight tint to an entire surface. I know acrylic glazes could be used, but I'm a very slow painter and I like the idea of having a bit more drying time to fiddle with things (and the ability to knock it all off with thinner if I don't like it).
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Jan 13, 2018 04:37
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What you have described are called 'filters' in the scale modeling world, but they are essentially glazes that modulate the color underneath. I use it all the time and I find myself using more and more oils and less and less acrylics. Dot filters are another thing entirely. You can buy premade filters or make your own by thinning down paint a lot. I'm not sure you need to add anything into it like you would for a traditional 'gw' style wash. Oil is not that expensive and you get a ton of it to work with. I think I pay about $6 for a tube of paint and about $15 for some high quality mineral spirit. Nice synthetic brushes cost about $6 each. I still have my 5 tubes of paint and I don't really want any more colors. dexefiend posted:
For that base, just put some warm white as a basecoat. Highlight it up and shade it with a creamy white color. Then wash the entire thing with a burnt umber color (I use oils) and follow up with violet pigments for shadows and yellow earth pigments for everything else. Here's how mine turn out: 
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Jan 13, 2018 05:31
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For my bases I use Vallejo Bonewhite, then wash with Army Painter Strong Tone, then drybrush with Bonewhite followed by White.
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Jan 13, 2018 05:44
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Thanks man! My first attempt doesn't look as good as yours, but it worked! 
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Jan 13, 2018 06:52
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X-posting from the Keep Painting thread.ijyt posted:Complete! Gosh I love weathering. ijyt fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Jan 13, 2018 |
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Jan 13, 2018 19:53
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I'm looking to paint a tank with an airbrush for the first time. I have an Iwata HP-C plus. Is there any way I can change a nozzle or a needle so that I get a wide spray? I'm worried that with such a fine spray it will be difficult to get a consistent level of paint across the tank.
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Jan 13, 2018 19:54
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