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Sorry it was late and I misspoke a bit. The AP is assigned to 192.168.1.2, but the Unifi Controller is set up on a new Raspberry Pi (hostname rpi), which is assigned to 192.168.1.3. I meant to say that the Unifi Controller management page is accessed at 192.168.1.3:8443 or rpi.mydomain.com:8443. I can manually ssh into the AP at 192.168.1.2 or ap.mydomain.com though. I think I get it though, with the reverse proxy bit. e: I don’t want to forward 443 to 8443 internally on the entire Raspberry Pi cause presumably I want to host other services on it. But you’re right I really don’t know how this works. quote:# hosted on RPI That’s what I want. None of the self hosted stuff should be accessible by anyone not connected to my network nor should people even know those sub domains exist. mydomain.com is an actual domain I own though that I host some things on Digital Ocean. e2: Am I just describing “intranet” and would it be better to use a single subdomain, eg home.mydomain.com/unifi instead, so that I can get a SSL certificate and stop these security warnings? Boris Galerkin fucked around with this message at 09:41 on Jan 12, 2018 |
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Jan 12, 2018 09:25
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Boris Galerkin posted:Sorry it was late and I misspoke a bit. The AP is assigned to 192.168.1.2, but the Unifi Controller is set up on a new Raspberry Pi (hostname rpi), which is assigned to 192.168.1.3. I meant to say that the Unifi Controller management page is accessed at 192.168.1.3:8443 or rpi.mydomain.com:8443. I can manually ssh into the AP at 192.168.1.2 or ap.mydomain.com though. E2 is impossible without reverse proxying. Simplest thing would be to put all three devices onto port 443 and be done with it, or put a website on the RPI, and forward to the appropriate sites, but this would mean that the browser shows the IP and port. If you want the address bar to show https://something.domain.com/ you have to use port 443.
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Jan 12, 2018 15:56
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Can someone recommend a tiny fanless rock solid gigabit 5 port switch?
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Jan 12, 2018 18:59
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NETGEAR GS105 should fit your requirements. The GS105E is web-managed and does VLANs if you need that.
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Jan 12, 2018 19:05
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Cool, thank you. Weird how the managed E version is a quid or two cheaper than the non-managed version, on Amazon.co.uk.
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Jan 12, 2018 19:10
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5 port switches are bad because they breed like rabbits. You get one and the next thing you know there's a whole web of tiny switches everywhere
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Jan 12, 2018 20:14
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At least rackmount ones can be tied down
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Jan 12, 2018 20:22
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CrazyLittle posted:5 port switches are bad because they breed like rabbits. You get one and the next thing you know there's a whole web of tiny switches everywhere I need a small one for the TV and steamlink. No point getting an 8 port.
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Jan 12, 2018 22:38
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Steakandchips posted:I need a small one for the TV and steamlink. No point getting an 8 port. Until you need more ports, which always happens.
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Jan 13, 2018 12:11
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SEKCobra posted:Until you need more ports, which always happens. "I'm never going to need to add another hardwired device" is never true, source: literally everyone ever
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Jan 13, 2018 20:27
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Photex posted:You'll get TV you just don't get the TV Guide and other data related info, but really you should just buy an HDHomeRun and rent a cablecard instead THAT'S what it was. Thanks for the reminder. So I'm gonna start pulling wire in my house today, finally! I only plan on doing the 1st floor. The upstairs is gonna be a whole different mess because I'm coming down from the attic and mounting the switch in the laundry room and I just don't feel like doing all that this weekend. The Smartcom guy came back out Wednesday and pulled a string (which they forgot to do initially) through the conduit they ran when the house was built. Sure, I could have done it, but the builder wouldn't let me run the conduit so I had to pay these fuckers to do it. And I'll be damned if I'm paying for them to do a half-assed job. So, instead I waited 2 months for them to come back out and pull a string through a tube out of spite.
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Jan 13, 2018 20:52
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Grassy Knowles posted:"I'm never going to need to add another hardwired device" is never true, source: literally everyone ever I have enough switches in other rooms, this is literally for the tv only.
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Jan 14, 2018 00:51
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So since it seemed like it would serve my purposes, I foolishly order the TP-LINK Archer C5 from the OP without actually asking if the OP was in fact still up to date, since it was last updated two years ago. Considering it will be replacing an old att combination modem/router, and my internet will still only be 100 megabits (up from 24), it should still have comparatively better signal and be able to push as much bandwidth as we are going to get right? I'm sure it isn't the best now, but it isn't going to be bad right? Honestly considering I ordered it on the twelfth and Amazon is saying it hasn't even shipped yet, should I be worried it won't be here for when my cable gets installed on the 19? I can probably just cancel it and get something from Best Buy if it comes to it. thechosenone fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Jan 14, 2018 |
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Jan 14, 2018 15:43
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thechosenone posted:So since it seemed like it would serve my purposes, I foolishly order the TP-LINK Archer C5 from the OP without actually asking if the OP was in fact still up to date, since it was last updated two years ago. Considering it will be replacing an old att combination modem/router, and my internet will still only be 100 megabits (up from 24), it should still have comparatively better signal and be able to push as much bandwidth as we are going to get right? I'm sure it isn't the best now, but it isn't going to be bad right? OP was updated 8 days ago. You should be good. None of us can answer questions about your amazon delivery speed, only amazon can.
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Jan 14, 2018 16:40
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Rexxed posted:OP was updated 8 days ago. You should be good. None of us can answer questions about your amazon delivery speed, only amazon can. Ah, didn't think to check the actual edit date.
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Jan 14, 2018 16:55
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:THAT'S what it was. Thanks for the reminder. Holy gently caress. Finding wall plates/covers/inserts is an enormous loving pain in the rear end. My options are to mix and match brands and hope it works, or spend $20/outlet + keystones. Still looking for a decent 4-port insert for those decorative outlet covers...
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Jan 15, 2018 01:16
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https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32614175865.html ? Edit: Or https://m.ebay.com/itm/DECORA-KEYSTONE-JACK-1-2-3-4-6-PORT-MODULAR-WALL-INSERTS-COVER-PLATE-WHITE-/270792559262 Thanks Ants fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Jan 15, 2018 |
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Jan 15, 2018 01:27
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Holy gently caress. Finding wall plates/covers/inserts is an enormous loving pain in the rear end. My options are to mix and match brands and hope it works, or spend $20/outlet + keystones. https://www.monoprice.com/category/adapters-switches-and-splitters/wall-plates-and-keystones I have never not found one I needed. A lot of the times they have a ready made plate that will have everything you want if youre willing to occasionally accept extras, and the rest of the time the modular stuff is sufficient.
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Jan 15, 2018 03:07
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Thanks Ants posted:https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32614175865.html ? Yoooooo why did I not think of Aliexpress or ebay? I finally found those same ones on Amazon for like $2.61 but I'm gonna stock up on those for future jobs. M_Gargantua posted:https://www.monoprice.com/category/adapters-switches-and-splitters/wall-plates-and-keystones The problem is that the wife really wants these faceplates: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I0ICEIY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1FJ9LRJDN8ZOY&psc=1 Which means I'm limited to these inserts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062NBXDC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3ONFTWS4FHJKT&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XXO2X6O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 Oh well... I guess they're just pricey. Even Graybar doesn't have good deals on them.
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Jan 15, 2018 04:29
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I don’t get it. Why use decora trim plates for keystone single gang? I could understand requiring decora format for double gang boxes but there’s no justification for a single box with a single plate Also here is a six port decora keystone: AllSmartLife® QuickPort Decora Wall Plate Insert for 6-Port Keystone Jack - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017H46MEO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eAcxAbT42ZY4T CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Jan 15, 2018 |
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Jan 15, 2018 04:51
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CrazyLittle posted:I don’t get it. Why use decora trim plates for keystone single gang? Because the almighty wife said so. Personally I don't really care what is holding the keystones in place, as long as it's holding the keystones in place. But, to her aesthetics are important and she likes the way the decora plates look  Since y'all have been so helpful in helping me with wall plates, I might as well ask about keystones. I usually just pick up Allen Tel or whatever a job specifies from Graybar but I'm fresh out of leftovers and have to go buy some to complete the house. Ideally I'd like 4 different colors, but I'm willing to just suck it up and do all one color plus labels if it's significantly cheaper. What do you all recommend?
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Jan 15, 2018 18:53
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Ask you wife what colors are acceptable, since the aesthetics matter so much more to her than to you. Labeling is something I'd consider non-optional no matter what color scheme you use for the keystones. Regarding wall plates, I'm going to use angled ones next time I have to run drops.
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Jan 15, 2018 19:02
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SamDabbers posted:Ask you wife what colors are acceptable, since the aesthetics matter so much more to her than to you. Labeling is something I'd consider non-optional no matter what color scheme you use for the keystones. She says "white." So it looks like we might just be going with a single color. I'd like blue/green for the 2-port drops and that plus white/red for the 4 port. I'll be able to do whatever I want in the basement when it gets finished, but I don't think that's going to be any time soon, except for the office I'll be putting in so that's really just one of each. I don't have to label the faceplates. Everything is going to be labeled at the patch panels, and each wire will be labeled. Every drop is gonna follow the same schema so even if nothing were labeled, it would still be easy to identify. Anywho, I guess I'm looking for a lot of white keystones. These seem like a good price buy they do not look very sturdy. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pack-Lo...5.c100005.m1851 ...and at $.80/each, It's almost not even worth risking it over getting the CableMatters ones from Amazon for $.30 more with guaranteed next day delivery. I actually have a few of those Leviton plates. I like them. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Jan 15, 2018 |
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Jan 15, 2018 19:36
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I quite like the tooless modules with the little butterfly type catches on the back.
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Jan 15, 2018 20:11
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I complained about this problem in this thread about a month ago, glad to see TP-Link figured it out. https://www.reddit.com/r/Android/comments/7qk7rq/tplink_engineer_explains_wifi_disconnections_tied/ TLDR: Google cast devices have been flooding the network with multicast packets in certain situations. A router memory leak issue causes the device to act up resulting in connectivity issues.
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Jan 16, 2018 14:54
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I was just posting about that on another thread. I've got 4 Google Homes and three Shield TVs which have chromecast buil in and I haven't had any wifi problems. I'm wondering if that's because I have a ubiquiti access point...
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Jan 16, 2018 15:02
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A "router memory leak issue" seems like it'd be specific to a particular firmware, so it's not surprising that a different brand doesn't exhibit the same problem.
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Jan 16, 2018 16:24
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SamDabbers posted:A "router memory leak issue" seems like it'd be specific to a particular firmware, so it's not surprising that a different brand doesn't exhibit the same problem. I would agree with you but apparently it's not just one brand having the problem.
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Jan 16, 2018 16:51
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Thermopyle posted:I would agree with you but apparently it's not just one brand having the problem. You'd be surprised how lovely most routers are.
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Jan 16, 2018 18:10
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EngineerJoe posted:You'd be surprised how lovely most routers are. No, I'm definitely aware, and that's the reason I have an ERL as my router and previous to that used different routers running OpenWRT/DD-WRT/Tomato for like 10 years or something. Routers are hilariously bad.
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Jan 16, 2018 18:24
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EngineerJoe posted:You'd be surprised how lovely most routers are. If a tiny embedded device like Chromecast can DoS their routers, I think it tells more about the badness of their routers...
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Jan 17, 2018 11:10
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I finally set up an Edgerouter X SFP and two UAP-AC-Lites and holy poo poo I have working wifi in the whole house again, instead of random pockets!
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Jan 17, 2018 16:41
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Kaboobi posted:I finally set up an Edgerouter X SFP and two UAP-AC-Lites and holy poo poo I have working wifi in the whole house again, instead of random pockets! It's nice, right? I'm done with basic consumer hardware forever
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Jan 17, 2018 16:50
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Kaboobi posted:I finally set up an Edgerouter X SFP and two UAP-AC-Lites and holy poo poo I have working wifi in the whole house again, instead of random pockets! I've got a UAP AC Pro and it covers the house pretty adequately, but obviously it could be a little faster if you're not standing in line of sight from it. I'm considering getting another AP, but I'm a little worried about having 2 of them so close together. Not as much for the handoff, which Ubiquiti stuff seems to do pretty seamlessly, but more for the interference between them. Also, I'm not so sure you could even get far enough away from any AP in my house to actually warrant a hand off from one to the other so it might be a moot point. I kind of wish I had gone with 3 AC-lite instead
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Jan 17, 2018 18:54
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EngineerJoe posted:I complained about this problem in this thread about a month ago, glad to see TP-Link figured it out. My Nexus Player has done this twice now... When it drops into the chromecast screensaver. I only discovered it by installing wireshark on one of my desktops. It was flooding the network with MDNS broadcasts. It was bad enough to send the CPU usage on my router to 100% and cause it to start dropping connections. One of the recent updates a few months ago stopped it.
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Jan 17, 2018 19:08
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Armacham posted:It's nice, right? I'm done with basic consumer hardware forever I'm still using my old router as my access point but even just moving to Unifi for routing and switching fixed so many niggling issues I had. I eagerly await a new wifi standard or breakdown to have an excuse to finish the job with some UAP(s)
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Jan 17, 2018 19:10
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I need to get a new router since an ethernet port died on mine. I'm tempted to go edgerouter and UAP(s) but I know that if I do that I won't be able to use UAP(s) to talk to a wireless repeater in the garage/guest house 65-80 meters away. It's me the guy who hasn't wanted to spend time running cat 5e or 6 outside between buildings that are probably close enough to do that. Don't really want to mount one of those nano point to point things either due to line of sight being slightly an issue (Oak Tree, location of router and stuff in home). I dunno I'm mainly just being lazy about it.
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Jan 17, 2018 19:18
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I'm a little worried about having 2 of them so close together. Not as much for the handoff, which Ubiquiti stuff seems to do pretty seamlessly, but more for the interference between them. When you add another AP, turn down the transmit power on both of them to encourage your devices to roam faster.
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Jan 17, 2018 19:37
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havenwaters posted:I need to get a new router since an ethernet port died on mine. I'm tempted to go edgerouter and UAP(s) but I know that if I do that I won't be able to use UAP(s) to talk to a wireless repeater in the garage/guest house 65-80 meters away. I'm confused by this - if you have a device that connects to a Wi-Fi network and rebroadcasts it then that will still work if you change your APs to Unifi models.
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Jan 17, 2018 19:39
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CrazyLittle posted:When you add another AP, turn down the transmit power on both of them to encourage your devices to roam faster. I would have to have 3 devices and set them up to be pretty much line of sight and that would be perfect. (again, wish I had done AC-lite) If I split my 3 story house between 2 AP's, I feel like the 1st floor is going to lose out big time. I have to say that currently the setup isn't bad by any stretch, but I know that it could be so much faster if my wireless devices were getting more than 75% signal.
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Jan 17, 2018 19:45
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