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Hypnolobster posted:Anybody need some mortises? I can make mortises in like 30 seconds, because I got this thing functioning. needs more stepper motors
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Jan 14, 2018 05:02
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Can't decide on my top flush vs overhang: 
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Jan 14, 2018 05:09
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Huxley posted:I legit love those legs as bedpost knobs. Clever. Yeah, it was either $7 home depot legs or an actual lathe turned thing designed for that for 10x as much. I think they're called finials? It works.
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Jan 14, 2018 06:40
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Huxley posted:Can't decide on my top flush vs overhang: Overhang
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Jan 14, 2018 08:30
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Does anyone here have experience with steam bending and similar? I have a 15 mm thin board of sapele, with about 3 mm of bow along 750 mm length. Planing it down to flat would leave it thinner than I'd be comfortable with for my purpose, so I want to attempt flattening it with water and a hot iron. Does that sound realistic?
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Jan 14, 2018 14:53
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nielsm posted:Does anyone here have experience with steam bending and similar? What's your application for it? On a board that thin with that small a bow, it can easily be pulled flat depending on the application... Also, sounds like the Ryobi cordless nailer is a winner, I'll be getting it soon. Meow Meow Meow fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Jan 14, 2018 |
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Jan 14, 2018 17:11
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Meow Meow Meow posted:What's your application for it? On a board that thin with that small a bow, it can easily be pulled flat depending on the application... A floating lamp shade:  This is seen from the wall. I plan on mounting the board with a few dowels glued into the sapele board, fitting into holes in the support piece. So there isn't anything that can really pull it straight, but having that bow will probably make it more difficult to fit the dowel mount.
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Jan 14, 2018 17:53
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Just attaching it to the batten under the light will probably pull it straight right?
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Jan 14, 2018 18:11
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cakesmith handyman posted:Overhang 
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Jan 14, 2018 18:22
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cakesmith handyman posted:Just attaching it to the batten under the light will probably pull it straight right? I think he wants it removable so that he can change the light build and service parts. How about a small frame on the backside to serve the same purpose of straightening but still have little visual impact.
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Jan 14, 2018 20:22
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Today I learned that trying to cut box joints with a router into side grain (so the router bit is cutting apart fibers instead of just shortening them) does not work very well. I'm trying to do an open-topped box where the ends of the box are taller than the sides (it's going to be a sort-of basket for holding sauces and so on), so the ends had the grain oriented 90 degrees from normal, and when I went to cut the finger joints I did some fairly substantial damage to the boards. I'll probably fix it by tongue-and-grooving some properly-oriented boards onto the tall part, but that just made this project considerably more complex.
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Jan 15, 2018 01:47
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We bought a Neato D80 vacumming robot. The thing does a good job of maintaining a decent level of cleanliness, but it kept getting stuck under the coffee table. The bottom of the table was just the right height that the robot could enter, but not escape. We put some books under the legs as a temporary solution, but the table got bumped off of them pretty easily. So I built some riser blocks for the legs. I built two sets. This set was "finished" with Briwax and put in place because my wife wanted a solution in place before the end of the weekend. I built another set using the less-blemished cuts of wood and will be putting a nicer, more permanent coat of finish on them. The Briwax looks pretty good IMO. It looks better in person than it does in the picture. The stuff goes on so hassle-free. It allowed the project to go from start to (sort-of) finished in a couple hours, including the initial step of clearing junk off the table saw.  Here are some other recent projects: A dog kennel/end table I made to keep my laptop, remotes, drink, etc. away from our one-year old daughter. The sides are are assembled with half-lap joints. The corners are mitered with 4x4 posts inside for strength. The top has baby's first edge joint glue-up and my first poorly-executed attempt at breadboard ends. This was also the first thing I ever finished with polyurethane. I just used the dimensions of the old wire kennel as the interior dimensions of this replacement. I need to build another one for our other dog. I'll probably skip the breadboard ends because end grain doesn't bother me as much as the way the fit of the breadboard ends change with humidity.  I built six "kitchen helper" step stools for friends and family with small children. I did three different finishes. These are based on an Ana White design, but I did half-laps instead of pocket holes. I also changed the design of the top handles and put roundovers on everything for safety. These were baby's first attempt at spraying polyurethane. The initial finish was awful, but some finishing wax and #0000 steel wool fixed the problem. The little platforms that go into those little ladder parts on the sides aren't installed in this photo for some reason.  One of two jaunty little step stools I made for white elephant Christmas gifts. Each was made from one 2x4. They turned out really stable and sturdy, but the platform was kind of small for me. The recipients were smaller individuals, and they both have gotten a lot of use out of them. I made these the day before Christmas, so all they got was two coats of Danish oil. These are pretty faithful to Steve Ramsey's design. All half-laps.  I liked the way the little stools were put together, but I wanted something bigger, and I didn't want to deal with the hassles of the angles, so I made this stool for myself. I put Minwax "Hickory" gel stain on it, but I hated the way it turned out. I was too lazy to sand it back on all the inside edges, so I sanded just the outside parts and applied my new favorite finish for pine, Varathane "Golden Pecan" gel stain. I think the two-tone makes it look unique, but my wife isn't a huge fan. In any case, it is very strong, pretty lightweight, and handy to have around. Again, all half-laps. 
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Jan 15, 2018 14:58
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PBCrunch posted:We bought a Neato D80 vacumming robot. The thing does a good job of maintaining a decent level of cleanliness, but it kept getting stuck under the coffee table. The bottom of the table was just the right height that the robot could enter, but not escape. We put some books under the legs as a temporary solution, but the table got bumped off of them pretty easily. Loving all of that -- super practical and nicely finished! Those stools in particular look like a fun project.
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Jan 15, 2018 16:47
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Atticus_1354 posted:I think he wants it removable so that he can change the light build and service parts. How about a small frame on the backside to serve the same purpose of straightening but still have little visual impact. Another straight board glued to the backside, just stiff in the axis the board is bowed along? That actually sounds very reasonable. I could even use that as the method of mounting instead of the dowels, screws between the stiffening part and the "wall backet". It will leave two screws visible seen from below, but that shouldn't be a real problem.
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Jan 15, 2018 17:08
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I finally had enough of the random lumber leaned up against the wall so I built a lumber rack using the JayBates design. In hindsight I could have ran out and bought the Portamate versions from Lowes, especially since they are on sale for $20, but with the space available, I wanted to make some short versions up high and in the corner, and extend the rest a bit longer than the premade versions. I'm really happy with it so far. Progress shot. Unfortunately I forgot to take a before photo, but this is just with the 2x4's mounted to the wall.  And after with the lumber loaded up and everything back on the wall. 
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Jan 15, 2018 17:40
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I picked up a slightly older woodworking book at a used bookstore for all the jigs it detailed in there. One interesting bit was the drill press jigs. I've been interested in metalworking and have always seen to not mill with a drill press because the bearings and taper of the chuck aren't made for it (wrong tool for the job and I get that)... so seeing jigs for sanding drums and lathing with a drill press, why would this be any different? I have no interest in lathing on my press but sanding drums maybe because having a spindle sander taking up more space isn't very appealing. Is it a don't do it often and you'll be alright kind of deal?
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Jan 16, 2018 14:36
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xwing posted:I picked up a slightly older woodworking book at a used bookstore for all the jigs it detailed in there. One interesting bit was the drill press jigs. I've been interested in metalworking and have always seen to not mill with a drill press because the bearings and taper of the chuck aren't made for it (wrong tool for the job and I get that)... so seeing jigs for sanding drums and lathing with a drill press, why would this be any different? Yeah, comparatively low loads on the spindle/bearings/taper. It's not a good idea still, but it's probably fine.
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Jan 16, 2018 15:48
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Anyone here have any experience with japanese / laminated chisels? To me it makes a lot of sense to have a thin layer of hard steel on the cutting edge and then whatever soft steel behind that, but it doesn't seem like manufacturers do that anymore. Is it just because  or is there some other reason?
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Jan 17, 2018 02:15
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Maybe it has to do with the forces involved, you may not want a weld line running parallel to the necessary movement.
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Jan 17, 2018 04:28
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The japanese lamination method has worked for hundred of years, I doubt the method is faulty. It's much more likely labor costs.
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Jan 17, 2018 05:29
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Or material costs coming down.
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Jan 17, 2018 05:51
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Laminated chisels and plane blades wasn't a japanese thing. They are the ones who still stick to the tradition though. But the lamination of blades was common in the west for centuries. Consider high carbon tool steel was very valuable back then, much more expensive, labour costs were lower as was mentioned. It was more economical to forge weld iron and tool steel in order to save on precious tool steel. Coincidentally this produces a very good tool with a malleable body and hard edge and is easier to sharpen. I have an old Billnäs axe head produced in this way, been meaning to make a shaft for it for a while. It was also used on knives and other tools. Forged welded knife blades are considered the best of the best here.
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Jan 17, 2018 07:21
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Corky Romanovsky posted:Or material costs coming down. It's a combination of the material cost difference being less than the labor cost difference, which is implied by saying cost of labor.
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Jan 17, 2018 07:22
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Also remember that the reason the traditional Japanese forging is so meticulous (katanas et al had the same hard-soft construction) is because, historically, their steel wasn't that great so they had no choice but to go through all the trouble, otherwise everything would immediately break. Contemporary Western steel was better so didn't require as much care, and modern steel can do it all without any of the fuss.
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Jan 17, 2018 14:52
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I have been looking for reasonably-priced used thickness planer for over a year, and nothing ever seems to pop up. Is there a big difference between something like this Wen planer and the DeWalt 734 unit that seems to be the most popular option?
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Jan 17, 2018 18:18
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PBCrunch posted:I have been looking for reasonably-priced used thickness planer for over a year, and nothing ever seems to pop up. Is there a big difference between something like this Wen planer and the DeWalt 734 unit that seems to be the most popular option? I know very little about planers, but I happened to watch this video the other day: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9osTTcVz5c0 He compares a DeWalt 735 to a cheap Mastercraft, but I assume a lot of his points still stand. It sounds like the cheaper planer can be fine if you spend time adjusting and maybe sharpening it, while the DeWalt works better out of the box, but not 3 times better.
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Jan 17, 2018 19:26
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nielsm posted:Another straight board glued to the backside, just stiff in the axis the board is bowed along? That actually sounds very reasonable. I could even use that as the method of mounting instead of the dowels, screws between the stiffening part and the "wall backet". It will leave two screws visible seen from below, but that shouldn't be a real problem. Yeah. And like you said as long as you plan for it you can make it a design element instead of something bodged on last minute.
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Jan 17, 2018 19:34
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Atticus_1354 posted:Woodworking Megathread: as long as you plan for it you can make it a design element instead of something bodged on new thread title
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Jan 17, 2018 20:46
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Mr. Mambold posted:new thread title No accidents, only happy little design elements.
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Jan 17, 2018 20:54
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"Antiquing"
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Jan 17, 2018 21:03
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Huxley posted:No accidents, only happy little design elements. See that happy little tree? We're gonna cut it, mill it, sticker it properly, then come back in a year and design and build a cutting board
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Jan 17, 2018 21:26
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Re:planners Super budget brands like Wen are generally made as cheaply as possible, do be sure to find all the reviews you can. The DeWalt 735 with an extra set of blades and infeed/outfeed tables often goes on sale on Amazon for $500 around Christmas. I have this planer and can say I think it is better than any other "benchtop" option and honestly I'd take it over anything short of a 12" combo jointer planer by grizzly/jet/rikon/Laguna/hammer, all of which are 4x-8x the cost (but do include a wide jointer for that cost) I'm not saying the 735 is the better value in your situation, that's for you to decide, but I can safely say I feel no regret about my purchase, and no need to upgrade until I get a bigger shop (which would require moving).
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Jan 17, 2018 23:59
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My recommendation is as always for a combo machine, for 800-ish I could definitely score a 2nd hand 40cm combo machine with cast iron tables if I had time and patience to keep a look out. My small 8" combo machine works too well though for that to be anything but a luxury, so I've passed over several by now.
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Jan 18, 2018 07:48
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His Divine Shadow posted:My recommendation is as always for a combo machine, for 800-ish I could definitely score a 2nd hand 40cm combo machine with cast iron tables if I had time and patience to keep a look out. My small 8" combo machine works too well though for that to be anything but a luxury, so I've passed over several by now. Yes, if you are in Europe combo machines are much much much more prevalent at a much wider range of sizes. In the US you have the 10" INCA (which I used to own) and nothing else until the mid oughts when the grizzly/jet hit the market. You will find the occasional Felder or minimax but even used and 10-15 years old those machines are rare enough in the US to demand a premium.
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Jan 18, 2018 13:16
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The DeWalt 735 has definitely been my best tool purchase. No real issues yet, blades have lasted me about 2 years and are just getting to replacement time. Even without an in/out feed table the snipe is minimal and easily avoided with a piece of scrap. I've never tried any other planers to be fair, but the 735 has been perfect. I'd happily buy one again if this ever broke on me.
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Jan 18, 2018 17:16
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Should I snag some of these floorboards? They're like 3 1-inch layers glued together as flooring for the office building I'm in. they've got nails and construction adhesive but I can trim that up I figure. I asked the guys working on it and they said it was cool as long as I did it when they weren't around, and I couldn't sue them when I stepped on a nail or whatever.
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Jan 18, 2018 18:14
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Personally I'd take everything I could fit in the car, but that's just me.
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Jan 18, 2018 18:27
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Those are amazing. I've never seen anything like that. Leave no board behind.
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Jan 18, 2018 18:41
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I've been thinking over a design for a staircase and I think I have my requirements set, but I'd like to get an idea of how difficult it would be to implement. - Cut stringer - No nosing, square step edges - Two wood materials, one darker for the treads, another lighter (probably painted white) for the risers - Tread material flows down the edge of the stringer like this:  - Vertical strips of the tread material visible on the left and right of the riser face - Horizontal strip of the tread material visible on the top of the riser faces - Horizontal strip of the riser material visible on the front of the tread tops - Tread and edging all one piece How hosed am I? Edit: Sorry my perspective sucks but something like this: 
Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Jan 18, 2018 |
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Jan 18, 2018 19:29
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How anal are you about edges meeting up? Because any imperfection will be noticeable and impossible to fix. I'd need to see it mocked up or rendered to see how it really comes across but that's personal taste anyway.
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Jan 18, 2018 20:01
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