|
I remembered my specific issue with the Netgear, which is that it can't do baby jumbo frames and the Vigor 130 can. This might not be relevant to you at all.
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2018 21:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 15:16 |
|
|
skipdogg posted:Start with the basics. If you can pull good speeds wired to the gateway, you know that piece is working fine. Wireless is a bitch to troubleshoot though. What's the house like? Newer construction or older? The house was built in 2017, and is two-story without an attic or basement. If I can do it well and paint it to match the baseboards, I might be able to run one point to point ethernet cable just inside the house along the baseboard and down the stairs that would solve the worst of my problems. I'm disappointed to hear that my wifi woes seem to be unique to my situation and not characteristic of the 5268ac. I'm going to keep working to fix this, because it's been really disappointing for the couple months I've been here.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2018 21:26
|
|
|
Carpet posted:VDSL's 40-80Mb FTTC, depending on package. Currently only on 6Mb ADSL but am considering upgrading. Might get the Draytek if it'll be future proof then, but don't think I'm at any risk of going over 100Mb anytime soon! Have you considered a solution from our friends at TP-LINK? Looks like £30 (on sale) for a TD-W9970, which is ADSL2+/VDSL2, 2.4GHz b/g/n. If your wireless needs are more than "trash garbage," their 2.4GHz/5GHz DSL units seem to start about £64.78.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2018 21:37
|
|
|
Twerk from Home posted:The house was built in 2017, and is two-story without an attic or basement. If I can do it well and paint it to match the baseboards, I might be able to run one point to point ethernet cable just inside the house along the baseboard and down the stairs that would solve the worst of my problems. What about using powerline adapters?
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2018 21:43
|
|
|
Rakeris posted:What about using powerline adapters? I've got an AV2000 kit that has a really hard time doing any better than 50mbps, and usually does lower. I've tested it with a variety of devices on both ends and just think that the circuit jump is hard for it. Almost all the circuits in this house have AFCI, which I know can mess with transmission, and it's also having to jump from a breaker panel to a subpanel in order to get from one floor to another. I feel like I've got a lot of small things that add up to a tough-to-cover house. It's also really long and skinny, and my neighbors house walls are 6 feet from my walls and they have lots of WAPs too.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2018 21:44
|
|
|
Earl of Lavender posted:Have you considered a solution from our friends at TP-LINK? Looks like £30 (on sale) for a TD-W9970, which is ADSL2+/VDSL2, 2.4GHz b/g/n. If your wireless needs are more than "trash garbage," their 2.4GHz/5GHz DSL units seem to start about £64.78. Interesting, that would cost me less, but I'm not sure the second one is officially available in the UK - looks like a continental Europe/Australia model. The closest one looks to be the Archer VR900 v2 for £95?
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2018 22:32
|
|
|
Carpet posted:Interesting, that would cost me less, but I'm not sure the second one is officially available in the UK - looks like a continental Europe/Australia model. The closest one looks to be the Archer VR900 v2 for £95? Whoops, yeah, the VR200 doesn't appear on TP-LINK's UK site, but the VR400 does - £60 on sale at Amazon?
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2018 23:06
|
|
|
What's a good transmit power to set a secondary WAP that I only want devices in one room to connect to? 40? 30? Thanks for all the free help you guys have been giving me.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2018 00:20
|
|
|
thiazi posted:I've ordered two UAP-AC-LITES and I'm trying to figure out best places to locate them to cover my house. Any opinions on whether I should do one per floor centrally, or do one on right side and one on left side of the house (or a combination)? I realize this will depend building to building, but general guidelines or successes would be helpful. It will be much easier to run cabling if I can do a left/right split on the second floor as I have already got cables pulled up into the attic. Depends on where it gets used most honestly. I'd suggest putting it in a place that has line of sight to the most places, or most frequently used places. Then again, I'd be willing to sacrifice not getting AC speeds in the guest bedroom (that I never enter) in exchange for getting AC speeds in 75% of the rest of the floor. Armacham posted:ER-X is on a good sale at Newegg right now for anyone looking. Linked to a buddy. Good catch. Too bad the sale on UAP-Pro's just ended.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2018 00:22
|
|
|
Twerk from Home posted:The house was built in 2017, and is two-story without an attic or basement. If I can do it well and paint it to match the baseboards, I might be able to run one point to point ethernet cable just inside the house along the baseboard and down the stairs that would solve the worst of my problems. You can always run an Ethernet on the outside of the house. It's not ideal but if you get some outside rated cable and paint it to match the house it shouldn't be too noticeable. No worse than the hack satellite dish jobs I see installed around me. If you have an interior wall in the same place on the top and bottom floors, it's pretty easy to drop a cable between floors in the wall cavity as well. Another thought, if the place is wired for cable you could try some MoCA or HPNA adapters. Not ideal, but another option. MoCA 2.0 looks like it'll get you 600Mbit, and there seems to be some fancy new bonded adapters that promise 1Gbps. https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0 Not cheap, but could be worth it if they work as advertised.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2018 01:08
|
|
|
skipdogg posted:Another thought, if the place is wired for cable you could try some MoCA or HPNA adapters. Not ideal, but another option. MoCA 2.0 looks like it'll get you 600Mbit, and there seems to be some fancy new bonded adapters that promise 1Gbps. I've got three of those in my house and iperf3 shows that I'm really only getting about 350mbps, off coax that predates our buying the house in 2003. I'm happy enough with them.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2018 01:56
|
|
|
Weirdly my Archer C7 occasionally will stop allowing connections to the wifi and require a power down/reboot, and my newish Acer notebook will take the wireless newtwork down completely. ANybody else have this problem? From some research the former problem might be related to frequency of DHCP lease renewal for whatever reason, and the latter a chipset conflict between the laptop and the router itself. Does any of this make sense?
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2018 04:31
|
|
|
Bilirubin posted:Weirdly my Archer C7 occasionally will stop allowing connections to the wifi and require a power down/reboot, and my newish Acer notebook will take the wireless newtwork down completely. ANybody else have this problem? From some research the former problem might be related to frequency of DHCP lease renewal for whatever reason, and the latter a chipset conflict between the laptop and the router itself. Does any of this make sense? Yes, after dealing with this for a month or so, I spent an hour reading about potential solutions on the internet, concluded that nothing fixed it definitively and it wasn't worth my time to try and fix it with the intermittent nature of the problem. Bought an ER-X and an AC Lite, spent 20 minutes setting them up, spent 2 minutes on craigslist seeing that there are multiple stale $40 listings for C7s, and then threw it in my "to donate" pile instead. Done.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2018 05:47
|
|
|
Earl of Lavender posted:Whoops, yeah, the VR200 doesn't appear on TP-LINK's UK site, but the VR400 does - £60 on sale at Amazon? Thanks, I might just get that as it'll save me some money. The Ubiquiti kit, though nice and flash, probably isn't worth when I'll just have the one AP.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2018 13:58
|
|
|
Kreez posted:Yes, after dealing with this for a month or so, I spent an hour reading about potential solutions on the internet, concluded that nothing fixed it definitively and it wasn't worth my time to try and fix it with the intermittent nature of the problem. Bought an ER-X and an AC Lite, spent 20 minutes setting them up, spent 2 minutes on craigslist seeing that there are multiple stale $40 listings for C7s, and then threw it in my "to donate" pile instead. Done. same lol
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2018 17:03
|
|
|
Thanks for all the advice people, I've ordered the TP-Link VR400 now. Now I just need to work out how much it would cost/if it's worth it to replace the internal phone wiring in this rental. Before the router issues it was causing me problems due to a rather convoluted setup. ADSL connection was fine when connected directly to the master socket, but not to the socket in the living room. The socket in the living room is also on the wrong side of french windows, so someone has previously put in an extension cable like this one, adding maybe 7M. Did a bit of reading up earlier and unscrewed the faceplates and worked out the wiring setup:  (not sure what it's like in the US, but here it's all 2-pair wiring, though the 3rd is the bell wire and the 4th isn't used) Looks like in the bedroom an extension slave socket is used as per this site and the wiring is doubled up on the IDCs there, which I think is legit*, but it does mean my router is right at the end of all this wiring. *"In a series circuit, two cables may enter the socket box and each terminal will have two inner cores connected, each core being inserted individually"
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2018 22:52
|
|
|
Chaining the sockets together like that is fine since you're connected at the end of the chain. If you plugged the router into the bedroom socket then you'd find that the un-terminated living room end would pick up interference - though DSL is designed to work with reasonably poo poo wiring so whether that would cause any problems is debatable. If you give a toss then I'd take the bedroom socket off and gel-crimp the wires together (so blue to blue, blue/white to blue/white), and put a blanking plate where the phone socket used to be - nobody uses corded telephones any more so they won't miss it. If they are actually solid orange and green then the pair's been split which will be destroying your DSL signal. Then change the extension lead for a twisted-pair one.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2018 23:07
|
|
|
Nah, they're not solid colour cables, just how I drew the diagram - they are the proper blue/white and orange/white.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2018 00:05
|
|
|
If the two connected wires are blue and orange then the pair's been split and it would be worth fixing that. Only connect wires to terminals 2 and 5.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2018 00:58
|
|
|
No they aren't split, just using two totally different colours for the diagram. This is the bedroom socket wiring - you can see how it's doubled up with the wiring from the master socket, and the wiring going to the living room socket. https://drive.google.com/file/d/115mZKGAiw00w1u4DJgRFOqwvY338CRu9/view Any good resources on how to replace home network/telephone wiring? How do people work out what type of wall/cabling conduit they have without taking off the plaster? (Or is that how it's done?) Carpet fucked around with this message at 12:28 on Jan 24, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2018 12:18
|
|
|
You don't change in-wall stuff. It does look like the pairs have been split though - 2 and 5 are the actual line, 3 is the bell wire. 2 and 5 should be connected to the same pair - usually blue and white/blue.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2018 12:39
|
|
|
Carpet posted:No they aren't split, just using two totally different colours for the diagram. You look at the ends.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2018 12:47
|
|
|
Maybe I'm being dense, but it looks to me like the two orange/white wires are punched into 5, with blue/whites in 3, and white/blues in 2? edit: oh I see what you mean by pair now How do people lay new cat6 etc cabling then?
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2018 12:50
|
|
|
Carpet posted:Maybe I'm being dense, but it looks to me like the two orange/white wires are punched into 5, with blue/whites in 3, and white/blues in 2? Pull it through conduits.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2018 12:53
|
|
|
Yeah I have zero experience with this sort of stuff and everything is new to me, so apologies if I'm asking basic questions. From some googling, it looks like the 'back box' has one knockout removed which has some plastic piping going out, or might just be a grommet. I'll assume that leads to a proper conduit. And it looks like one can use a cable tester for phone cabling same as network cabling (I have used those at work). I might remove the "rubble" later to try and get a better idea if that piping goes any further or if it's just a grommet.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2018 13:55
|
|
|
This is a bit of a networking/linux question. I purchased an Dell R710 to do some heavy computations. This is also the first time I've ever had to deal with multiple NICs on a system. My setup is a EdgeRouterX connected to a unmanaged TP-Link 16 switch and right now with a single cable connected to the R710. I'm currently running into some issues where the server will be connect to say github to pull something and it will pull at very slow speeds, Kb/s. If I stop it and try again later it will pull at full connection speed. Where should I look to begin diagnosing issues? I've done the usual stuff, changed cables, etc. But nothing seems to be working. Since all 4 ports are currently initialized could that be causing issues? From my understanding, if I wanted to do bonding of all 4 NICs I would need to upgrade my switch to deal with it or can I just enable bonding on the server?
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2018 14:22
|
|
|
Carpet posted:Yeah I have zero experience with this sort of stuff and everything is new to me, so apologies if I'm asking basic questions. I dunno how it is in the US or how it was done in the oldern days, but that looks like the end of a conduit, installations like that don't need a plug or anything really. It's just a plastic tube basically.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2018 14:24
|
|
|
Carpet posted:Yeah I have zero experience with this sort of stuff and everything is new to me, so apologies if I'm asking basic questions. What are you trying to do? That cable is buried in a plastered wall, you can't really do anything with it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2018 14:57
|
|
|
I had issues when the router was connected to the extension, so for the last few months it's been connected to the master socket. I tried it again in the extension last night and it's working fine, but then it also worked fine for a couple of months after I moved (last April). I spoke to the landlord at the time, but they seemed to think it wasn't their problem, so if I get the problems again when connected to the extension, I was thinking of having a sparky replace the wiring.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2018 16:14
|
|
|
Carpet posted:I had issues when the router was connected to the extension, so for the last few months it's been connected to the master socket. I tried it again in the extension last night and it's working fine, but then it also worked fine for a couple of months after I moved (last April). Be sure you ok that with the landlord.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2018 16:17
|
|
|
I don't think you need to replace the wiring, you just need to connect the wires to the right place. The cables that you see emerging into that back box will be clipped to the wall, capped with a strip of plastic and then plastered over. You aren't going to be able to replace them without having to do plastering and decorating afterwards.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2018 16:27
|
|
|
Twerk from Home posted:What's a good transmit power to set a secondary WAP that I only want devices in one room to connect to? 40? 30? Thanks for all the free help you guys have been giving me. Since no one else answered: "it depends". In reality, you should keep it at the default (and save your money that you'll spend on aspirin/booze), and as long as it's on a different frequency, you'll be fine - your gear will use the closest AP (strongest signal) to them* But if you're really trying to tweak your wifi settings so you have tweak both APs so that the remote/far AP isn't stronger that the local/near AP. You do that by measuring the signal level on your device (ie: phone - get a wifi scanner app) for both APs and start lowering each side until you've got a mutual signal level on both APs that works for your site. *- the user device has final say in which AP they associate, so might stay associated with a slightly weaker signal if that's what they were initially connected to. (sometimes called roaming aggressiveness).
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2018 19:41
|
|
|
Is there a recommended book for mastering pfSense over a couple of weekends? I've got it routing my home network and my devices are interconnecting and accessing the internet just fine, but anything harder than that like port forwarding and setting up vlans and separate subnets and stuff just leaves me frustrated. I respect how fully featured it is and I want to gain some kind of proficiency with it. Edit: I've found a PDF of this book. Will give it a try at the weekend. Mellifluenza fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Jan 24, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2018 23:34
|
|
|
Well, one of the pfSense devs recently posted this:quote:So, gentle readers(*), what are your ideas? Which was then followed by almost everyone saying "go gently caress yourself" and threatening to jump to opnsense So perhaps you’d instead care to learn opnsense?
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2018 02:00
|
|
|
That’s unfortunate. I liked pfSense.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2018 04:18
|
|
|
Jesus. Yeah, not the least bit upset about getting away from distros like that and into an ER-X.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2018 05:28
|
|
|
Does pfSense provide anything more than a UI to pf?
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2018 07:05
|
|
|
bobfather posted:Well, one of the pfSense devs recently posted this: I don't understand how that makes any difference to me as a home user, running pfSense on one of those AliExpress i3 boxes. I paid for and built the hardware box myself and then loaded pfSense on it myself, not bought from some shady "all in one" preinstalled solution from eBay. I'm just interested in getting my head around many of the options on pfSense and achieving a level of use where I can feel comfortable NATing, opening specific ports and channels beetwen different devices and having a couple of vlans at home.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2018 07:36
|
|
|
bobfather posted:Well, one of the pfSense devs recently posted this: Can I get some context? What he's saying doesn't seem terribly unreasonable just from that post...
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2018 07:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 15:16 |
|
|
VostokProgram posted:Can I get some context? What he's saying doesn't seem terribly unreasonable just from that post... My take is people get really pissy about being charged even $1 for something.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2018 08:17
|
|
