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Motronic posted:I wouldn't try working on my only source of residential heat in the winter for the first time without someone to help who knows what's up. Yeah I agree, and in addition, there is the very real risk of fire even if you do know what you're doing.... Usually in a confined space you can't easily back away from.
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Jan 18, 2018 22:35
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angryrobots posted:Yeah I agree, and in addition, there is the very real risk of fire even if you do know what you're doing.... Usually in a confined space you can't easily back away from. All good points! Just making sure it wasn't like, "unplug this component, slot this one in, done!" Thanks everyone!
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Jan 18, 2018 23:26
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n.. posted:I have a Noritz gas tankless water heater (don't have the model number handy, but it's a smaller one for an 1100sf home built in 2011).
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Jan 19, 2018 02:39
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Is there a guide out there for doing concrete in a small pond? Looking to follow the curvature of the existing pond and it's not straight edges. I know I'm going to need support wiring and all, but I'm not finding a good guide on how to made concrete on curved surfaces. There's basically no way to do this with forms.
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Jan 21, 2018 01:06
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Previous owner of the house lived here for 20 years and evidently never wanted any coax cables run through the attic. When we moved in I had directv fish the wires through the walls (the coax was running down the corners in each room previously), and over the past few days I have gone through and removed all the extraneous wiring on the outside of the house. There are two long runs that still need to go across the back of the house. Is it acceptable to have the coax run above/across the top of the gutters? There was one run up there like that previously and that would be a quick fix to hide the wire. I’d like to eventually get up in the attic and run it through there but that’s not in the cards immediately.
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Jan 21, 2018 01:26
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Gothmog1065 posted:Is there a guide out there for doing concrete in a small pond? Looking to follow the curvature of the existing pond and it's not straight edges. I know I'm going to need support wiring and all, but I'm not finding a good guide on how to made concrete on curved surfaces. There's basically no way to do this with forms. Do you live somewhere that gets a real winter? Because if so you'll have to engineer for frost heave, which basically means a lot of extra digging. Also I'm seeing quite a few step-by-step articles and videos on concrete pond building that I'm sure you saw too... If you're asking how to slap concrete over the existing pond as-is, I just don't know how well that's going to hold up.
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Jan 21, 2018 02:36
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angryrobots posted:Do you live somewhere that gets a real winter? Because if so you'll have to engineer for frost heave, which basically means a lot of extra digging. Well this winter was "real". Many single digit nights (NC is where I'm at). Basically I'm just gonna tell the wife there's no easy way to do what she wants, it's not just slapping some concrete in the pit and calling it a day
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Jan 21, 2018 03:17
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Where can I buy washers for rigid foam insulation? My local Home Depot doesn't carry anything that looks suitable and the seller on Amazon wants over $10 shipping for 100 of the drat things.
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Jan 22, 2018 06:47
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TheBananaKing posted:Where can I buy washers for rigid foam insulation? My local Home Depot doesn't carry anything that looks suitable and the seller on Amazon wants over $10 shipping for 100 of the drat things. They sell these https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite-12-x-1-1-2-in-Plastic-Round-Cap-Roofing-Nails-1-lb-Pack-112PRCAP1/100118738 which worked fine for my 1" rigid foam install, but I don't think they had a longer version on the shelf.
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Jan 22, 2018 15:03
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TheBananaKing posted:Where can I buy washers for rigid foam insulation? My local Home Depot doesn't carry anything that looks suitable and the seller on Amazon wants over $10 shipping for 100 of the drat things. Why bother with fasteners at all? I did my whole basement with a few tubes of this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL300-10-fl-oz-Foamboard-VOC-Adhesive-1421941/202020476
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Jan 22, 2018 15:18
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This is not exactly relevant to the thread, but I figure someone here might know. Is there a name for the segmented arm design used in stuff like a Gorillapod mount? And if so, is it possible to just buy an arm like that with a screw mount on each side or something equally generic?
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Jan 22, 2018 19:02
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Qwijib0 posted:They sell these Yeah I saw those at my local store but they aren't long enough... I've got 2" foam so I need something around 2.5". eddiewalker posted:Why bother with fasteners at all? I did my whole basement with a few tubes of this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL300-10-fl-oz-Foamboard-VOC-Adhesive-1421941/202020476 The fasteners are to hold the foam while the glue cures... That stuff takes like 20 minutes to set. There's no way I'm going to sit there and wait for 20 minutes as each piece gets set. Also this is going up between joists, so I'm working against gravity.
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Jan 22, 2018 19:38
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I have these big 8' long flourescent lights in my garage. One bulb is burned out, and another is buzzing. I don't really want to replace them because I have to put an 8' long lightbulb in my car. And I don't even know how to throw the old ones out. Just break them? It seems like a lot of spend to replace everything with reasonably sized fixtures. Any thoughts on using LED bulbs in these existing ones? Something like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FM773T6/
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Jan 22, 2018 21:18
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TheBananaKing posted:Yeah I saw those at my local store but they aren't long enough... I've got 2" foam so I need something around 2.5". Drywall screws. Seriously. They don't have washers on them, but the foam doesn't weigh enough to pull the screw through. They should be more than enough to it in place until the glue cures.
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Jan 22, 2018 21:40
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PremiumSupport posted:Drywall screws. Yeah this - just be gentle with your drill. Set it to '1' on the slip clutch and don't drive them "home" just "pressed against the foam". Probably one per several sqft of foam and maybe on in the middle if it sags.
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Jan 22, 2018 22:00
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FogHelmut posted:I have these big 8' long flourescent lights in my garage. One bulb is burned out, and another is buzzing. I don't really want to replace them because I have to put an 8' long lightbulb in my car. And I don't even know how to throw the old ones out. Just break them? Don't break them, they're under pressure and it makes a huge mess. Find a dumpster. I like the LED tube replacements, and they're a lot cheaper on eBay. Just realize you'll have to rewire the fixtures, to take the ballast out of the circuit and put straight 120v across the pins of the light.
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Jan 22, 2018 22:35
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armorer posted:This is not exactly relevant to the thread, but I figure someone here might know. Is there a name for the segmented arm design used in stuff like a Gorillapod mount? And if so, is it possible to just buy an arm like that with a screw mount on each side or something equally generic? I have no idea but now I'm really curious what you're building? Some sort of creepy-looking Tim Burton coat rack?
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Jan 22, 2018 22:49
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armorer posted:This is not exactly relevant to the thread, but I figure someone here might know. Is there a name for the segmented arm design used in stuff like a Gorillapod mount? And if so, is it possible to just buy an arm like that with a screw mount on each side or something equally generic? You mean an octopus style tripod? Lots of companies make those, including ones with standard camera base threads on them. I think that thread size is 1/4-20?
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Jan 22, 2018 22:50
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kid sinister posted:You mean an octopus style tripod? Lots of companies make those, including ones with standard camera base threads on them. I think that thread size is 1/4-20? I just want a single arm that I can mount to plastic on one side and wood on the other.
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Jan 22, 2018 23:12
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TheBananaKing posted:Where can I buy washers for rigid foam insulation? My local Home Depot doesn't carry anything that looks suitable and the seller on Amazon wants over $10 shipping for 100 of the drat things. I used these for the 2" EPS I put in the attic https://www.menards.com/main/tools-...4722531&ipos=20 Menards also had the cheapest price by far on the foam.
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Jan 23, 2018 04:23
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We've had two over the range microwaves crap on us, so we've decided to just go with a proper hood range (we're going with Zephyr brand). But the thing is our old OTR microwaves simply plugged into an outlet located inside the top cabinet, while the range hoods we''ve been looking at all require a direct wired-in connection. I'm guessing that it's just a matter of buying a hood range power cord, like this one? Just asking because the loca stores in our area all sell brand-specific ones for Whirlpool and such, but I can't find any for Zephyr. Are these sold as generic, one-plug-works-for-all? melon cat fucked around with this message at 05:12 on Jan 23, 2018 |
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Jan 23, 2018 05:03
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melon cat posted:We've had two over the range microwaves crap on us, so we've decided to just go with a proper hood range (we're going with Zephyr brand). But the thing is our old OTR microwaves simply plugged into an outlet located inside the top cabinet, while the range hoods we''ve been looking at all require a direct wired-in connection. As long as your range hood says it's OK to use one. (Note the caveat on that cord you linked.) I picked a random hood as that has to be a pretty common changeout and this one at least is plug in: https://zephyronline.com/product/siena-pro-wall/
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Jan 23, 2018 05:14
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armorer posted:I just want a single arm that I can mount to plastic on one side and wood on the other. I saw this stuff in film school for long flex mounts https://www.freestylephoto.biz/2896-Manfrotto-Flex-Arm-for-Super-Clamp Found this too https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HSU_H4t96s Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Jan 23, 2018 |
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Jan 23, 2018 05:18
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H110Hawk posted:As long as your range hood says it's OK to use one. (Note the caveat on that cord you linked.) I picked a random hood as that has to be a pretty common changeout and this one at least is plug in: There really doesn't seem to be that many hood ranges that plug into an outlet. So I'm really not sure what to do at this point- the over the range microwaves are just a gigantic pain in the rear end when they malfunction. melon cat fucked around with this message at 07:23 on Jan 23, 2018 |
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Jan 23, 2018 07:10
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Can you change the socket face for a fixed outlet?
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Jan 23, 2018 07:17
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melon cat posted:Unfortunately I have no way of knowing if my range hood says it's okay to use one. And yeah, that cord I linked does look like it's for very specific models. And the range that you linked won't work with [urlhttps://imgur.com/lmgqERF]our under-the-cabinet setup[/url]. Can’t you just remove the outlet and wire the hood directly or through a junction box?
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Jan 23, 2018 07:19
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cakesmith handyman posted:Can you change the socket face for a fixed outlet? TheGreasyStrangler posted:Can’t you just remove the outlet and wire the hood directly or through a junction box? melon cat fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Jan 23, 2018 |
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Jan 23, 2018 07:27
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melon cat posted:Not sure what you mean by this- could you clarify for a wiring luddite like me? Whatever your local version of this is: https://www.ukelectricalsupplies.com/Click-Metal-Clad-13-Amp-Switched-Fused-Connection-Unit-with-Neon.htm Replaces your current socket, then you wire the new hood directly into it, there's a punch-out for the cable to come right out the face.
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Jan 23, 2018 12:13
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cakesmith handyman posted:Whatever your local version of this is: What is this  dang Brits!Do you have to put fused switches on all hardwired devices or something? There's really no exact comparison to this in the states, closest would be a fused disconnect switch which is very unnecessary in this case (and probably illegal to install inside a cabinet). I'll let one of the resident electricians answer the actual question... My NEC knowledge gets fuzzy with residential installations and I'm not sure what's proper as regards having exposed Romex inside that cabinet...
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Jan 23, 2018 13:28
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Uh, kind of yeah, why wouldn't you want each individual appliance fused at its fault current Vs hoping the house wiring takes the load before the breaker trips? Comedy answer: it's used to bridge ring mains together 
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Jan 23, 2018 13:31
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Wasabi the J posted:I saw this stuff in film school for long flex mounts This is infinite overkill for my purposes, but thanks. I think I might just tear the leg off a gorrilapod.
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Jan 23, 2018 13:34
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cakesmith handyman posted:Uh, kind of yeah, why wouldn't you want each individual appliance fused at its fault current Vs hoping the house wiring takes the load before the breaker trips? No I get it, that's just not used here. Being at the mercy of the small gauge wire inside a device has crossed my mind, but generally speaking, our methodology of protecting circuits to the wire size seems to work pretty well. ...That being said, everything is moving to AFCI so....
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Jan 23, 2018 13:45
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Doesn't the UK also have switches on every outlet? No trust in that country
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Jan 23, 2018 15:14
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angryrobots posted:Don't break them, they're under pressure and it makes a huge mess. Find a dumpster. Do NOT just find a dumpster. Fluorescent bulbs are considered hazardous waste. Call your local/county waste department or whatever private company hauls your trash and ask them how to dispose of them. If he/she don't want to bother with 8' long bulbs, they can just replace the fixtures with relatively inexpensive LED units. I recently bought this to replace a couple dying fluorescent fixtures in my basement: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HBT3BVM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Jan 23, 2018 |
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Jan 23, 2018 16:28
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I'm actually in the process right now of deciding which LED utility lights to buy. I want something that can be chained with some good slack and the Amazon prices kill what you pay from a big box but they aren't UL listed or anything and I was wondering if they could be hazardous at all.
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Jan 23, 2018 16:58
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DrBouvenstein posted:Do NOT just find a dumpster. Fluorescent bulbs are considered hazardous waste. Call your local/county waste department or whatever private company hauls your trash and ask them how to dispose of them. Oh yeah, you're right some states are very strict so watch that. At my local recycling center, they go in bulk waste (which on the handling end is all treated as HHW, apparently), or at least that's how I was directed.
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Jan 23, 2018 17:14
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The Dave posted:I'm actually in the process right now of deciding which LED utility lights to buy. I want something that can be chained with some good slack and the Amazon prices kill what you pay from a big box but they aren't UL listed or anything and I was wondering if they could be hazardous at all. The Costco Feit fixtures are universally praised. They carry them in stores seasonally, and even went on sale last month. It was worth borrowing my MIL’s card to buy 10 at like $20. You can get them year round online, but you have to buy in 2-packs and pay shipping.
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Jan 23, 2018 17:27
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armorer posted:I just want a single arm that I can mount to plastic on one side and wood on the other. The best I can think of is something like a flexible extension for a RAM mount, or just get a soft metal rod like aluminum.
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Jan 23, 2018 18:25
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On mobile so no link but search for Loc-line threaded connector. Not quite what you're looking for since its built for fluid transfer but segmented, lots of different sizes and fittings, fairly cheap and expandable.
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Jan 23, 2018 18:55
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Whoever built my house didn't really understand how to shed water properly. Here's a simple diagram of the top of the gable walls: Red is the roof deck. Green is a 2x4 (being used as super-cheap trim). Blue is siding. Grey is sheathing. There's no flashing, so the only thing preventing water from getting into the cracks between the various elements is paint. I let my paint go a bit too long, so now the trim's rotting in a few places. Moreover, the roof deck is only protected by end caps (no drip edge). I want all the 2x4s torn out (total around 50-60 linear feet) and replaced, with proper flashing and caulking so the problem won't recur. I also want a drip edge on the roof deck, which means popping off the (metal) end caps, putting the drip edge in, then replacing the end caps. This is all ladder and/or scaffolding work (two-story house), and the ground on one side of the house is uneven, so I didn't want to try to do it myself, so I solicited quotes from contractors. The quotes came back as $4500, $6900 and $9400. That's an incredible spread. Any gut instincts from y'all? Irritatingly, the $4500 quote is also from the company I'd otherwise be least-inclined to go with.
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Jan 24, 2018 17:28
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