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Looking for input here on some Hive Tyrant wings. I've been doing the skin as Seraphim Sepia over plain white, and the carapace as Emperor's Children/Carroburg Crimson/Fulgrim Pink, with the soft flesh areas such as the elbow joints and exposed muscles in Screamer Pink/Druchii Violet. I thought I would do the basic skin on the wings and maybe darken them up a little to set them apart from the "arm" of the wing, but with such a large and flat surface I've run into problems with pooling and tide marks as seen below. I slapped a single layer of base paints on to do some comparison shopping. Do I go with: A) Screamer Pink, to match the other soft membranes and exposed muscles; B) Cadian Fleshtone, which gives a smoother color but is also a color not seen anywhere else in the army color scheme; C) Attempt to somehow fix the pooling/tide mark problem and darken them up a little; D) Something else altogether? 
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Jan 25, 2018 20:34
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Doing the "I actually did something!" cross-posting marathon. Lookin' sharp, man.
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Jan 25, 2018 23:06
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PantsOptional posted:Looking for input here on some Hive Tyrant wings. I've been doing the skin as Seraphim Sepia over plain white, and the carapace as Emperor's Children/Carroburg Crimson/Fulgrim Pink, with the soft flesh areas such as the elbow joints and exposed muscles in Screamer Pink/Druchii Violet. I thought I would do the basic skin on the wings and maybe darken them up a little to set them apart from the "arm" of the wing, but with such a large and flat surface I've run into problems with pooling and tide marks as seen below. I slapped a single layer of base paints on to do some comparison shopping. Watch the Duncan painting video on Mortarion, they cover how to wash areas like wings there. Might give you some ideas on how to extend your colors on the tyrant wings.
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Jan 26, 2018 00:53
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I think my idea for my Fire Prism Lance was better than my execution skills: Are there any decent ways to help with freehanding spirals on a cylindrical surface? Also, what's/who makes a good white paint that doesn't "chalk up" when diluted? I'm using White Scar and even using Lahmian Medium instead of water to dilute creates a chalky texture.
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Jan 26, 2018 03:36
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I've never used it, but it might be worth trying Liquitex Ink! Titanium White as a thinning agent for white paint. I've used their other colors and the pigment count is insane.
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Jan 26, 2018 04:34
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Watch the Duncan painting video on Mortarion, they cover how to wash areas like wings there. Might give you some ideas on how to extend your colors on the tyrant wings. Is that the twitch channel? I tried watching one and it seems like the perfect thing to have on in the background while painting, but I got like 30 minutes in and I don't think they had actually given a single bit of painting advice yet. Not sure if it just takes a while to get into the swing of things or if there are videos that are more focused on that aspect - I definitely like watching learning through seeing stuff happen in real time vs. reading about it or looking at pictures.
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Jan 26, 2018 05:24
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Is that the twitch channel? I tried watching one and it seems like the perfect thing to have on in the background while painting, but I got like 30 minutes in and I don't think they had actually given a single bit of painting advice yet. Not sure if it just takes a while to get into the swing of things or if there are videos that are more focused on that aspect - I definitely like watching learning through seeing stuff happen in real time vs. reading about it or looking at pictures. Look for warhammer TV on YouTube, not twitch. They've got dedicated, condensed painting tutorials that are some of the best out there.
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Jan 26, 2018 05:27
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Booley posted:Look for warhammer TV on YouTube, not twitch. They've got dedicated, condensed painting tutorials that are some of the best out there. Seconding this, when I started digging thru my bits after getting them out of storage a couple of months back, I also gave the Warhammer TV Youtube channel a look, and Duncan and co. are definitely responsible for helping renew my interest in painting up stuff for 40k. Really good tutorials and the best part is they're not afraid to display some humor now and again (especially on the painting hangouts they do on Twitch).
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Jan 26, 2018 10:00
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Ibblebibble posted:Are there any decent ways to help with freehanding spirals on a cylindrical surface? Also, what's/who makes a good white paint that doesn't "chalk up" when diluted? I'm using White Scar and even using Lahmian Medium instead of water to dilute creates a chalky texture. They all do to a certain extent, but Vallejo Ivory should be replacing all your whites.
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Jan 26, 2018 15:35
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I've had good luck with Reaper Master Series Pure White. Can't say I've had it ever chalk up on me.
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Jan 26, 2018 16:20
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I use Vallejo Off-white or GW Ulthuan Grey for pretty much all my whites. I haven't had an issue with either chalking up. Vallejo Off-white is more ivory tinted, Ulthuan Grey is a little blue/grey tinted.
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Jan 26, 2018 16:28
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Speaking of, is there a common brick and mortar where you can go to buy paints? I know there's the GW store, but I imagine they only sell Citadel and I don't really want to go that route.
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Jan 26, 2018 16:35
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Mikey Purp posted:Speaking of, is there a common brick and mortar where you can go to buy paints? I know there's the GW store, but I imagine they only sell Citadel and I don't really want to go that route. Most hobby shops will have something. Whether it's the brand/color you want is another story. Near me a local shop that mostly deals with MTG/Yugioh also has GW and Army Painter stuff. A local Hobby Town USA also has Vallejo and Tamiya stuff.
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Jan 26, 2018 16:41
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Mikey Purp posted:Speaking of, is there a common brick and mortar where you can go to buy paints? I know there's the GW store, but I imagine they only sell Citadel and I don't really want to go that route. Yeah, check your local stores, and if you don't like the selection, the Internet sells every color of every brand.
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Jan 26, 2018 16:42
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Also, there's a good chance your local nerd store can order paints in for you.
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Jan 26, 2018 18:11
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Always check with your FLGS, they should be able to order in most things, I can get Tamiya at a collectables/card gaming shop in my town but I have to go one town over to get my Vallejo stuff, or order it online and wait for it to show. Citadel paints aren't bad, they're just really thick and come in very crap pots. if they thinned them out to 17ml instead of 12 and stuck em in dropper bottles i'd be a happy man.
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Jan 26, 2018 18:34
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melonfish posted:Citadel paints aren't bad, they're just really thick and come in very crap pots.
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Jan 26, 2018 19:04
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Floppychop posted:I use Vallejo Off-white or GW Ulthuan Grey for pretty much all my whites. I haven't had an issue with either chalking up. I use Ulthuan Grey for my whites too, it's just that this was a highlight so I broke out the White Scar.
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Jan 26, 2018 20:14
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berzerkmonkey posted:It's easy to do that yourself - granted it will cost you a bit more money for the dropper bottles, but, personally, I think Citadel makes good paint and it's worth it for some colors. Way ahead of you, they're far more usable in droppers! Didn't cost all that much for the pots of you buy them in bulk.
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Jan 27, 2018 00:59
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If anyone wants a cheap source of dropper bottles: https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=90225 They sell smaller ones as well.
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Jan 27, 2018 01:59
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:If anyone wants a cheap source of dropper bottles: https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=90225 Can confirm, I order the 15ml bottles they have here and transferred paint and keep them on hand for water, flow aid, custom medium mixes, etc.
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Jan 27, 2018 02:09
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In other news: https://twitter.com/CeFs5PCPUfG8laA/status/955944133436219392
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Jan 27, 2018 04:03
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I don't like that at all.
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Jan 27, 2018 04:32
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I've used these dropper bottles on Amazon which are cheaper. 20ml since I was transferring larger P3 paint pots over.
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Jan 27, 2018 04:37
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You guys have a preferred tape for blocking off parts for airbrushing?
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Jan 27, 2018 19:00
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I hear Teflon tape recommended for that kind of stuff. e: whoops misread, any low tack painters tape will do for straight lines, while Tamiya does this plastic based tape that is meant to be good for curves.
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Jan 27, 2018 19:46
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Tamiya Masking tape. 6mm and 18mm.
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Jan 27, 2018 20:15
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I tried silly putty after seeing it posted here and it works pretty well too.
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Jan 27, 2018 21:59
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Eifert Posting posted:You guys have a preferred tape for blocking off parts for airbrushing? Tamiya masking tape and blu-tak. Vallejo also do a liquid mask but it can be a pain to get off.
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Jan 27, 2018 22:18
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Whereabouts do folks get their brushes from? I'm aware modelling brushes are probably overpriced but I notice a pretty big difference between a sable brush I got from a FLGS and brushes I picked up from the craft store which I assume are nylon, so is there a place to get sable brushes cheap?
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Jan 27, 2018 22:26
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I've had a bit of painted stuff just lying around lately and only just got around to taking pictures recently. First, High Marshal Helbrecht, an absolute joy of a model to paint:     A space dildo, because teleport homers are actually kinda useful now:  The crashed Aquila Lander from Battle for Macragge that I've had forever:   And a mob of Free Company Militia for my Empire mans: 
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Jan 27, 2018 23:56
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spectralent posted:Whereabouts do folks get their brushes from? I'm aware modelling brushes are probably overpriced but I notice a pretty big difference between a sable brush I got from a FLGS and brushes I picked up from the craft store which I assume are nylon, so is there a place to get sable brushes cheap? You really get what you pay for - GW actually do pretty decent brushes these days which are not *too* pricey. Their 'Artificer' level brushes are sable and are priced similarly to a Windsor and Newton Series 7 (top of the line). I don't know if the quality is as good, but if the GW Drybrush is anything to go by, they are at least better than mid-range art store brushes. I don't think it's worth getting 'cheap' brushes, at least in the UK. Brushes are like GBP3-5 for a good nylon, and maybe GBP7-12 for a sable? It's twice the price but I've used my current Series 7s for about 4 years now. I bought extras initially thinking they would wear out like the nylons, but I've needed to use them. One tip to save money is don't buy loads of sable brushes. You really only need the fine tip and control for details. A Size 1 or Size 0 is more than enough 90-95% of the time, and if you want, get a Size 000/0000 for superfine details like eyes. For bigger brushes or drybrushes you don't need the fine control, so a dodgy tip isn't going to matter as much, and you can go for a good quality nylon (for blocking out areas or applying lots of wash) or get a tough pig hair brush (GW's drybrushes) to abuse and drybrush. Edit: To actually answer your question, I got my series 7s from an art supply shop. Tindalls or Hobbycraft in the UK carry them.
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Jan 28, 2018 00:39
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Being in the US, I tend to buy my Windsor and Newton Series 7 brushes from shops in England. They're about $12 each. It might take a week or two to get here, but after hearing about people getting shady looking brushes off Amazon, I just go there, and they're usually cheaper in the long run anyways. So long as you make sure you never get paint beyond halfway up the bristles and wash it out if you do, they should last you years. Don't be scared to use them, just watch how you load them and they'll just work. I love my Size 1 and use it for 90% of my painting. It's so so good. Paint off the tips, not the entire brush. Philthy fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Jan 28, 2018 |
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Jan 28, 2018 00:47
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darnon posted:I've used these dropper bottles on Amazon which are cheaper. 20ml since I was transferring larger P3 paint pots over. Excellent. How about funnel? Or are you using like a medicine dropper or something to pull the paint out of the citadel pots?
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Jan 28, 2018 01:58
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Brushes on Amazon are definitely a big gamble. I ordered a Raphael brush that came with a little plastic ferrule cap and was really snugly packed in folded cardboard and it showed up in perfect shape, but I also ordered a Da Vinci brush that arrived just today in an outrageously large box (seriously it's like a 12x10x4 box) with no plastic cap and a single strip of bubble wrap in it, and it showed up splayed to poo poo with the bristles bent at a 90 degree angle from slamming into the side of the box over and over in transit. They are sending me another replacement for free, but I'm guessing it's going to show up in a similar condition. I'm going to see if it's salvageable with some brush conditioner or something, but I kinda doubt it. Both of them were fulfilled through Amazon and I didn't see any info on a third-party seller, so I have no idea why there was such a difference. I've also seen a lot of people complaining about getting fake / lovely Series 7 when buying through third parties, so if you've got a store nearby, definitely go see what they've got. Sadly the only one near me is a Michaels that only stocks lovely synthetic brushes.
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Jan 28, 2018 04:04
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In the US, Dick Blick is only slightly more expensive than Amazon for brushes, while having a huge selection and an excellent refund policy if you get a brush messed up in transit. They also have regular sales that put them below Amazon prices. They also have a huge range of mid (student) and low (scholastic) grade brushes, for all your less delicate needs.
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Jan 28, 2018 04:25
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always be closing posted:Excellent. How about funnel? Or are you using like a medicine dropper or something to pull the paint out of the citadel pots? I just happened to have a funnel around that worked, but there's a fair selection of mini funnels. The process I used for transferring the paint over was a few pages back here. Also if you only need 15ml bottles for Citadel paints these are pretty cheap.
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Jan 28, 2018 04:35
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Quick Cross Post:R0ckfish posted:I had less progress than normal this week due to busyness from school, but I got a tyrant done at least
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Jan 28, 2018 04:47
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Those nids are awesome. The only critique would be to somehow highlight the purple more to make the details pop.
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Jan 28, 2018 05:03
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Philthy posted:Those nids are awesome. The only critique would be to somehow highlight the purple more to make the details pop. I have messed around with that in the past, it gets kinda off looking in person if it is strong enough to look good on camera. Plus I am lazy and I don't want to spend even more time on the carapace.
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Jan 28, 2018 05:08
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