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Bucnasti posted:In the US, Dick Blick is only slightly more expensive than Amazon for brushes, while having a huge selection and an excellent refund policy if you get a brush messed up in transit. They also have regular sales that put them below Amazon prices. I will check them out, thanks! Prime's 2 day shipping was really tempting, but it turns out it's not that convenient if you have to wait on a replacement because your brush was packed by the incredible hulk.
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Jan 28, 2018 05:38
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I attended two airbrush classes at LVO today, basically I learned that I've been doing everything wrong and paying too much money for it all. Just some of the things I learned: As you thin your paints more, lower your air pressure to compensate. Painting over black primer gives you more value range to work with vs painting over white. Airbrush thinner and flow improver do different things, and thinner is just water+alcohol which is way cheaper to mix yourself than buy pre mixed. If you're spraying with the trigger pulled all the way back, your paint is too thick. GW glazes do amazing things when run through an airbrush.
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Jan 28, 2018 05:56
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I'm incredibly frustrated. I'm trying to paint some lighter colors (orange, light skintone) and I have no idea how to deal with paints of this consistency. They're weirdly chalky and if I water them down it just turns into a wash. I have no idea how to deal with paints like this, and I'm pretty sure it's just how the colors are because they're light colors.
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Jan 29, 2018 05:57
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Shake the hell out of the pots, and you could try thinning with medium instead of (or as well as) water.
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Jan 29, 2018 06:11
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Texmo posted:Shake the hell out of the pots, and you could try thinning with medium instead of (or as well as) water. Using a medium instead of water is a big one. Or thinning with a glaze. I actually brush paint with airbrush paints and it works pretty well.
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Jan 29, 2018 06:20
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Bucnasti posted:I attended two airbrush classes at LVO today, basically I learned that I've been doing everything wrong and paying too much money for it all. Mate, try Scale 75 inktensity if you want to block your brains out with colour.
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Jan 29, 2018 07:29
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mango sentinel posted:I'm incredibly frustrated. I'm trying to paint some lighter colors (orange, light skintone) and I have no idea how to deal with paints of this consistency. They're weirdly chalky and if I water them down it just turns into a wash. I have no idea how to deal with paints like this, and I'm pretty sure it's just how the colors are because they're light colors. The only way to deal with this is water them down to a wash, and then learn to suck out 80% of the water from the brush by paper towel. Muscle memory will get this process down quickly eventually. You will be doing many thin layers and just build up. Make sure the base you're painting them over already has a precolor down like brown or tan. Another trick is to mix a little Vallejo Ivory into the colors if you can handle the tint change and it'll make it smoove as butter. Philthy fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Jan 29, 2018 |
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Jan 29, 2018 16:58
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Bucnasti posted:
Please elaborate!
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Jan 29, 2018 18:52
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Washes or glazes through an airbrush are basically like oil filters- they modulate the color underneath. I used to think applying washes by brush and airbrush was the same, but it's not. An airbrush applies a more even coat with minimal pooling so it's more about shifting the color underneath (modulation) instead of shading (glopping a wash into your recesses with a brush). You can do this to shift the color of your basecoat in different ways. For example you can spray several different washes, randomly, over flat panels to give them some lifelike depth of color. Or you could use it achieve your basecoat- zenithal prime a model, do your highlights in white, and then hit it with filters to take it wherever direction you want. Experiment and see for yourself!
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Jan 29, 2018 20:08
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Anyone here use palette paper? I was looking at GW's version, and while I wouldn't pay for that since there are cheaper options, I was thinking it might be a better alternative to the plastic palette I'm currently using.
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Jan 29, 2018 21:52
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That's a lot of money for some parchment paper
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Jan 29, 2018 21:55
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Yeah, my wet pallet consists of a cheap-o piece of knockoff Tupperware that I bought because it had lunch meat inside, a sponge, and some parchment paper.
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Jan 29, 2018 22:02
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Iron Crowned posted:Yeah, my wet pallet consists of a cheap-o piece of knockoff Tupperware that I bought because it had lunch meat inside, a sponge, and some parchment paper. Even if that meat isn't expired by now, the paint has probably rendered it inedible. 
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Jan 29, 2018 22:08
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BULBASAUR posted:That's a lot of money for some parchment paper It's actually a plasticized paper - very smooth, and isn't at all porous. Definitely would not work in a wet palette.
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Jan 29, 2018 22:20
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Finished up my second model, a halfling rogue from the Reaper Learn to Paint kit.      While I feel like I nailed the cloth in the first model of the wizard, this one started off pretty good but I don't think I nailed it in the end. It definitely takes some time to get a feel for where the shadows and highlights go on a piece of cloth that isn't simply draping straight down like a robe. All in all though, I am happy with the results and am nearly finished with the last model in this kit. Over the weekend, I went to my local hobby shop and picked up some white krylon primer, and a few vallejo paints to round out my basic kit. I also scored a 6 pack of FW acrylic inks for $8 and some matte medium and flow aid at 40% off, so now I can make a lifetime's worth of wash  I think I'm going to skip the other reaper kit and attempt to paint my brute from Gloomhaven next. We'll see how that goes. Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Jan 29, 2018 |
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Jan 29, 2018 22:33
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(Crossposting from the other paint thredd) I have also painted some things in January: 30k Abba Zabba is done, going into the needs to be varnished pile.   Black Templar Contemptor still needs a left arm finished and some transfers, but I'm pleased with how he's coming along, despite a few glaring flaws.   I also knocked out a bunch of Steel Legion Mans, with like 40 left in the queue...   ...to include a few Company Commanders made from rando models I'd had laying around for far too long.  I've got enough metal Steel Legion that I'll never need more, and plan on using Death Korps models painted up in Steel Legion colors for when I expand and whatnot going forward.
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Jan 29, 2018 22:43
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berzerkmonkey posted:Anyone here use palette paper? I was looking at GW's version, and while I wouldn't pay for that since there are cheaper options, I was thinking it might be a better alternative to the plastic palette I'm currently using. Grab a Sta-Wet Palette, toss the paper it comes with, grab a roll of Reynolds Parchment paper. Enjoy use the paints for days, and being able to easily mix and blend together with the tip of your brush. Add little beads of water to pull from.
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Jan 29, 2018 23:42
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Mikey Purp posted:Finished up my second model, a halfling rogue from the Reaper Learn to Paint kit. Totally respectable stab for a second model, kudos on trying for the harsh hand-painted shadows/highlights. The gloves, boots, hair, and cape look pretty good! The skin is...kinda thick 'n chunky, and the face is terrifying. Both of those are pretty hard to nail though, so dont feel bad not nailing it on your second model! Also the face does have its own 'disturbed madman' charm. Bride of Scrunt
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Jan 29, 2018 23:51
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berzerkmonkey posted:Anyone here use palette paper? I was looking at GW's version, and while I wouldn't pay for that since there are cheaper options, I was thinking it might be a better alternative to the plastic palette I'm currently using. I use a wet palette sometimes but I always keep a pad of palette paper on hand to break out. I’ve been using it since high school for non miniature painting and it’s great. The GW version is overpriced but is very good. Best to just grab a huge pad of it from an art store.
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Jan 29, 2018 23:53
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Philthy posted:Grab a Sta-Wet Palette, toss the paper it comes with, grab a roll of Reynolds Parchment paper. I used the Sta-Wet paper for a while and hated it, turns out the pore are scaled for artist acrylics. Switched to Reynolds parchment paper and it's incredible. Makes a huge difference when brush painting.
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Jan 30, 2018 00:29
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Okay, so I am somewhat confused about Vallejo washes. I had one called Skin Wash, and it was very dark and very red and I never liked the way it came out. I was surprised to find a lot of people who said they liked it, but it turns out that's Flesh Wash. So there's a Game Ink line and a Game Color Wash line. Are the Game Inks actual inks, do they behave differently than the washes? The others are called stuff like "Game Ink - Blue", the "Skin Wash" one is the only Ink that has "Wash" in the name.
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Jan 30, 2018 00:46
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Iron Crowned posted:Yeah, my wet pallet consists of a cheap-o piece of knockoff Tupperware that I bought because it had lunch meat inside, a sponge, and some parchment paper. Mine's a a Warmachine blister pack, with the sponge still inside. The lid even closes over when it's not in use.
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Jan 30, 2018 00:56
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Partial Octopus posted:Please elaborate! Bulbasaur explained it pretty well. What the instructor did was prime a space marine black, hit it with a yellow base coat from the side, then a white highlight from the top, then sprayed the whole thing with GW red glaze(bloodletter?) and it turned into the most vibrant red with the flattest finish, perfectly highlighted and shadowed. I've brushed on washes to shade and modulate colors, but didn't know you could use the airbrush to only modulate color.
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Jan 30, 2018 01:01
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That GW stuff isn't meant to be a wet pallete, it's just a disposable plastic pallete essentially
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Jan 30, 2018 01:01
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Skarsnik posted:That GW stuff isn't meant to be a wet pallete, it's just a disposable plastic pallete essentially exactly. Whenever you're out painting somewhere and every other flat surface known to man is unavailable, GW to the rescue.
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Jan 30, 2018 02:43
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berzerkmonkey posted:Anyone here use palette paper? I was looking at GW's version, and while I wouldn't pay for that since there are cheaper options, I was thinking it might be a better alternative to the plastic palette I'm currently using. I do. Amazon has it in different sizes for a couple bucks. Jack Richeson Grey Matters Paper Palette, 12 by 16-Inch, 50 Sheets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DMMTJ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fd9BAbAXS3PE5 It has a color wheel on the inside of the cover as well.
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Jan 30, 2018 02:57
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Just so everyone knows 'modulating colour' is called glazing.
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Jan 30, 2018 06:50
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Skarsnik posted:That GW stuff isn't meant to be a wet pallete, it's just a disposable plastic pallete essentially Yup. I'm not into wet palettes - I used one for a while, but it didn't really offer anything that I needed, so I dropped it and went back to a standard palette. I don't need to keep three drops of Goblin green wet for days, you know? Zuul the Cat posted:I do. Amazon has it in different sizes for a couple bucks.
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Jan 30, 2018 15:07
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They're useful if you're doing color mixing and need the color consistent for an entire army, if you straight use pot colors though wet palettes wont offer too much.
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Jan 30, 2018 16:20
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I disagree. Using a wet palette has helped me greatly keep my paints thinned consistently.
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Jan 30, 2018 16:24
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Thin paints just flow all over the place on my wet palette. Shouldn't the semi-permeable paper mean that a given type of paint will always end up at a certain equilibrium concentration/dilution?
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Jan 30, 2018 16:44
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dexefiend posted:I disagree. Using a wet palette has helped me greatly keep my paints thinned consistently. I'm a bit of a slow painter, so the wet pallet allows me to use the same paint over several hours or days if needed.
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Jan 30, 2018 16:49
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Crosspost from the oath thread and the no pressure thread: These figures got half a paintjob 4 years ago when I started painting and I only managed to finish them now. And only because I'm selling the game. Electric Hobo posted:Oath complete!
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Jan 30, 2018 16:52
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Neurolimal posted:They're useful if you're doing color mixing and need the color consistent for an entire army, if you straight use pot colors though wet palettes wont offer too much. Right - and I don't do a lot of mixing. If I do, it's usually a pretty straight blend. Iron Crowned posted:I'm a bit of a slow painter, so the wet pallet allows me to use the same paint over several hours or days if needed.
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Jan 30, 2018 17:00
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Electric Hobo posted:Crosspost from the oath thread and the no pressure thread: Good work man, I have mine partially painted in my backlog and at that scale those are really impressive
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Jan 30, 2018 17:03
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HardCoil posted:Thin paints just flow all over the place on my wet palette. Shouldn't the semi-permeable paper mean that a given type of paint will always end up at a certain equilibrium concentration/dilution? From what I can tell the equilibrium is heavily affected by the amount of water. I was using a paper towel under parchment paper and it was fine, switched to a thicker kitchen sponge when I changed containers and that was pulling more water into the paint. Seems like it's a bit trial and error to figure out how much water to add to a sponge
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Jan 30, 2018 17:38
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So I'm looking to airbrush my wave serpent and I want to copy this paint job. I was hoping to get some tips on how to do the gradients. I imagine he primed the model white and built a gradient towards the ends of the wing tips in the front. But I'm not sure how he did the darker gradient around the engines. I'm not sure if he just sprayed a darker blue on top or if he used a different base coat underneath. Any advice would be helpful.
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Jan 30, 2018 18:03
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Short of going out and buying metallic blue paint, what techniques can I use to make the armor on my model look like it's blue metal? Kind of going for a cobalt look. I was thinking I would mix my base color with a little bit of silver and then do a silver wash over it and finish with a gloss varnish. I also have gold and bronze metallic paint, if that helps. E: This is what I'm hoping for: 
Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Jan 30, 2018 |
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Jan 30, 2018 18:55
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Partial Octopus posted:So I'm looking to airbrush my wave serpent and I want to copy this paint job. You should basically be able to achieve this with three colors. I would prime black or grey, not white. Then spray the mid tone as your base layer. Then just spray highlight around the edges and the shade in the surface transitions. The airbrush will give you those nice gradients as long as you spray lightly. From the pic, looks like he might have 2 separate highlights, one just goes further in. This is the sort of thing that an airbrush really excels at and is pretty easy to do.
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Jan 30, 2018 20:07
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Mikey Purp posted:Short of going out and buying metallic blue paint, what techniques can I use to make the armor on my model look like it's blue metal? Kind of going for a cobalt look. I was thinking I would mix my base color with a little bit of silver and then do a silver wash over it and finish with a gloss varnish. I also have gold and bronze metallic paint, if that helps. I would suggest a light silver basecoat with a couple coats of blue glaze on top of it, then make sure to do your highlights with a blue and then also a silver metallic. S.J. fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Jan 30, 2018 |
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Jan 30, 2018 20:11
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