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Testikles posted:a Scientific Atlanta 2100 modem Holy poo poo, that thing should be in a museum. I'm amazed someone still is using one. When the wireless stops working does the wired computer work? If so that points to the router crapping out. See if there's a firmware update for it. Anecdotally I've had poor luck with Dlink stuff in my life. I had an old router that would get too hot, as long as I had it upside down it was fine. Troubleshooting wifi is tough though. If I had to guess you have some wireless client that is just making the dlink poo poo itself, hard to troubleshoot, but I've seen chipset compatibility issues in the past. What are your wifi client devices? All of them. See if you can narrow it down to one that causes issues.
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Jan 29, 2018 00:19
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Testikles posted:I replaced the router four years ago
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Jan 29, 2018 04:01
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Protip... the keystones I bought do not work with the 4-port decora plates that I bought. The slim RJ-45 keystones worked like a dream. It looks like I'm gonna have a few leftovers since I bought twice as many keystones as I needed, but it's all good. I did just find out that these were a thing: https://www.amazon.com/LINKOMM-24-Port-Keystone-Management-Ethernet/dp/B0719N5117/ So I might have a solution for my leftovers after all.
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Jan 29, 2018 17:31
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:The slim RJ-45 keystones worked like a dream. The best part about these is you don't have to re-punch if you get the numbers mixed up at the switch/central side. You can just move the keystones around. I ended up re-numbering the panel at my house because a couple of the cables were mislabled.
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Jan 29, 2018 19:22
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CrazyLittle posted:The best part about these is you don't have to re-punch if you get the numbers mixed up at the switch/central side. You can just move the keystones around. I ended up re-numbering the panel at my house because a couple of the cables were mislabled. Exactly! I was thinking about just plunking everything in order on the panels and scooting them around once I install my cameras and WAPs so that they're in line with my numbering schema. For example, the nursery gets a camera or other hard wired device, I just scoot the rest of the devices on that panel down and keep it right next to the rest of the drops that run to the office :thumbs: Or say I want to move all the AP's together, and all the cameras together into one area of my patch panel, clip-snap-done! If i finally decide that I want to network and manage all my battery back-ups and don't want them mixed in with the rest of the network drops, I can segregate those off to a different panel location.
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Jan 29, 2018 19:29
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skipdogg posted:Holy poo poo, that thing should be in a museum. I'm amazed someone still is using one. It seems to switch. Some times it is just my laptop, other times it's all devices, and then there are the rarer times the internet is flat out. Likely it is a confluence of several problems. Is four years long enough to really merit replacing a router? CrazyLittle posted:Is it possible that your router's getting' owned by bots? Possible. Not sure how to find that out.
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Jan 29, 2018 23:42
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Testikles posted:Is four years long enough to really merit replacing a router? Yes. How much is your time worth? Is dealing with this issue for years on years worth not replacing both your modem and your router? We're talking well under $200 here, even if you wanted to splurge.
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Jan 29, 2018 23:45
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Testikles posted:It seems to switch. Some times it is just my laptop, other times it's all devices, and then there are the rarer times the internet is flat out. Likely it is a confluence of several problems. Is four years long enough to really merit replacing a router? I was talking about the Scientific Atlanta 2100 cable modem, that's a docsis 2.0 box that is probably 12 years old at this point. The Dlink router should be OK, like I mentioned, check for a firmware update.
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Jan 29, 2018 23:47
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I want my stuff to work when I am at home trying to forget about janitoring networks, so if I need to throw stuff out and buy new bits to make that dream closer to a reality then that's what I'm doing.
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Jan 29, 2018 23:52
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Need a little advice on running cables. I just bought a house. It is a ranch with a basement. Portions of the basement are unfinished which gives me direct access to many of the areas I want to run Ethernet cables. I would like to drill up through the basement into the wall above and then run the cables back to a central location. The problem is that the first floor walls I want to drill up into all seem to have a 10" joist running directly below where I want to drill up so I would have to drill through this big piece of wood and then into the wall. 1. I am not sure if drilling through the joist like that is good for the structural integrity of the joist and 2. It seems like a long way to drill and keep things straight. Any advice?
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Jan 30, 2018 19:13
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Is it a lump of wood or an engineered beam? Photos would be good but I don’t think drilling something that holds a wall up is a good idea.
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Jan 30, 2018 19:15
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Thanks Ants posted:Is it a lump of wood or an engineered beam? Photos would be good but I don’t think drilling something that holds a wall up is a good idea. Just cut the top off the engineering beams
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Jan 30, 2018 19:21
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Photex posted:Just cut the top off the engineering beams I mean it's not like we're talking about holding up a bathtub full of water here.
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Jan 30, 2018 19:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:I mean it's not like we're talking about holding up a bathtub full of water here. 
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Jan 30, 2018 20:56
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I'm copying files from my desktop to a laptop, all over ethernet. I'm only getting about 10Mbps average which sucks when I have to copy 400 gigs. Not only that, but when I do this, it sucks up all the bandwidth seemingly from my desktop and internet activity slows down to a crawl, other devices are fine. Setup is ISP modem-> C7 -> unmanaged gigabit switch -> desktop/laptop. I feel like theres gotta be a way to open the flood gates a little more than that.
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Jan 30, 2018 21:07
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codo27 posted:I'm copying files from my desktop to a laptop, all over ethernet. I'm only getting about 10Mbps average which sucks when I have to copy 400 gigs. Not only that, but when I do this, it sucks up all the bandwidth seemingly from my desktop and internet activity slows down to a crawl, other devices are fine. Setup is ISP modem-> C7 -> unmanaged gigabit switch -> desktop/laptop. I feel like theres gotta be a way to open the flood gates a little more than that. Yes, that sounds pretty bad. Are your desktop and laptop negotiating at 1 Gbps? Does rebooting the switch help? Can you replace both ethernet cables? [Edit: What is the CPU usage on both your laptop and desktop? Is antivirus acting up?]
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Jan 30, 2018 21:14
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codo27 posted:I'm copying files from my desktop to a laptop, all over ethernet. I'm only getting about 10Mbps average which sucks when I have to copy 400 gigs. Not only that, but when I do this, it sucks up all the bandwidth seemingly from my desktop and internet activity slows down to a crawl, other devices are fine. Setup is ISP modem-> C7 -> unmanaged gigabit switch -> desktop/laptop. I feel like theres gotta be a way to open the flood gates a little more than that. Sounds like one of the cables is borked
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Jan 30, 2018 21:14
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Computer is chugging along as it should be, nothing out of line there. My brother made the cable that goes from the router to the switch, but everything is fine except when I'm copying files across the network, reporting about 120mbps download when I check so I'll rule that one out, and the one from the switch to the desktop. I use these cables all the time on other devices which seem to work fine as well. The laptop is also showing normal usage and both are reporting upwards of 60mbps network usage. Not sure where to look next. Tried it over wifi and the speed dropped to about 6mbps, plugged it in again and it just dont wanna go over ~11
codo27 fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Jan 30, 2018 |
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Jan 30, 2018 21:23
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I love making recommendations to people on what to troubleshoot and just getting stream of conscious gobbly-gook back. I'm not trying to single you out or anything, but literally everyone does it and this is the part of the conversation where I usually just go:  guess it's germlins, the world may never know.
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Jan 30, 2018 21:39
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Thanks Ants posted:Is it a lump of wood or an engineered beam? Photos would be good but I don’t think drilling something that holds a wall up is a good idea. Here is a shot of the area. The dot circled in white is where I drilled a hole under the carpet and through the sub floor to make sure I was in the right spot. The wall space I want to be in is above the joist closest to the circle. Pretty much everything I read (with a few exceptions because Internet) said it wasn't a good idea to drill vertically through a joist. I guess I can try to go at an angle above the joist and see if I can get into the wall space that way?
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Jan 31, 2018 15:20
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Don't mess with the joist. Try to go right next to it and work under your flooring. You might be able to come out next to/under a baseboard
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Jan 31, 2018 15:25
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Hard to tell for sure from the photo, but are you sure that that joist spans the entire width of the space between the walls? You may be able to drill a half inch or so behind the joist and still drill into the bottom plate on your wall. edit: Seeing that pipe that presumably goes up into the wall on the right supports that idea. Also be careful if you're not positive where that pipe ends up going to Inept fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Jan 31, 2018 |
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Jan 31, 2018 15:33
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Much the same as you shouldn't get legal advice at random internet forums, you shouldn't get structural engineering advice at random internet forums. But if that is just a typical joist amongst a sea of typical joists, you can drill through it with a 1/2"-ish bit from side to side (through the 1 1/2" width), but DO NOT drill through it through it vertically! That being said, your walls are framed with lumber that is 3.5" or more wide, and the joist is only 1 1/2" wide, so....
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Jan 31, 2018 15:35
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codo27 posted:I'm copying files from my desktop to a laptop, all over ethernet. I'm only getting about 10Mbps average which sucks when I have to copy 400 gigs. Not only that, but when I do this, it sucks up all the bandwidth seemingly from my desktop and internet activity slows down to a crawl, other devices are fine. Setup is ISP modem-> C7 -> unmanaged gigabit switch -> desktop/laptop. I feel like theres gotta be a way to open the flood gates a little more than that. What kind of data are you copying? What OS to what OS? In the past I've run into very slow network performance when copy large amounts of small files on older operating systems. Without going deep into, it has to do with the network protocol being inefficient. Zipping up batches of small files into one large file is a work around. Without any more info about your environment and your data can't really help out much. Could be a poo poo cable, flaky switch, or an OS issue. 10Mbps is slow in any circumstance though so something is wrong.
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Jan 31, 2018 18:51
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Thanks everyone. The pipe goes up to a bathroom that is on the other side of the wall so I know where that goes. I will try drilling up along side the joist and seeing if I can get into the wall.
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Jan 31, 2018 22:09
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So I have the newest AirPort Extreme and 2 years ago we bought a house. The drop (and thus the AirPort Extreme) is in the basement and all is mostly fine but a few slow/dead spots on the main floor. The house is plaster and lathe. I’ve been reading around and apparently the new (ish) hot poo poo is mesh networks. Any advice or reasons I should go with something other than Wirecutter’s recommendation: Netgear Orbi Rbk50?
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Feb 1, 2018 06:09
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Read the support forum for the Orbi before you decide to buy. I’m not sure anything else is better. I use it in AP mode with a beefier router and I haven’t had any issues.
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Feb 1, 2018 06:29
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I'm looking into setting up a new network for my parents' vacation places up in Maine. Long story short, my dad bought a house in the middle of nowhere Maine a while ago (house 1), and then the lot next door a couple years later with a tiny shack on it. He then knocked down the shack and built a much bigger house by hand because he's a crazy person (house 2), but doesn't want to pay for a second internet connection because that's silly for a house he's only at during the weekends. He now mostly uses house 2, and any guests stay in house 1. Circled in red is where the network connection comes into house 1, and there's about 60 feet distance between house 1 and 2. There's also a path between them, with most of the trees gone with a clear line of sight between them.  When this was done a few years ago, I took up an old Linksys WRT router I had and set it up as a repeater in house 2, but it's not great, and barely good enough for streaming video. Now that mesh networking stuff is way cheaper and more reliable, I want to replace the whole system. A Nanostation locoM2 seems overkill for a distance of only about 60 feet, I'm thinking that the Unifi Mesh APs may be ideal. Has anyone used them/can vouch for the range of them? I don't mind spending a few hundred dollars for an edgerouter, cloudkey so I can log in remotely, and 2-3 of the mesh APs unless people have any other suggestions for an ideal setup that would give coverage to both houses?
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Feb 1, 2018 21:48
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I would suggest considering burying conduit and running a wire to the second house. You could actually look into burying fiber to reduce the potential for voltage differentials over such a distance but when I looked into that years back it wasn’t so easy.
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Feb 1, 2018 21:55
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Kaboobi posted:A Nanostation locoM2 seems overkill for a distance of only about 60 feet, I'm thinking that the Unifi Mesh APs may be ideal. Has anyone used them/can vouch for the range of them? I am trying to solve an overwhelmingly similar problem over a distance of about 50 feet, and was considering having a nanostation in client mode in the far building connected to an AP to provide wifi to the far building. The nanostation would just subscribe to the main house's internal wifi network. Basically a 2-radio extender.
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Feb 1, 2018 22:36
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If it's just unpaved ground between the two locations and it's your land then the distance is so short that I'd bury some flexible conduit and pull a fiber through it, preterminated.
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Feb 1, 2018 22:49
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Kaboobi posted:I'm looking into setting up a new network for my parents' vacation places up in Maine. Don't bother with the mesh APs, you'll likely have similar issues between the houses. Having to go through two exterior walls and a bunch of trees is not going to work too well, regardless of what type of AP you have on either side, if you put the APs indoors. If you're going to mount them outdoors, then you might as well get a couple nanostations. If it were me, I'd bury or string up some Cat5/6/etc between the houses. Direct bury Cat6 is a thing, but renting a trencher and laying some conduit would work too. I'd still use waterproof cable in the conduit, in case it fills with water. Put a switch and AP(s) in the second house, and everything in there should be good.
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Feb 1, 2018 22:50
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Kaboobi posted:
What do you mean they're overkill? They're cheap and do the job well...
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Feb 2, 2018 00:37
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Agreed. LocoM2s or some cheap $50 mikrotik P2P antennas.. OR just some outdoor direct burial cat 5. I think you will need to spend $100-150 total either way.
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Feb 2, 2018 00:51
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I've used indoor LocoM5s aimed at each other - one end in a garage and shooting through the metal garage door, other end in an office and shooting through the window. Worked flawlessly, but yes, you still needed a WAP at the far end.
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Feb 2, 2018 00:52
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I've had success in a somewhat similar situation using two of the long range model of Ubiquiti AP with one in "Wireless Uplink" mode to basically act as a bridge, but if I owned the property I'd be running either a conduit or some of that direct burial gel-filled Cat6.
Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Feb 2, 2018 |
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Feb 2, 2018 01:37
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Just have a point to point Wifi with any of the UBNT outdoor devices?
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Feb 2, 2018 09:59
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redeyes posted:Agreed. LocoM2s or some cheap $50 mikrotik P2P antennas.. OR just some outdoor direct burial cat 5. I think you will need to spend $100-150 total either way. Awesome, so if I didn't want to bury CAT5/6, I guess the best would have Nanostation in each house pointing at each other. I assume I can just plug a Unifi AP into the other end as an access point (with a POE adapter), or will I need to grab a switch for house 2 as well? Sorry for being an idiot about this, I'm just trying to make the hacked together setup I put in years ago not be garbage.
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Feb 2, 2018 23:01
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Yep plug a Unifi AP into the other end. I think you probably can just hook an AP to the other end of the PoE cable but I am not %100 sure. Either way a 8 port gigabit switch is $20 bux. Id get the switch for future expansion.
redeyes fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Feb 2, 2018 |
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Feb 2, 2018 23:15
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redeyes posted:Yep plug a Unifi AP into the other end. I think you probably can just hook an AP to the other end of the PoE cable but I am not %100 sure. Either way a 8 port gigabit switch is $20 bux. Id get the switch for future expansion. 8 port PoE switch is more, and if you go without PoE you'd need 2 injectors, right? Nanostation acs don't even come with an injector.
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Feb 2, 2018 23:21
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