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Lights, doors, fenders, bumpers, windows, interior trim, the hood, rear seats, hatch, a/c parts if they work...
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Jan 27, 2018 02:30
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jamal posted:Lights, doors, fenders, bumpers, windows, interior trim, the hood, rear seats, hatch, a/c parts if they work... Lights: headlights I'm moving to my new car, half the ones on the car are broken the other half I'm not bothering to pull Fenders are dinged up but not too bad, I tried to sell a nice set off my last one for 6 months and got no interest Bumpers are both fender bender material, one from being t-boned the other from the guardrail incident Windows are all kinda lovely and everyone in this state has 0 dollar deductible glass coverage, so I doubt they'd sell (and the junkyard has plenty in good shape) Interior trim is pretty ragged mostly Hood is a junkyard one repainted by some idiot, you can scrape the paint off with your fingernail. I have had another one for sale for months, no buyers Rear seats are gross Hatch is uh custom reconfigured by a guardrail AC parts maybe, but the yard is full of em here
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Jan 27, 2018 16:12
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Dash weed pocket
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Jan 27, 2018 23:08
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That's on my list already, it has a large number of heart stickers stuck to it though... Working clock moved to new Forester Also rear wiper motor, AC belt and tensioner (need to fix the AC... It's got nothing in it), pulled the stereo, and fixed the running issue the new one had!  All other sprockets were lined up with their marks. I wonder why it was throwing a cam sensor code and running like poo poo?   One of these cars has a future, and one of them does not. I'm going to be as forthcoming as I can be, Mr. Subaru. You're here because we need your scrap.
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Jan 27, 2018 23:45
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Might also be a good idea to do a drain/fill or two plus a filter change on the auto trans. I think 01 is the tail end of the delayed engagement issue, fresh fluid helps them last longer apparently. Those have an external spin-on filter, too.
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Jan 28, 2018 01:19
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Thanks, I'll have to do that I guess. It does seem to lurch into gear if that's what you're talking about.
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Jan 28, 2018 01:29
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They start my taking a long time going into gear from P or N. Something about a defective seal around the reverse actuator piston or something that causes low pressure. I've never fixed one, but apparently it can be done dropping the valve body in car.... A big cup of nope for me. This is the one case where magic poo poo in a bottle works, we had many customers cars barely engage into gear that worked great with Lucas TransX. It's a great stopgap until the next sucker buys it on craigslist
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Jan 28, 2018 02:44
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chrisgt posted:They start my taking a long time going into gear from P or N. Something about a defective seal around the reverse actuator piston or something that causes low pressure. I've never fixed one, but apparently it can be done dropping the valve body in car.... A big cup of nope for me. ive done the magic in a bottle for an 05 forester and it worked. it just swells the seal in the trans. Was delayed going from P to R
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Jan 29, 2018 16:32
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It seems to go into reverse fine but forward takes up to a couple seconds. It also seems to shift oddly on the highway sometimes. "Subaru 4EATs are more reliable than 5MTs, they said. It'll be fun, they said." I'm going to be rather cross if the rose tinted glasses were involved in those statements. loving Subarus
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Jan 30, 2018 23:11
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kastein posted:It seems to go into reverse fine but forward takes up to a couple seconds. It also seems to shift oddly on the highway sometimes. I believe I made that statement about gen 1 transmissions, and 02+ gen 2 transmissions Save the clutch and brake pedal out of the old forester and the transmission if good, it's an extremely easy swap.
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Jan 31, 2018 02:33
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The 4EAT in my 2001 would hesitate, then eventually developed a problem where it could only go in drive once a day. If you took it out of drive it wouldn't do it again for roughly 24 hours. Reverse worked fine though.
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Jan 31, 2018 04:32
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thebigcow posted:The 4EAT in my 2001 would hesitate, then eventually developed a problem where it could only go in drive once a day. If you took it out of drive it wouldn't do it again for roughly 24 hours. Reverse worked fine though. All of them between 99 and 01 do that, it's a fairly well documented issue.
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Jan 31, 2018 05:17
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Subaru only makes one good transmission.
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Jan 31, 2018 05:40
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jamal posted:Subaru only makes one good transmission. And wouldn't you know, that bastard Manuel got it!
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Jan 31, 2018 05:46
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jamal posted:Subaru only makes one good transmission. the CVT? 
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Jan 31, 2018 12:12
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chrisgt posted:I believe I made that statement about gen 1 transmissions, and 02+ gen 2 transmissions Yeah, everyone got loving specific as soon as I bought one. For the last 6 years it's been nonspecific "4eat is more reliable than 5mt, the non WRX 5mt blows up eventually". So. The problem is in the valve body, or the geartrain?
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Jan 31, 2018 13:43
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Turbo subarus only lead to pain and misfortune. Non-turbo subarus have this effect delayed slightly.
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Jan 31, 2018 15:42
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Adiabatic posted:Turbo subarus only lead to pain and misfortune. Non-turbo subarus have this effect delayed slightly. I'm glad I don't buy turbo ones then because I've only driven this turd for 3 days now! I don't really want to manual swap it, I'm tired of listening to 5MTs whine. I would need to swap what, the ECU, maybe cam and crank sprockets, trans, driveshaft, rear diff, and pedals? If I can get away with it without doing geartrain repairs, I'd rather fix this shitbox the easy way.
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Jan 31, 2018 15:48
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kastein posted:Yeah, everyone got loving specific as soon as I bought one. For the last 6 years it's been nonspecific "4eat is more reliable than 5mt, the non WRX 5mt blows up eventually". Neither, it's a seal on, I believe, the reverse actuator piston. I've never poked that deep into one, but a friend of mine at a Subaru indy shop said you can drop the VB and replace it. Sounds like a can of nope to me.
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Jan 31, 2018 18:40
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Did they fix that with the 5EAT?
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Jan 31, 2018 19:05
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kastein posted:I'm glad I don't buy turbo ones then because I've only driven this turd for 3 days now! Should be able to keep the ecu but I don't know for sure. On the older cars the difference was just a set of pins that was jumped or not. No immobilizer so I think you can just plug in a different ecu and have it work. Crank/cam sprockets etc are the same. Driveshaft yes, AT part is shorter. Pedals, clutch hydraulics- the firewall probably has the provisions to bolt them on. Rear diff only if you change final drive. Your auto forester is possibly 4.11 and the mt 4.44? Or they're the same, or it's the other way around. I don't know. Would need the trans mounting x-member and also shifter stuff. Not sure about the difference in wiring harness for the neutral position and reverse switches and speed sensor. Best case the connectors up near the firewall are the same and you just need to change the short harness section to the trans. Unless you have a MT parts car sitting there not sure I would bother. Start with a couple of drain and refills?
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Jan 31, 2018 19:24
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chrisgt posted:Neither, it's a seal on, I believe, the reverse actuator piston. I've never poked that deep into one, but a friend of mine at a Subaru indy shop said you can drop the VB and replace it. Sounds like a can of nope to me. I'd just replace the entire VB. I've done a few VB swaps hoping to fix an issue with about a 50% success rate. Worth a shot if you can get one cheap from a bone yard. But yeah I'd do fluid change first, maybe try the Lucas poo poo and if that doesn't work try swapping the VB. The problem with that obviously is you could be swapping it with one that is just as bad or worse. No way i'd bother doing a manual swap on a $400 beater, unless you're completely bored with nothing better to do. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Jan 31, 2018 |
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Jan 31, 2018 19:36
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My old car is an 01 5mt Forester  (New one is 01 4eat Forester) I was told that auto vs manual have different reluctor tooth patterns auto vs manual for a few years. I didn't realize the rear diff ratio was the same, TBH. The going into gear slowly thing I can live with unless it gets really bad. However, I'm more concerned about the RPM flare and shudder when downshifting at highway speeds if I goose the throttle to pass or maintain speed uphill. That feels expensive and I try to avoid it.
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Jan 31, 2018 19:37
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Changing out the fluid should fix the shudder problem at least.
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Jan 31, 2018 19:41
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I think the shudder is the clutch pack for whatever gear I'm abusing going from slipping to grabbing very suddenly (because what happens is I give it more throttle, it downshifts, rpms flare, I wince and back off so I don't glass the entire clutch pack, it grabs and shudders as the engine speed gets in line with the road speed and gear selection) but yeah, hopefully new fluid will help. Hell, the guy replaced the radiator and I don't even know if he lost a lot of fluid and didn't refill it.
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Jan 31, 2018 19:50
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Wrar posted:Did they fix that with the 5EAT? Sure, but the 4eat also fixed it with a better design in 02. The auto has a 4.44 final drive, the manual has a 4.11. the generation 1 transmissions have an external adjustment for the brake band that fixes the 3rd gear flare, if the generation 2 trans has that, do it before you destroy something. I'd start with a fluid/filter change, though.
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Jan 31, 2018 22:00
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kastein posted:I think the shudder is the clutch pack for whatever gear I'm abusing going from slipping to grabbing very suddenly (because what happens is I give it more throttle, it downshifts, rpms flare, I wince and back off so I don't glass the entire clutch pack, it grabs and shudders as the engine speed gets in line with the road speed and gear selection) but yeah, hopefully new fluid will help. Speaking as someone who had something very similar happen to an auto trans, it may help a little, for a little while, but ultimately poo poo is hosed.
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Feb 1, 2018 02:12
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 well the exhaust just exited the vehicle, broke off at the cat outlet flange. Good thing I have a spare cat and manifold on the porch and a parts car sitting here still... I thought the exhaust was louder than it should be, but didn't expect it to snap off so soon. At least Subaru exhaust is crazy simple to replace. Pancake motors are good for something I guess.It must have been jealous of the trans, wheel bearings, and brakes being the center of attention.
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Feb 1, 2018 15:20
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Ive got a y-pipe with a cat and a few other pieces so let me know if you need anything and Ill check my pile.
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Feb 2, 2018 00:13
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kastein posted:
just imagine how much extra free time you'd have if you just bought anything but shitcan cars
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Feb 2, 2018 00:48
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BraveUlysses posted:just imagine how much extra free time you'd have if you just bought anything but shitcan cars Haha, that's my new philosophy now. Spend as little amount of time possible working on cars, I even switched to extended life Mobil 1 so I only have to change the oil once a year now
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Feb 2, 2018 01:14
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Just make a straight pipe that goes from the end of the header straight out behind the front passenger wheel. Edit: then have it bend up into a huge stack
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Feb 2, 2018 01:22
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BraveUlysses posted:just imagine how much extra free time you'd have if you just bought anything but shitcan cars You buying? I'd rather put that money into my house and buying 24v Cummins motors, 15 speed Eaton roadrangers, 2 post lifts, and grand wagoneers on a whim, without having to turn my 401k contributions down. (The exhaust will likely take about half an hour of my life. That's what it took last time, on the silver Forester. It's two electrical connectors and 8 bolts, and I've got one or two spares of each part involved aside from a few gaskets and bolts that will be here Saturday.)
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Feb 2, 2018 02:40
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That half hour could be spent doing literally anything else. My $500 Acura with a known bad tranny has outlasted like...every beater you've bought.
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Feb 2, 2018 03:01
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iwentdoodie posted:That half hour could be spent doing literally anything else. Ken is pretty hard on equipment. Ask him about the toilet that exploded.
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Feb 2, 2018 03:07
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iwentdoodie posted:That half hour could be spent doing literally anything else. If they came in AWD, I would be 1000% on your side. In fact I went CL shopping for CR-Vs right after wrecking the last Forester and only ended up buying another Forester that I hate because CR-Vs around here are five to eight times as much money, if not more. Also: rust. I seem to recall you living in a rust free area. We're moving to the Seattle area in a couple years, at which point I can replace the rotten to gently caress AWD beaters with ugly but reliable Honda beaters and just work on my dumb Jeeps for fun again. It's not that I like these drat foresters, they just fit the budget and feature requirements really well and I've got basically an entire car worth of spare parts on hand at any time. Well, I did until I made the mistake of buying an automatic one instead of yet another manual. Now I still do, I just don't feel like swapping that many parts
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Feb 2, 2018 03:15
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Ken is pretty hard on equipment. I attribute the short life of some of Ken's things to his hate. He just hates things straight to death.
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Feb 2, 2018 03:15
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kastein posted:Also: rust. I seem to recall you living in a rust free area. We're moving to the Seattle area in a couple years, at which point I can replace the rotten to gently caress AWD beaters with ugly but reliable Honda beaters and just work on my dumb Jeeps for fun again. You're moving after doing all that work to your house? That's gotta be a bit tough.
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Feb 2, 2018 04:12
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Nah that was just the practice house
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Feb 2, 2018 09:05
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cakesmith handyman posted:Nah that was just the practice house Actually, pretty much. I'm gonna miss it... But on the plus side we bought 5 acres of buildable land, vs 1/4 here, so I get to build from scratch like I wanted to in the first place instead of rebuilding a hovel, and there will be a gigantic pole barn involved so no more driving 40 minutes to the hangar to work on cars.
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Feb 2, 2018 12:43
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