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Babby’s first mini, work in progress My little brother got me into Warhammer this Xmas
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Jan 30, 2018 20:14
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| # ? May 16, 2024 10:57 |
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That looks incredibly good for your first mini. The most important thing I can tell you about edge highlighting is that it's way, waaay easier to do if you use the side or edge of your brush instead of the tip, and make sure not to put too much paint on your brush when you're doing it.
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Jan 30, 2018 20:26
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That is great for a first model, and high enough quality I'm pretty sure almost everyone would be pretty proud putting out an army at all that standard.
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Jan 30, 2018 21:42
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Mikey Purp posted:Short of going out and buying metallic blue paint, what techniques can I use to make the armor on my model look like it's blue metal? Kind of going for a cobalt look. I was thinking I would mix my base color with a little bit of silver and then do a silver wash over it and finish with a gloss varnish. I also have gold and bronze metallic paint, if that helps. I achieve something similar to that look by applying a glaze over a silver basecoat. Here's what it looks like when I'm done:  The process is as follows: 1. Basecoat with Vallejo Air Silver. 2. Glaze with a layer of Liquitex Ink! Dioxazine Purple 3. Edge highlight with Vallejo Air Silver. 4. Apply two coats of Army Painter Purple Tone. The equivalent for blue would be Phthalocyanine Blue (Green Shade), which I mixed with white to achieve the look of the power sword.
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Jan 30, 2018 22:03
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Ah, that looks perfect! So, figuring out equivalents based on what I have on hand, this should work, right? 1. Reaper silver filigree to basecoat 2. Glaze with daler rowney process cyan 3. Edge highlight with silver filigree 4. Apply a few coats of les bursley wash recipe using the DR ink process cyan (or maybe sepia). One question I have when glazing with inks, is there anything different vs glazing with normal paints or is still basically just a light coat of ink thinned down with a ~1:5 ink to water ratio?
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Jan 30, 2018 22:29
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I'm repainting some Dark Eldar because I was learning how to use an airbrush the first time I painted them, and - well, I'll post pictures later if I get the time, but the ones that I have now are not painted well. What I'm doing is giving them a heavy gray basecoat, and then zenithally painting them white, which gives them a kind of ceramic effect. However, I want to punch in all of the different plates without having to do all of them by hand. I tried some Nuln Oil Gloss, which looks good, but I was thinking of sealing them and then giving them an all-over oil wash with black paint, so that they look kinda cel-shaded. Should I try an oil wash, or just stick with Nuln Oil Gloss?
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Jan 30, 2018 22:40
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I can also recommend Auto-Air transparent blue to go over silvers. Used it for my Nightlords, looks like this:  (ignore the culexus)  
Yeast fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Jan 31, 2018 |
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Jan 31, 2018 00:49
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Yeast posted:(ignore the culexus) Is that *ever* a good piece of advice? Also, that's a sexy mosquito!
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Jan 31, 2018 01:07
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Mikey Purp posted:Ah, that looks perfect! I spray the ink right out of the airbrush. You can easily go too heavy so I would recommend doing some practice models, but I don't thin it down at all.
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Jan 31, 2018 02:41
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Badger Minitaire Ghost Tint is also great for layering colors, although I'd only really recommend it if you have an airbrush to use. It gets really gloopy as it dries so would be hell to deal with on a regular brush.
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Jan 31, 2018 02:44
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Yeah, no airbrush unfortunately and I just spent a fair amount to get started in the hobby so I want to try to make do with what I have at hand for now. I think I'll just attempt it on a test model and see how it works using very thinned down ink.
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Jan 31, 2018 02:46
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darnon posted:It gets really gloopy as it dries so would be hell to deal with on a regular brush. That said, it makes for an interesting sort of mottled effect when applied with a brush, since it doesn't go on evenly over a wide area like an airbrush. Useful if you want that sort of effect.
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Jan 31, 2018 02:48
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Mikey Purp posted:Yeah, no airbrush unfortunately and I just spent a fair amount to get started in the hobby so I want to try to make do with what I have at hand for now. I think I'll just attempt it on a test model and see how it works using very thinned down ink. I've found that brushing on the ink produces a really interesting effect. Since the distribution is slightly uneven you get something that might actually look closer to metal. Definitely give it a shot.
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Jan 31, 2018 03:41
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w00tmonger posted:Good work man, I have mine partially painted in my backlog and at that scale those are really impressive 
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Jan 31, 2018 14:31
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X-posting from the Keep Painting thread. Groetgaffel posted:Another dent made in my shamefully huge backlog!
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Jan 31, 2018 15:23
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Today I read the best hobby related exchange I've ever seen. The last comment had me lollin' hard
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Jan 31, 2018 17:55
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I was looking at the games-workshop shop page, and this is one of the basilisk pictures. Anyone know how to get this type of metallicesque black on a vehicle? I primed some test pieces chaos black but it looks a lot more plasticy. I tried mixing some black with a gunmetal, which got sorta dark metal sheen, but pretty far from the same results. Is it a different kind of black? Drybrushing? Washes?
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Jan 31, 2018 18:15
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My first instinct is to say Leadbelcher washed with Nuln Oil and maybe some Agrax Earthshade in the recesses.
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Jan 31, 2018 18:38
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Revelation 2-13 posted:I was looking at the games-workshop shop page, and this is one of the basilisk pictures. It's leadbelcher + multiple coats of Nuln Oil. I did the same thing here on my Doom Cogs. It was 3 coats of Nuln Oil. 
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Jan 31, 2018 18:40
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Revelation 2-13 posted:I was looking at the games-workshop shop page, and this is one of the basilisk pictures. Honestly, that looks like black with silver dry brushed over it. You can even see the dry brush width where he pushed it down too hard and didn't wipe enough off first.
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Jan 31, 2018 19:05
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Yeah, that's just black drybrushed with a metallic paint.
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Jan 31, 2018 20:49
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Ilor posted:Yeah, that's just black drybrushed with a metallic paint. Pretty much this, they've just painted it black and drybrushed metallic over the top catching recesses and some open areas.
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Jan 31, 2018 21:14
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Agreed, it looks similar to my metals; Leadbelcher mixed with Black in a 2:1 ratio, wash in Agrax, drybrush Necron Compound.
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Jan 31, 2018 21:41
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Thanks a ton, that's very useful - I'll try both things and see what I like.
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Jan 31, 2018 22:19
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Crossposting from the Oath Thread This Emperor's Champion model is a big part of why I chose Black Templars. Pretty happy with how it turned out.
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Jan 31, 2018 23:10
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Cross-posting from the Keep Painting thread. There's still more detailing that I could keep doing, but it's more than good enough for gameplay and I'm ready to move on to other projects.      WIP images: https://imgur.com/a/gSVJo I've also recently finished up a reiver squad:  And of interest to this thread I just got the full set of Forge World clear paints + a few of their other paints. I'm not a huge fan of the pots, but the colors are nice. Did some quick testing on spoons. Didn't bother to thin them (though I probably would when trying to coat a surface for real) and my coats were a little heavy, so there's a bit of texture on the surface (and I failed at getting a clean coat of Burnt Iron so that adds even more texture. I tested Angron Red on a few different airbrush metal paints. My favorite out of them is probably the VMC Steel, though the Iron Hands Steel would also look good if I had either thinned it a little or used a little higher pressure, and maybe done a second coat. All the individual colors were tested on spoons based with VMC Steel and then a highlight on top of Duraluminum, which I think is likely how I'll end up using them. The Angron Red on those samples could've done with 1 more coat to build up the color as rich as it is on the others.  
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Feb 1, 2018 00:58
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That's an impressive piece of terrain, moreso because of how fast you put it together. It took you what, a week? From total scratch no less.
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Feb 1, 2018 01:10
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BULBASAUR posted:That's an impressive piece of terrain, moreso because of how fast you put it together. It took you what, a week? From total scratch no less. 2 weeks. Started on the 17th. And fwiw the turret isn't scratch built.
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Feb 1, 2018 01:17
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Fyrbrand posted:Today I read the best hobby related exchange I've ever seen. The last comment had me lollin' hard I tried to butter my toast the way I remove mold lines, and now all the fine details have been scraped off the bread, pls help
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Feb 1, 2018 01:46
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Booley posted:Cool poo poo I was just looking today for an example of the Forgeworld clear green. I ordered Calth Blue and Angron Red to paint up Betrayal at Calth, and thought the green might be good for Primaris Dark Angels. I think it would work great under VMC Steel. Thanks a lot for posting this.
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Feb 1, 2018 03:06
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I tried to butter my toast the way I remove mold lines, and now all the fine details have been scraped off the bread, pls help Try applying a wash of melted butter and flow improver. That should bring out some of the details. Part of it may be your original piece. The Grains Workshop line has been even heavier on the baroque detailing as of late (yadda yadda seeds for the seed throne you know the drill), while your cheaper Reaper stuff made out of Wonderbread doesn't hold detail too well to begin with.
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Feb 1, 2018 03:47
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grassy gnoll posted:Try applying a wash of melted butter and flow improver. That should bring out some of the details. I was using the "hybrid" kinda breads, like the ones that Privateer Panini Press used to use, the type that's a pain in the backside to get buttered properly. 
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Feb 1, 2018 04:18
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Just be careful about Wheat Miniatures. If you drop your bread on the floor you'll never find it again.
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Feb 1, 2018 04:35
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Sorry to go off all half-baked, but it's Oath Thread Crosspostin' Time!Dr. Gargunza posted:Oath Complete! ...Welp, back to loafing around.
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Feb 1, 2018 06:21
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Be careful when working with Corvus Bagel products, they're not as flexible as your everyday bread and may break if handled too roughly.grassy gnoll posted:while your cheaper Reaper stuff made out of Wonderbread doesn't hold detail too well to begin with. 
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Feb 1, 2018 14:22
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The November-January C-SPAM Gunpla Challenge is complete! The theme was "The Nixon Years" and boy did people rise to that challenge. Congratulations to all the completed entries! But it's February now, and that means the new C-SPAM Gunpla Challenge has begun! The theme this time is Historical Empires! What would it be like if Ogedai Khan had piloted a robot instead of riding a horse? Can a Gundam be a trireme? Imagine the Soviet Unions rolling into Hungary in Guntanks instead of regular tanks. Whatever you can come up with, as long as it's in some way related to an empire from history, it's fair game! The challenge runs for two months, so we've got lots of time. Get your entries in by March 31st!
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Feb 1, 2018 14:29
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Am I in the minority in that I only own one Citadel painting handle?
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Feb 1, 2018 17:16
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The Sex Cannon posted:Am I in the minority in that I only own one Citadel painting handle? I own zero painting handles/buttplugs.
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Feb 1, 2018 17:19
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The Sex Cannon posted:Am I in the minority in that I only own one Citadel painting handle? I only own one, but I can't find it. Does that count?
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Feb 1, 2018 17:29
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| # ? May 16, 2024 10:57 |
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berzerkmonkey posted:I only own one, but I can't find it. Does that count? did you check your butt because that's a mistake i made I went up to the local game store to paint, and to my embarrassment, I pulled out a periwinkle blue silicone  paint handle then looked to the audience and said,"Then that means... Oh boy!”  but for real it may be in ur butt 
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Feb 1, 2018 17:54
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