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If you get a UniFi AP that isn’t a Pro that was made in late 2017 or later, it will work using "regular" PoE (AF). If you get a UniFi Pro made at any time it will also work using AF. I would definitely get a UniFi model that supports AF, since PoE switches will be much much cheaper than the Ubiquiti switches that support both passive 24V PoE and AF.
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Feb 2, 2018 23:33
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Twerk from Home posted:8 port PoE switch is more, and if you go without PoE you'd need 2 injectors, right? Nanostation acs don't even come with an injector. It looks like the new NS-5ACs aren't even available anywhere yet, even though they've been on the site for months, if they don't pop up anywhere in the next few weeks I'll probably just grab a couple of LocoM2s. Do the LocoM2s come with the POE adapters? I have a couple kicking around from when I did my home setup anyway, so it wouldn't be a huge deal if they didn't. bobfather posted:If you get a UniFi AP that isn’t a Pro that was made in late 2017 or later, it will work using "regular" PoE (AF). Yeah, I'll probably end up with UAP‑AC‑LITE or LR and go from there after I see how well it broadcasts through the house. Those run fine off of a regular POE switch. Kaboobi fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Feb 2, 2018 |
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Feb 2, 2018 23:35
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I am in need of upgrading from the Netgear WNDR3700v4 that has begun requiring more attention than it deserves. I own a small-medium house that was built in 2006. It has cat5e in most rooms that all connect in the master bedroom closet, the current home of the router. At first I was thinking I would just get one of the TP link devices but I am now thinking I want a separate wifi AP in the kitchen. Is this a situation where an EdgeRouter X and two AC Lite units would be best? Also, anyone have suggestions for making a floor plan for HeatMapper? The grid is not so easy to use.
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Feb 3, 2018 23:14
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I'm working on revamping my network, it needs some upgrading and extending. I'm trying to figure out the basic needs, and how much it's going to cost me. Budget is totally flexible but I don't want to waste money. Not sure if it's at odds with that goal, but I'm considering moving over to ubiquiti gear, either all at once or phasing it in as needed. The location: my house, which is three levels; my shop, which is a steel building 100' away; and then the exterior, which I'd like to blanket in wifi, covering anywhere from 1/2 acre to 10 acres, depending on how things go. Here's my current setup, pretty basic. Solid lines are physical links, dashed lines are wireless.  Currently, the wifi has trouble reaching from the AP to the top floor. If I put the router on the main floor in the middle instead of in the basement where the uplink comes in, it has trouble reaching the guest room. Here's what I'm considering doing:  I've already buried the hard line from the house to the barn, that's available. And I'm thinking of using the barn's connection to start the exterior network (mesh?) because it's convenient and has a good vantage point on pretty much all the turf I want to cover starting off. Does this seem like a pretty reasonable approach? Recommendations on hardware for each of these positions? Within the house, I have cat5e to all extents of the house: they did the phone with that and since we don't use a hard phone line, I've already re-wired a number of the phone jacks to be single ethernet drops. My thinking was that using those network drops with very simple APs would be the easiest way to get wifi to all ends of the house. I'm thinking one AP in the basement, and one on the main floor at the opposite end of the house, should give good signal to all reaches. If not, I can just put one per floor. Also, I need both wifi and ethernet in the shop, so if I can get a single device that'll provide both, that'd be preferable. The biggest thing here is that I want all of this to be the same network as far as any devices are concerned. I don't want layers of routers with subnets, I want it all to be one big happy family with no separation between any of it. If I want to use my tablet to remote desktop into my PC in my house from the mesh network down by the pond, it needs to just go. No isolation. I'm not sure what the right term for that would be. Basically, I want that router back at the house (connected to the uplink) to be the only thing managing devices and handing out IPs, etc. So yeah, does that second pic look reasonable? And if so, would ubiquiti gear be a good fit for this without wasting a bunch of money? Should I chuck the n900 right off the bat and just replace it, or should I keep it around and use that as one of my APs for now, and blend that with whatever other hardware I get? ================ e: After looking more at the ubiquiti products, man, I'm thinking harder about chucking the n900. I could just use a (non-wifi) router that provides PoE and I can drop in those UniFi AC In-Wall AP units wherever (inside), it'd be a cinch, and they're SUPER unobtrusive. They look pretty much ideal for my needs. I think one would cover the shop, at least, and a couple in the house would probably suffice. And since they provide a couple ports as well, I wouldn't be losing anything there. With the PoE protocol they use on those (link: https://store.ubnt.com/products/inwall-ap) is it safe to plug non-PoE devices in to the PoE port, or is that a danger zone? Because in the shop at least, having the two ports on the bottom of that thing would probably provide 100% of the physical link needs I have there. Actually, I could use the one pure data port for the computer I need there, and the PoE+data port to start the mesh network for the exterior. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Feb 4, 2018 |
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Feb 4, 2018 18:53
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Bad Munki posted:Lot of stuff I can't answer all your questions but Ubiquiti gear is minimal cost difference from consumer gear and significantly better in my limited experience. Depending on the APs you get you need to consider what PoE needs will be - the AC lites run different voltage than the Pros, so pick router/PoE switch accordingly. The Pro has additional ports like the in-wall, so depending on the coverage needed the Pro may be a better bet. I've used mesh in a house setting but not sure how that would translate to an outdoor area - you might do better with some strong outdoor APs strategically placed.
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Feb 4, 2018 21:36
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When I connect my laptop to an OpenVPN server I lose the ability to ping other local devices. Laptop is on 192.168.1.0/24 and pings other devices fine when not connected to the VPN. Since using pfSense I have created two different home nets: 192.168.1.0/24 for wireless devices and 192.168.0.0/24 for wired devices on the pfSense box. What do I need to do in order to ping and SSH other local boxes whilst tun0 is up on my laptop? Would it be better to add a static route in pfSense or just configure routing table/iptables on my laptop? I can ping 192.168.1.1 when tun0 is up, but not anything on the 192.168.0.1 net.
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Feb 4, 2018 21:38
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Yeah sorry, that was a lot, I think half the reason for posting all this is just to organize my thoughts in a place where I might get some feedback and sanity checking. Anyhow, the more I look at it, a single well-placed exterior AP will actually cover 90% of the exterior area I'm interested in, so I'm just going to do that. Any networking beyond that would require gymnastics to supply power, so it might happen some day, but I'm not going to worry about it for now. I think I have most of the house/shop/exterior figured out now, I'm just trying to decide what do to coming right off the uplink. I could just stick a PoE switch on it and be done, but then I'd be stuck using the modem's routing, and man, I just don't like it: it's not my modem, the software is not good, and it doesn't even give me the controls I need to do stuff I've really gotten used to having. So I want my entire network behind some sort of router or something, and if my connection changes in the future, nothing changes but what the uplink on my network is plugged into. So this is the current picture:  I think this is pretty sane? That router doesn't give me a lot of room to grow, but if I need more ports, I can just throw a small unmanaged switch in there as needed.
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Feb 4, 2018 22:06
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Bad Munki posted:Yeah sorry, that was a lot, I think half the reason for posting all this is just to organize my thoughts in a place where I might get some feedback and sanity checking. Looks pretty sane. I will note that someone in this thread recommended using a switch behind the router instead of using the router ports for switching for your other devices, but I think it won't be an issue, you just may not get full gigabit in that config (read the manual for the ER-POE, it will tell you).
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Feb 5, 2018 00:18
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thiazi posted:Depending on the APs you get you need to consider what PoE needs will be - the AC lites run different voltage than the Pros, so pick router/PoE switch accordingly. The newer AC Lites are standard PoE as well as 24v passive.
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Feb 5, 2018 01:45
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So wait, it looks like the edgerouter has to get managed through its own deal, like it doesn't tie in with the unifi stuff? That's a bummer. I'd really like to consolidate my management of all this into one coherent process. That has me thinking about swapping the edgerouter for a US-8-150W, and seeing if I can get the DHCP configurations and such that I want out of the DSL modem's software, and if I can't, I can put something else between the modem and the switch later on. Also, that one has 8 PoE ports, and they're all PoE+, whereas the edgerouter's was only 4 passive (but manually configurable as off/24v/48v), so I like that. I'm thinking the 150W router instead of the 60W though because the 60W doesn't generally have enough oomph left over on each port to power a second device on passthrough (i.e. 7W + 8.5W passthrough is already a use case in my situation), while the 150W offers 34W per port, which leaves me plenty of room for growth later. With all that in mind, the slight change to the network now makes it look like this, with the only variable being whether or not it turns out I need a router after the modem:  Does this all still jive to those of you that know their products? I found a table in the unifi AC datasheet that lists switch compatibility and the devices in that chart are all listed as compatible with the (150W) switch in question, so unless there's something I'm missing, this should work. Sorry if I'm taking up a lot of the thread with this, it's just that the complete overhaul/upgrade and delving into PoE at the same time is a lot to take in all at once and I don't want to screw up too excessively. 
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Feb 5, 2018 07:51
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Bad Munki posted:So wait, it looks like the edgerouter has to get managed through its own deal, like it doesn't tie in with the unifi stuff? That's a bummer. I'd really like to consolidate my management of all this into one coherent process. The edge products are a different product line than the Unifi products. If you want to manage everything through one device you would probably want to get a Unifi Security Gateway as your router. https://store.ubnt.com/collections/routing-switching/products/unifi-security-gateway
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Feb 5, 2018 16:13
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Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but also note that I think the USG does not mirror all the features of the edgerouter.
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Feb 5, 2018 16:27
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Thermopyle posted:Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but also note that I think the USG does not mirror all the features of the edgerouter. Yes this is correct, although I do not know the exact list of comparisons off the top of my head. BadMunki: If you need the features of the Edgerouter, you can also use a Unifi Cloud Key to set up all of your WAPs and keep them managed. You would still have multiple interfaces, but all of your WAPs would be combined at least. Edit: Okay just looked it up, the standard USG doesn't have POE so you would still need a switch with POE or injectors if you wanted to go that route. The USG and the ERL are actually the same device but with different firmware. Armacham fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Feb 5, 2018 |
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Feb 5, 2018 16:38
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Is there a goon consensus on if google wifi / orbi / other mesh systems are worth it or not? Any ones to avoid or to go for? Any info on real world speeds from these things? I am trying to help a friend out getting his house covered in wifi. I personally have a Unifi setup (thanks this thread) that I think kicks all kinds of rear end and my inclination is to just build that for him. However, he is not a power user at all and doesnt particularly care about anything beyond it working, and the mesh stuff would be pretty simple for him. He is about to get a gigabit fiber connection turned on at his place. he has no need for gigabit WAN speed but of course we all want to see what we pay for. Thanks.
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Feb 5, 2018 16:54
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emocrat posted:Is there a goon consensus on if google wifi / orbi / other mesh systems are worth it or not? Any ones to avoid or to go for? Any info on real world speeds from these things? Ask the guy in this thread that's selling his Ubiquiti AmpliFi system thiazi posted:I've ordered two UAP-AC-LITES and I'm trying to figure out best places to locate them to cover my house. Any opinions on whether I should do one per floor centrally, or do one on right side and one on left side of the house (or a combination)? I realize this will depend building to building, but general guidelines or successes would be helpful. It will be much easier to run cabling if I can do a left/right split on the second floor as I have already got cables pulled up into the attic.
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Feb 5, 2018 16:59
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Mesh will probably be okay if you are using wifi for mostly web browsing and with smart phones. I wouldn't recommend it if you are doing a lot of streaming or gaming, unless you are still hardwiring the devices that need the more reliable connection.
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Feb 5, 2018 17:07
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CrazyLittle posted:Ask the guy in this thread that's selling his Ubiquiti AmpliFi system My Amplifi system is sold, but my feedback is generally positive. I had strong coverage in the house - going from a single wireless router with dead spots to no dead spots at all. Due to layout I had to use the (slower) 2Ghz backhaul for one of the mesh points and the speed suffered as it should. I was happy with it but wanted to get closer to my WAN speed so I did like you and went with Ubiquiti APs. If speed is really important, mesh may or may not work depending on the layout of the house and network. If coverage is most important, I'd confidently recommend a mesh system. Amplifi was nice for non-power users in that it had relatively light interface entirely controlled from a phone app.
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Feb 5, 2018 17:17
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Bad Munki posted:Does this all still jive to those of you that know their products? I found a table in the unifi AC datasheet that lists switch compatibility and the devices in that chart are all listed as compatible with the (150W) switch in question, so unless there's something I'm missing, this should work. Won't work for the shop exterior. The UAP-AC-IW provides 48v passive poe outbound. UAP-AC-M needs 24v passive inbound or 802.3af poe. Couple of notes: - The UAP-AC-IW isn't as good an AP as you'd think by specs. It's not 1-to-1 replaceable with the standard ceiling APs. Ie: you're installing an AP in a suboptimal spot (low down near floor), and then surrounding it with a building materials (ie: the wall you're installing it in and maybe even the metal gang box). Look at doing the ceiling mounts. Life will be much better. - usually a bad idea to try and run copper ethernet between buildings, especially poe (ground loops and all that - as well as I'm guessing you're not using exterior rated ethernet cabling). But in your case, I'd just install a small poe switch in the shop to terminate the ethernet from the house and feed all the local devices from that. - why run a single mesh device? Just use another generic AP. Reduce your complexity. - Edgerouter is an okay firewall, IMHO, replace it with the USG. I seriously doubt you're doing anything too special that requires funky work if you're contemplating using the supplied dsl modem/router. Get the combined management interface advantage, it'll save you time and effort in the future when debugging. Edit: Also, you can use something like this: Netgear GS105PE - 1x 802.3at poe in, 2x 802.3af out/passthrough unknown fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Feb 5, 2018 |
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Feb 5, 2018 18:21
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Thanks for the info all. I think I'm just gonna do the Unifi setup. I've been so happy with mine, its probably worth the extra labor.
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Feb 5, 2018 19:38
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unknown posted:The UAP-AC-IW provides 48v passive poe outbound. UAP-AC-M needs 24v passive inbound or 802.3af poe. https://dl.ubnt.com/datasheets/instant/Instant_802.3af_Gigabit_PoE_Converters_DS.pdf unknown posted:- The UAP-AC-IW isn't as good an AP as you'd think by specs. It's not 1-to-1 replaceable with the standard ceiling APs. Ie: you're installing an AP in a suboptimal spot (low down near floor), and then surrounding it with a building materials (ie: the wall you're installing it in and maybe even the metal gang box). Look at doing the ceiling mounts. Life will be much better. unknown posted:- usually a bad idea to try and run copper ethernet between buildings, especially poe (ground loops and all that - as well as I'm guessing you're not using exterior rated ethernet cabling). But in your case, I'd just install a small poe switch in the shop to terminate the ethernet from the house and feed all the local devices from that. unknown posted:Edit: Also, you can use something like this: Netgear GS105PE - 1x 802.3at poe in, 2x 802.3af out/passthrough Ubiquiti US-8 Unifi Switch by Ubiquiti Networks Link: http://a.co/e1ZmyvI
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Feb 5, 2018 20:21
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unknown posted:Won't work for the shop exterior. quote:Couple of notes: quote:- usually a bad idea to try and run copper ethernet between buildings, especially poe (ground loops and all that - as well as I'm guessing you're not using exterior rated ethernet cabling). But in your case, I'd just install a small poe switch in the shop to terminate the ethernet from the house and feed all the local devices from that. quote:- why run a single mesh device? Just use another generic AP. Reduce your complexity. quote:- Edgerouter is an okay firewall, IMHO, replace it with the USG. I seriously doubt you're doing anything too special that requires funky work if you're contemplating using the supplied dsl modem/router. Get the combined management interface advantage, it'll save you time and effort in the future when debugging. quote:Edit: Also, you can use something like this: Netgear GS105PE - 1x 802.3at poe in, 2x 802.3af out/passthrough Thanks a bunch for the specific advice! I'll revisit a bunch of this and probably post an updated diagram in a few days because I'm bad at actually convincing myself to finalize things and pull triggers. Choice paralysis or something, I dunno. 
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Feb 5, 2018 20:34
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Bad Munki posted:Yeah, I have fairly strong opinions on keeping a singular (LOL) interface for all this, it's part of the reason for rebuilding this thing. Go all-in and drink the UniFi kool-aid: get the USG, switches, APs, and Cloud Key. Post a trip report with screenshots of your slick management UI graphs once you get it set up.
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Feb 5, 2018 23:09
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SamDabbers posted:Go all-in and drink the UniFi kool-aid: get the USG, switches, APs, and Cloud Key. Post a trip report with screenshots of your slick management UI graphs once you get it set up. USG's plenty adequate for 1gig internet service, BTW  
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Feb 6, 2018 07:52
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I'm looking at a single Google WiFi unit for a HK apartment and what do I find but the major local telecom, PCCW, has a monopoly deal with Google to sell the device. And guess what, you cannot actually buy the device they only sell it rental bundled together with some terrible hosted services for AV and magical security   They advertise the device as "Google WiFi service" 
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Feb 6, 2018 08:56
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I don't know if im dealing with an ISP problem or a router problem. Asus N66U. I have a 300mpbs connection and was regularly getting half that speed. I eventually switched from IPV6 in the router to IPV4 and now im wrecking speeds of 350mbps. So why is that?
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Feb 6, 2018 21:52
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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The router might not have the beans to do NAT at those sorts of throughputs.
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Feb 6, 2018 21:53
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SamDabbers posted:Go all-in and drink the UniFi kool-aid: get the USG, switches, APs, and Cloud Key. Post a trip report with screenshots of your slick management UI graphs once you get it set up. Can confirm this rules; though I'm just running the controller in a jail on my FreeNAS box. Relatively simple to compile from Ports.
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Feb 6, 2018 22:14
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I've got a Edgerouter X and a Unifi and the loving edgerouter has to be reset about every 2 weeks. I get no dhcp response and traffic stops working. gently caress
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Feb 7, 2018 01:06
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n0tqu1tesane posted:The newer AC Lites are standard PoE as well as 24v passive. Can you elaborate on this? The ubiquiti store still only shows "Passive Power over Ethernet (24V), (Pairs 4, 5+; 7, 8 Return)" in the product specification Power Method row on the product page. https://store.ubnt.com/collections/wireless/products/unifi-ac-lite Also: with that unit (and its brethren), they all appear to include a PoE injector, so if I wanted to, I could just use a regular switch and put the included injector on the appropriate lead down at the switch in the wiring closet, yeah? Just to keep things tidy at the far end. Ultimately, I imagine I'd want to get a PoE switch, but for just easing into things, I was wondering if that'd be a viable solution. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Feb 7, 2018 |
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Feb 7, 2018 04:03
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redeyes posted:I've got a Edgerouter X and a Unifi and the loving edgerouter has to be reset about every 2 weeks. I get no dhcp response and traffic stops working. RMA it, that makes no sense.
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Feb 7, 2018 04:31
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Bad Munki posted:Can you elaborate on this? The ubiquiti store still only shows "Passive Power over Ethernet (24V), (Pairs 4, 5+; 7, 8 Return)" in the product specification Power Method row on the product page. They do include a POE injector, but the AC Lite I purchased last April had this sticker on the box, and worked when I used a Cisco IP phone PoE injector with it:  Also, here's the announcement from Ubiquiti: https://community.ubnt.com/t5/UniFi-Wireless/Updating-PoE-Standards-on-the-UniFi-Product-line/m-p/1999465#M239370 quote:802.3af+24V Support for UAP-AC-LR/UAP-AC-LITE
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Feb 7, 2018 04:33
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Photex posted:RMA it, that makes no sense. Yeah I have no clue. Guess I will
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Feb 7, 2018 04:36
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Huh, so that was back in the end of 2016, I imagine there's basically no chance of getting an outdated one if I buy direct from ubiquiti. Cool, thanks.
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Feb 7, 2018 04:37
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Bad Munki posted:Can you elaborate on this? The ubiquiti store still only shows "Passive Power over Ethernet (24V), (Pairs 4, 5+; 7, 8 Return)" in the product specification Power Method row on the product page. official announcement here https://community.ubnt.com/t5/UniFi-Wireless/Updating-PoE-Standards-on-the-UniFi-Product-line/m-p/1999465#M239370
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Feb 7, 2018 04:38
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Armacham posted:Mesh will probably be okay if you are using wifi for mostly web browsing and with smart phones. I wouldn't recommend it if you are doing a lot of streaming or gaming, unless you are still hardwiring the devices that need the more reliable connection. Wait... hang on. I was considering mesh. We do a lot of Netflix, Plex from my Mac to Apple TV and online poo poo with PS4 and Nintendo switch. I haven’t done a ton of Mesh research but I’d never heard this was a drawback...
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Feb 7, 2018 04:43
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Feenix posted:Wait... hang on. I was considering mesh. We do a lot of Netflix, Plex from my Mac to Apple TV and online poo poo with PS4 and Nintendo switch. (Good) mesh is all about taking your signal on 2.4g and then retransmitting it on the 5g network back to your central AP that has a wired uplink. So the above scenario is good when the following is true: - 2.4g network is fine and doesn't have any contention (sucks in a bad/dense area) - your mesh AP actually has two radios in it (1 downlink to you, 1 uplink to the hub AP). - 5g network is free of obstacles so you can get the necessary range to backhaul it. All the mesh AP are software based, so are slower than a wired switch, so don't expect to be real time (ie VoIP quality) across it.
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Feb 7, 2018 05:16
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CrazyLittle posted:There's an adapter for this purpose, from 48v 802.3af PoE to 24v passive PoE: Still won't work. He needs a passive 48v to 24v converter. No 802.3af signalling from the IW device. quote:I have the 8 port one of these, Netgear GS108PE. Not happy with the configuration interface and had a bunch of quirks when I tried to power it with PoE, but it's what I was able to get same-day when my old dumbswitch died. If you're going with the UniFi ecosystem it makes sense to get the UniFi US-8 which is also PoE powered + PoE pass-thru Oh, didn't realize that the US 8 was poe-pd as well. Yeah, that would be a better choice.
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Feb 7, 2018 05:26
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unknown posted:(Good) mesh is all about taking your signal on 2.4g and then retransmitting it on the 5g network back to your central AP that has a wired uplink. I didn’t expect the mesh to go toe to toe with wired but was hoping for similar to my current 2.4 wireless with better coverage across my plaster and lathe house. ( modem/router is in basement (as is tv and my office) but I have a few sucky dead spots upstairs. I live in the northern seattle suburbs so I doubt for signal over-congestion (I’m bookended by folks in their 80/ and 90s.) I just want to finally ditch this AEBS and get something contemporary while improving my range in my house. I game but I’m not, like, playing fighting games online or any MLG-level twitch timing stuff.... Does the Netgear Orbi Rbk50 have the 2 radios? (Downlink and uplink?) -edit found info on this point ”dedicated backhaul connection”. Right? [Edit2]’huh, like I said I’m not super hardcore, but I am a console gamer. PCGamer says in their tests they do not recommend the Orbi because it does. Or peioritiE gaming traffic and <reasons>. Hmmmm... Back to the drawing board on what model to get, I suppose... Feenix fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Feb 7, 2018 |
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Feb 7, 2018 05:27
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The Orbi has a 4x4 backhaul and dual 2x2 radios for clients.
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Feb 7, 2018 05:40
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Evis posted:The Orbi has a 4x4 backhaul and dual 2x2 radios for clients. Thanks, I think that might be a good thing? However it sounds like it’s not a good choice for those that game... :/
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Feb 7, 2018 05:41
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