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22 Eargesplitten posted:Are the harbor freight breaker bars okay? I know they replace their hand tools if they break, so I would think so. Is one with the adjustable angle head worth the extra money? I've had a 1/2 drive 18 inch HF breaker bar for close to 10 years now. Haven't been easy on it either - I routinely slip my jack handle over the end to use as a cheater bar and/or beat it with a sledge hammer.
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# ? Jan 27, 2018 02:22 |
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# ? May 18, 2024 20:10 |
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I don't use mine often anymore but I've never had a problem with either my 3/8 or 1/2
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# ? Jan 27, 2018 02:43 |
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Yeah the 25" breaker with rotating half inch head is awesome. Friend of mine was working on brakes and broke his smaller Craftsman breaker bar trying to get overtightened bolts out. We whipped out the 25" Pittsburgh Steel and it cranked the bolts right off on nearly the first try.
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# ? Jan 27, 2018 03:03 |
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hell, I've dared many friends to break my bullshit HF 1/2" ratchet and none have succeeded. I did have a friend snap a stud and dig a hole in his driveway by trying to reverse while leaving an HF impact socket and breaker bar attached to a lug on his Integra.
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# ? Jan 27, 2018 05:02 |
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I snapped the head off 2 HF style ones in the same day breaking axle nuts loose. Admittedly, it required a 8ft cheater bar and a BFH. Replaced it with a 3/4 drive and a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter. I've beat it in every way imaginable. I call it thor. Still want a soft handled 3/8 breaker bar thats around 18" long though.
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# ? Jan 27, 2018 05:25 |
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Elmnt80 posted:I snapped the head off 2 HF style ones in the same day breaking axle nuts loose. Admittedly, it required a 8ft cheater bar and a BFH. Replaced it with a 3/4 drive and a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter. I've beat it in every way imaginable. I call it thor. Snapon makes a real nice one. https://store.snapon.com/Breaker-Bars-Chrome-3-8--3-8-Drive-Soft-Grip-Breaker-Bar-Extra-Long-Handle-P891141.aspx
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# ? Jan 27, 2018 05:29 |
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And they charge accordingly. $35-50? Sure. A hundo? Fuuuuck that. Edit: the mac one for example is half the price Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Jan 27, 2018 |
# ? Jan 27, 2018 06:24 |
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I've abused the rotating head HF breaker bar too. Mostly to get axle nuts off with a big black piece of pipe slipped over it.
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# ? Jan 27, 2018 15:42 |
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I have their 3/4 inch breaker bar because I got tired of breaking husky half inch ones. I have put a 4 foot pipe on it and applied about 200lb at a 5 foot radius. So I know it handles a thousand foot pounds (really, really rusty axle and pinion nuts) without issue. I recommend it to anyone who isn't Arnold Schwarzenegger.
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# ? Jan 27, 2018 16:15 |
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Great, the 1/2” drive 25” rotating head bar was the exact one I was looking at.
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# ? Jan 27, 2018 18:57 |
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A buddy of mine had a HF 1/2" that was about 3 feet long and named it "do or die." The end of it was bent, but it didn't break!
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# ? Jan 28, 2018 12:00 |
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I have a one meter 3/4" breaker bar that gives zero fucks. It hasn't failed me yet, and hasn't, surprisingly, broken anything yet either.
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# ? Jan 28, 2018 20:42 |
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bolind posted:I have a one meter 3/4" breaker bar that gives zero fucks. It hasn't failed me yet, and hasn't, surprisingly, broken anything yet either. An oldie but a goodie:
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# ? Jan 28, 2018 23:08 |
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Are there any tricks to make my cheap HF framing nailer use an entire load of collated nails? It acts like it’s empty when there are 4 nails left, and loading another strip without emptying those 4 just makes it dryfire.
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# ? Jan 30, 2018 22:13 |
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eddiewalker posted:Are there any tricks to make my cheap HF framing nailer use an entire load of collated nails? It acts like it’s empty when there are 4 nails left, and loading another strip without emptying those 4 just makes it dryfire. Bwahahahahaha. Heh, no. I've been through multiple pin nailers etc from them, they are all like that. Also, never drop it on its head, I've never seen cast aluminum shatter like that.
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# ? Jan 31, 2018 02:00 |
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sharkytm posted:An oldie but a goodie: Addendum: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ATSL7VE/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IW6FPOQIG2TGT&colid=2TVW3PUYB1CR2&psc=0
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# ? Jan 31, 2018 08:45 |
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I'm going to start painting at my house soon. I'm going to need a ladder for this, and I'm thinking one of the multi-purpose ones will be best. It's kind of a toss-up between the 22' and 17' though. Any advice one way or the other? My gutters are kind of high (probably 12' off the ground), so I'm kind of thinking get the 22', and get as much as I can out of that. Space is a bit limited in the garage, so it'd be better to have one than a bunch. Here are the two I'm looking at: Gorilla Ladders 17' and Gorilla Ladders 22'.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 02:22 |
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I use 14’ones at work, and they are awesome and, useful, and great. They are also heavy, and I’d imagine the 22’ one is probably heavy enough to make most people not want to use it. Do you have high vaulted ceilings or entrance stairs that would require this kind of ladder? Besides the fold out max length, their big use is for stairways since you can lengthen just one side.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 02:28 |
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I have a 22' little giant that's basically the same thing and it works great but the weight is pretty annoying when I'm using it in short mode around the house. For me, I think the ideal would be to have the little giant and a lighter 6' fiberglass a-frame for when I don't need the height/adjustability.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 02:43 |
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A 6’ a-frame is pretty much the perfect in home ladder. Tall enough to comfortably reach light fixtures while keeping tools high enough to grab. Pretty light, and a base spread that doesn’t take up the size if a small boat.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 02:50 |
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250 lb aluminum 6 footer covered 99% of my house. I did borrow a little giant for the vaulted entrance you find at the entrance of most split level homes.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 03:09 |
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powderific posted:I have a 22' little giant that's basically the same thing and it works great but the weight is pretty annoying when I'm using it in short mode around the house. For me, I think the ideal would be to have the little giant and a lighter 6' fiberglass a-frame for when I don't need the height/adjustability. This is the combination I have and it is a good combination. Agree with everyone else that the combo ladders are noticeably heavy. Raising it into position at the full 22 ft length can be a challenge.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 03:38 |
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I have a full complement of ladders, but the 6' gets the most use and is the only one that lives in the house. Personally I'd say go for fiberglass with any A frame... At some point it will be used for messing with electrical. Aluminum ladders are for painters IMO.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 04:34 |
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Little giant's are awesome. Waiting for my local Costco to have them again so I can pick one up.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 07:10 |
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I have a ladder that folds into a tall, narrow stick and it’s pretty great. I don’t know if they have a generic name. GP Logistics and Telesteps are two brands that I see with that format.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 07:17 |
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angryrobots posted:Personally I'd say go for fiberglass with any A frame... At some point it will be used for messing with electrical. Aluminum ladders are for painters IMO. I know the logic but I prefer to isolate whatever I'm working on then confirm it's dead with a non-contact probe then a multi meter. The idea of my choice of ladder materials being part of my electrical safety is a terrible idea.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 08:36 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:I know the logic but I prefer to isolate whatever I'm working on then confirm it's dead with a non-contact probe then a multi meter. The idea of my choice of ladder materials being part of my electrical safety is a terrible idea. I agree with this, but at the same time fiberglass ladders are also generally a superior product. They tend to be way more stable and firm in the open position than an aluminum one. They are a bit heavier, but in this case the weight adds to the stability while still not being annoying to move around. So that plus the extra just in case safety of being non- conductive means I’ve never even considered an aluminum ladder for general handy work.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 12:20 |
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I don't think anyone uses a fiberglass ladder with the intent of it being the primary safety device just as you drive around without a seatbelt because you have airbags.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 13:59 |
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nitsuga posted:I'm going to start painting at my house soon. I'm going to need a ladder for this, and I'm thinking one of the multi-purpose ones will be best. It's kind of a toss-up between the 22' and 17' though. Any advice one way or the other? My gutters are kind of high (probably 12' off the ground), so I'm kind of thinking get the 22', and get as much as I can out of that. Space is a bit limited in the garage, so it'd be better to have one than a bunch. I have something similar to the smaller of these that I used to get on my roof once and use it around the house. It's my only one and even being aluminum it's a bit too heavy to make it easy to move around. Now I never, ever want to climb on my roof again, either. Whatever requires that is a job I'll pay for, happily.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 14:30 |
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um excuse me posted:I don't think anyone uses a fiberglass ladder with the intent of it being the primary safety device just as you drive around without a seatbelt because you have airbags. I never said primary, only part of. I've also not used a fibreglass ladder that I can remember, so I won't argue against any feeling of stability.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 14:54 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:I know the logic but I prefer to isolate whatever I'm working on then confirm it's dead with a non-contact probe then a multi meter. The idea of my choice of ladder materials being part of my electrical safety is a terrible idea. I mean do what you like, but standing on a metal later and doing anything electrical weirds me out. Just because it's off right now, doesn't mean it can't be hot a minute later when you're hands are in it, for a variety of reasons you couldn't predict.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 20:52 |
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angryrobots posted:I mean do what you like, but standing on a metal later and doing anything electrical weirds me out. Just because it's off right now, doesn't mean it can't be hot a minute later when you're hands are in it, for a variety of reasons you couldn't predict.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 21:26 |
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angryrobots posted:I mean do what you like, but standing on a metal later and doing anything electrical weirds me out. Just because it's off right now, doesn't mean it can't be hot a minute later when you're hands are in it, for a variety of reasons you couldn't predict. I have a big red card with "Don't loving touch" written on it that goes under the cover of the breaker box when I'm working in there.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 22:08 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:I have a big red card with "Don't loving touch" written on it that goes under the cover of the breaker box when I'm working in there. When I worked at a camera store, folks were often casual about things regarding maintenance. I was very particular about two things. One, jewelry/watches/etc all came off when working on the machines. Two, we had a lock out / tag out box for a goddamn reason. It was great, it was a lockable chastity belt for a 220v plug.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 22:25 |
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InitialDave posted:What the gently caress is going on with your LOTO? Sort that poo poo out. Lock out tag out is great, but idiots still gently caress it up. Fiberglass ladders are a cheap extra layer.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 22:39 |
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Since we're on this subject... I don't want to go into the details because it involved some dumb-rear end poo poo, but my friend did this on his house main breaker a couple nights ago. I think we almost got pretty hosed up
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 22:42 |
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EightBit posted:Lock out tag out is great, but idiots still gently caress it up. A friend's father was almost killed and is permanently disabled because of an idiot cutting off his LOTO lock and throwing the breaker back on. He worked for a company that manufactures industrial coal crushing equipment and was troubleshooting a problem with a unit in the field at a power plant. Apparently the guy who cut the lock and turned the unit back on had been instructed weeks earlier on his first day on the job to "make sure these breakers are always on, because if they're off we lose [some exorbitant sum of money] per hour" so when he saw one of the breakers off with a padlock on it he found some bolt cutters and turned it back on. This not only started the equipment grinding his leg but also dropped a literal ton of coal out of an automatic hopper on top of him. It took the fire department 12 hours to dig him out and he came very, very close to losing his leg, and cannot walk unassisted to this day (this was in the early 2000s.)
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 22:58 |
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It just loving started when the breaker was turned back on?! That's incredibly unsafe and I'm pretty sure a flagrant violation of ISO 13850. Not that coal miners care, but I doubt OSHA liked it much.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 23:02 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:I have a big red card with "Don't loving touch" written on it that goes under the cover of the breaker box when I'm working in there. EightBit posted:Lock out tag out is great, but idiots still gently caress it up. Fiberglass ladders are a cheap extra layer. Geoj posted:A friend's father was almost killed and is permanently disabled because of an idiot cutting off his LOTO lock and throwing the breaker back on.
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 23:12 |
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# ? May 18, 2024 20:10 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:I have a big red card with "Don't loving touch" written on it that goes under the cover of the breaker box when I'm working in there. What if they're color blind?
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# ? Feb 5, 2018 23:50 |