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I saved time on agitation by just putting the film in a blender too.
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Jan 26, 2018 23:21
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Yes but you need to use the highest setting, otherwise it might end up being too grainy.
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Jan 27, 2018 07:55
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Dry your film in the microwave. 5 minutes and high and they come out spotless.
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Jan 27, 2018 15:52
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Here's a couple less failed pictures. Also first roll taken on the RB67 I got two years ago, that I've developed. Album Quick and dirty DSLR scans, film was not perfectly parallel to the sensor, light source was unreliable, and all the images are accidentally mirrored.   
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Jan 27, 2018 20:52
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nielsm posted:Nah that was on a classic stainless steel wheel... Consider it a sacrifice to the pagan film gods. quote:...the kind where you hook the sprocket holes in the center and then wedge the film in. is that how it's suppose to work? I just slot the film through the reel's spool before running it through the reel, never had a problem doing it that way.
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Jan 27, 2018 22:48
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I don't mind this one. I'd print it and sepia tone for a cliche modern old timey look. quote:Reel Chat... Loading 120 film on to plastic reels drives me nuts. 90% of the effort is getting it started. Once its actually seated properly and past the balls you can just sort of slide the film in without even ratcheting. With metal reels (good metal reels), the film is in in seconds after a little practice. The opposite for 35mm.
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Jan 28, 2018 00:57
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Sauer posted:Dry your film in the microwave. 5 minutes and high and they come out spotless. I've seen idiot hipsters do this with instant film for the "effect".
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Jan 28, 2018 02:55
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Comedian Harassment 101     
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Jan 28, 2018 05:17
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Sauer posted:Loading 120 film on to plastic reels drives me nuts. 90% of the effort is getting it started. Once its actually seated properly and past the balls you can just sort of slide the film in without even ratcheting. With metal reels (good metal reels), the film is in in seconds after a little practice. The opposite for 35mm. Cut the corners off the leading edge of your 120 before you load it into the reel. It makes a huge difference for me.
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Jan 28, 2018 05:27
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Plastic reels are poo poo, Hewes reels are the best.
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Jan 28, 2018 17:20
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Slowly drawing on my humongous stash of Astia. Confluence of the Colville and Columbia Rivers by Isaac Sachs, on Flickr  Joseph Canyon by Isaac Sachs, on Flickr  Untitled by Isaac Sachs, on Flickr
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Jan 29, 2018 02:55
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I use a changing bag to load film onto reels and have always had some difficulty with things getting sticky and sweaty if I’m not fast enough. I’ve started to wear nitrile gloves and it makes a huge difference.
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Jan 29, 2018 03:00
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MrBlandAverage posted:Slowly drawing on my humongous stash of Astia.
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Jan 29, 2018 04:21
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spf3million posted:This is really great. Thanks and welcome back to the Dorkroom, I guess?
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Jan 29, 2018 16:57
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Heh thanks..? The battery lead on my Mamiya 6 broke a few years ago and I picked up a new expensive hobby so just lurking here and there for a long while. Really need to figure out how to solder that little nub back on so the battery connection is restored. My wife would certainly appreciate finally getting some of that film out of the freezer.
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Jan 29, 2018 21:26
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Provia 100 w/ Fuji Mini Tiara 28mm f3.5 compact: Temple of Debod by Cacator, on Flickr  Palacio Real de Madrid by Cacator, on Flickr Portra:  Park Güell by Cacator, on Flickr
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Jan 30, 2018 07:30
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Picked up a Fuji Gw690III, as it's on my camera bucket list and couldn't wait any longer for tax return Christmas. First roll came out ok!  The only thing that's weird about the camera is the lack of a traditional bulb mode. You have to advance the film or change the shutter speed to close the shutter. Apparently advancing the shutter isn't a good option on my camera, as you can see some light streaks as the film was moved before the shutter fully closed. frogbs fucked around with this message at 06:48 on Feb 2, 2018 |
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Feb 2, 2018 06:45
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If the exposure is longer than about 10 seconds, putting the lens cap on will also work.
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Feb 2, 2018 11:28
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Or covering it with a hat. I've tossed my beanie over the lens of a camera to block out approaching car headlights many times.
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Feb 3, 2018 21:03
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I hope you can reliably make good low light/long exposures with that Fuji. I had a brief go-round with the mega-old interchangable-lens version, and while the normal bulb mode was great, other aspects... Weren't. Still took some of my favorite night shots with it, though. Sometimes I think about going for one of the later ones, but the lack of bulb mode dissuades me. Lately, though, been thinking about a GS645S. I think they're supposed to be moderately more usable for long exposures without having to hat trick it, compared to the fixed-lens 690s, but it's still some T-mode BS. I just want a 120 format moderate wide of some sort; I got rid of the two Bronica GS lenses in that range that I tried because they sucked (which is weird because the remaining 110 is great), so my only MF lens right now is a 55mm equivalent.
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Feb 3, 2018 22:55
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8th-snype posted:Or covering it with a hat. I've tossed my beanie over the lens of a camera to block out approaching car headlights many times. I have used my hand and haven't run into any issues with that method yet ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Feb 3, 2018 23:01
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SMERSH Mouth posted:I hope you can reliably make good low light/long exposures with that Fuji. I had a brief go-round with the mega-old interchangable-lens version, and while the normal bulb mode was great, other aspects... Weren't. Still took some of my favorite night shots with it, though. Sometimes I think about going for one of the later ones, but the lack of bulb mode dissuades me. Yeah, I found out about the G690BLP and it's real bulb mode AFTER I bought the GW690. You can also get a wider lens for that, which would be more my speed too, although it's F8, which is a little much for night stuff. What other options are out there for 6x9 that don't have the downsides of the 690 series for long exposure stuff? The only thing I can think of is one of those Zero Image or RealitySoSubtle pinhole cameras, and really that's a whole different ballgame from using a traditional camera. For now i'm going to try the hat trick and see how it goes.
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Feb 4, 2018 00:27
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For 6x9 there's a bunch of folding cameras from the 50s and 60s. Zeiss Super Ikonta is the best known one, I have a Moskva 5 which I love and it only cost me $20, but I was lucky to get one that worked. Obviously those might be too primitive for your tastes and they don't have particularly wide lenses - 105mm is the usual focal length and they aren't interchangeable. There are also some view cameras for that format too. Shen Hao make 6x9s that use a 120 rollfilm back but they are pretty spendy.
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Feb 4, 2018 12:52
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GW690 long exposure streaks are the best 
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Feb 4, 2018 23:10
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frogbs posted:Yeah, I found out about the G690BLP and it's real bulb mode AFTER I bought the GW690. You can also get a wider lens for that, which would be more my speed too, although it's F8, which is a little much for night stuff. There is a faster 65 (f5.6) for the early G690s, as well as a 150 and a (supposedly awesome) 50, but they're very rare. In my experience the whole system is not worth the trouble unless you're buying directly/personally from a user-collector who can vouch for the functionality, film flatness, mount registration, lens condition, etc. (The rangefinder is easy to adjust at least.) The only other 6x9 system I can think of off the top of my head is the Mamiya Press system. I think the Fuji lenses are better regarded, though. Then there are the various contraptions that use LF lenses with roll film backs, like the Brooks Veriwide. Personally, I always wanted a 65mm lens / 6x9 camera, but lately I'd be more inclined to the moderate wide-normal view of a 90 in that format. That's pretty close to 60 on 645.
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Feb 5, 2018 00:00
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Helicity posted:Out of the 10 times I've flown with film, hand checks were never an issue for 9 of them, and usually opened up a conversation about how great film was or how crazy I was. The one time it was an issue, it was pretty bad, and the TSA agent almost got me kicked off the flight for "misleading and lying" to her. evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Feb 5, 2018 |
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Feb 5, 2018 00:07
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Who screwed up and forgot to mark where the inner helicoid separates? This guy. Going to be a fun reassembly. Ground up war orphans and cigarette ash, don't breath this.
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Feb 5, 2018 07:06
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Tri-X at 1600 and some Portra 160  
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Feb 7, 2018 16:26
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Been out shooting some film for the first time in a while, this time with an aim to break two bad habits: 1) Thinking of great ideas at times when I can't do anything about them (laying in bed, usually) and then not bothering when I do have the time. and 2) Stop just wandering around shooting random pictures and instead have a goal - something simple and achievable, and see it through to completion. I read somewhere that it's easier to let projects die because then they'll always have "potential to be great" whereas when you actually complete it you risk being disappointed. So this is what I came up with:  trees_A by Brian Kennedy, on Flickr I did several of these and I'm kinda happy with them. Each tree is so different. Just for kicks, I might go get this printed:  trees_page by Brian Kennedy, on Flickr All in all a fun project and got me stoked on this stuff again.
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Feb 11, 2018 01:49
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And a question for the group: What would cause the highlights to bleed over onto the shadows, like in the left of this crop:  HP5+ developed 1+100 Blazinol (Rodinal) 60min stand development (agitated once at start and again at 30mins) I'm still pretty new to film development, learning mostly on my own by reading here and following the Massive Dev chart.
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Feb 11, 2018 01:59
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Rot posted:And a question for the group: Developer is being depleted in the area of higher exposure, reducing activity in the adjacent area. It's been a common issue for me with stand development. Edit: On second thought the above is probably incorrect. Activity isn't reduced, but it is being altered in areas adjacent to high exposure. Edit2: 'Bromide Drag' they call it: https://www.brodie-tyrrell.org/wiki/index.php?BromideDrag Father O'Blivion fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Feb 11, 2018 |
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Feb 11, 2018 03:08
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Father O'Blivion posted:Developer is being depleted in the area of higher exposure, reducing activity in the adjacent area. It's been a common issue for me with stand development. Ah, that makes sense. Good to know, thanks!
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Feb 11, 2018 03:14
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I don’t think it’s Bromide drag, more likely the haloing effect that is pretty common with Rodinal stand developing between areas of high contrast. I got sick of seeing that effect myself and just do standard processing with 1:50 dilutions these days.
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Feb 11, 2018 04:59
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Bromide drag tends to show up as white streaks, no? This is more of a circular foggy halo effect. My next roll I'll shoot some more high contrast stuff and try a more standard development.
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Feb 11, 2018 05:05
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They both come out as bright streaks or spots, bromide drag will characteristically come from the edge of the film, almost like a curtain. Problems specifically with stand development will be localised to edges of high contrast within the photo and not associated with the physical edges of the film.
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Feb 11, 2018 05:11
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Why do people do stand development with modern films when known dev times exist using modern developers? I honestly don't see how 5-10 minutes with an inversion every 60 seconds is much worse than dealing with the negative effects of stand dev.
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Feb 11, 2018 07:05
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- Taming excessive contrast - Easy way of dealing with unusual pushes - Good for processing expired film
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Feb 11, 2018 10:07
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because it's good + cool
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Feb 11, 2018 10:25
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I just thought it was a thing to try out and a way to stretch my dev chems when I wasn't sure if there was an easy/cheap way to get more. 
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Feb 11, 2018 11:11
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I got exactly 4 negatives with bromide drag in the many years I used stand development. Agitation is dumb and for nerds.
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Feb 12, 2018 03:24
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