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8-bit Miniboss posted:It was talked about a few pages back. Last I heard it was YMMV when they started the program but apparently some of the salespeople didn’t get the memo according to Gamers Nexus. Should be fine now but I don’t know what’s the minimum they’re looking for to get the reduced price. Microcenter Dallas isn't doing it anymore. They said they lowered the card prices and the website reflects the accurate in-store price. Great an $1100 video card.
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Feb 10, 2018 17:58
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Harminoff posted:My case fans are starting to get pretty loud during boot so I think it's time to replace them. I'm fond of the noctua redux fans. Corsair has some cheap two packs as well. there's also that one artic cooler/cougar 4-5 fan pack.
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Feb 10, 2018 19:16
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So the EVGA G3s might astonishingly become *cheaper* in the near future. EVGA is launching the "G1+," just to confuse the hell out of everyone who'll think "G1+" isn't as good as "G3" because "numbr iz bigr."  https://www.techpowerup.com/241401/evga-introduces-their-latest-g1-power-supplies
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Feb 10, 2018 23:16
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Trying to pick a Z370 motherboard. I don't need many features just a mid range for a 8700K. The recommended ones in the OP are expensive, just after good for AIO and m2 support. Thinking about the Asus TUF Z370 as it's on the cheaper end but still mid range. The STRIX set look good but it's quite a price jump here.
Carecat fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Feb 11, 2018 |
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Feb 11, 2018 17:27
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My FreeNAS has been intermitently hard locking for a while now. I suspected heat-related hardware faults and replaced the aging fans with Noctuas. That seemed to clear things up for a while, but now I'm getting faults again. I've decided to replace the motherboard, CPU and RAM; even if I was right and it was an airflow issue, something seems to have heatstroke. Anyway, I'd like a sanity check on the brain transplant I've picked out. What country are you in?  What are you using the system for? - NAS (currently 4TB ZFS on FreeNAS, looking to expand to 8TB in next year or so) - Also hosting Emby, Logitech Media Server, and a print server, all through plugins/jails. I'd like the option to move some/all of those into Docker Containers at some point. (FreeNAS does this by running Docker in a Linux VM via bhyve.) Therefore, I've spec'ed out 16GB RAM. What's your budget? $500-600 is about right. I can swing more, but I'm also bitter about having to spend this on a hardware refresh and not a new iPad or something. https://pcpartpicker.com/user/pgroce2/saved/#view=TBDd6h Thanks for any thoughts you may have.
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Feb 11, 2018 20:21
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Looked up my model 1070 (the EVGA 8GB Superclocked 08G-P4-6173-KB) and it's going for as high as $1,500  Listed mine on Craigslist for $700. Hopefully I can sell it at that price. There barely seem to be any available and some of the ones that are (that I saw on eBay) are going for around that. If I can get rid of it at that price, that'll cover a lot of the cost of this 17" i7 16GB RAM laptop I'm looking at.
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Feb 11, 2018 22:47
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Carecat posted:Trying to pick a Z370 motherboard. I don't need many features just a mid range for a 8700K. The recommended ones in the OP are expensive, just after good for AIO and m2 support. Thinking about the Asus TUF Z370 as it's on the cheaper end but still mid range. The STRIX set look good but it's quite a price jump here. The TUFs are more or less ASUS' entry-level products now. They hosed around with their naming conventions. Their mid-range boards now are the "Prime" SKUs: the Z370-A and Z370-P. After those is the "ROG Strix" line, of which the Z370-E is the best option, because it shares the most options with the highest line, which is "ROG Maximus." ...yes, it's pretty clear ASUS has a twelve year old on the payroll.  I'd honestly recommend the Z370-A, because it has a good balance of value and 'niceties' only found on the higher-end SKUs. The Z370-A hides a lot of crappy stuff like a Realtek NIC, very old sound codec, and probably a bunch of other corners cut on the PCB. The -E is currently $160 with a rebate on Newegg. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Feb 11, 2018 |
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Feb 11, 2018 22:54
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Oh weird, I thought the TUF was equal as it was lot more expensive than the Z370-P. The A looks pretty good.
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Feb 11, 2018 23:13
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My current machine has been flaky as hell lately. Aside from inflated GPU prices, is there any reason not to build a new rig now?
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Feb 11, 2018 23:19
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dy. posted:My current machine has been flaky as hell lately. Aside from inflated GPU prices, is there any reason not to build a new rig now? Inflated RAM prices, mostly.
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Feb 11, 2018 23:19
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Rexxed posted:Inflated RAM prices, mostly. They might be coming down 'soonish.' China's evidently leaning *hard* on the fabs within their borders, and exerting international pressure on the Taiwanese and Korean fabs. I wouldn't expect $100-120 for 16GB DDR4-3200 again anytime soon, but $30-50 off what it is now over the next few months is feasible.
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Feb 11, 2018 23:29
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Rexxed posted:Inflated RAM prices, mostly.
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Feb 11, 2018 23:33
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Rexxed posted:No problem. If or when you get around to replacing the power supply you may find that the door latch mechanism on the side of the case will conflict with the depth of PSU you can fit in the case. I had this issue with the Optiplex 990 I have. It essentially means that modular power supplies are too deep to fit. I ended up getting this XFX TS 550 Watt for mine since it fits. It does mean you have extra cables to bundle up after everything is hooked up but it works well. There are other PSU options to look at if you decide to replace the stock one, but I just figured I'd mention it so you keep it in mind rather than just buying any old PSU. Modular PSUs are popular in the OP and the thread because you only have to plug in the cables you're using, but the plugs inside the PSU add the extra depth that makes them difficult to fit into an Optiplex case. Finally getting around to setting up the Optiplex 7010 and went to order this PSU and it's out of stock everywhere that I looked. Can anyone recommend a new PSU that'll support a GPU AND fit into the Dell case? Thanks!
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Feb 11, 2018 23:36
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TraderStav posted:Finally getting around to setting up the Optiplex 7010 and went to order this PSU and it's out of stock everywhere that I looked. Can anyone recommend a new PSU that'll support a GPU AND fit into the Dell case? Is this what the interior of your 7010 looks like?  Because if so, that's a non-standard and probably proprietary PSU on the bottom. It also appears that you would need a low-profile GPU, which makes your life easier, because most 1050Tis don't need a supplemental six-pin power lead, and those that do are usually the overpriced ~overclocked~ models that have been taken just enough out-of-spec that the power connector is an insurance policy.
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Feb 11, 2018 23:44
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IIRC the Dells (the full sized tower ones that is, the SFF ones don't fit ATX PSUs at all) fit 140mm deep PSUs, eg: Corsair's CX/CXM/TXM, Bitfenix Formula Gold and Seasonic's Focus series for higher end units. It's also a fairly common size for low end power supplies.
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Feb 11, 2018 23:45
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Rageaholic Monkey posted:Is that why when I looked up prices for 32GB SDRAM to upgrade whatever laptop I get to, it was all $350+? That seemed way expensive. When I bought my 16GB DDR3 kit a couple years ago, I remember it being wayyyyyyyyyyy less. 16 is half as much memory as 32, obviously, but I don't remember it being anywhere near that much more. Yeah, I bought 16GB of DDR3 for $60 in 2016. You're looking at triple that for DDR4 now. It's memory provider collusion and shortages due to phone production, apparently. Like BIG HEADLINE said, it's expected to come down a bit, but it will probably not be as low as before. If it gets down to $100 for 16GB that would be more reasonable, it's about what I paid for DDR3 in 2014.
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Feb 11, 2018 23:50
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Is this what the interior of your 7010 looks like? Nope. More like this. https://kbimg.dell.com/library/KB/KNOWLEDGE_BUNDLE_GROUPS/ESUPPORT/7010MTodd1.JPG Going for a mid grade GPU for my son by the way. Nothing fancy and a low profile shouldn't be needed.
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Feb 12, 2018 00:01
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TraderStav posted:Nope. More like this. Ah, that's normal ATX - the EVGA G3 is about as small-form-factor as an ATX PSU can get, and the Seasonic Focus Plus is similar in dimensions. They're both also fully modular. Fake Edit: looked it up - the G3 is 5.91" long, and the Focus Plus is, too - they're no bigger than their fans, more or less. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Feb 12, 2018 |
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Feb 12, 2018 00:07
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Yes, but in the piece I quoted, due to the locking mechanism regular power supplies won't fit properly.
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Feb 12, 2018 00:09
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TraderStav posted:Yes, but in the piece I quoted, due to the locking mechanism regular power supplies won't fit properly. Regular power supplies fit, but you just have to select one that's not a too long. It's mostly modular ones that are extra long to fit in the sockets for the modular cables to plug into that don't fit. It's also not true for all of them. You can see in my Optiplex 990 I have an XFX TS in there and just have spaghetti extra power cables. The TS is about 5.5" long. It doesn't allow Dell's little other side power supply catch to work, but it does let the door catch work which is the important part. The PSU catch on the other side doesn't really matter because you screw the PSU into the case. You have about 6" from the rear of the case to the door latch so one that's just a little shorter than that should be okay to slide the PSU in.  edit: I'd get an EVGA G3 if you can, the XFX TS isn't an amazing PSU, I just bought it to be certain it would fit. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Feb 12, 2018 |
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Feb 12, 2018 00:29
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I don't think the G3 would fit, EVGA's site has it as 150mm deep. That tab basically allows for no extra leeway in depth.
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Feb 12, 2018 00:38
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Llamadeus posted:I don't think the G3 would fit, EVGA's site has it as 150mm deep. That tab basically allows for no extra leeway in depth. Let me check, I have a G3 I got on black friday to have spare, I'll put it in the Dell. edit: the EVGA G3 is just slightly too big to fit in there with the door latch mechanism. It looks like 5.5" is about the limit. That said, you can remove the door latch mechanism and fit larger PSUs in the case, but I can't really get it back in there with the PSU present. You'd be securing the door with a screw instead of the latch if you do. There's a threaded hole in the case and a hole in the door if you wanted to do that, but it may just be easier to get a smaller PSU. To remove the door latch mechanism you pop one end of the spring off the catch for it in the case, remove the front of the case (plastic tabs), then slide the optical drive out the front (pull down on blue plastic retention thing on the drive bay). Push down on the retention tab on the door latch slider and it slides forward and comes free. It can be put back easily but I can't get it back in the case with a power supply in there unfortunately. Some images: https://imgur.com/a/RfSo8 Rexxed fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Feb 12, 2018 |
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Feb 12, 2018 00:40
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Thanks, I just pulled the one from my sons busted PC and it looks like it'll fit. Now just hope it's not the failed part... https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817148038 I'll give it a go and see what happens!
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Feb 12, 2018 00:40
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so my mobo just died i guess. whats the difference between the i5-8600k and the i5-8400? why is tehre a 1ghz speed difference?
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Feb 12, 2018 01:03
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Forget I posted anything about the PSU, the one I have fits perfectly. Only knock is only two sata but for my sons PC it'll be just fine. Thanks! e: Oh, and as nice as they are, gently caress Dell for not letting me be able to mount a hard drive in here without the caddy. TraderStav fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Feb 12, 2018 |
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Feb 12, 2018 01:17
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Ramadu posted:so my mobo just died i guess. whats the difference between the i5-8600k and the i5-8400? why is tehre a 1ghz speed difference? there's not a 1ghz speed difference, the base clock is pretty useless of a metric at this point. use the ARK comparison on intel's site to really drill down the differences https://ark.intel.com/compare/126685,126687 Primarily the turbo frequency is 300mhz faster, it's overclockable, draws more power, and has some server tidbits enabled like vPro and poo poo that you may or may not give a crap about
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Feb 12, 2018 01:27
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TraderStav posted:Forget I posted anything about the PSU, the one I have fits perfectly. Only knock is only two sata but for my sons PC it'll be just fine. Yeah those caddies are annoying but cheap on ebay if you need one. I 3d printed some compatible ones a while back for some SSD upgrades in an office (well, I just used removable adhesive for most of the SSDs, but https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1207008 works pretty well for 2.5" disks).
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Feb 12, 2018 01:28
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Sniep posted:there's not a 1ghz speed difference, the base clock is pretty useless of a metric at this point. So talk to me like i'm a toddler. Whats the difference? because a 100 dollar difference is a lot to me due to other circumstances but i need a computer. I had the last one (the old 2500k/570/8gb goonstation) for 8 years and id like something to last me about as long.
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Feb 12, 2018 01:29
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Ramadu posted:So talk to me like i'm a toddler. Whats the difference? because a 100 dollar difference is a lot to me due to other circumstances but i need a computer. I had the last one (the old 2500k/570/8gb goonstation) for 8 years and id like something to last me about as long. 1) Ignore the base clock, just consider the Turbo speed to be the chip's speed. The 8600K is 300mhz faster without overclocking, and then can go way faster with overclocking and appropriate cooling bolted on. (The turbo speed is the speed 1 core will run at full-bore, and if all 6 cores are pegged, it's a few hundred mhz less than that per core) 2) The 8600K can be overclocked. If you don't care about overclocking it, then you probably don't see justified for it to draw 1.5x the power / generate 1.5x as much heat either, which it does. that's pretty much it. the server-y bits on the bottom don't look incredibly important, no HT or anything. the i5-8400 is fuckin great so unless the above things are important to you just save the cash and get that.
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Feb 12, 2018 01:42
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Ramadu posted:So talk to me like i'm a toddler. Whats the difference? because a 100 dollar difference is a lot to me due to other circumstances but i need a computer. I had the last one (the old 2500k/570/8gb goonstation) for 8 years and id like something to last me about as long. If you're interested in overclocking, get the 8600K. If you're not, get the 8400, but then take a peek inside your BIOS once everything is set up and see if there's an option to tune your CPU to respond like it has a TDP (see the column on that image) of 95W instead of 65W. That will force the chip to run at its 'turbo' frequencies by default (but speedstep will bring your cores to idle, so you don't have to worry about it frying your chip). Alternatively... https://www.techbargains.com/deal/168462/alienware-aurora-deals Take advantage of that, and just scale down the GPU to what's affordable to you.
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Feb 12, 2018 02:15
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So here's a completely noobish question (it's been a long time since I upgraded my system); is there any chance at being able to just boot up Windows same as always after a big system upgrade (motherboard, cpu) or does it more or less require a fresh Windows install?
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Feb 12, 2018 03:22
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Your Computer posted:So here's a completely noobish question (it's been a long time since I upgraded my system); is there any chance at being able to just boot up Windows same as always after a big system upgrade (motherboard, cpu) or does it more or less require a fresh Windows install? Windows 8 and 10 are pretty good at booting off of completely new hardware. You're not guaranteed anything, but I've had a SSD installed on an old AMD E-350 move to an old Intel Core 2 Duo system then to an i3-2120 system and work normally. That's one install with three different chipsets and CPU architectures.
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Feb 12, 2018 03:33
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Ideally I'd love to just keep my current Windows 7 installation but I've realized that might be wishful thinking  I ask because as much as I don't want Windows 10, if I need to do a full reinstall anyway I might as well get it over with. Don't suppose it's still possible to get W10 for free?
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Feb 12, 2018 03:38
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Prime same day delivery should be illegal...
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Feb 12, 2018 03:39
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Your Computer posted:Ideally I'd love to just keep my current Windows 7 installation but I've realized that might be wishful thinking Windows 10 free upgrades are officially over but you can still do them last I checked, which was last month. Since windows 10 is more of an advertising platform than an operating system to MS's bottom line they want everyone using it. I'm still on Windows 7 on my main PC but I've used 8 and 10 on enough secondary machines that I'll upgrade when I really really have to.
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Feb 12, 2018 03:44
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Your Computer posted:Ideally I'd love to just keep my current Windows 7 installation but I've realized that might be wishful thinking Unfortunately it is wishful thinking, because every CPU using the Z270 or Z370 platform was designed to work with Win 10. Z270 boards could work with Win 7, but it took a LOT of adjustments and sacrifices. I have every intention of going to Win 10 on my next build, but I'm still on Win 7 on my main machine, because it's predictable and I know how to make this poo poo work. I patch all the holes I can, and put duct tape over the rest of them.
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Feb 12, 2018 04:08
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Rexxed posted:Windows 10 free upgrades are officially over but you can still do them last I checked, which was last month. Are they only of the "upgrade to W10 from within W7" type or could I somehow get my hands on a key? If it's the former, what would the upgrade process look like? Update to W10 on old hardware, install new hardware, hope it boots? If I can get a key I assume the best process would be to install the new hardware and boot from W10 installation media (and use the key). Honestly one of the reasons I've been reluctant to upgrade to W10 is the fear that something might go wrong during the update, but I guess if my alternative (or only option) is doing a fresh reinstall it doesn't really matter v  v Still not thrilled to go over to W10 though.
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Feb 12, 2018 04:20
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Your Computer posted:Are they only of the "upgrade to W10 from within W7" type or could I somehow get my hands on a key? If it's the former, what would the upgrade process look like? Update to W10 on old hardware, install new hardware, hope it boots? If I can get a key I assume the best process would be to install the new hardware and boot from W10 installation media (and use the key). I think both ways still work. You could install Windows 10 on your new system and use a valid Win 7 key (there's a goon in SA-Mart selling them for $25 or so), or you could upgrade 7 to 10 on your current hardware, which would probably require activation with a new key for your new hardware. You could also attempt to boot your current system with windows 7 on your new hardware and then upgrade to windows 10. That might not work but mostly because booting to Windows 7 on new hardware may not work.
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Feb 12, 2018 04:39
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pgroce posted:What country are you in? Bumping this since I want to make the buy today or tomorrow. This is the OP recommendation, but I’m not sure if it’s still the best choice if I’m also transcoding media on it.
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Feb 12, 2018 13:20
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Rexxed posted:I think both ways still work. You could install Windows 10 on your new system and use a valid Win 7 key (there's a goon in SA-Mart selling them for $25 or so), or you could upgrade 7 to 10 on your current hardware, which would probably require activation with a new key for your new hardware. You could also attempt to boot your current system with windows 7 on your new hardware and then upgrade to windows 10. That might not work but mostly because booting to Windows 7 on new hardware may not work. Here's a dumb thought; could I install Windows 10 on a separate partition in my current setup as a dual boot first and then upgrade the hardware? Or is that opening a whole 'nother can of worms?  My idea is that I could then both check if W7 works on the new hardware and have a W10 installation ready if it doesn't.
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Feb 12, 2018 14:50
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