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Thinning with thinner seems a fair bit different from thinning with water
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Feb 10, 2018 18:39
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| # ? May 17, 2024 23:25 |
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Thinning with water is different than thinning with thinner. For Water Based Acrylics: The paint you buy in the pot starts too thick ON PURPOSE! This increases the value you get in your bottle. Adding water, gets it to the correct consistency to work with. The paints are formulated to work in this fashion. The binders in the paint are what makes it paint, and adding too much water will result in it no longer acting correctly. If you see you paint beading up or uncontrollably flowing into details, you have too much water. Vallejo Airbrush Thinner: used to thin paints for airbrushing, but also changes their characteristics. It dramatically speeds up drying, for example. Personally, I only use this to help break down just dried paint like an eraser. Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver: I think this is made of water, soap, and a little alcohol. I love this stuff as it takes thick Vallejo Model Color paints and makes them go on like a dream. Acrylic Mediums: it's just clear paint! Water, binder, and no pigment. Used to make a paint more transparent, but still act like paint. If you added too much water, you can counteract by adding some medium. Alcohol Based Acrylics: #1 Rule: They aren't water based! Don't treat them the same! Do not mix them with water! Tamiya Thinner for Tamiya paints: Use this to thin your paints, and to clean your brushes/airbrush. Protip: when you get Tamiya paints, just immediately fill the paint bottle to 95% full with thinner. This is advice I got from a video and it really works. Oil paints: Thin/Clean brushes with Odorless Mineral Spirits (I think this is White Spirits in Europe.) Lacquers: Thin/clean brushes with lacquer thinner. Enamels: Thin/Clean with enamel thinner (odorless if you can find it, MIG makes one.) Further point: These different paints don't all play nicely with each other. In general the order you would use these is: 1. Lacquers 2. Enamels 3. Acrylics 4. Acrylic Varnish (e.g. Future) 5. Oil/Enamel washes 6. Acrylic Varnish 7. Pigments 8. Final Varnish Edit: this is how I understand paints. If someone knows more than me, please set me straight. I have been using water based acrylics for 10 years of painting, oils for 3 years (mostly washes), and enamels/lacquer for like 2 months. Vvvv: maybe 1 drop Flow Improver to 2 drops paint, and I use a wet pallette. dexefiend fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Feb 10, 2018 |
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Feb 10, 2018 19:38
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That was really helpful, thanks. Can I ask what kind of ratios you use when thinning VMC with flow aid?
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Feb 10, 2018 19:48
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Still got some clean-up and the base rim, but I'm basically done with this Eldrad. My first model with this much detail.
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Feb 11, 2018 03:22
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Tried doing some painting today for the first time in years. I wasn’t very good before but holy poo poo was it awful. I’m going to need practice just to get back to bad. I wish I could blame my brushes, and I do need some decent ones, but it’s mostly just lack of skill. Just have to keep at it I guess.
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Feb 11, 2018 03:32
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mango sentinel posted:Still got some clean-up and the base rim, but I'm basically done with this Eldrad. My first model with this much detail.
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Feb 11, 2018 03:38
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mango sentinel posted:Still got some clean-up and the base rim, but I'm basically done with this Eldrad. My first model with this much detail. God drat that's clean. What did you wash the sword with?
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Feb 11, 2018 04:16
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Thanks everyone! I used Drakenhof Nightshade to give the sword a more of a blue sheen to kinda tie it to the soulstones.
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Feb 11, 2018 04:23
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Man figuring out plastic glue was a bit of a PITA, but I think the applicator on this citadel stuff is why it was so annoying. Salvaged the first dwarf I sort of messed up, and learned that these models need to have the torso attached before the head.
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Feb 11, 2018 05:48
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    Eight hours of hard work later and I'm finally done with my Daemon Prince!
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Feb 11, 2018 06:17
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I've painted three gaunts now and I'm relatively happy with the results/colour scheme I went for though obviously there's lots and lots of room for improvement. Followed the Duncan videos as best I could. Is getting good at painting something that just happens with lots and lots of practice or should I be looking for and practicing specific techniques? I've got a basic understanding now of the different types of paints, washing, edge highlighting etc ... I assume stuff like getting steadier with the brush just happens naturally over time.
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Feb 11, 2018 10:40
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Entropy238 posted:I've painted three gaunts now and I'm relatively happy with the results/colour scheme I went for though obviously there's lots and lots of room for improvement. Followed the Duncan videos as best I could. As a fellow beginner: By far the most important part to brush steadyization is bracing your elbows. Your wrists are weak, trembly joints that are worthless on their own; if you put your elbows firmly on the table, or brace your hands against each other so they're trembling in unison, your brush stability goes through the roof. You don't need to do this all the time! I only do it when I'm doing something that needs fine control. Also: Closing one eye eliminates your depth perception. It's useful to do sometimes when focusing on a very tiny part. My own experience also tells me that there is no reason why you can't pull off super advanced techniques and decent freehanding with only a few months practice. There is absolutely no reason you can't start on blends as soon as possible. If you make your peace with failing forward I'd advise pushing your horizons as rapidly as possible - some of my best minis are the results of horrible disasters which I managed to salvage. By far the biggest thing that just plain raw experience has gotten me is an understanding of paint consistency and how to organize and plan putting a miniature together. Otherwise, there's no reason you can't just do super advanced stuff. Check out Painting Buddha in a couple of months when you've got the Duncan style down solid - he's done a long form tutorial on super advanced and finicky blends that isn't actually that difficult to do if you want to put in the time to make a mini look really special. I applied that technique to a bunch of terminators and they absolutely pop amidst the rest of my army. I've only been at this, what, eight months and already I'm doing stuff like that Gulliman conversion up there. Push yourself and embrace your mistakes - trying to paint yourself out of a corner is a great learning opportunity. Also, if you can, try to find an excuse to work with as many different colours as possible. Colour is fascinating because of how much of it exists in relation to other colours and you won't really get that until you've played around with it. I've won two second prizes in painting contests already, and two Armies on Parade awards. I'm not saying that to brag - I'm not particularly 'talented' or anything. It's all purely down to the attitude of always pushing myself. Thanqol fucked around with this message at 11:18 on Feb 11, 2018 |
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Feb 11, 2018 11:15
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Progress on my Shaltari fleet but i'm terribly undecided on the Voidgate "paddles". As of now they got a black wash and golden edge. I could see a turquoise glowing surface working too though. Or a golden surface with a glowing edge. Anyone got opinions or suggestions? 
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Feb 11, 2018 13:26
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Thanqol posted:As a fellow beginner: This is all very helpful thanks. I learned very quickly that having a way to stabilise your hands for fine bits is important when I was edge highlighting. I've got about 120 minis to paint (30+ Gargoyles, 30 Termagants, 30 Genestealers + other assorted creatures) and I'm happy to take my time with it and learn. I want to get a lot of practice in on the smaller ones where gently caress ups are less noticeable before I move on to the big bugs like Mawlocs and Hive Tyrants. I'm going to keep at it and hope for the best!
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Feb 11, 2018 13:34
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Bistromatic posted:Progress on my Shaltari fleet but i'm terribly undecided on the Voidgate "paddles". As of now they got a black wash and golden edge. Personally I like the muted effect of your current approach. Add some highlights and you get a really nice color palette with the turquoise serving as a contrasting color and the gold supplementing the purple in a really refined and cohesive way.
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Feb 11, 2018 15:41
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Entropy238 posted:I've painted three gaunts now and I'm relatively happy with the results/colour scheme I went for though obviously there's lots and lots of room for improvement. Followed the Duncan videos as best I could. Think of painting as a giant collection of techniques. The more you paint a specific style the more comfortable you will be with it. For example I sucked at edge highlights and airbrushing with my first Space Marine; I was really good at blending and washes from all the Orks I had painted years ago but I hadn't really done hard edges much. Eleven Primaris models later I feel far more comfortable and the results are much, much cleaner. You will develop a brush technique that works for you. Where new techniques come into play is when you want to add new components into a model. For example I had never done power swords before so I had to learn a good method with wet blending and three swords later I feel good. I had never used crackle medium before but now I have a good level of control over how the Agrellan Earth will form. The Lieutenant was the first time I had done cloth like that in decades, but I used the same wet blending from the sword and it worked out well. The most important thing I feel you can do is develop good fundamental habits and maintain consistency. Obsessively clean off mold lines and drill out barrels where appropriate. Thin your paints and get used to working with a consistent thickness (or cheat like I do and use airbrush paint). Think about your approach to minimize rework, possibly separating models before painting to make things easier. Focus on using a coherent, consistent method that won't drive you crazy if you're doing a full army. Use good brushes and keep them maintained. Stuff like that. The more you paint the easier it gets.
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Feb 11, 2018 16:00
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:The more you paint the easier it gets. I painted a whole slew of Necron vehicles and, surprise, surprise, by the end of that process I got really good at edge highlighting. Also, don't be afraid to try new products or techniques. And scour the internet for videos - chances are good that every product or technique you use will have an associated YouTube video or three giving a really nice demonstration. I really pushed my envelope in terms of realistic weathering when I started painting WW2 vehicles, and it paid off - these were some of my first attempts:   Don't be afraid to just try stuff. Even if you screw up, you'll have improved.
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Feb 11, 2018 17:48
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I've recently exhausted my supply of the old Citadel foundation paint Charadon Granite, and I'm really missing it. Googling around, I can see that this was a hot topic in 2012/13, with several people recommending Vallejo Heavy Charcoal, but noting that it lacked those all-important green/brown tones that made Charadon so versatile. Has anyone produced a better replacement since?
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Feb 11, 2018 22:04
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P3 Thornwood Greenwood plus a little black is probably your best bet
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Feb 11, 2018 22:09
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Got all the cores done over the weekend, now i have about two weeks for hundreds of little dots to get them ready for demo duty at a local con. I'll also be doing a step by step by step guide like for my other fleet.
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Feb 11, 2018 22:16
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:The more you paint the easier it gets. Thanks. What I'm finding the most trouble with at the moment is getting the right consistency on my paints. Here's gaunt 4:   It's more or less hit or mess whether it's nice when it goes on. I think I have a tendency to overthin them and then I get ugly blobs in places. Are there any hard and fast ways to tell whether the paint is the right consistency on the palette?
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Feb 11, 2018 22:27
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Do a little test stroke on your thumbnail before you hit the actual mini.
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Feb 11, 2018 22:31
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Bistromatic posted:Do a little test stroke on your thumbnail before you hit the actual mini. Genius. Thanks!
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Feb 11, 2018 22:41
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Any tips for doing the base layer of any reaper bones minis? I got a bunch for cheap but heard they don't take well to thinning until the first layer has dried. Do you just put the paint straight on them but he careful so it doesn't cake?
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Feb 11, 2018 22:55
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Entropy238 posted:Genius. Thanks! I mix everything on a piece of tile. Helps me with consistency. Another thing is to use dropper bottles so I have the same ratio every time.
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Feb 11, 2018 23:14
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Sharkopath posted:Any tips for doing the base layer of any reaper bones minis? I got a bunch for cheap but heard they don't take well to thinning until the first layer has dried. Do you just put the paint straight on them but he careful so it doesn't cake? I prime them with an airbrush and they paint normally after that. They don't like rattlecan primer. Something in it starts to make them gooey.
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Feb 11, 2018 23:16
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I just tried the Vallejo Metal Color Gold on the Stormcast hero from Silver Tower, and I love the color. But I'm kind of at a loss of how to shade/highlight it. It's gorgeous but a very pale/real gold color, nothing like the normal fantasy ranges golds I'm used to. Anyone have experience using it on their mans?
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Feb 11, 2018 23:53
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I generally use VGC glorious gold as a basecoat and highlight with VMC gold. Or VGC glorious gold + brassy brass as a basecoat, highlight with glorious gold and further highlight with gold. You can highlight VMC gold with VMC silver, it looks nice but it's a tad unrealistic since actual gold's sheen is yellow, not white. Light brown washes are good for a basic gold look, but you can get some neat results with pruple/green/red washes. e: I've never painted stormcast so I dunno how those recipes would work for capturing their look. Also I read your post as model color and not metal color 
The Moon Monster fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Feb 12, 2018 |
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Feb 12, 2018 00:26
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Are there any particular YouTube channels I should be looking at for learning techniques? I've been watching some of the Warhammer TV videos, but I don't know who else I should be paying attention to.
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Feb 12, 2018 03:32
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If you have an airbrush and can handle an unholy amount of dude-bro talk, Next Level Painting is really good. I also really like Sorastro, but he does mostly Star Wars stuff.
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Feb 12, 2018 04:29
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Privateer Press also has their own technique demonstration videos to check out.
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Feb 12, 2018 04:37
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darnon posted:Privateer Press also has their own technique demonstration videos to check out. Yeah but they're hosted by Jackson Galaxy instead of Duncan.
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Feb 12, 2018 06:16
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Funzo posted:Are there any particular YouTube channels I should be looking at for learning techniques? I've been watching some of the Warhammer TV videos, but I don't know who else I should be paying attention to. Painting Buddha, who I posted a bit before, is rather boring but really good for advanced blending and layering.
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Feb 12, 2018 06:45
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If that's your thing there's also a small community of people painting live on twitch. Personally i hang out at this guys streams quite a bit: https://www.twitch.tv/piratemonkeypainting I should stream again some time as well but endless shaltari dota would be pretty boring
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Feb 12, 2018 06:59
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Is it cool to ask about 3D printing here for purposes of terrain and what not, or is that  territory?
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Feb 12, 2018 19:23
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Japanese miniatures twitter is crazy https://twitter.com/rokubunnnoichi/status/825337569046982656
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Feb 12, 2018 20:08
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I started playing with Les Bursley washes over the weekend. Previously I had only ever used Citadel. Les’s are definitely different; I imagine the Les recipe is more like a glaze? They definitely tint the areas around, but certainly concentrate pigment in recesses as well. I haven’t done much glaze work yet, so I don’t know what those feel like. For anyone that has used both: am I accurate? Is the Les recipe more like a glaze than Citadel washes?
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Feb 12, 2018 20:30
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Guy Goodbody posted:Japanese miniatures twitter is crazy This poo poo always blows my mind. The attention to detail is astounding. https://twitter.com/rokubunnnoichi/status/946995979810570241 Dude drew that poo poo with pens and pencils. 
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Feb 12, 2018 20:30
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crime fighting hog posted:Is it cool to ask about 3D printing here for purposes of terrain and what not, or is that Ask away.
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Feb 12, 2018 21:47
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So I'm a complete dummy when it comes to any 3D printing stuff but there's a community center here in town that lets you bring in designs and you pay pennies on the dollar for them to make it for you. I'm highly interested in doing so for terrain and see a ton of blueprints online for such stuff. Is there a preferred site anybody here can recommend? Anyone tried it and can tell me how it went? I don't game much anymore but would love to have some dungeon mazes and stuff as well for RPGs. E: I assume actually buying a printer good enough to make this stuff would run me thousands of bucks, right? EE: I found the 3D printing thread in DIY so maybe I'll poo poo that one up instead of this one. Sorry! crime fighting hog fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Feb 12, 2018 |
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Feb 12, 2018 22:25
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