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Molten Llama posted:I've got a Haier ventless combo washer/dryer and the elbow on one of the supply hoses busted open. I thought this would be an easy fix, but the owner's manual specifies it uses metric threads at the inlets (and thus needs a hose that's metric only at the machine end). As I am in the glorious USA, metric is not our normal plumbing system of choice. Try just matching up the male threads. If the threads intertwine between 2 male ends, then you know that the thread pitch is the same. Drag the male end of your garden hose indoors. Does its threads match up with the attachment on your combo unit?
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Jan 27, 2018 01:21
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I'd like to add an adaptor to my single kitchen faucet to run a portable dishwasher, but I'd also like to add a spray nozzle to it. Is this possible to do without having to buy a new faucet or swapping the adapters out as needed?
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Jan 29, 2018 02:12
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Like, one of those installed spray nozzles? Those connect down below and you should be just fine.
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Jan 29, 2018 03:32
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RandomPauI posted:I'd like to add an adaptor to my single kitchen faucet to run a portable dishwasher, but I'd also like to add a spray nozzle to it. Is this possible to do without having to buy a new faucet or swapping the adapters out as needed? You'd need a 4 hole sink, a faucet with a separate sprayer, then replace the aerator with the portable dishwasher adapter.
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Jan 29, 2018 04:23
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RandomPauI posted:I'd like to add an adaptor to my single kitchen faucet to run a portable dishwasher, but I'd also like to add a spray nozzle to it. Is this possible to do without having to buy a new faucet or swapping the adapters out as needed? GE says don't do it: http://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-support-search-content?contentId=22374
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Jan 30, 2018 00:57
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Bitch that's why you get the braided steel sink sprayer hoses. gently caress that rigid plastic ugliness. Nah I totally get it. My current sink has a pull-out head/sprayer, but also a separate adapter faucet for the dishwasher.
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Jan 30, 2018 01:01
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RandomPauI posted:I'd like to add an adaptor to my single kitchen faucet to run a portable dishwasher, but I'd also like to add a spray nozzle to it. Is this possible to do without having to buy a new faucet or swapping the adapters out as needed? I thought of another way to do it. Get a pullout fixture so you got your sprayer on the aerator arm, then add a single temp faucet for the dishwasher. The problem is that most single temp faucets are effing expensive. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Jan 30, 2018 |
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Jan 30, 2018 02:34
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Any thoughts on this kitchen faucet? Turns out it's really hard figure out which faucets are good. https://www.homedepot.com/p/KRAUS-C..._-205331103-_-N
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Jan 31, 2018 18:34
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Any thoughts on this kitchen faucet? Turns out it's really hard figure out which faucets are good. It looks like a decent quality faucet, but you'll need to wear kitchen checks while you use it. Post a pic of this pls.
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Jan 31, 2018 19:14
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Any thoughts on this kitchen faucet? Turns out it's really hard figure out which faucets are good. I don't recognise the brand but always check for parts availability. Because it won't matter how nice (or exotic ) your faucet is if you can't get replacement parts for it easily.
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Feb 1, 2018 14:17
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Why is Pex so good if I have to buy a $60 crimping tool? Where are the savings? I just want to move a washing machine valve 2' over.
FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Feb 3, 2018 |
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Feb 3, 2018 23:10
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FogHelmut posted:Why is Pex so good if I have to buy a $60 crimping tool? Where are the savings? I just want to move a washing machine valve 2' over. 2 feet? Just get longer hoses.
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Feb 4, 2018 00:29
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kid sinister posted:2 feet? Just get longer hoses. I'm stacking the washer and dryer, and I don't like the valves being against the wall on the far side of the appliances. I'm putting them in a reachable location. I got an open box Sharkbite brand Pocket Crimper for $12.38. You need to use a vise grip for leverage, but it works.
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Feb 4, 2018 00:41
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FogHelmut posted:Why is Pex so good if I have to buy a $60 crimping tool? Where are the savings? I just want to move a washing machine valve 2' over. You can rent the pex tool from home depot usually. Just prefab all your crimps then go rent the cripper and do it all in an hour or two.
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Feb 4, 2018 02:38
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Gothmog1065 posted:Quick (hopefully) question and answer. Back again! Finally got under the house and it's about as bad as I thought. So out of the ground comes a 4" cast iron pipe. They used one of these to couple some 4" black pipe, a few 45's, cumulating into this:  And yes it's completely glued together. The toilet is offset from the pipe by a few inches (no measurements. 3 or so inches). Is there something I can replace this with fairly easily? Looking at this on the toilet end and something like this on the cast, with some 45's inbetween? I have the pipe and potentially the 45's from when I was putting in my storm water drains. Do I need to put anything else between the cast and pvc?
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Feb 7, 2018 00:54
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I have a problem with my well. I have a cabin place that we winterize and let it freeze. I came up this weekend, but turned on the heat a few days before I went up and it was nice and toasty inside. The well is one that does NOT have a pitless adapter; out from the top of the well a pipe runs into the house. This pipe freezing has never been a problem, however this is the coldest its been while we have been operating it (-11F). This morning the person I am up here with got up before me and used the bathroom. I went in about ~5 minutes after and noticed the well running noise, but not the gurggling of water; the pipe froze. My questions:
e: pics  
horse_ebookmarklet fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Feb 10, 2018 |
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Feb 10, 2018 18:47
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Is there a way to stop ball valves from leaking up the stem beyond tightening the packing nut? Like if the packing nut is already tight for example?
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Feb 11, 2018 01:26
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DreadLlama posted:Is there a way to stop ball valves from leaking up the stem beyond tightening the packing nut? Like if the packing nut is already tight for example? Replace the packing?
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Feb 11, 2018 02:00
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I think you'll find the well cap clearly says "SNOWWIS," that's your problem. You've got to cover it in snow.
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Feb 12, 2018 18:32
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Plumbing thread, help! There's a river in my shower drain. For the last few days I've been trying to fix a particularly tenacious blockage in my shower drain. A few days ago I thought I'd fixed it but the problem came back. The first 'fix' had a huge amount of leaves come spewing up out of the drain which was weird but I figured they must've accumulated in there over time somehow; blown in through the window and down the shower drain once a month or something. Today I managed to get another big unclog and what came up was very confusing. I'm looking at leaves, silt, and what are clearly small stones like you'd find in the bottom of a river. Most of them are about fingernail-sized and there's a lot of them. Far more than I could've logically carried into the shower with me, unless I'm just covered in stones all the time and have somehow missed it. It honestly looks like some sort of river has been running through there. Is this a normal shower drain thing, or do I have a more serious problem?
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Feb 13, 2018 03:59
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Let me see if I follow: You're getting rocks in your (presumably indoor) shower drain line? And you're pulling lithic objects out of the drain? And leaves? This is inside a house? With a roof & walls & appropriate weather coverings?
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Feb 13, 2018 04:15
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That is correct. We're near the city green belt and leaves blow in through open windows fairly frequently but the stones are a total goddam mystery to me. The stones all came up through the drain after a couple of minutes going at it with a plunger. I suspect there's more of them down there -- it's draining now, but still slowly.
SurreptitiousMuffin fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Feb 13, 2018 |
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Feb 13, 2018 04:28
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Tree roots broke the sewer line, sounds like.
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Feb 13, 2018 14:02
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Sounds like it’s time to get a scope camera in there.
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Feb 13, 2018 15:24
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Or you've got an rear end in a top hat crow dropping rocks down the vent pipe
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Feb 13, 2018 20:04
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angryrobots posted:Or you've got an rear end in a top hat crow dropping rocks down the vent pipe We're near a large bird park, and the birds fly free at night. There's one particular sort of parrot that likes to hang around our house that is exactly the sorta rear end in a top hat bird to do that. There's a breeding pair of them that hang around on the roof, near the vent pipe.
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Feb 14, 2018 00:00
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I mean I really hope it's the parrot thing because I'm dirt poor and 100% cannot afford to get a sewer line repaired. I did wonder why our roof specifically was so special to those drat birds.
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Feb 14, 2018 00:18
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Bore scopes aren't very expensive anymore--you can get a 30' borescope for less then $40. (https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=borescope+waterproof) The only problem is the cable for most the bore scopes, especially the long ones, is flimsy and unless you get very lucky would be very hard to stuff down your drain. Leaving you to figure out how to get the scope to the clog. If you have a wire snake you can duct tape the scope to the snake. And you might just be lucky enough that you won't need to go very far down the drain. Seeing as how you are pulling out debris with the plunger--I think that would indicate the clog isn't too far down the drain. If it is birds messing with your vent pipe--a stainless steel O clamp with some aluminum screening should be enough to keep the birds out.
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Feb 14, 2018 00:34
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Most companies will charge to put a camera down becuase the heads are some what fragiile. Most companies will try the snake first.
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Feb 14, 2018 02:34
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How big is your vent coming out of the roof? My main vent stack is slightly bigger than 4 inches on the inside and had several inches of mud blocking the vent. I couldn't clear it with a manual 3/8" snake, I ended up dragging my wheeled machine onto my roof along with a garden hose. At least I hope it was mud.
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Feb 14, 2018 08:14
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The Gardenator posted:How big is your vent coming out of the roof? My main vent stack is slightly bigger than 4 inches on the inside and had several inches of mud blocking the vent. I couldn't clear it with a manual 3/8" snake, I ended up dragging my wheeled machine onto my roof along with a garden hose. What machine do you use for mainlines? My work just bought me a Spartan 300. I am in love with spartan. Before that I was using a k-60 ridigid sectional. I hated it for the most part. It was light weight though.
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Feb 15, 2018 03:51
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Two full baths upstairs - one has great water pressure, the other only so-so. Enough to shower, but probably half the pressure of the other shower just on the other side of the wall. Is this a common and fixable problem?
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Feb 20, 2018 21:07
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After taking the old dishwasher out, it looks like my copper hot water supply line has been bent and the compression fitting leaked. I chopped off the old compression fitting and put on another one on a straight section of pipe, but it still leaks. Even wrapping it thoroughly in plumber's tape doesn't stop the leaking - any idea how to fix this? Is there another, better valve to use? Thanks for any suggestions. I'm getting sick of crawling under the house every time to turn the valve to verify a failure.
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Feb 21, 2018 03:33
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Jolly Jumbuck posted:After taking the old dishwasher out, it looks like my copper hot water supply line has been bent and the compression fitting leaked. I chopped off the old compression fitting and put on another one on a straight section of pipe, but it still leaks. Even wrapping it thoroughly in plumber's tape doesn't stop the leaking - any idea how to fix this? Is there another, better valve to use? You don't need to use teflon tape with compression fittings. With those, the ferrule deforms as you tighten the nut down, making the water tight seal. Which fitting leaked and where?
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Feb 21, 2018 03:57
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Turd Herder posted:What machine do you use for mainlines? My work just bought me a Spartan 300. I am in love with spartan. Before that I was using a k-60 ridigid sectional. I hated it for the most part. It was light weight though. Mine is a k-400 ridgid from Home Depot, not nearly as fancy as that k-60 or Spartan 300 you use. Although, I only use it for my home, because I figured it would be about the same to buy this machine as to pay a plumber to clear it. It has been definitely worth it as I am sure a plumber would have charged way over $400 to snake 2 toilets and the main vent stack on a roof. No snow where I live, so the roof is nearly flat where the vent stack is.
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Feb 21, 2018 20:01
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My buddy and have pulled the toilets in his house way too many times over the last nine years. Part of this is because we apparently can’t seat a wax ring to save our lives. The floor is level, the flange is straight and in good shape. We prop the toilet on 2x4s to line the t-bolts up before we drop it but we’re still going through 3-4 rings each time before the SOB stops leaking (or just leaks beneath the laminate  )We’re going for take #3 tonight. I’m going to clean the poo poo out of the toilet, warm and dry it with a heat gun and do the propping thing. Is there anything else (moar asscrack?) that I could do to push the odds I our favor?
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Feb 22, 2018 01:36
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Boys who love boys
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What makes you think the wax ring is the problem? Is the toilet cracked? I've seen hairline cracks cause leaks before.
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Feb 22, 2018 01:41
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kid sinister posted:What makes you think the wax ring is the problem? It seemed like the easiest thing for us to have hosed up, but now that you mentioned it it has continued to leak when not flushed... and the toilet/wax/flange should be ‘dry’ then, right? Hmm.
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Feb 22, 2018 01:46
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Also gently caress wax rings forever, long live rubber coated neoprene rings that don't deform if you accidentally tilt the toilet a tiny bit when installing by yourself.
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Feb 22, 2018 01:56
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The Gardenator posted:Mine is a k-400 ridgid from Home Depot, not nearly as fancy as that k-60 or Spartan 300 you use. Although, I only use it for my home, because I figured it would be about the same to buy this machine as to pay a plumber to clear it. It has been definitely worth it as I am sure a plumber would have charged way over $400 to snake 2 toilets and the main vent stack on a roof. No snow where I live, so the roof is nearly flat where the vent stack is. The 400 is still a decent machine for lighter use. I use a 400 at my last job a lot. Pulled a lot of wipes out of drains with it. Right now I have a k-380 (older version of the 400 i beleive) that ive used on light root clogs and its worked great.
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Feb 22, 2018 02:23
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