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Guy Goodbody posted:Japanese miniatures twitter is crazy Those are actually just photographs of normal Japanese apartments, classrooms and etc.
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Feb 12, 2018 23:05
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| # ? May 26, 2024 22:19 |
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Try https://www.thingiverse.com/for grabbing the files you need. Search there for OpenForge, there's tons of good models for tabletop RPG stuff. You can get a perfectly good printer for a few hundred bucks, but yes, the 3d printing thread is the place to look for that.
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Feb 12, 2018 23:16
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lil' book dude
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Feb 13, 2018 04:14
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Hey, is there any significant difference between using super glue and PVA to glue some cork to a base?
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Feb 13, 2018 04:19
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S.J. posted:Hey, is there any significant difference between using super glue and PVA to glue some cork to a base?
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Feb 13, 2018 04:58
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Ilor posted:Yeah, superglue is waterproof once dry. I meant, like, as far as the cork is concerned. I've not really used it before.
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Feb 13, 2018 05:24
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Since we're talking about basing, if I want to paint my base separately from my mini, how do I attach them at the end, once the base is painted? Do I just scratch away some paint to use plastic glue? Or is there another trick?
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Feb 13, 2018 05:33
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I'm heading to the local Dick Blick store tomorrow in search of some Series 7 brushes, and I was wondering if there are any other essentials I should grab while there? Currently I'm just using an army painter brush for most of my work and a detail brush for facial features, etc. I thin with water, and while I have a wet pallet, lately I've just been using a cheap wheel-tray thing for mixing paints. I've briefly experimented with lamian medium, but I haven't been overly impressed. I have a modest collection of citadel and vallejo paints, but my workspace is pretty small so I can't go nuts on different paints. I would like to try more blending techniques, is there an additive that will slow the drying process for these types of model paints?
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Feb 13, 2018 05:38
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Master's Brush Soap is good for brush cleanup if you don't have that. You can get retarder medium to slow drying. Vallejo airbrush flow improver also can work some to that effect while also providing thinning.
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Feb 13, 2018 05:44
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On the subject of glues. Is it actually better to use the plastic glue for putting together your plastic minis, or will super glue actually do just fine? I obviously know that the idea behind plastic glue is once it is set and cures, the pieces are more or less one piece. But I don't know whether super glue would have the same overall effect or not.
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Feb 13, 2018 05:53
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Beast Pussy posted:Since we're talking about basing, if I want to paint my base separately from my mini, how do I attach them at the end, once the base is painted? Do I just scratch away some paint to use plastic glue? Or is there another trick? I almost always make and paint bases totally separate from the mini, and whenever I do I pin them with at least one point of contact if not two or more. It's probably excessive but I like to ensure that there's a direct connection to the base itself as opposed to the basing material, and obviously the pin also works to generally secure the basing material even further. So, stick a pin in the mini's foot/feet, drill holes in the base and get a good dry fit, then slather a little super glue along the pin and bottom of the feet and jam it in real quick. This is kind of useless advice if you're using really solid basing material you can't punch a pin vise through like actual rock, but in that case your basing material is solid enough to just go ahead and glue the mini to it. Either way, probably go with super glue and not plastic glue.
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Feb 13, 2018 06:00
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Arthil posted:On the subject of glues. Is it actually better to use the plastic glue for putting together your plastic minis, or will super glue actually do just fine? I obviously know that the idea behind plastic glue is once it is set and cures, the pieces are more or less one piece. But I don't know whether super glue would have the same overall effect or not. Super glue is perfectly fine for assembling plastic models. It won't create the same type of bond as plastic would, as plastic basically melts both sides and causes them to fuse together, but it's much easier to separate pieces that have been super-glued together if you need to.
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Feb 13, 2018 06:10
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Yeah I think like 3/4 of the time I'm using super glue it's because I plan to break the bond later.
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Feb 13, 2018 07:29
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I don't know why anyone would willingly subject themselves to using super glue on a plastic kit when plastic glue exists. Madness.
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Feb 13, 2018 12:52
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I use plastic glue almost exclusively, only resorting to the super glue gel if something absolutely requires it.
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Feb 13, 2018 14:08
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:I don't know why anyone would willingly subject themselves to using super glue on a plastic kit when plastic glue exists. Madness. I do my assembly in the presence of living people, and don't want them to die from the toxic glue fumes that I am now immune to.
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Feb 13, 2018 14:46
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So I think Vallejo Metal Color Gold is too gold for the normal flesh shade type wash. Obviously that's before any cleanup, but it's bad nonetheless. This guy's going in the Bad Decisions Bucket, and I'm wondering if maybe this shade of gold wouldn't be better served with something more in the grey/black family of shading. Anyone worked with this paint before on mans?
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Feb 13, 2018 17:55
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S.J. posted:Hey, is there any significant difference between using super glue and PVA to glue some cork to a base? Nope. I used PVA to glue down bits of cork sheet to my bases for Infinity.
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Feb 13, 2018 19:32
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Dick Blick trip report: They don't stock the Series 7's. Ordered them and some flow improver and retarder from Amazon.
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Feb 13, 2018 23:04
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Beast Pussy posted:Since we're talking about basing, if I want to paint my base separately from my mini, how do I attach them at the end, once the base is painted? Do I just scratch away some paint to use plastic glue? Or is there another trick? I pin the mini when I paint it and the base separately. Easy and straightforward.
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Feb 13, 2018 23:18
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Shadin posted:So I think Vallejo Metal Color Gold is too gold for the normal flesh shade type wash. Not yet (my local hobby store isn't stocking it, citing complaints*), but I might suggest using a different color shade than black or grey. Those don't usually play nice with gold. However, you can get excellent effects from purple or green ink washes, thinned well and built up in layers in and by the recesses. You could also try one of GW's Gloss washes, like Reikland Fleshshade or Agrax Earthshade Gloss. Both of those work nicely with gold metallics, in that they leave the surface shiny but tend to run straight into recesses. Oh, and for highlights, go with sparing touches of a bright silver on the uppermost points, to give the gold more of a glinty appearance. (This doesn't actually look that bad, btw. The shade is roughly comparable to the GW studio paint job on Robot Gilliman; it just needs more blending in some of the more obvious areas, like by the ankles.) (* Apparently the pigments in several of the Vallejo Metal Color "brown" metals tend to get clumpy, according to some of this FLGS's other customers. This was a problem with their Metal Air colors for sure, but I've got a bottle of the Metal Color Copper and it's one of my all-time favorite metallic paints, nary a clump in sight. So I guess the moral here is, umm...don't listen to other people?)
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Feb 13, 2018 23:48
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Dr. Gargunza posted:(* Apparently the pigments in several of the Vallejo Metal Color "brown" metals tend to get clumpy, according to some of this FLGS's other customers. This was a problem with their Metal Air colors for sure, but I've got a bottle of the Metal Color Copper and it's one of my all-time favorite metallic paints, nary a clump in sight. So I guess the moral here is, umm...don't listen to other people?) This is true to varying degrees for all the Metal Color paints. The pigment is pretty eager to separate out, and you'll get a pretty thick layer of sediment on the bottom of the bottle. I've had a bunch of the MC (which of course is not VMC, because why be simple) paints for a few months. The secret is to shake the living hell out of them before you use them, and everything goes back into solution pretty quick - check the bottom of the bottle while shaking and watch the paint particles fall off to see when to stop. I would very strongly suggest dropping an agitator of some sort into any Metal Color bottles.
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Feb 14, 2018 00:27
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So I'm digging the Army Painter paints I've got and will probably be rolling with them cause of ease-of-purchase(my FLGS is stocking them). But they do got that problem where they need some agitators so they shake right. Anyone buy some like beads or something off of amazon, or marine grade stainless steel ball bearings? Wanting to see if I can buy a good lot of them and just pop a couple into each new bottle.
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Feb 14, 2018 02:25
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:I don't know why anyone would willingly subject themselves to using super glue on a plastic kit when plastic glue exists. Madness. A lot of time, especially with something like two handed swords or guns separate from the arms, I will superglue one of the parts into place to speed assembly. The plastic glue lets you wiggle the parts around for a while, while the superglue lets me prevent sag. When I am trying to like up 3 parts, just loving fixing one down with superglue is way easier than trying to hold 4 joints at once in perfect alignment. I also use superglue for poo poo that's likely to sag if I look away, because I am not holding plastic glue in place for several minutes.
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Feb 14, 2018 02:58
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Arthil posted:So I'm digging the Army Painter paints I've got and will probably be rolling with them cause of ease-of-purchase(my FLGS is stocking them). But they do got that problem where they need some agitators so they shake right. I've bought bags of 150 stainless steel balls, but be careful, it's not unheard of that they're sold that way, but end up rusting within weeks. Either choose a quality supplier, or consider glass
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Feb 14, 2018 03:39
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Yeast posted:I've bought bags of 150 stainless steel balls, but be careful, it's not unheard of that they're sold that way, but end up rusting within weeks. It's why I was asking about marine grade stainless steel balls.
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Feb 14, 2018 03:47
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I got some of these when I transferred my GW paints into dropper bottles, they worked well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00J...HTMGGQSQRQQP27V
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Feb 14, 2018 03:52
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Use hematite. It's already oxidized, so it can't rust! I bought these and they have worked out well as far as I can tell: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J9F8ILU/ They're also much denser than glass, so they should let you shake your paints up real good.
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Feb 14, 2018 04:07
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Both of those look great! For the hematite, what size works best you think?
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Feb 14, 2018 04:09
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The one I linked should fit in all Vallejo-style dropper bottles (i.e. probably every dropper unless you use a really obscure brand). You can’t really go any larger though.
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Feb 14, 2018 04:13
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So 8mm then? Just wanted to be sure.
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Feb 14, 2018 04:22
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Yup. I think Vallejo bottles have a 9mm interior diameter neck, so it just fits.
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Feb 14, 2018 04:40
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Far be it from me to question Duncan himself, but why doesn't he use a wet palette? At least in his videos. Is it simply because GW doesn't make a wet palette like Privateer Press does, therefore he's not allowed to use it? I know he uses the Citadel dry palette pads, but every video I can see wasted dry paint on the palette.
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Feb 14, 2018 18:28
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A lot of painters just don't use wet palettes. It's not a requirement. It's not so much saving wasted paint, more than it keeps the same color you mixed around longer so you don't have to try and remake that exact shade when you sit down again.
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Feb 14, 2018 18:31
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I've tried using a wet palette. It's just too much hassle.
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Feb 14, 2018 18:32
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I used one at first, but moved away from it after I started to use my airbrush. For multi joint model assembly I'm a big fan of little green stuff balls with super glue on either side.
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Feb 14, 2018 19:12
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I just used I use a paper towel and square of parchment in Tupperware and it takes me an extra minute at the start of painting. I like that I can work with a single dollop of paint for so much longer.
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Feb 14, 2018 19:24
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LifeLynx posted:Far be it from me to question Duncan himself, but why doesn't he use a wet palette? At least in his videos. Is it simply because GW doesn't make a wet palette like Privateer Press does, therefore he's not allowed to use it? I know he uses the Citadel dry palette pads, but every video I can see wasted dry paint on the palette. Him not paying for the paint might be a factor, also I think I read or heard him say in an interview that a lot of the Tip of the Day minis never get finished paint jobs anyway since they're just for the videos.
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Feb 14, 2018 19:49
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I might get 30 minutes of painting in so a wet pallet is just one more step in getting something finished.
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Feb 14, 2018 19:54
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| # ? May 26, 2024 22:19 |
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So I'm following this tutorial on how to paint a starweaver. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=widvw_IAb4k&t=910s The artist says that he applies a wash to the cracks and then removes the wash from the armor 30 minutes later. How do you remove a wash like that without damaging the paint underneath?
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Feb 14, 2018 20:18
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