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ExecuDork posted:
Did this and it fixed the issue. Thanks.
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Feb 12, 2018 23:31
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builds character posted:'04 AWD savana with 165k miles on a 5.3 v8. I had a nearly identical problem on my car (just not as severe), and it wound up being the EVAP purge solenoid. And somehow the purge solenoid on the Ecotec 2.2 is also shared with a huge chunk of the mid 00s to mid 2010s GM lineup (including some 5.3s). My symptoms were less severe, but anytime I put gas in, it was hard to start, sputtered a bit, and would belch a nice cloud of black smoke from the exhaust if I managed to keep it running. If I let it die, it would usually fire right back up and run a little rough for a moment, then run fine. Only after getting gas. It always fires up relatively easily any other time (it has an occasional hard start where the starter cranks for 3-4 seconds before it fires, but it's been doing that for 5 years and hasn't gotten past "minor annoyance"). It's a pretty cheap part ($21 on Amazon for the OEM part, cheaper than any of the aftermarket brands - double check to make sure that fits though, use Rockauto to look up the part number) and easy to replace, though admittedly my car was also throwing a "evap purge flow when not expected" code (and an occasional "MAF out of expected range" code that hasn't come back since replacing the solenoid), so that really helped narrow the troubleshooting. On my car it sits right on the intake manifold, though you should use a GM fuel filter quick release tool on it (I managed to do it without one, not the best idea). Not saying this is definitely the problem, but that little bastard is probably playing a role in it, and it's cheap enough (and easy enough) to change that it's worth trying as a fix. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Feb 13, 2018 |
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Feb 13, 2018 07:45
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I had a nearly identical problem on my car (just not as severe), and it wound up being the EVAP purge solenoid. And somehow the purge solenoid on the Ecotec 2.2 is also shared with a huge chunk of the mid 00s to mid 2010s GM lineup (including some 5.3s). My symptoms were less severe, but anytime I put gas in, it was hard to start, sputtered a bit, and would belch a nice cloud of black smoke from the exhaust if I managed to keep it running. If I let it die, it would usually fire right back up and run a little rough for a moment, then run fine. Only after getting gas. It always fires up relatively easily any other time (it has an occasional hard start where the starter cranks for 3-4 seconds before it fires, but it's been doing that for 5 years and hasn't gotten past "minor annoyance"). That's interesting, thank you. I passed emissions without the evap stuff checking out which I paid maybe less attention to than I should have because it wasn't throwing codes, it says it takes a couple of drives in not-freezing weather for the whole system to check itself out and I'd just replaced the battery, but as I recall there was a nice little question mark next to the evap something which I had assumed meant "hey, this just hasn't finished running its check yet but it's too cold and you never drive this so just ignore it and everything will be fine."
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Feb 13, 2018 17:41
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I drive ~100 miles a day, and it took a couple of weeks for the evap monitor to finally show ready after the last time I cleared the ECU. It really does take forever on a GM.
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Feb 13, 2018 23:25
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Last week I bought a 2013 VW Multivan (MY13 TDI 340 comfortline, ~150,000km). I have a question about the transmission and MFD. I think the transmission's a DQ500, unless I've completely misread everything. The question I have is that the owner's manual tells me that I can set "freewheel" on or off in the MFD settings menu, but that option isn't present and I'm not sure what's going on. Do I need to access a sub-menu or something? Previous car was a 2002 Outback where everything I might ever want to turn on or off had its own physical button, and this poo poo is confusing me.
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Feb 14, 2018 08:51
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Finally filmed my suspected bad mounts. Sure does look like it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGVqwU2ECrs At first - foot on brake, let up clutch on idle. At the end, handbrake + some gas while letting clutch up. My (completely unqualified) guess based on the movement is that it's the rear motor mount.
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Feb 14, 2018 11:15
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How do some trucks have offset wheel positions where the wheel/tire sticks out from under the fender? How do they get them to stick out from the truck like that? Other than the obvious "wide wheel" option, is there something else to it suspension wise?
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Feb 15, 2018 18:40
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Wheel spacers. Its probably not legal to have them outside the fenders, not that its enforced.
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Feb 15, 2018 19:20
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Wide wheels and aftermarket wheels with a different offset than the factory wheels. If the factory wheels are offset closer to the outside edge and you install wheels with a centered offset, it’ll stick out.
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Feb 15, 2018 19:23
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Do you have to buy wider wheels, or can that look be achieved with just wider/bigger tires, and wheel spacers? For example - this is exactly what I'm talking about. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qeo2t4qPPCc
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Feb 15, 2018 21:53
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2005 Ford Escape. As I am a tremendous fatass who drives for an hour and a half every day, my driver seat has been gradually bending backwards. I've been making adjustments to the seat back and forward/back position as necessary, but I've reached the point where the back can't move up any further, and if I move the seat up there won't be room for me to fit. Can the driver and passenger seats be swapped? Is there any kind of easy fix, or do I need to shell out for a new or used seat? It's manual, not electric, if that matters. Also my mechanical skills are basically nonexistent.
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Feb 15, 2018 23:17
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Seats tend to be side specific due to the mounting hardware, and generally you can't separate the seat from the mounts. That being said, you should be able to pick up a seat from the junkyard for relatively cheap unless your current seats are leather.
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Feb 15, 2018 23:31
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LaserShark posted:2005 Ford Escape. 1): no. They have asymmetrical mountings. Also, depending on your model of seat, they might have airbags fitted to the front seats. 2): maybe. If it doesn't have airbags mounted to the front seat, then you can probably get a decent one from a junkyard, and it's really just four bolts to fit it up. Not being electric makes me think it will probably not have airbags because those were an option back then, but if you see the shoulder section of the seat and it has "SRS" or "Airbag" embossed in it, then it has an airbag and this becomes a lot more complicated.
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Feb 15, 2018 23:32
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Dennis McClaren posted:Do you have to buy wider wheels, or can that look be achieved with just wider/bigger tires, and wheel spacers? That one looks like it just has wider wheels/tires, and the offset of the wheels is different from OE. I doubt it's got spacers on there.
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Feb 16, 2018 16:12
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Swapping out a seat for a junkyard replacement is very easy. Four bolts underneath some clipped-on plastic covers (pry off with screwdriver), plus an electrical connector for the wear-your-seatbelt-reminder thing. The hardest part is getting the old one out and the 'new' one in without scratching the interior or the paint with a protruding metal part. Fortunately, you get a chance to practice on something nobody cares about: take the seat out of the JY wreck, and try out different ideas for all the tricky parts. If you mess up or find a seat with terrible problems (not unlikely in a JY), find another or just walk away. Get kneepads or a foam cushion, most of the work happens on your knees. ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Feb 16, 2018 |
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Feb 16, 2018 16:58
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sounds too good to be true, so I'm going to drive 20 minutes and find out why https://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/cto/d/1977-datsun-280z-1-owner-barn/6498789590.html
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Feb 16, 2018 21:50
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bawfuls posted:sounds too good to be true, so I'm going to drive 20 minutes and find out why “No rust” That’d be my biggest concern. Pull up some carpet if you can and check the floor. Those things tend to turn into Swiss cheese.
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Feb 16, 2018 21:57
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smax posted:“No rust”
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Feb 16, 2018 23:18
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Album of pics: https://imgur.com/a/yIq6t There are clearly body repairs and some bondo. It doesn't look much worse (on the rust front) to me than Lord of Garbagemen's Z when he first got it. Look through the album and crush my dreams please AI bawfuls fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Feb 16, 2018 |
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Feb 16, 2018 23:39
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bawfuls posted:Album of pics: That door is going to be painful to try and repair. You will likely be better off just grabbing a good one off a donor. Your floor pans seems good (drain plugs still exist so car has likely not seen much moisture). The frame rail damage is a little concerning, but the picture might be just making it seem worse, also on the second picture is there a separation in the welds above the frame rail? How did the wiper cowl look? Did you check the spare tire hideaway? Also, unless you are going to strip the interior, is everything there and working? The interior bits are the most expensive from my research (if you want to look factory). Being a 77 it has a much better body than 69-74, your trans tunnel is also larger then the earlier years (if you are swapping). You cannot always be sure from the head, but if the block is an N42 you can sell it for at least half the price of that car. edit: at 2,500 I probably would go back immediately and buy it though it will be gone fast. Lord of Garbagemen fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Feb 17, 2018 |
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Feb 17, 2018 01:30
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:That door is going to be painful to try and repair. You will likely be better off just grabbing a good one off a donor. Your floor pans seems good (drain plugs still exist so car has likely not seen much moisture). The frame rail damage is a little concerning, but the picture might be just making it seem worse, also on the second picture is there a separation in the welds above the frame rail? How did the wiper cowl look? Did you check the spare tire hideaway? Also, unless you are going to strip the interior, is everything there and working? The interior bits are the most expensive from my research (if you want to look factory). Being a 77 it has a much better body than 69-74, your trans tunnel is also larger then the earlier years (if you are swapping). You cannot always be sure from the head, but if the block is an N42 you can sell it for at least half the price of that car. Just got him on the phone, he said another guy is driving down from LA to get it now, so I'm going to go over now and pre-empt him. Too cheap to pass up. bawfuls fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Feb 17, 2018 |
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Feb 17, 2018 01:44
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It is done. I am the proud owner of a stack of papers that claim I own a 40 year old non-operational car.  Any advice on how best to sell this engine? I would assume potential buyers will want to know that it runs (if we can make it run), and do a compression test themselves, but that's tough to demonstrate if we pull the engine out of the car first. What's the proper way to go about it? I will make a thread for this project once we clear out garage space to start stripping it down. bawfuls fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Feb 17, 2018 |
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Feb 17, 2018 03:03
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I was about to order more brake fluid to do a change and discovered a sealed bottle on the shelf in the garage, it’s probably been there a couple of years. Since it’s still sealed it should be good to use, yes?
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Feb 17, 2018 17:17
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I wouldn't sweat it, but I live in a properly dry state and I don't even worry about opened bottles until they're ancient. As long as the seal looks good, I'd run it.
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Feb 17, 2018 17:36
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Why bother doing all that work if you're going to put old fluid in? If I wasn't hard up and I already had the money in the budget for new fluid I wouldn't bother. e: I live somewhere that has proper seasons and is pretty damp in the summer, the fluid absorbing water is a real risk here so ymmv
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Feb 17, 2018 19:56
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If it's actually sealed and the bottle isn't bulging/crushing it's perfectly fine. If it's been previously opened and stored with just the cap closing it, replace it.
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Feb 17, 2018 22:43
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I have a low power scooter 50cc that I got from a guy I used to know in California he held onto the title but had repairs done here in Colorado he said if I went and paid for the repairs he would pay me back eventually and I could use the scooter for personal use. Well that was two years ago and I have not been able to get ahold of him and I would like to get a replacement title but it looks like that will be very difficult to do without even having paperwork showing who purchased it I don't know if there are any special rules you guys know of when you've held onto a vehicle for more than a couple years I have proof I paid for the repairs but I don't think that means much I tried looking on the website but they're very shoddy on their details. Has anyone here had to deal with a similar issue or know of a possible way I could get a title for it without having contact with the original owner Not even sure I want to sell it it's nice for getting around but if the time comes I would like to have the title it looks like I can register it again without the title though so it's not a complete loss
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Feb 18, 2018 01:18
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I had a similar issue with an older BMW. It required me to find a licensed tax inspector guy in Texas that you hand over all your available paperwork to. He's somehow qualified like a notary to review the paperwork, and make a determination that you now rightfully own the vehicle/scooter. He gives you back a few sheets of paper that qualify you, which you then take down to the DMV. I was certain I would have some trouble from them at the DMV over all this - but surprisingly none at all. They produced a new title for me, and on I went. Sorry I'm not sure if this is much more help then what you already knew!
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Feb 18, 2018 01:36
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That is helpful I figured it would require someone creating an authorization that I've in essence owned the bike for the last few years and therefore it should be under my name. I will look into that thanks.
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Feb 18, 2018 01:40
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bawfuls posted:It is done. I am the proud owner of a stack of papers that claim I own a 40 year old non-operational car. Not really, most guys want the n42 block because it has the most nickel content and takes very well to a 3.1 liter bore. The heads are near worthless. The best way is just to pull the engine as complete as possible and sell it that way.
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Feb 18, 2018 03:51
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:Not really, most guys want the n42 block because it has the most nickel content and takes very well to a 3.1 liter bore. The heads are near worthless. The best way is just to pull the engine as complete as possible and sell it that way. bawfuls fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Feb 18, 2018 |
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Feb 18, 2018 03:58
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bawfuls posted:Cool, that makes things simpler. So once I get in there, is there a stamp somewhere to verify the block? Looks like the serial number is on the block, so that should have it I assume. If it is the N42, is there anything else I should verify to know how much to ask for it? Ya there is a stamp on the block, I can't remember which side it's on. Mostly just try and verify that the block hasn't been turbo hosed and you are good. At least that's all I'd care about (especially if I was going to bore it and use a different crank and heads.)
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Feb 18, 2018 05:08
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Do all car/truck engines still have camshafts
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Feb 18, 2018 05:21
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shovelbum posted:Do all car/truck engines still have camshafts There are some camless designs in the testing phase that may come to market in a few years. Koenigsegg has a working camless engine, which uses electromagnetic actuators to move the valves (IIRC), but it's very expensive. All cars and trucks with internal combustion engines currently have camshafts, and will continue to for quite a while yet.
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Feb 18, 2018 05:25
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shovelbum posted:Do all car/truck engines still have camshafts For sale, as far as I know, yes. There are camless engines rolling around as research testbeds, but I don't think any of them are near ready for production yet.
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Feb 18, 2018 05:25
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Dang I bet they can get some crazy gas mileage outta that
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Feb 18, 2018 05:29
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shovelbum posted:Dang I bet they can get some crazy gas mileage outta that More that they don't have the major drawback of a single cam shape: narrow power band. A camless engine can theoretically have perfect tuning through the entire RPM range.
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Feb 18, 2018 05:33
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shovelbum posted:Dang I bet they can get some crazy gas mileage outta that quote:A demonstrator 1.6-L 4-cylinder 16-valve DOHC turbocharged gasoline engine fitted with the system was first seen at the 2016 Beijing Motor Show in a Qoros concept car. Company engineers claimed it demonstrated a 47% increase in power, a 45% increase in torque, and a 15% reduction in fuel consumption compared to a regular camshaft-equipped engine with similar specifications. Further development may improve those numbers a bit further.
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Feb 18, 2018 05:34
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Deteriorata posted:http://articles.sae.org/15664/ Yeah that seems about right, I worked on two identical vehicles one with camshaft engine and one without and holy lol talk about doing more with less.
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Feb 18, 2018 05:36
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Deteriorata posted:http://articles.sae.org/15664/ Holy poo poo. That's far more than I was expecting.
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Feb 18, 2018 05:39
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