|
melon cat posted:Thanks for confirming that. Personally I'd rather just replace the entire bottom sheet, but can't figure out an easy way to do that (especially since the cabient is screwed and fixed to the wall and otherwise can't be removed like an IKEA cabinet on rails could). I guess I'll just get some new wood and put in on top of the existing cabinet bottom Would some massive washers work for you? Same sort of idea, but probably cheaper and easier.
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2018 22:06
|
|
.
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 04:15 |
|
|
melon cat posted:This loving range hood, man. A mending plate for C and maybe 2 L brackets to keep the vent from jiggling at points A and B? Not sure if A and B will actually be a problem once the hood is installed, though.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2018 22:18
|
|
|
Quick question, is that Rid X for your septic tank unnecessary? I have an apartment but I’m just curious because my parents have a house and they never used it. I’m assuming waste has enough bacteria but I’m not sure.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2018 22:59
|
|
|
Are you sure you even have a septic tank? If you're connected to municipal sewer it's unneeded as the waste is treated at a central location. Additionally if you're renting part of a multi-unit complex (that actually has a septic system) it's nothing you should be worried about unless your landlord tells you to. It's their system and their responsibility to maintain it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2018 23:10
|
|
|
melon cat posted:I guess I'll just get some new wood and put in on top of the existing cabinet bottom That might be the way to go. If the cabinet, like most range hood cabinets, isn't used for much except storing things that are rarely used, some extra wood in there won't bother anyone. Square off A, B and C. Amateur tip: measure and cut the pieces (roughly outlined in white in your pic) that will fill the holes in the bottom of the cab first:  Use the pieces as templates to trace around what you're going to cut out of the bottom of the cab, then cut them out. This way the pieces (I'd go with plywood because it won't crack or split when screwed) will fit right in. For inside the cab, maybe you could cut a U-shaped piece of plywood that will bracket the vent and extend past the cutouts for A and B so it can be glued and screwed into the bottom of cab. I'd use a few dabs of silicone caulk rather than adhesive before screwing it down, because silicone will help hold it in place but it'll be easy to pry off if needed down the road. Same idea for C. Then glue (with adhesive) and screw (from underneath) the pieces you cut into the plywood you added up top. Might also want to mark where the screws for the rails of the new hood will go into C prior to screwing in the piece you cut for C to avoid that magical moment when the screws for the rails won't go in because they're blocked by the screws you used for C.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2018 23:22
|
|
|
PremiumSupport posted:Are you sure you even have a septic tank? Sorry for the confusion, it’s a multi unit complex I live in, my parents are the ones with the house and septic system. I know I don’t have to do anything with mine.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2018 00:34
|
|
|
To Battle posted:Sorry for the confusion, it’s a multi unit complex I live in, my parents are the ones with the house and septic system. I know I don’t have to do anything with mine. As long as you haven't been flushing bleach or something similar which would kill off all the bacteria in your septic tank, you usually don't need to do anything special. Vacation homes can go five years or so before needing to have the septic tank pumped/solids removed. (The folks pumping your septic tank will recommend every two to three years.) Stay away from Rid X. If you want to freshen up the bacteria in your tank get two to four gallons of buttermilk. Let the buttermilk sit outside in the heat for a month and then flush the milk. (Pro tip: Try not to breathe while flushing  )
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2018 03:39
|
|
|
HycoCam posted:As long as you haven't been flushing bleach or something similar which would kill off all the bacteria in your septic tank, you usually don't need to do anything special. Vacation homes can go five years or so before needing to have the septic tank pumped/solids removed. (The folks pumping your septic tank will recommend every two to three years.) Stay away from Rid X. If you want to freshen up the bacteria in your tank get two to four gallons of buttermilk. Let the buttermilk sit outside in the heat for a month and then flush the milk. (Pro tip: Try not to breathe while flushing Thanks, appreciate it!
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2018 05:52
|
|
|
HycoCam posted:Wood epoxy--there are several brands, but you want to get something that is sandable and paintable. Some brands are more like putty (https://www.lowes.com/pd/PC-Products-PC-Woody-12-oz-Tan-Multi-Surface-Repair/999994034) and others are more liquid (https://smile.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50151-WoodWeld-Syringe/dp/B00OKJC53C) This is super helpful. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2018 04:41
|
|
|
To Battle posted:Thanks, appreciate it! Nostalgic Cashew posted:This is super helpful. Thanks! Happy to help and hope it works for you.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2018 23:09
|
|
|
So I've googled this a bit, but figured I'd double check here before I burn my apartment down: I'm looking for better floor lamps than the $8 dorm room specials I've held onto too long. The problem is that I'm apparently one of the few people on earth who has no use for 3-way switches, which is severely limiting my selection for new lamps. Can I stick a regular bulb in a lamp built for 3-way bulbs without the bulb exploding/stuff catching on fire/general bad things happening? My googling suggests 'yes, as long as you don't mind the switch having weird on/off patterns," but I don't want to put 100% of my trust in random metafilter and reddit threads.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2018 01:19
|
|
|
Haifisch posted:So I've googled this a bit, but figured I'd double check here before I burn my apartment down: Do you live in California? (Not a joke question.) If so, just go to a store. Lamps here are required to be LED/CFL only and include a bulb (or maybe just be labeled max wattage super low? I forget.) which has led basically everyone to say "gently caress it, no lamps for california." Also serious: I have no clue what you're smoking but I've never had this problem. Do you have an ikea near you? They sell great lamps if you can avoid the dorm room style hydralamps. Here have a lamp that's probably ugly but what do I know: http://www.lampsplus.com/products/brighton-hammered-pot-bronze-table-lamp__x4785.html H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Feb 15, 2018 |
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2018 01:41
|
|
|
Haifisch posted:So I've googled this a bit, but figured I'd double check here before I burn my apartment down: You mean the bulbs with 3 levels of brightness? Those are the bulbs themselves that do that.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2018 01:44
|
|
|
melon cat posted:This loving range hood, man. https://m.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-3-ft-x-1-1-4-in-Plated-Steel-Slotted-Angle/3054805
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2018 02:04
|
|
|
Haifisch posted:Can I stick a regular bulb in a lamp built for 3-way bulbs without the bulb exploding/stuff catching on fire/general bad things happening? My googling suggests 'yes, as long as you don't mind the switch having weird on/off patterns," but I don't want to put 100% of my trust in random metafilter and reddit threads. Yes. “weird patterns” means it’ll be on for two clicks, off for two clicks (or 3 & 1, can’t remember). Those bulbs just have another filament in them.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2018 02:19
|
|
|
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3-way_lamp e: it is a special lamp AND a special bulb. You can safely use a three way bulb in a regular lamp as well as use a regular bulb in a three way lamp. No fire risk--just less lighting options and/or more spinning of the lamp switch. (two offs and two ons when you use a regular bulb in a three way lamp versus off/low/medium/high when you use a three way bulb in a three way light.) HycoCam fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Feb 15, 2018 |
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2018 02:54
|
|
|
Our back door has a gap that lets light through on the latch side of the door closer to the top. It feels like the door doesn’t shut right and deadbolt if it seems to close the gap some. I assume moving the striker plate in would be the fix, but the door frame is metal (it’s actually two doors that open so the striker is in the 2nd door. Both doors are metal). What’s the best fix here?
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2018 04:03
|
|
|
Rubiks Pubes posted:Our back door has a gap that lets light through on the latch side of the door closer to the top. It feels like the door doesn’t shut right and deadbolt if it seems to close the gap some. I assume moving the striker plate in would be the fix, but the door frame is metal (it’s actually two doors that open so the striker is in the 2nd door. Both doors are metal). What’s the best fix here? Is the door level? I had an issue with a storm door dragging on the step in front of it and attempting to bend it into place did not help. I ended up putting some metal washers under the hinges at the bottom to reorient it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2018 04:07
|
|
|
Rubiks Pubes posted:Our back door has a gap that lets light through on the latch side of the door closer to the top. It feels like the door doesn’t shut right and deadbolt if it seems to close the gap some. I assume moving the striker plate in would be the fix, but the door frame is metal (it’s actually two doors that open so the striker is in the 2nd door. Both doors are metal). What’s the best fix here? Shimming the hinges...but you could spend the rest of your natural life trying to line up all the gaps. Focus on the center gap. You may want to substitute longer screws in your hinge plates as you are working in the shims/adjustments.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2018 04:57
|
|
|
Rubiks Pubes posted:Our back door has a gap that lets light through on the latch side of the door closer to the top. It feels like the door doesn’t shut right and deadbolt if it seems to close the gap some. I assume moving the striker plate in would be the fix, but the door frame is metal (it’s actually two doors that open so the striker is in the 2nd door. Both doors are metal). What’s the best fix here? Is there weatherstripping there? Does it need to be adjusted or replaced? Also, just to eliminate the easy question, is there anything stuck along the door or in the jamb that's keeping either door from closing fully?
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2018 07:16
|
|
|
HycoCam posted:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3-way_lamp I have never heard of these before, you learn something new every day 
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2018 10:44
|
|
|
hey there, thread. i hope this is a quick question at least... where on god's green earth would i look for an ionization-only smoke alarm that could operate in 90%+ relative humidity for its entire life? edit: wow i guess i have a new av
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2018 11:43
|
|
|
Practically every lamp I've ever used has been a 3 way lamp without a 3 way bulb. How are people not running into these things? Edit: I didn't think you could buy an avatar for mods. Can't they just change it back whenever?
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2018 11:45
|
|
|
SoundMonkey posted:hey there, thread. Yeah, I noticed that ionization seems to have fallen out of favor when I was shopping early last year. I didn't come across any.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2018 12:59
|
|
|
KillHour posted:Practically every lamp I've ever used has been a 3 way lamp without a 3 way bulb. How are people not running into these things? I grew up in a 1967-built suburban house where they were apparently opposed to overhead lighting. The kind of place where owners added track lighting in the 80s. We had tons of lamps in nearly every room and a lot were 3-way, but I imagine that in newer construction that might be more uncommon.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2018 13:02
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Is there weatherstripping there? Does it need to be adjusted or replaced? There is weatherstripping there. The door is level, the gap appears to be that the door doesn’t fully close- not that it is sagging top to bottom.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2018 13:53
|
|
|
glynnenstein posted:Yeah, I noticed that ionization seems to have fallen out of favor when I was shopping early last year. I didn't come across any. wow, i'm an idiot and it was late at night when i posted that, i mean photoelectric. it's the ionization sensors that have trouble with humidity apparently. i put my spare combo detector in there and after about five minutes it started doing its "something MIGHT be on fire" beep (one detector triggered but the other didn't.)
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2018 01:50
|
|
|
SoundMonkey posted:wow, i'm an idiot and it was late at night when i posted that, i mean photoelectric. it's the ionization sensors that have trouble with humidity apparently. i put my spare combo detector in there and after about five minutes it started doing its "something MIGHT be on fire" beep (one detector triggered but the other didn't.) Well, the good news is those are super easy to find!
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2018 02:10
|
|
|
glynnenstein posted:Well, the good news is those are super easy to find! yeah i just didn't know if there were ones that can actually operate for extended periods in that kind of humidity (like, the electronics in general, not just the alarm triggering)
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2018 03:23
|
|
|
This seems like as good a thread as any. I looked back a few pages and didn't see any sort of concrete working thread. I have nothing to fix, or build, but I want to know how you use builder's tube, or Sono tube I've heard it called. Mostly curious. I'm a driller, so familiar with making holes in the ground. You make a hole in the ground, preferably deep enough that you find competent material and below the frost line where applicable, drop several (6-8inches?) of gravel in the ground and then shove the tube in, and fill with concrete. What then? I guess if you were building a fence you'd put a piece of 4x4 or metal fence post in there. What about the rest of the hole? Do you try to pack stuff around the tube? Do you pull the tube up once you fill with concrete and let it slump out to fill the hole, adding more until you've filled the entire hole to (whatever depth) below surface?
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2018 18:45
|
|
|
Hey, just an update on my hood range if anyone cares- it's up and running. Thanks to everyone in this thread who gave me suggestions on how to safely reinforce my cabinetry! It's just too bad that the Broan hood range I bought is terrible. But it's installed. And working.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2018 20:44
|
|
|
wesleywillis posted:This seems like as good a thread as any. I looked back a few pages and didn't see any sort of concrete working thread. Typically the tube is to extend a hole above the surface of the ground. Say you're using 18" sonotube. You dig/bore an 18" hole to whatever depth and drop the tube in. The tube sticks above the top of the hole to let the concrete up that high. You then drop in your rebar/j-bolts/posts/whatever, pour in the concrete, use a vibrator to get the bubbles out, make sure everything is plumb and level AGAIN, and let everything set. The sonotube is sacrificial and remains in the hole forever. The part above the surface is cut/peeled away after the concrete sets. If your everything is going to be below ground, don't use tube unless your soil is soft garbage, I guess. I haven't had to pour posts/pole bases in such soil.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2018 21:19
|
|
|
Finally got around to caulking my lovely siding today. Most importantly, I did not die. It went surprisingly smoothly -- use ladder 1 to get onto the lower roof, use ladder 2 to get onto the dormer roof, then use the caulk gun in a reversed grip to just kind of blindly fumble caulk all over the place, and then blindly smear it into place with a finger. I ruined a sweatshirt, a pair of gloves, and a pair of jeans, and got caulk in my hair, but the clothes were doomed anyway and hair grows back. And while the caulking job is pretty terrible from an aesthetic standpoint, it's somewhere that nobody ever really looks. Honestly my biggest concern is that maybe I put the caulk on too thick and it'll crack or something while drying. Does caulk do that?
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2018 21:47
|
|
|
wesleywillis posted:This seems like as good a thread as any. I looked back a few pages and didn't see any sort of concrete working thread. Sonotube is a big cardboard tube for extending concrete above ground. Typically, you just leave it there to rot away, but if you really want it gone sooner, you can cut it away with a utility knife. Setting things inside it works just like any other concrete job: rebar, post footers, etc.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2018 23:52
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Finally got around to caulking my lovely siding today. Most importantly, I did not die. Not silicone. It'll be fine...you biggest issue with caulk of any type (or any coating) is surface prep so that it'll adhere properly. Seriously: nice work beavering through acrophobia. Mine is getting so much worse as I get older.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2018 02:57
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Seriously: nice work beavering through acrophobia. Mine is getting so much worse as I get older.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2018 06:15
|
|
|
HycoCam posted:Same--not sure if it is getting smarter or just that I don't bounce as well any more. The fatter I get the more afraid of heights I am
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2018 06:19
|
|
|
I'm trying to install a new (reclaimed) door into an existing frame in my 1890 brick house. The framing is the rough opening and jamb in one, essentially. The opening is no longer square, although it's not way out. What is the easiest way to square this up to fit the door properly? It is a fairly tight fit, and I really don't want to just chop it up to out-of-square dimensions to make it fit the uneven opening. Poorly lit cellphone pics:    Pics aren't showing in preview for me, but here's the gallery https://imgur.com/a/EOSeR
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2018 15:55
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Not silicone. It'll be fine...you biggest issue with caulk of any type (or any coating) is surface prep so that it'll adhere properly. ...well, crap, I didn't do any surface prep, beyond that the area got freshly painted a couple months ago. They did surface prep. It shouldn't get too dirty all the way up there in two months, I guess, so hopefully the surface was clean enough to get good adhesion. I'll just have to keep an eye on it. I don't think I have agoraphobia, but I was definitely thinking "this is among the more dangerous things I've ever done in my life." Fortunately the dormer roof is near enough to flat that I had no difficulty holding my position. mr.belowaverage posted:I'm trying to install a new (reclaimed) door into an existing frame in my 1890 brick house. The framing is the rough opening and jamb in one, essentially. The opening is no longer square, although it's not way out. What is the easiest way to square this up to fit the door properly? It is a fairly tight fit, and I really don't want to just chop it up to out-of-square dimensions to make it fit the uneven opening. You need to link to the images, not the gallery. And make sure to stick an "l" (that's a lowercase L) at the end of the image name or else you get the full-size image and blow out the forums.    As for actually fixing the issue, that looks pretty square to me. And you really don't have much room to work with. My answers would be either a) learn to live with it, or b) get a smaller door and a jamb that will fit inside the framing you have, then shim the jamb to be square.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2018 16:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 04:15 |
|
|
The vertical jambs are both bowed in in the centre, and the head jamb is almost half an inch lower on the left. The pics don't show it; you'd need a straightedge or square to see it, or be trying to install a square door! I think I might be able to screw through the jamb into those wood pieces between the brick courses, and pull the side jambs in a bit. As for the head jamb, I think the left side bowing along with age and weight has caused it to drop. Not too sure how much I can raise it to square it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2018 16:28
|
|