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I have to wonder how much of that is increased power output from the cylinder, and how much is decreased parasitic loss from getting rid of the whole camshaft assembly. I realize valveless systems still use power that has to come from the alternator, but there's probably a net benefit on that front as well.
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Feb 18, 2018 05:45
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| # ? Jun 1, 2024 16:18 |
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I think it has a lot of potential if they can directly electrically drive the valves, the existing like ones I've wrenched on have electro hydraulic valve and injector actuation and if you lose a hydraulic pump and it shits metal into the system welcome to hell world
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Feb 18, 2018 05:45
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shovelbum posted:I think it has a lot of potential if they can directly electrically drive the valves, the existing like ones I've wrenched on have electro hydraulic valve and injector actuation and if you lose a hydraulic pump and it shits metal into the system welcome to hell world Yeah, that's the downside. In exchange for the obvious benefits, you get a system that is expensive to build and maintain and very finicky. When it's working right it's terrific, but keeping it working right for 100,000 miles is a tall order. Meanwhile, Ford says their total cost of making a camshaft is about $5. It's simple, reliable, and cheap.
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Feb 18, 2018 05:50
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A tiny company in my hometown makes digital valves. In the 90s, they had a Mk3 Jetta TDI that was modified to be camless. I'm not sure how they're doing now. Another advantage of camless engines is that you can rev the poo poo out of them - the valvetrain is usually the limiting factor. They estimated 12,000 rpm for a gas engine.
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Feb 18, 2018 05:55
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0toShifty posted:A tiny company in my hometown makes digital valves. In the 90s, they had a Mk3 Jetta TDI that was modified to be camless. I'm not sure how they're doing now. That's so cool, I've only ever seen them used to operate efficiently at REDUCED load and RPM. The big diesels will burn up their liners long before you hit any other limits.
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Feb 18, 2018 06:04
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Nah, lots of bottom ends will give up well before 12k.
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Feb 18, 2018 06:05
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What is the current recommendations for cleaning supplies? Interior stuff for plastics and upholstery, exterior soaps and waxes, that sort of thing.
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Feb 18, 2018 07:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:Nah, lots of bottom ends will give up well before 12k. Thing is, driving the whole valvetrain takes a lot of horsepower, greatly increasing at high RPM. It's tough to design a belt or chain that'll hold up to that much power and still be efficient at cruise, so they just limit RPM. It then makes sense to design the bottom end to only spin that fast. If you remove the valvetrain, it suddenly makes a lot more sense to beef up the bottom end if that's your only cap on engine speed.
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Feb 18, 2018 08:07
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I need someone to re-wire the wiring under my hood. The guy I bought it from did some hack job, and the mechanic who replaced my fuel pump said it looked like a mess in there. Who is someone you look for to fix automotive electronics and wiring specifically? A lot of guys that do it mobile on CL are claiming they dont "install/remove or redo wiring" I guess some liability issue?
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Feb 18, 2018 18:03
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Dennis McClaren posted:I need someone to re-wire the wiring under my hood. The guy I bought it from did some hack job, and the mechanic who replaced my fuel pump said it looked like a mess in there. Automotive wiring is extremely complex and time-consuming. If you're going to pay somebody $100/hr to work on it, you'd better have a deep checking account.
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Feb 18, 2018 18:08
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It's probably not the whole deal. It's primarily the Alternator wiring, and battery wires/plugs for all those things related, that needs the attention.
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Feb 18, 2018 18:40
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Enourmo posted:For sale, as far as I know, yes. There are camless engines rolling around as research testbeds, but I don't think any of them are near ready for production yet. I remember reading a small blurb about Electrically actuated valves in World Of Wheels Magazine in about 1995 or so. It was quite interesting. Infinitely variable valve timing, lift and duration. There was another blurb on the same page about a sparkplug head gasket. It was like....... The head gasket was wired up with..... Things that went in to the cylinders and a spark more or less jumped a gap in the gasket and inginted the fuel/air mix. I believe the advantage was that you could have more valves (if desired) and set them at a more ideal angle, since you'd have more room to work with.
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Feb 18, 2018 21:46
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Aha, found the pdf that goes over the Sulzer camshaftless marine engines that I have worked on some. They were really popular about 10 years ago but I think actual new builds have moved to the competition's less radical electronic engines. http://www.dieselduck.info/machine/01%20prime%20movers/rt_flex/2004%20Wartsila%20RT%20Flex%20desc.pdf
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Feb 18, 2018 21:50
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e: nevermind, got one
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Feb 18, 2018 |
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Feb 18, 2018 22:58
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*relocated*
bawfuls fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Feb 19, 2018 |
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Feb 19, 2018 02:46
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So what's changed that this kind of tech that has apparently been around for over 20 years is now gaining traction?
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Feb 19, 2018 09:54
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spankmeister posted:So what's changed that this kind of tech that has apparently been around for over 20 years is now gaining traction? Cheap processing power, I imagine.
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Feb 19, 2018 10:11
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spankmeister posted:So what's changed that this kind of tech that has apparently been around for over 20 years is now gaining traction? I'm curious about this as well considering that in the large two stroke engines it seems to be a fad that has somewhat run its course, the electronic B&Ws have a camshaft driving individual fuel pumps with electronic injection control and hydraulic valve operation, so a step back from having a common fuel rail and common hydraulic rails that were pressurized centrally.
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Feb 19, 2018 13:13
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spankmeister posted:So what's changed that this kind of tech that has apparently been around for over 20 years is now gaining traction? There was probably much lower hanging fruit before.
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Feb 19, 2018 14:28
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I would expect that an actuator that can reliably, repeatedly, and accurately open a valve with a variety of lift and duration settings, is not an easy component to make.
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Feb 19, 2018 14:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:I would expect that an actuator that can reliably, repeatedly, and accurately open a valve with a variety of lift and duration settings, is not an easy component to make. You also need feedback mechanisms to account for wear, fuel quality, etc or you're not doing what you think you're doing based on factory specs. Monitoring valve actuation times and positions, etc. Though honestly with one valve per cylinder running at 90rpm it's a lot lot less troublesome than the electronic common rail side of things. Is cylinder pressure monitoring/feedback common on automotive diesels yet? Nothing worse than seeing a cylinder going from the normal curve to just a hump higher than pcomp lol, hello uncontrolled injection.
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Feb 19, 2018 15:46
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Deteriorata posted:Automotive wiring is extremely complex and time-consuming. If you're going to pay somebody $100/hr to work on it, you'd better have a deep checking account. This. Years ago I had weird mysterious electrical gremlins (is there any other kind?) that ended up getting traced to the trailer hitch wires, which had been crushed and were intermittently shorting. The shop that did it for me took pity on poverty-stricken student me, and stopped adding charges when the bill hit $1000. They told me the hours they put in would have been worth about twice that. Ask the person who told you about the mess what, specifically, looks the nastiest. A new alternator, and new spark plug wires (and new plugs), and maybe new battery cables or at least the terminals will clean things up from a functional point of view much more than an expensive and mostly aesthetic tidying up of random wiring. spankmeister posted:So what's changed that this kind of tech that has apparently been around for over 20 years is now gaining traction? I think another big factor is the continually shifting targets for things like fuel consumption and pollution output (not just CO2, look at NOx regulations for diesels). It's worth it to develop some oddball technologies if they're going to help you hit California's mandates set to kick in 15 years from now.
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Feb 19, 2018 16:07
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Please help me identify a whine/whir in my wife's 2007 Honda Civic LX sedan (automatic). What I can tell so far: The whining sound's pitch tracks the rpm of the engine. It doesn't happen all the time but it happens a lot of the time. I originally thought it was linked to the coldness of the engine because sometimes it goes away after 10-15 minutes. But there are also times when the car is clearly up to temperature and the whine is still going, so I don't think it's temperature based, maybe it's just the sporadic nature of it. It happens in park, neutral, or drive. Any thoughts? As for my level of knowledge, I have worked on motorcycles a bit but never really cars, but I'm handy enough with tools and stuff.
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Feb 19, 2018 18:47
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Alternator bearing? Does it happen if you remove the serpentine belt? (Water pump is cam belt driven in that so don't worry)
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Feb 19, 2018 19:23
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Since my owner’s manual thinks I shouldn’t have to know how to change my own oil, I’m asking here. Does an ‘09 Camry have a crush washer or a rubber gasket to seal between the bolt and pan? Also I’ve heard that with synthetic you can go up to 10k miles per change. Is that true? It seems like a timing belt system would have trouble with that just because you’re losing oil as the engine operates.
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Feb 19, 2018 20:46
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The Felpro and Mahle parts listed on Rockauto look like some sort of plastic crush gasket. The Dorman one, I can't decide if that's rubber or poorly lit metal. 10k oil change intervals are fine on synthetics, especially if that still comes out to once per year or more often. You need to watch the oil level periodically on any engine anyway.
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Feb 19, 2018 20:57
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Is there a thread on car detailing?
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Feb 19, 2018 21:28
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turn it up TURN ME ON posted:Is there a thread on car detailing? Yeah, it falls off the front page regularly. Detailing Thread: Detailing never ends.
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Feb 20, 2018 00:33
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It's a great thread. The OP alone is pure (California) gold.
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Feb 20, 2018 00:40
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BlackMK4 posted:Alternator bearing? Does it happen if you remove the serpentine belt? (Water pump is cam belt driven in that so don't worry) I can try but I've never unseated it nor do I know exactly which belt that is. But I imagine i can look that up. Is checking what happens without the serpentine belt as simple as like pulling it off of a tensioner pulley or something?
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Feb 20, 2018 00:46
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I'd remove the belt altogether, since if it's still there but slack the crank could probably still whip it around easy. But yes, take the belt off, fire it up, see if you can duplicate the noise. You won't have a functional charging system while this is happening.
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Feb 20, 2018 00:52
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Since my owner’s manual thinks I shouldn’t have to know how to change my own oil, I’m asking here. Does an ‘09 Camry have a crush washer or a rubber gasket to seal between the bolt and pan? I do ~9k (whenever the oil life monitor on my car says it's time; it's usually 8500-9500), and always have on this car (the OLM is supposedly calibrated for conventional oil, I don't feel good running conventional or a blend that long though). Almost always with Mobil 1 High Mileage. I'm about to break 200k, got the car with 60k, and I haven't treated it nicely. There's definitely some varnish when I look in through the filler cap, but it only recently started leaking oil (engine has never been opened up, no gaskets ever changed), and it only loses about 2 quarts between oil changes (used to be 1 quart). If I switch brands it shoots up to 4 or 5 quarts between changes, but always goes back to the normal 1-2 quarts when I switch back to Mobil 1.  Also, why would you be losing oil with a timing belt? The timing belt isn't lubricated (unless you have a leaking cam or crank seal), and an 09 Camry has a timing chain anyway (which is very much lubricated, but it's behind a sealed cover).
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Feb 20, 2018 01:44
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Yep, I meant chain. So with the chain it's getting sprayed with oil but in a (mostly or fully?) enclosed system? I learned something today. I picked up some STP synthetic and a filter for $26. Hopefully that's not garbage tier oil, they had other specials at Autozone for synthetic for cheaper. This was just the cheapest one to have 0w-20, a lot bottomed out at 5w-20. Now I just have to wait for it to get above 0f or get in a heated garage.
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Feb 20, 2018 16:11
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I had a nearly identical problem on my car (just not as severe), and it wound up being the EVAP purge solenoid. And somehow the purge solenoid on the Ecotec 2.2 is also shared with a huge chunk of the mid 00s to mid 2010s GM lineup (including some 5.3s). My symptoms were less severe, but anytime I put gas in, it was hard to start, sputtered a bit, and would belch a nice cloud of black smoke from the exhaust if I managed to keep it running. If I let it die, it would usually fire right back up and run a little rough for a moment, then run fine. Only after getting gas. It always fires up relatively easily any other time (it has an occasional hard start where the starter cranks for 3-4 seconds before it fires, but it's been doing that for 5 years and hasn't gotten past "minor annoyance"). Replaced this and was able to easily blow through the old one (default position should be closed) so it was definitely bad. Will find out if that was the entirety of the problem on Friday when I next drive it for a while. Thanks! If you're ever in NY I owe you a beer (or two, or three...).
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Feb 20, 2018 17:00
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What does it usually mean when your truck is accelerating - and it experiences a few hiccups on its way to 30mph at low speeds? Like I'm slowly giving it gas to get it down the street, but it feels like it just chugs out a few times? Loses acceleration for just a moment... Check engine light also came on after this.
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Feb 20, 2018 17:33
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Dennis McClaren posted:What does it usually mean when your truck is accelerating - and it experiences a few hiccups on its way to 30mph at low speeds? Like I'm slowly giving it gas to get it down the street, but it feels like it just chugs out a few times? Loses acceleration for just a moment... Read the codes, it could be all sorts of things.
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Feb 20, 2018 17:38
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The exhaust manifold/header bolt situation is all jacked up. Good possibility this could cause a code to be thrown, right?
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Feb 20, 2018 18:21
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Define "jacked up." If the intake manifold isn't secure against the cylinder head you'd have a massive vacuum leak and it would probably show as more than a few hiccups below 30 MPH, and if the exhaust manifold/headers were loose you'd know about it from noise alone. The most likely scenarios for the problem (based on the limited information we have to go off of) is old/worn spark plugs, plug wires or coil pack(s)/distributor cap, or else a long overdue fuel/air filter change. Getting the codes scanned (assuming its a 1996 model year or newer) will tell you what the problem is.
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Feb 20, 2018 18:29
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Whats the deal with Diesel Exhaust fluid? Is that a stopgap thing or is it going to be in pretty much every new truck built from whenever they started using it until.............. sometime? My boss is looking at a new used truck for hauling around a new machine and is considering getting one thats only a year or two old. I don't want to have to bother with that poo poo if possible, because its just one more bit of fuckery.
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Feb 20, 2018 18:49
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It's urea so just piss in the tank and you'll be good.
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Feb 20, 2018 18:52
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