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It has been duly noted elsewhere, but I will go on public record to say that you, sir, are killing it lately.
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Feb 7, 2018 08:50
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ty friendo
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Feb 7, 2018 22:59
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Feb 13, 2018 00:35
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VelociBacon posted:^What would you say is the all-in cost of getting the equipment and enough supplies to dev 5-10 rolls?
I recommend mixing all chemicals with distilled water just so there's no issues with hard water/etc. Washing can be done with tap water, and if you get into it a column washer and a rotary base are really nice to have. Chemicals do go bad over time once they're mixed or exposed to air (one of the nice things about Rodinal is that it's a 1-shot - you dump it when you're done). You should dispose of the fixer properly when it's exhausted (try a local camera store). You can save a bit on the tank/reels by buying used, but make sure you get the kind of film reels with wide flanges to help keep the film from buckling.. The narrow-flange kind are a pain in the rear end. Some people prefer the metal tanks/reels, it's just different. Good:  Bad:  (they're so small you can hardly see them, but the flanges are at the 7:00 position, just little triangular nubs) Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Feb 16, 2018 |
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Feb 16, 2018 22:48
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I'd also like to note that the Arista Premium reels are compatible with Paterson tanks and cores, so you can get both reels that don't suck and a tank that develops more than one roll of 120. edit: the Paterson tanks also fill and drain dramatically faster than the Arista tanks. MrBlandAverage fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Feb 16, 2018 |
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Feb 16, 2018 23:27
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Yeah never buy the standard 2x35 Patterson tank always buy the bigger one. Minimum 3x35 but the pro option is the 5x35
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Feb 16, 2018 23:31
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MrBlandAverage posted:I'd also like to note that the Arista Premium reels are compatible with Paterson tanks and cores, so you can get both reels that don't suck and a tank that develops more than one roll of 120. I have something similar to the Arista tanks and it's never been an issue, even with fast developers.  Another nice thing about Rodinal is that if you use it highly dilute (eg 1:100) then since your dev times are 1h+ the fill/drain times don't really matter. Also, with the really big tanks, a lot of people fill the tank and then just dunk the column and put the lid on, rather than pouring to fill it, simply because pour times get excessive. Wild EEPROM posted:Yeah never buy the standard 2x35 Patterson tank always buy the bigger one. Yeah, if you are doing MF or LF then you want a 3x35. Otherwise you are doing 1x120 at a time, which sucks for doing large batches, and you can't fit Mod54 reels at all. Not strictly necessary for getting started though, and the official Paterson stuff is pretty expensive iirc. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Feb 16, 2018 |
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Feb 16, 2018 23:38
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Paul MaudDib posted:
I've found it far, far easier to use a film extractor to pull the leader back out, clip it off, and clip the leading part of the film to be a 45* angle. I pull it into the start of the reel in the dark, then do the twisting motion while holding the canister out with my fingers. The film pulls right off the inner spool pretty easily once you get to the end, or you can clip it if that's too savage for you. Messing with coiled-rear end film sucks rear end.
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Feb 18, 2018 20:19
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If you don't even want to gently caress with a film extractor, you can also just hulk the canister open by jamming your thumbs into the light trap and pushing them apart. You don't need to pull the outside cover off entirely, just enough to get at the film leader.
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Feb 18, 2018 21:46
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Huh, I'll have to try that. The extractor I have is a pain in the dick to use.
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Feb 18, 2018 21:50
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Don't rewind the film all the way. When I feel the film come off the take up spool I give it one more have turn then pop it out. Might not be an option with an motorized winder. I can pop the film door open at frame zero on my Nikon F80 to leave the leader out but that doesn't work on the F90, which can be programmed to leave the leader out if you happen to have some ancient tech lying around.
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Feb 18, 2018 22:17
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I try not to do that because it makes it harder to tell which films have been exposed already.
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Feb 19, 2018 17:14
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When I used to do that I would write "EXPOSED" on the roll in Sharpy, put it in back in the canister and draw an X across the lid. I used to leave the leader out because I would save the leftover roll for bulk loading and didn't want to fiddle with a retriever, but I've got so many empty rolls now (that I'm not bulk loading :\) I rewind all the way and hulk the lid off in the darkroom.
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Feb 19, 2018 21:50
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Feb 21, 2018 00:00
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Ektachrome in 8x10. <i>e: Broken!</i> Click for embiggening. Cassius Belli fucked around with this message at 08:43 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Feb 21, 2018 00:13
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That's neat.  Barton Creek by S M, on Flickr
SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Feb 24, 2018 |
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Feb 24, 2018 05:58
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Finally did my first actual shoot with my RB67, two rolls of portra 400 https://imgur.com/a/CGJfz
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Feb 25, 2018 11:35
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Skoora posted:Finally did my first actual shoot with my RB67, two rolls of portra 400 Looks like your back has some gnarly frame spacing issues?
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Feb 25, 2018 19:18
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MrBlandAverage posted:Looks like your back has some gnarly frame spacing issues? Ha ha, no I just goofed on advancing the film. My finger slipped off the lever thing
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Feb 26, 2018 06:11
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Hey all, quick super noob stupid question. I'm thinking about taking the plunge into large format within the year, but there's one thing I've been unable to get my head around. If you're shooting color film, how do you take it to the joint that does the developing? Do you leave your exposed film in the holders, or do you put it back in the box it came out of? Is it a personal preference? Again, I realize that this is a really ignorant question and I could probably find the answer through a quick google search, but I've been super curious about this and thought I might as well come to some people who will know for sure. Large format is intimidating in a way that I haven't felt in a while.
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Mar 1, 2018 20:16
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Tony Two Bapes posted:Hey all, quick super noob stupid question. I'm thinking about taking the plunge into large format within the year, but there's one thing I've been unable to get my head around. If you're shooting color film, how do you take it to the joint that does the developing? Do you leave your exposed film in the holders, or do you put it back in the box it came out of? Is it a personal preference? Again, I realize that this is a really ignorant question and I could probably find the answer through a quick google search, but I've been super curious about this and thought I might as well come to some people who will know for sure. Large format is intimidating in a way that I haven't felt in a while. I put it back in the box it came out of, but if you don't have a box handy my lab will unload holders for you before developing.
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Mar 1, 2018 20:21
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Yeah I put the film sheets back in the box, much easier than bringing 10 film holders to the lab.
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Mar 1, 2018 23:54
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Also if generally if you ask around you can get someone to send you a few empty boxes for the cost of postage so you have something to start off with.
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Mar 3, 2018 02:28
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Ok cool, thanks all!
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Mar 3, 2018 14:08
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It got a wee bit snowy in Bristol the other day, which I figured was the perfect excuse to dust off my Mamiya for the first time in about three years and go freeze my rear end off:     
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Mar 4, 2018 17:15
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Holistic Detective posted:It got a wee bit snowy in Bristol the other day, which I figured was the perfect excuse to dust off my Mamiya for the first time in about three years and go freeze my rear end off: Nice.
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Mar 4, 2018 17:42
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 1604 by S M, on Flickr
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Mar 5, 2018 04:36
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Mar 12, 2018 23:59
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Mar 14, 2018 12:29
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Shot with an Pentacon 50/1.8 Good times by roland luijken, on Flickr
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Mar 18, 2018 21:04
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 Lynn Canyon Park(2) by Trevor Zuliani, on Flickr Lynn Canyon Park(1) by Trevor Zuliani, on Flickr
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Mar 18, 2018 21:49
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Mar 22, 2018 07:44
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Mar 24, 2018 16:51
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God drat I love Portra 400 in 6x7. Been doing a lot more with my digital camera recently, and while much cheaper to shoot, there's no way it can touch the quality of the 6x7 negs.  Seguin by S M, on Flickr Austin by S M, on Flickr
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Mar 25, 2018 23:06
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Does anybody here use really cheap toy medium format cameras (e.g. Holga, Diana)? What are the results like?
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Mar 26, 2018 03:13
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don't get for the same reason you wouldn't get a 645
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Mar 26, 2018 04:11
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girl pants posted:Does anybody here use really cheap toy medium format cameras (e.g. Holga, Diana)? What are the results like? results are typically poor for the given format, that's why they call them "toy cameras". You'd be doing well to get 35mm quality out of a 6x4.5 toy camera... but that's not why you buy them. I always had fun with a Ikonta 521/16 with a f/3.5 Novar Anistigmat (fast triplet) and something like Ektar that responds poorly to mis-exposure.
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Mar 26, 2018 05:15
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girl pants posted:Does anybody here use really cheap toy medium format cameras (e.g. Holga, Diana)? What are the results like? If you're good enough in the darkroom, you can take the negatives from a quality camera and make them look like they came from a Holga. No matter how good you are in the darkroom, you CAN'T take the negatives from a Holga and make them look like they came from a quality camera. That should be all you need to know to stay away from a Holga for life.
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Mar 26, 2018 07:26
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girl pants posted:Does anybody here use really cheap toy medium format cameras (e.g. Holga, Diana)? What are the results like? The results are really crappy. Only get them if that is the desired result, which it sometimes is what people want intentionally.
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Mar 26, 2018 07:35
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There's quite a big lo-fi photography enthusiast following for stuff like that. At the artistic end, it's people playing with alternate processes and pinholes, at the bandwagon end it's hipsters dropping a few hundos at the Lomography store to get a refurb LC-A and some lovely film with light-leaks pre-applied.
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Mar 26, 2018 09:30
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