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Stephenls posted:How do I do weathering like this? In the comments he talks about using a sponge, but... that can't just be sponge chipping, can it? Like, he seems to have faded and distressed the decals in ways that are inobvious to me. This doesn’t seem to have garnered any replies, so let me ask in a different way. Anyone know any resources for how to paint black armor in a sort of blanchitsu-esque way? There’s a lot of resources for doing black in the ‘Eavy Metal style, and a lot of resources for doing flesh and leather and cloth in blanchitsu, but there’s not a lot of resources for doing black that looks oily or beat to poo poo or whatever while remaining noticeably black and not greying out.
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Feb 21, 2018 02:36
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Stephenls posted:This doesn’t seem to have garnered any replies, so let me ask in a different way. What I do (and my painting is very quick and dirty, so may not be quite as nice as what you're looking for) is start with a light gray undercoat and build up a couple layers of black (smaller or larger, more or less irregularly-shaped depending on how worn I want it to look) on that, using a pretty dilute, semi-translucent mix of first dark gray paint and black ink, then black paint and black ink. Then I go back and do metallic chipping in areas that I left more gray. I usually only do the undercoat and one or two layers of black, but it seems to me that you could build up more, and more-translucent, layers to get a pretty good effect. For an oily effect you could mix Smoke or whatever in with the paint/ink mix too.
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Feb 21, 2018 02:54
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Giant Ethicist posted:What I do (and my painting is very quick and dirty, so may not be quite as nice as what you're looking for) is start with a light gray undercoat and build up a couple layers of black (smaller or larger, more or less irregularly-shaped depending on how worn I want it to look) on that, using a pretty dilute, semi-translucent mix of first dark gray paint and black ink, then black paint and black ink. Then I go back and do metallic chipping in areas that I left more gray. Well, I’m doing the Dark Imperium Primaris Marines up, not some tiny kitbashed Inq28 warband for a diorama, so perfect isn’t on the table. Right now I’m thinking basecoat black, apply decals and white spots, chip with black over the decals, then drybrush with Leadbelcher in mostly downstrokes, chip with Leadbelcher in large open areas, and then start washing with Nuln Oil to dull down the Leadbelcher, but if that fails I’ll move on to something else for my next test marine.
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Feb 21, 2018 03:28
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For my quick & dirty black, I use an all over dark grey drybrush, then a light grey in down-strokes on the top half of the model and a chocolate brown drybrush in up-strokes from the feet. Then ink anything that looks too grey. It essentially uses weathering to cheat definition out of half the model, which avoids the problem of turning black into panzer grey.
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Feb 21, 2018 13:40
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BuffaloChicken posted:Nice to put faces to the Raven Guard from the podcast - they look great! Particularly like the power sword effect. I bailed on a team game? With you?
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Feb 21, 2018 17:44
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Bistromatic posted:Just put finished these guys. They could probably use a few touchups later but they're ready for the con this weekend. Ahead of schedule too! Sometime after i'll polish up the step by step guide and do a proper daylight shoot. Unlike my UCM these feel pretty hard to take accurate photos of.  These are amazing
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Feb 21, 2018 18:32
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Merton Blask posted:
They look great. How did you build them?
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Feb 21, 2018 18:52
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Does anyone have a link/links to good tutorials on painting eyes? I'm trash at them and remember one time seeing a visual guide showing the different steps. I've also tried the trick of just making two white dots instead of blacking out the pupil itself but it's too hard to get those accurately. Proof of awfulness: 
WorldIndustries fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Feb 22, 2018 |
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Feb 21, 2018 22:38
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Got bored at my flgs and decided to paint up the store's terrain: First time painting marble. Wasn't too worried about it being perfect as it's just going to get tossed around anyways.
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Feb 21, 2018 23:03
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I was watching a video last night where they mentioned doing a gloss coat before a wash means the wash settles more naturally. Is this best done with a spray? Or could I use the pot of Testors gloss I’ve got? If it should be sprayed what is the opposite to Testors Dullcoat? I can’t seem to find the gloss version.
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Feb 21, 2018 23:16
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The Sex Cannon posted:I bailed on a team game? With you? For some thread content, it's not quite paint yet, but these Squat machines are almost ready for primer. A Breaching Drill, because few things are Squattier than giant digging machinery:  And the Narrative Forge, a giant counts-as Dreadknight HQ. It has a suitably dwarf-looking head being sculpted right now, and all the books are going to be painted like rulebooks. Let's see if I can write "Codex: Squats" on one with a tiny single bristle.  Hammer mounted on a cut-down Icarus Autocannon, head removed for sculpting. The neck socket is actually the back of a dwarf cannon. Note that, due to a horrible pun made by one friend, the narratives being forged are now dropped into a hopper that feeds into the cannon (canon). 
BuffaloChicken fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Feb 21, 2018 |
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Feb 21, 2018 23:37
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Red_Fred posted:I was watching a video last night where they mentioned doing a gloss coat before a wash means the wash settles more naturally. Is this best done with a spray? Or could I use the pot of Testors gloss I’ve got? You can brush it on, but make sure to thin it a bit with spirit as it's quite thick. I recommend Pledge for a cheap acrylic gloss varnish. Testors is good too, but expensive and the fumes will mutate your children. You can mix acrylic gloss into your acrylic washes to make them behave like oils. Otherwise just put an oil over an acrylic gloss varnish. It's amazing.
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Feb 22, 2018 03:33
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BULBASAUR posted:You can brush it on, but make sure to thin it a bit with spirit as it's quite thick. I recommend Pledge for a cheap acrylic gloss varnish. Testors is good too, but expensive and the fumes will mutate your children. Interesting, just how different does it look by comparison to applying the wash alone?
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Feb 22, 2018 03:52
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BULBASAUR posted:You can brush it on, but make sure to thin it a bit with spirit as it's quite thick. I recommend Pledge for a cheap acrylic gloss varnish. Testors is good too, but expensive and the fumes will mutate your children. I got Testors Gloss Clear Acrylic, do I thin it with white spirit? Seperate question: what are some good Vallejo (would be open to Citadel too if it’s worth it) flesh tones to start with? I need to do some humans, dwarfs and elves. Would be great to pick up a few colours that would work across all three. I’ve been using Flat Flesh by Tamiya and it sucks so bad, splotchy and seems to dry really quick.
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Feb 22, 2018 04:02
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You wanna thin the Testors Gloss Clear Acrylic with water. If it's an enamel use spirit. As for using a matte vs gloss varnish undercoat- gloss doesn't pool the paint and lets it really gets into the cracks for stuff like pin washes. This is probably the best comparison shot I have: See how smudged it looks? That's because the undercoat varnish was matte. If it was a gloss varnish undercoat it would be much cleaner and look like runny water streaks instead. Stephenls posted:This doesn’t seem to have garnered any replies, so let me ask in a different way. I can't tell because the video quality is really blurry, but I do think he did it mostly with a sponge. He just used a few different colors and layered them between his base color. That's a bit labor intensive when you could just use an oil, but it does result in a really grainy look. If you wanna develop your own blanchitsu-esque style you'll wanna focus on what makes this sort of style work. Here are some guys I look up to:        If you break it down, besides the conversions, the main reason it works is color selection, attention to detail, and weathering. The style isn't trying to be realistic- there's specific color blocking and bright primary colors. The mood is set by the, almost always, dark/desaturated color palette. It's painting with specific colors, in a somewhat cartoony way, but making it feel grounded through weathering and details. I haven't found a guide for this, but if you wanna develop your own style I'd focus first on color choice and then on how you wanna weather the models. Then do some test models. Pigments and oils are super easy with fast results, but like all things you'll only get good with practice. I've deviated from the blanchitsu style lately (trying to create a unique cell shaded style), but here's some of my stuff:  
BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Feb 22, 2018 |
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Feb 22, 2018 04:25
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BuffaloChicken posted:Naw, I phrased that poorly - I had to shuffle games and was forced to bail on you! I think our Guardsmen were originally going to be allied in the first game you played, but I had to jump off to ensure a latecomer had an opponent (remember THE BOYS ARE BACK IN TOWN? That was us). It's hard being a host and making sure everything goes smoothly. Next time, though, I'd love if my Catachan could do some punching alongside your Steel Legion. Oh, ok. I was worried for a minute there. RE: The Narrative Forge - shine on you crazy, beautiful diamond.
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Feb 22, 2018 07:06
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What's the deal with the Howling Banshee/Lasgun dudes?
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Feb 22, 2018 07:25
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In 30k you can build auxillia armies by choosing different doctrines, kinda like IG back in 2nd or 3rd edition. These are my traitor militia 'corpse crows' that follow my IWs around. Here's my murder so far:
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Feb 22, 2018 10:14
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BULBASAUR posted:In 30k you can build auxillia armies by choosing different doctrines, kinda like IG back in 2nd or 3rd edition. These are my traitor militia 'corpse crows' that follow my IWs around. Here's my murder so far: Which provenances?
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Feb 22, 2018 11:05
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I've been hesitant to pick up oils since cheaper ones have a pretty nasty habit of yellowing. There are good quality ones that dont do that, I just haven't bothered putting in the research yet.
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Feb 22, 2018 12:19
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Stephenls posted:This doesn’t seem to have garnered any replies, so let me ask in a different way. If you want black armour like in that video I would spray models a very very dark grey, wash black all over. Get a fine sponge (like from a blister pack) and lightly dab the edges with it. Test on some sprue to get a feel. The same would basically apply for all the other colours he painted on the armour (e.g.. scab red, black wash, sponge silver). Looking at the video I actually suspect he has just gone straight black with sponge highlights.
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Feb 22, 2018 13:41
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Booyah- posted:Does anyone have a link/links to good tutorials on painting eyes? I'm trash at them and remember one time seeing a visual guide showing the different steps. I've also tried the trick of just making two white dots instead of blacking out the pupil itself but it's too hard to get those accurately. Dude - your eyes are good. If you're not taking a macro shot, those are going to look great. One technique I used to use, but haven't in a long time due to painting at a smaller scale, is: 1. Paint a darker/shaded version of the skin tone in the eye sockets 2. Fill in the eye with an off white (white is usually a little too bright and doesn't look quite natural) 3. Paint a colored dot just north of the horizontal centerline of the eye 4. Paint your darker/shaded version of the skintone over the top third of the eyeball - it should create a lidded eye effect Personally, I think your dorf eyes look good.
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Feb 22, 2018 15:04
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So I've been looking for Harlequin fusion pistols for awhile and they're impossible to find. I decided to sculpt my own out of green stuff. I'm trying to figure out the best way to make casts of it. I've found a bunch of tutorials on Youtube but I'm not sure which method will work well for small parts with lots of detail. Has anyone had experience with this?
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Feb 22, 2018 18:03
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Paint the eyeball black. Put a small white dot on either corner. Done. You don’t need to get fancy
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Feb 22, 2018 18:19
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Hixson posted:Paint the eyeball black. Put a small white dot on either corner. Done. You don’t need to get fancy I can't seem to get small enough dots with this method, let alone get the dots lined up. What brush and consistency of paint helps with that?
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Feb 22, 2018 18:22
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Booyah- posted:I can't seem to get small enough dots with this method, let alone get the dots lined up. What brush and consistency of paint helps with that? I use a W&N #000 brush for that kind of stuff. I used to have a lot of issues with the paint drying on the brush before I could get it on the model. Once I started adding a little glaze medium to a normal thinned down batch of paint it really helped
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Feb 22, 2018 18:28
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Neurolimal posted:I've been hesitant to pick up oils since cheaper ones have a pretty nasty habit of yellowing. There are good quality ones that dont do that, I just haven't bothered putting in the research yet. I've never had them yellow on me. I think that's because you dilute them so much with spirit. Schadenboner posted:Which provenances? Ferral Warriors and Tainted Flesh 
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Feb 22, 2018 18:47
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Red_Fred posted:I got Testors Gloss Clear Acrylic, do I thin it with white spirit? Anyone got any recommendations for flesh?
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Feb 22, 2018 18:53
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BULBASAUR posted:I've never had them yellow on me. I think that's because you dilute them so much with spirit. Nah, it has to do with the medium used in the paints:  titanium white, unsure of how long this test was done, stored in a dark environment  1.5 years, dark environment, titanium white and ultramarine blue, last row is just the medium with no pigments applied over acrylic white gesso. Basically over time it the medium tends to revert to its original color, which is yellowish. The good news is that this can be reversed, same test sheet as above, but left in direct exposure to sunlight for a month:  TLDR: store your oil-painted works somewhere with natural light and not in say, a boxed game, and try to lean towards oil paints that use walnut oil as a medium.
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Feb 22, 2018 19:59
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Neurolimal posted:Nah, it has to do with the medium used in the paints: The oil painting stuff that we tend to do rarely uses titanium white though, it's mostly browns and blacks. Not sure that yellowing will effect them as much.
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Feb 22, 2018 20:02
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Booley posted:The oil painting stuff that we tend to do rarely uses titanium white though, it's mostly browns and blacks. Not sure that yellowing will effect them as much. This is true, though there are people who like to paint entirely with oils, just felt like sharing this.
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Feb 22, 2018 20:03
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That's cool stuff Neurolimal. I had no idea so thanks for sharing. Looks like mine are all linseed. I think you'll only notice the effects if you're white washing or doing a dot filter with a lot of light colors.
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Feb 22, 2018 20:35
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Hixson posted:I use a W&N #000 brush for that kind of stuff. I used to have a lot of issues with the paint drying on the brush before I could get it on the model. Once I started adding a little glaze medium to a normal thinned down batch of paint it really helped Cool I'll give that a shot!
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Feb 22, 2018 22:08
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Red_Fred posted:Anyone got any recommendations for flesh? I don't know about Vallejo, but I've tried most of the citadel recipes and am by far happiest with kislev flesh and reikland flesh shade. By default I wash then clean up on the surface and that looks good for medium tone. For slightly darker tones I will wash and then shade the recesses directly with more wash. It also mixes well with a brighter white/bone color if you want to highlight it. Compared to others I've tried (bugmans, cadian fleshtone, etc.) I think it's the most natural look. I also like flayed one flesh with reikland flesh shade but that's for a much paler complexion. Let me get some examples together for you. e: these are pretty sloppy obviously but here are some tests I did a while ago:  From left to right 1. Bugman's glow with cadian fleshtone. I kind of stopped in the middle with this one. 2. Cadian flesh tone, reikland wash, kislev highlight. 3. Kislev flesh with reikland wash and no touch up 4. Kislev flesh with reikland wash, kislev touch up 5. Flayed one flesh with reikland wash and flayed one touch up WorldIndustries fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Feb 22, 2018 |
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Feb 22, 2018 22:16
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I'm liking how this Iron Golem I'm painting up is turning out. Primed it with vallejo black primer, did a heavy drybrush with vallejo metallic bronze and then a lighter one with vallejo metallic gold. I've not applied a wash yet, trying to think whether I wanna use my Nuln Oil or Army Painter Strong Tone. Depending how it turns out I might try to do edge highlighting as this thing has a lot of good spots to try that on.
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Feb 23, 2018 01:26
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Mini painting had made me hate the color yellow
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Feb 23, 2018 01:29
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edit: NM.
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Feb 23, 2018 04:21
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Booyah- posted:I don't know about Vallejo, but I've tried most of the citadel recipes and am by far happiest with kislev flesh and reikland flesh shade. By default I wash then clean up on the surface and that looks good for medium tone. For slightly darker tones I will wash and then shade the recesses directly with more wash. It also mixes well with a brighter white/bone color if you want to highlight it. Compared to others I've tried (bugmans, cadian fleshtone, etc.) I think it's the most natural look. This is awesome thanks. If I wanted to do test painting, like layering to see what colours work as highlights etc. could I just do this on paper? Or would that effect the colours when it dries? This is the hardest thing for me getting back into this hobby.
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Feb 23, 2018 05:34
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Red_Fred posted:This is awesome thanks. Depending on exactly what I'm testing I often use plastic spoons. They're plastic so can gear primed the same as anything, and have a bit of dimension to them. For things like skin you may want something with a bit more shape, so some cheap reaper bones can work as test figures. Or an old metal model you can just throw in acetone to strip.
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Feb 23, 2018 05:43
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Booley posted:Depending on exactly what I'm testing I often use plastic spoons. They're plastic so can gear primed the same as anything, and have a bit of dimension to them. For things like skin you may want something with a bit more shape, so some cheap reaper bones can work as test figures. Or an old metal model you can just throw in acetone to strip. As soon as I posted that I realised that I could just use some piece of plastic and then just spray a new coat of primer over it when I need to start again.
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Feb 23, 2018 05:53
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