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Good advice, thank you guys. I re-ran the print with a skirt instead of a brim and it came out perfect. The issue was the brim to part adhesion -- for whatever reason the part separated in two spots from the brim. With the skirt and Aquanet max strength on the glass the part stuck perfectly. Another plus is that it seems some of the quality issues have decreased significantly with the new, nice, flat, and properly leveled bed.
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Feb 22, 2018 02:59
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I've been really happy with a glass bed on top of my Maker Select v2 bed. It's way flatter and makes super smooth parts and I've had everything stick well with glue stick. For ABS I use a brim but PLA just a skirt to make sure the plastic is flowing well.
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Feb 22, 2018 03:08
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Jestery posted:So I've managed to fix my heatwave induced heat creep by Increasing print speed, decreasing retraction and increasing retraction speed. What kinds of temps are you printing at that a heatwave is impacting your prints?
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Feb 22, 2018 03:24
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It's TYOOL 2018 people, actual 3D printing surfaces exist, you don't have to use glue and hairspray.
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Feb 22, 2018 04:23
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I'm looking to buy my first printer, I was wondering for somebody who wants to 3d print organic type models, medium-large scale stuff (sculpted in ZBrush or modelled in Fusion 360), I don't care if I have to glue it together or sand poo poo I was just wondering if you guys would recommend the CR-10 or Prusia MK3 as far as print quality? The Prusia seems to have a lot of support and cool tech attached to it but the CR-10 and the Tornado (I think that's what it's called?) seemed to have a bigger build volume. I'm in the Northeast and I'm trying to transition from making video game art into making tangible art and getting more experience in 3d printing/CNC milling, of all scales and sizes. Any recommendations for a printer under $1k would be awesome. I just want to start making stuff that might intrigue local companies into hiring me since there seems to be more 3d printing and fabrication companies around my area than game development companies. I would really appreciate any guidance or advice on this.
ceebee fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Feb 22, 2018 |
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Feb 22, 2018 04:30
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duffmensch posted:What kinds of temps are you printing at that a heatwave is impacting your prints? I'm printing with a volcano setup But we have had pretty much constant 35-40 ° temperatures with significant humidity. Between the hotter ambient temps and thinner air from the humidity my hot end had been heating up enough for the filament to soften in the hotend. Particularly when the filament was sitting in the hotend during retraction/travel moves This on a Bowden setup had me go through nearly a half a kilo diagnosing the problem. Lesson learnt. Also can someone point me in the right direction to slow down on corners. That's "Jerk " right I use slic3r and it would really help my printing Jestery fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Feb 22, 2018 |
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Feb 22, 2018 04:40
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BMan posted:It's TYOOL 2018 people, actual 3D printing surfaces exist, you don't have to use glue and hairspray. I printed off a pair of these right after my last post and 1) they came out a lot better than before the glass bed (and some settings tweaks), and 2) holy gently caress did they stick hard to the glass. Had to pry at the fuckers with a really sharp knife.
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Feb 22, 2018 04:51
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BMan posted:It's TYOOL 2018 people, actual 3D printing surfaces exist, you don't have to use glue and hairspray. The buildtak stuff that came with the printer wasn't great. I tried a printinz plate and it got worse and worse over time. Glass and glue has been a big improvement over both.
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Feb 22, 2018 05:42
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Well, I would certainly recommend PEI to everyone (except the Ultem printing guy).
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Feb 22, 2018 08:10
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Prints should pop right off of glass+glue/hairspray if you just put the whole pane in the fridge/freezer. Assuming it's borosilicate glass, obviously. It's the one thing I miss about switching from an MPSM, with glass, to an anycubic i3. Ultrabase leaves a really lame texture on the bottom of prints. I preferred the glassy smoothness.
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Feb 22, 2018 08:28
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ceebee posted:I'm looking to buy my first printer, I was wondering for somebody who wants to 3d print organic type models, medium-large scale stuff (sculpted in ZBrush or modelled in Fusion 360), I don't care if I have to glue it together or sand poo poo I was just wondering if you guys would recommend the CR-10 or Prusia MK3 as far as print quality? The Prusia seems to have a lot of support and cool tech attached to it but the CR-10 and the Tornado (I think that's what it's called?) seemed to have a bigger build volume. I'm in the Northeast and I'm trying to transition from making video game art into making tangible art and getting more experience in 3d printing/CNC milling, of all scales and sizes. Any recommendations for a printer under $1k would be awesome. I just want to start making stuff that might intrigue local companies into hiring me since there seems to be more 3d printing and fabrication companies around my area than game development companies. I would really appreciate any guidance or advice on this. Ceebee, I'm printing organic models from Zbrush. I use a Lulzbot Taz 5 (they're up to version 6). I went with them because I was purchasing through my department, not with my own money; so I needed an approved vendor. Lulzbot has a warranty, their customer service picks up the phone and on the occasions that I needed to call they were helpful, the machines are open source but prefab so I didn't have to do much work after unpacking. If I was spending my own money I would go with the Prusa, but that's just based off what I've read from this thread. If you're going to be printing organic things, but they're going to be large, you may have to deal with a lot of supports. I'm attaching an image of my latest model that I've been printing for classroom instruction; on the left you can see how much support material is required to get the model on the right. The overall model is this one I have hosted on sketchfab, divided into two parts so the students can see how the bones go together. The most challenging part of that print is the nerves, which are narrower and cylindrical, and in parts of my model are not running on the surface of bones so they are suspended in air. I'm printing with a 0.5 mm nozzle; if you're planning on printing objects with thin string like parts- maybe a clown holding a balloon by a string, or a mech with thin hoses at its joints- you're going to want a narrower nozzle to achieve thinner diameters. But there's a tradeoff then with the overall speed. The larger nozzles can print layers faster. So you want to consider what kind of organic shapes you'd want to be printing, and at what scale. If you want to print larger objects, you want extruders that can push out more plastic. The larger of those two parts in my model took three days to print at a 0.25 mm layer height. The smaller part took two days at 0.2 mm layer height. If you're going to be printing with a lot of supports, you may want to consider a dual extruder. I printed this model entirely in PETG and then had to separate all the support material from the object. Doing that can be risky on an organic model like this where there are regions that are more fragile, and in fact some little bits did break off this model. With a dual extruder, you can print one material for the supports and another for the model itself, and if the two materials don't bond strongly, the supports come apart easier. There's also dissolvable materials. If you're interested in this so you can advertise your modeling skills to a toy company, but aren't interested in actually producing the products with the 3D printer long term, I would not bother buying one. It's a hassle learning to use it and troubleshooting. If you're looking to become an operator for a local company that's a different story. Also, I recently went to a Formlabs Roadshow- the company takes their machines with samples of output, gets a bunch of local users to speak on 3D printing in a panel format. I went to one in LA, they had Paul Gaboury from Pixologic hosting the panel and a bunch of folks from digital effects/games/toys industries talking about how they use 3D printing in their work- Aaron Sims was the most high profile, someone from Blizzard, someone that works for Hasbro. Anyway they use the Formlabs resin printers for their work and it does much better at recreating organic forms than you can get with the common FDM printers that the users in this thread use. Sims brought a model of the demigorgon that they did for Stranger Things, it was really nice, and one of the guys in the panel was showing a model he was working on with feathers inserted as a nano mesh, and then printed with the Form 2 printer; it was definitely reproduced better than anything I see coming out of the consumer FDM printers. You might want to look into getting experience with that depending on the companies you're looking at around you, but they are considerably more expensive- Form 2 I think retails at $3500 and the resins are like $150 per liter? Still consumer level, but not nearly as cheap as FDM where it's usually less than 2 grand for a printer depending on company and plastics run $15-50 per kg. Listerine fucked around with this message at 09:29 on Feb 22, 2018 |
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Feb 22, 2018 09:24
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BMan posted:It's TYOOL 2018 people, actual 3D printing surfaces exist, you don't have to use glue and hairspray. In TYOOL 2018, a package of consumable Buildtak that fits a 330mm bed costs twice as much as an ostensibly permanent piece of glass the same size. I have borosilicate plates on all three printers. I could buy those expensive fancy build surfaces that degrade over time, need to be replaced occasionally, and still need a flat base to adhere to...or I can use my dead-flat glass that shouldn't ever need to be replaced unless I drop it, and some 89 cent hair spray that simply works every single time. When the bed is hot, you'd need explosives to separate a print from it. When it cools down you can hear the parts popping themselves off.
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Feb 22, 2018 14:27
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BMan posted:Well, I would certainly recommend PEI to everyone (except the Ultem printing guy). For 99% of printing PEI is the way to go. As a permanent solution it can be refreshed almost infinitely with a light sanding, but isopropyl will do the trick most of the time.
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Feb 22, 2018 14:34
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Acid Reflux posted:In TYOOL 2018, a package of consumable Buildtak that fits a 330mm bed costs twice as much as an ostensibly permanent piece of glass the same size. Sure we could buy expensive boutique adhesives specialty-made and sold at a premium and shipped, or we can just use hairspray or gluestick which is available in almost any drugstore. I've tried 3 different sheets of PEI and every time have been disappointed. Things stick too drat well, and yet ABS somehow can still warp. The solution is... to apply hairspray or gluestick to it so why not just not use PEI? I'd love love love to have one of those popoff bendy PEI sheets they have on the MK3 though, I think that solves all problems once and for all. Although I think that about every new 3D printing thing. Well that will solve all everyproblem once and for all. "But..." I SAID ONCE AND FOR ALL!
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Feb 22, 2018 15:36
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Megabound posted:For 99% of printing PEI is the way to go. As a permanent solution it can be refreshed almost infinitely with a light sanding, but isopropyl will do the trick most of the time. Agreed. I'm running a thick PEI bed, not the paper-thin stuff that the MK2 shipped with. It's flat enough for my stuff, and ABS sticks really well, most of the time with just a skirt, but on thin parts, I'll put on a brim. Never printed a raft in my year+ of printing.
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Feb 22, 2018 16:33
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ceebee posted:I'm looking to buy my first printer, I was wondering for somebody who wants to 3d print organic type models, medium-large scale stuff (sculpted in ZBrush or modelled in Fusion 360), I don't care if I have to glue it together or sand poo poo I was just wondering if you guys would recommend the CR-10 or Prusia MK3 as far as print quality? The Prusia seems to have a lot of support and cool tech attached to it but the CR-10 and the Tornado (I think that's what it's called?) seemed to have a bigger build volume. I'm in the Northeast and I'm trying to transition from making video game art into making tangible art and getting more experience in 3d printing/CNC milling, of all scales and sizes. Any recommendations for a printer under $1k would be awesome. I just want to start making stuff that might intrigue local companies into hiring me since there seems to be more 3d printing and fabrication companies around my area than game development companies. I would really appreciate any guidance or advice on this. The Prusa is the best out of box experience as it's a drat good printer (though it should be with the price) and is actively supported by the manufacturer. If you have the cash and/or you need the back up then go Prusa. The CR10 and Tornado are good for their price but require more upgrades to get good and a more deeper understanding of 3d printing to get to the out of box experience of the Prusa.
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Feb 22, 2018 16:52
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I’m looking for advice on packing my 3d printer for an international trip across the pacific. I got a Monoprice 3d delta - the filament hasn’t even arrived yet. My options are: 1) Place it back in its original shipping cardboard box and check it 2) Reinforce the original shipping box and check it 3) Discard the cardboard box, fit it inside of a carryon sized bag and check it 4) Place it in my carry on bag 5) Place it inside a large bag and check it 6) Pay am astronomical amount of money to have it shipped internationally, subjecting it to as many tortures along the way.
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Feb 22, 2018 19:26
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(4) if you can swing it. You might get some strange looks at the security checkpoint but there's nothing illegal about taking a 3D printer on a plane, and checked baggage gets manhandled like you would not believe
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Feb 22, 2018 19:43
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Been using the same PEI surface for 2 years. My bed probably isn't that level. I don't care. I just print. I only use rafts on on very tall thin-walled objects. PLA, Semi-flex, Nylon.
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Feb 22, 2018 19:45
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Total 3DP newb here. I want to design and print a simple box for holding some standard playing cards. Is there anything I should watch out for when using my local library's printer?politicorific posted:I’m looking for advice on packing my 3d printer for an international trip across the pacific. I got a Monoprice 3d delta - the filament hasn’t even arrived yet. My options are: If you're worried about potential damage with any of these options, buy a wine cooler and stick it in there. Those things are indestructible.
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Feb 22, 2018 21:30
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SciFiDownBeat posted:Total 3DP newb here. I want to design and print a simple box for holding some standard playing cards. Is there anything I should watch out for when using my local library's printer? Don't print above 40% infill -- save yourself lots of time and money. Orient your part to minimize support structures. Good luck using a shared printer; hopefully it's in calibration
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Feb 22, 2018 21:34
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politicorific posted:I’m looking for advice on packing my 3d printer for an international trip across the pacific. I got a Monoprice 3d delta - the filament hasn’t even arrived yet. My options are: Get searched, no weapons Take printer on plane Print gun Hijack plane ... No ammo, poo poo.
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Feb 22, 2018 23:42
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cakesmith handyman posted:Get searched, no weapons Plan is flawed, needs a 700-hour flight. Plus 10% for calibration.
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Feb 23, 2018 02:38
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Sagebrush posted:Don't print above 40% infill -- save yourself lots of time and money. Cool, thanks! cakesmith handyman posted:Get searched, no weapons well then you just print ammo!
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Feb 23, 2018 20:46
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In my never-ending quest to blow all of my money on cheap PLA that may or may not just be poo poo on a roll, I ran across this stuff on eBay and decided to try some: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Pack-3D-Printer-Filament-1-75mm-ABS-PLA-For-Drawing-Print-Pen-MakerBot-1KG-E2/263175206930 Only comes in threes, so $30 for 3KG. I got some dark blue, which looks kind of dark purple-y on the roll but does indeed print to a rather pleasing deep blue, and also some Glod. That's what it says on the label anyway...I expected it to start playing music with rocks in1, but it just ran with normal printer sounds. Kind of disappointing. The gold is really more sort of a darker copper bronze, but it's still kind of a neat color. Overall it's decent stuff for $10/roll. Seems to like slightly lower temps than some other brands I have, both are running well at about 190. If you have a $30 bill to throw away this isn't the worst material you could spend it on. 1reference for folks who haven't read Pratchett
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Feb 24, 2018 02:03
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I think I'm going to bite the bullet and buy my first 3d printer. I'm going to go for the Prusa Mk3 kit. I am utterly a novice to 3d printing, but I have hobbyist experience in finish carpentry, running a lathe and mill, and building computers so I hope I'll be able to catch on quick. The website says they won't ship until March, so I have some time to prepare. Any tips from you more experienced folks? Any things you would recommend doing right out of the gate, or researching while I wait for the printer to arrive so that I'm best prepared? Any advice is appreciated!
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Feb 24, 2018 05:48
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NeurosisHead posted:I think I'm going to bite the bullet and buy my first 3d printer. I'm going to go for the Prusa Mk3 kit. I am utterly a novice to 3d printing, but I have hobbyist experience in finish carpentry, running a lathe and mill, and building computers so I hope I'll be able to catch on quick. The website says they won't ship until March, so I have some time to prepare. Any tips from you more experienced folks? Any things you would recommend doing right out of the gate, or researching while I wait for the printer to arrive so that I'm best prepared? Any advice is appreciated! Since you're building the kit, loctite the grub screws on the belt pullies. I had a layer shifting problem on my pre-assembled mk2s and I've seen a bunch of other folks with the same problem (could be confirmation bias). Blue loctite fixed it. e: other than that, take frequent breaks while assembling so you don't get frustrated and break something.
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Feb 24, 2018 07:51
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Thank you for the advice, I will take in on my carry on - I only brought a checked bag with me the first time; so I'm good to go. Okay, I've printed two models now. The first auto/cat came out with a small loop around the collar - is this part of the model? https://imgur.com/a/b6iHy  The second time I tried printing a Benchy and came out with a few problems. I'm not well versed in the terminology, so maybe you all can tell me what the defects are called and how to correct them. I preheated the bed temp to 50 C, and dropped the temp down to 195 during the print. Also, the bed takes forever to heat up; looks like I'll keep a hair dryer nearby to speed up the process.   I used Cura 3.0.4 and the profiles from here: https://www.mpminidelta.com/slicers/cura The slicer ended up having the printer go around the perimeter of the bed and printed a single layer build plate, am I supposed to scrape this off somehow? Profile - Super Fine - 0.08 mm PLA Quality: Layer Height = 0.08 mm Shell: Wall Thickness = 1.2 mm Top/Bottom Thickness 0.32 mm Infill: Infill Density = 20% Gradual Infill Steps = 0 Material: Printing Temperature = 200 C Build Plate Temperature = 60 C Diameter = 1.75 mm Flow = 100% Enable Retraction = yes Speed: Print Speed = 150 mm/s Travel Speed = 120 mm/s Cooling Enable Print Cooling = yes Support Generate Support = no Build Plate Adhesion Build Plate Adhesion Type = Brim Brim Width = 8.0 mm Special Modes Print Sequence = All at Once 3.67m ~10g 1h57min politicorific fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Feb 24, 2018 |
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Feb 24, 2018 14:10
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politicorific posted:The slicer ended up having the printer go around the perimeter of the bed and printed a single layer build plate, am I supposed to scrape this off somehow? As for your quality issues, on my Select Mini I've found the default speeds, temp, and even flow to all be a bit optimistically high. Dialing them down slowly helped significantly.
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Feb 24, 2018 16:33
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My enclosure is starting to take shape: Once i'm done with the enclosure I will know exactly where everything is mounting and I will be able to wire it to my duet wifi with new wire runs that are the correct length.
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Feb 24, 2018 19:44
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NeurosisHead posted:I think I'm going to bite the bullet and buy my first 3d printer. I'm going to go for the Prusa Mk3 kit. I am utterly a novice to 3d printing, but I have hobbyist experience in finish carpentry, running a lathe and mill, and building computers so I hope I'll be able to catch on quick. The website says they won't ship until March, so I have some time to prepare. Any tips from you more experienced folks? Any things you would recommend doing right out of the gate, or researching while I wait for the printer to arrive so that I'm best prepared? Any advice is appreciated! I was in your position 8 months ago and got a mk2. It was super easy get acclimated with everything, though make sure your stepper pulley grub screws get loctited for best print quality. All else I can really say is watch some Maker's Muse slicing videos on Youtube
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Feb 24, 2018 21:11
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Maybe also put loctite on the grub screw that holds in the hotend thermistor, I had that fall out once. Be careful not to over-tighten that one though since you can crush the thermistor.
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Feb 24, 2018 21:21
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BMan posted:Maybe also put loctite on the grub screw that holds in the hotend thermistor, I had that fall out once. Be careful not to over-tighten that one though since you can crush the thermistor. You need special loctite for high temps and that's only okay up to 230c. I think they make higher but if you don't get the right kind, the loctite will just turn to dust and hold nothing.
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Feb 24, 2018 23:49
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Standard blue (medium strength) loctite is rated up to 340C. The red loctite is serious business poo poo, heat is required for removal.
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Feb 24, 2018 23:57
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The trick with the hotend is to heat it up to a point beyond what you're likely to use when printing (I use 280C) and tighten any threaded couplings, including the nozzle, heatbreak, heater cartridge and thermistor, when it's hot. When it cools back down, the metal will contract and pinch the threaded parts tightly together. E3D recommends this procedure when assembling their hotends.
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Feb 25, 2018 01:33
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BMan posted:Maybe also put loctite on the grub screw that holds in the hotend thermistor, I had that fall out once. Be careful not to over-tighten that one though since you can crush the thermistor. Using a washer on that grub screw helps you keep that poo poo managed
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Feb 25, 2018 01:40
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EVIL Gibson posted:You need special loctite for high temps and that's only okay up to 230c. I think they make higher but if you don't get the right kind, the loctite will just turn to dust and hold nothing. Welp so much for that idea. Yooper posted:Standard blue (medium strength) loctite is rated up to 340C. The red loctite is serious business poo poo, heat is required for removal. I just looked it up and, uh, no
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Feb 25, 2018 01:53
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BMan posted:I just looked it up and, uh, no
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Feb 25, 2018 03:03
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BMan posted:Welp so much for that idea. The person you quoted didn't do the conversion from F to C. This is the data quote:The below information was taken from the Loctite Industrial Product Guide and as you can see all of the temp. ranges are -65 to 300 degrees F., except 272 red which is up to 450 degrees. The cure times vary except they all require 24 hours to cure fully. 450 f is 230c
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Feb 25, 2018 05:16
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Seriously you can just do the heat cycling thing I've never had a thermistor work loose in thousands of hours of printing with E3D extruders and I've never used loctite
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Feb 25, 2018 05:28
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