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Booley posted:Depending on exactly what I'm testing I often use plastic spoons. They're plastic so can gear primed the same as anything, and have a bit of dimension to them. For things like skin you may want something with a bit more shape, so some cheap reaper bones can work as test figures. Or an old metal model you can just throw in acetone to strip. When I was getting back into painting, I got some of the stupid stripperiffic wargames factory female zombies. Lots of exposed skin. They were dirt cheap, and if the skin color is weird they're zombies. For painting tips, I am a big fan of mixing different colors into skin tones. The standard Vallejo dwarf flesh(roughly equal to cadian fleshtone) is ok for speed painting, but mixing in a grey, purple, etc can really punch it up a notch. For my custodes captain I wanted a somewhat pallid tone, and dwarf flesh mixed with a hint of gray really delivers. Mixing flesh tones also gives a nice continuity. If you do do a flesh tone mixed with three different grays, or a purple, then straight then a bone color it will still look coherent because there is a component constant across all the layers.
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Feb 23, 2018 05:55
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Fin. This model has a lot of casting issues to deal with.     
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Feb 23, 2018 05:59
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Philthy posted:Fin. This model has a lot of casting issues to deal with.  That's a really smooth paint job there. Those glowy bits!Booyah- posted:e: these are pretty sloppy obviously but here are some tests I did a while ago: Those are pretty nice, actually. If you're curious about some Official Games Workshop© Flesh Tones™, the November '17 issue of White Dwarf had a page or two dedicated to reproducing some fairly common examples. I'm not posting images of the pages here because  , but the gist of it was this:Dark Flesh (think African/Caribbean skin tones) Base: Rhinox Hide Wash: Nuln Oil, all over Layer: Rhinox Hide, raised areas Layer: Doombull Brown, highlights Ruddy Flesh (typical AoS Khorne dudes) Base: Bugman's Glow Layer: Cadian Fleshtone, raised areas Wash: Reikland Fleshshade, recess shade Layer: Kislev Flesh, highlights Light Flesh (light Caucasian/GW customers) Base: Kislev Flesh Wash: Reikland Fleshshade, recess shade Layer: Kislev Flesh, raised areas Layer: Flayed One Flesh, highlights Layer: Pallid Wych Flesh, extreme/edge highlights Pale Flesh (sort of vampiric) Base: Rakarth Flesh Wash: Reikland Fleshshade, all over Layer: Rakarth Flesh, raised areas Layer: Pallid Wych Flesh, highlights Pallid Flesh (albino/canon Raven Guard) Base: Rakarth Flesh Layer: Pallid Wych Flesh, raised areas Wash: Reikland Fleshshade mixed with Lahmian Medium, recess shade Layer: Pallid Wych Flesh, highlights Layer: White Scar, extreme/edge highlights Obviously you can include your own variations to these recipes; for example, I like to mix a little purple in with the Reikland/Lahmian mix if I'm doing vampires or outlining scar tissue. You could also experiment with "unnatural" shades like Athonian Camoshade for zombies, Nurgle stuff, etc. But this was a nice little bonus in the middle of the magazine, and I in no sense purchased an entire issue of White Dwarf for what amounted to like 1-2 pages of content, nosirree.
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Feb 23, 2018 07:31
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:Got bored at my flgs and decided to paint up the store's terrain: This looks pretty good. BULBASAUR posted:You wanna thin the Testors Gloss Clear Acrylic with water. If it's an enamel use spirit. As for using a matte vs gloss varnish undercoat- gloss doesn't pool the paint and lets it really gets into the cracks for stuff like pin washes. This is probably the best comparison shot I have: Thanks for this. I'm doing agrax over yellow and its been a pain to clean up, all smudged up like that tank. Would a thinned coat of liquitex gloss medium/varnish over my models be enough to let the wash flow?
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Feb 23, 2018 12:05
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Flesh tones I think I'm going to give a few of these a try over the weekend. Thank you
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Feb 23, 2018 16:01
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Painted up Chaplain Grimaldus and his hype men - some of my favorite sculpts I've ever gotten to paint:        I also converted up some markers for Age of Sigmar - 3 Hold the Line markers, Inspiring Presence, Wildform, and Mystic Shield: 
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Feb 23, 2018 18:35
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Science Rocket posted:I think I'm going to give a few of these a try over the weekend. Thank you Hey, don't thank me. Thank Games Workshop©®™. I've actually discovered a succession of flesh tones I like to use, from a couple of different paint companies (and mostly not GW  ). I'll obviously supplement these with GW washes, depending on the general tone I'm going for. Here are the paints I use, from darkest to lightest:Vallejo Game Air (VGA) Charred Brown VGA Dark Fleshtone Privateer Press (P3) Khardic Flesh P3 Midlund Flesh P3 Ryn Flesh VGA Pale Flesh Vallejo Model COlor (VMC) Pale Sand VMC Light Silvergrey or GW Pallid Wych Flesh I'm fond of the VGA and P3 paints because their consistency is a lot smoother out of the bottle; P3 in particular gets this by using inks as their main pigments. Vallejo also has a handy flesh-painting set for their VGA paints. Reaper also makes a series of Triad paints, which are (as the name implies) three paints that together make up a base/shade/highlight combination for a particular color value. Several of these triads are for flesh tones, and they're pretty great, though they sometimes need a little embellishment with other paints/washes to really pop. I used one of the triads on the skin of this Fat Yuan-Yuan:  This was the Reaper Olive Skin Triad, shaded with some Agrax Earthshade/Lahmian Medium combo, and with the topmost highlights boosted a bit with some VMC Pale Sand. All of the paints I've suggested above can be thinned with a glaze medium (I like Vallejo's), which will help you apply them in thin, translucent layers to build the color to the intensity you want. Flesh is almost never angular, so anything that can help you get smooth transitions between shades is helpful. Hope that helps! SRM: ...holy poo poo, dude. Those BT's look great!
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Feb 23, 2018 18:48
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I have been practicing :3 
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Feb 23, 2018 19:46
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That looks pretty dang good, Lethemonster.Skails posted:Thanks for this. I'm doing agrax over yellow and its been a pain to clean up, all smudged up like that tank. Would a thinned coat of liquitex gloss medium/varnish over my models be enough to let the wash flow? You bet. Put a thin coat of gloss varnish on your tank. Then put some gloss medium/varnish into your wash. It will make it flow like butter and will really help with pooling. If you have an airbrush you can spray the wash onto your model to create a filter like effect. If your goal is to only shade the cracks use a brush.
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Feb 23, 2018 21:49
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Lethemonster posted:I have been practicing :3 That's some darn nice weathering you've got there, Lethe. What's your technique?
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Feb 23, 2018 22:18
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Skails posted:This looks pretty good. Hey thanks! 
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Feb 23, 2018 22:22
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To put my money where my mouth is regarding the gray and flesh tone, have a shield captain.   
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Feb 23, 2018 23:18
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Thanqol posted:That purple desperately needs an edge highlight. It's so dark it's similar to the green which just makes the colours run into each other. Get a light purple and do an edge highlight and it'll clearly define the colours so much better.   I was so excited that I finally put together some Plague Marines that weren't from the 'Know No Fear' set that I skipped purple highlights completely for the squad so far.
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Feb 24, 2018 00:50
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Lethemonster posted:I have been practicing :3 This is a very cool chieftain! So I recently got my first airbrush, an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and I was wondering if there's an ideal thinning ratio for vallejo model and game colour for airbrush usage?
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Feb 24, 2018 10:31
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Science Rocket posted:
Looks so much better!
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Feb 24, 2018 11:40
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MG42 posted:This is a very cool chieftain! There's no ideal because it's relevant to the individual paints, which each have different viscosities and pigments grain sizes, and how close you are to the model and what you pressure is. A good rule of thumb is to thin things so that if you dip a soft paint brush in it and lift it out, the paint it will drip off it. At that point, any paint should run through the brush without clogging or drying even down to 8psi. I really recommend the vallejo airbrush thinner and cleaner. I spent ages convinced that eh, I could make my own there's no difference, but those things are magic. When you're first getting used to airbrushing I recommend erring on the side of thinner layers which you can dry quickly using the airflow from the airbrush as opposed to thicker paint for less layers. It's worth picking up a few of their specialist airbrush paints and seeing how they feel so you have a good idea what to aim for.
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Feb 24, 2018 11:59
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Thanks for the advice! I had ordered the airbrush thinner, cleaner and flow improver with my airbrush, so that's covered. Now that I think of it, I have a bottle or two of vallejo model air paints and play around with those.
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Feb 24, 2018 15:59
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Lethemonster posted:When you're first getting used to airbrushing I recommend erring on the side of thinner layers which you can dry quickly using the airflow from the airbrush as opposed to thicker paint for less layers. I no longer do this because you will often times have left over droplets of paint and water in and around the tip and while you are blowing air, it'll randomly pick up those droplets and you'll wonder why your perfectly smooth cape transition now has red dots all over the recesses. Then you will become very very angry. If you want to speed up drying, I suggest a hair dryer. As much as blowing air through an airbrush is convenient, it's too much risk. At least, for me.
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Feb 24, 2018 16:18
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I got a manly hair drier. A Heat Gun. It cost like 15 bucks and I can use it for home repair stuff. It is also quieter than a hair drier, which is good because my painting time is after the kids are asleep. Pro tip: never use the high setting, it is way too hot.
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Feb 24, 2018 17:37
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Heat guns are also great for bending resin or polishing shoes!
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Feb 24, 2018 17:45
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Polishing shoes?
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Feb 24, 2018 17:52
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You use it to heat up the shoe polish. We used to light the polish on fire briefly before rubbing it onto our boots back in the navy.
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Feb 24, 2018 17:56
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You can also use it to melt the polish into the cracks and pores of the leather after it's on your boots, it's part of how how you can get that glass finish.
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Feb 24, 2018 18:01
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Pledge Future is your friend when spraying with acrylics, by the way. It's a great general-use thinner for any weird bottles of paint you find. Just 50/50 it with water and make sure to clean it out of the brush after. It's also extremely cheap for a bottle that will last you a century.
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Feb 24, 2018 18:45
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Total mini painting newb here. I'm going to be doing a lot of experimentation and reading over the next few months to prepare for my first mini painting adventure. Just one odd question: does the length of time between priming and painting matter at all? I live in an apartment and plan to airbrush prime at my parent's house. But depending on how much personal time I'll have while I'm there, I might end up leaving the primed minis at the house and coming back another time to pick them up. They live a non-trivial amount of driving away from me. Edit: also, is there anything in the OPs that is completely out-of-date in tyool 2018?
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Feb 24, 2018 18:55
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SciFiDownBeat posted:Total mini painting newb here. I'm going to be doing a lot of experimentation and reading over the next few months to prepare for my first mini painting adventure. Only if you let them get dusty and don't clean the dust off. It's actually recommended by some primers to let them dry for at least 24h before you paint over them.
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Feb 24, 2018 18:56
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I’ve just finished painting my first ever mini figures and I’m pretty happy with them. Just need to tidy up the edges of the bases. I’ve got some cheap Space Wolves off eBay to strip and paint now.
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Feb 24, 2018 21:51
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Any tutorials or information on making models look wet, like they're in the rain? A buddy of mine is trying to get that effect for his skeletons and I'm not sure where to point him to. Bases are easy enough with wet effects but I'm more interested in the models themselves.
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Feb 24, 2018 22:53
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Use acrylic gloss medium/varnish and paint it on in the areas you want to look glossy (after you use your Dullcote, of course!). Most single-part water effects are effectively just arcylic gloss medium too. Usually the biggest difference - if any - is that they're heavier-body (i.e. more viscous).
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Feb 24, 2018 23:30
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Finished up a mini for a half-orc warpriest I'm playing in a friend's game.  
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Feb 24, 2018 23:36
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in circles posted:I’ve just finished painting my first ever mini figures and I’m pretty happy with them. Just need to tidy up the edges of the bases. For your first effort these are amazing. For someone who's been at it for years these are more than "tabletop quality". Just don't play Space Wolves and you have a bright future ahead of you.
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Feb 25, 2018 00:57
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in circles posted:I’ve just finished painting my first ever mini figures and I’m pretty happy with them. Just need to tidy up the edges of the bases. These look really good! Love those beaker marines. JackMann posted:Finished up a mini for a half-orc warpriest I'm playing in a friend's game. Tabard and leather shading is tiptop. Philthy fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Feb 25, 2018 |
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Feb 25, 2018 03:03
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My next army will probably be Drew Carries, so I'm trying out some colour schemes. To start with, evil Iyanden.    I don't mind it, I'm probably going to change the skin suit to black tho. The light brown is too bland. It's also a timely reminder that I'm still shithouse at free handing.
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Feb 25, 2018 04:28
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I really like it, but if you're going to add flowers stick to red, the green don't stand out and kind of detracts. Alternatively, consider violet.
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Feb 25, 2018 05:18
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Boon posted:I really like it, but if you're going to add flowers stick to red, the green don't stand out and kind of detracts. Alternatively, consider violet. Yeah, 100% agreed. In the army I think I'll drop freehand altogether, or at most do the Dark Eldar sharp tribal patterns.
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Feb 25, 2018 05:27
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Thread, meet the small construct.    Found amidst a long dead menagerie, this creature succumbed to a parasite, which culminated in the prodigious growth sprouting from its back. The wizard, ever the pragmatist, saw the potential in this being's state and gave it new life and purpose - as a mobile hygienic dispenser. "It has life but does it feel? Does it dream? Is it aware of what it has become or, is it forever in a restless fugue from which it may never wake?" If you hadn't guessed, the colour scheme was based on Hollow Knight. My little tribute to an amazing game
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Feb 26, 2018 14:25
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Chance II posted:You use it to heat up the shoe polish. We used to light the polish on fire briefly before rubbing it onto our boots back in the navy. We would melt ours in an iron - just put the polish tin on the face of the iron for a bit. Got some drat fine looking boots out of that technique.
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Feb 26, 2018 15:29
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Traditional Games: Miniature Painting - Boot-Polishing Tips and Tricks Edition
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Feb 26, 2018 20:53
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I'm just imagining someone holding a 28mm scale polish brush in a pair of tweezers, gently rubbing his mini's boots
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Feb 26, 2018 20:56
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Neurolimal posted:I'm just imagining someone heating a 28mm scale polish tin on the tip of a soldering iron and holding a brush in a pair of tweezers, gently rubbing his mini's boots And I bet there are already crazy Japanese modelers doing just that. ed: wait wtf this isn't the scale model thread?
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Feb 26, 2018 21:51
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