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The Moon Monster
Dec 30, 2005

Winsor and Newton brush restorer is super great! I was skeptical but my brushes are nicer now than I ever remember them being. I bought them as a rank newbie so I guess I must have ruined them immediately.

Speaking of poo poo you can buy, does anyone have recommendations for good but not too expensive desk lamps? I've gone from "drat this looks awesome!" when painting something at night to "Oh! Oh no!" when seeing it in the light of day a few too many times now.

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Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]
Question: Anyone have any experience drybrushing using a paint that's been diluted with medium?



The above is the result of... a lot of different steps that I go into detail on in the steady progress painting thread, and ultimately I'm not happy with it, but one of those steps is a Leadbelcher drybrush. I'm considering iterating using a drybrush of 1:1 or 2:1 Lahmian Medium / Leadbelcher, on the theory that that might highlight the edges more subtly.

Is that liable to fail catastrophically because of something that happens when you drybrush with medium-diluted paint?

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

You shouldn’t really ever be using diluted painted when drybrushing, it just makes it harder. You control the softness of a drybrushed effect by how much paint is loaded on the brush, and how aggressively it’s applied. For what it’s worth that model looks really good to me.

e: if you want a more subtle highlight while still using drybrushing, mix in some of the base colour into the highlight colour.

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]

ijyt posted:

You shouldn’t really ever be using diluted painted when drybrushing, it just makes it harder. You control the softness of a drybrushed effect by how much paint is loaded on the brush, and how aggressively it’s applied. For what it’s worth that model looks really good to me.

Hmm. Maybe I can just brush it more gently, then.

I do think the model looks good! It just doesn’t look at all like a heavily weathered Raven Guard.

ijyt posted:

e: if you want a more subtle highlight while still using drybrushing, mix in some of the base colour into the highlight colour.

Difficult, when the surface being drybrushed is itself an airbrush gradient.

vaginite
Feb 8, 2006

I'm comin' for you, colonel.



Hi guys

I'm really smart and stuff and went to spray rattle-can matte varnish on some models I spent quite a few hours painting. They started to turn white and I thought the humidity or temperature was off or whatever so I tried in my garage and they got frosted looking too. Turns out the can of matte varnish I was holding was actually skull white base coat.

The maybe good news is that I was spraying my "matte varnish" onto them over a pretty thick gloss varnish. I did this like a month ago but it just donned on me that maybe I can get just the skull white off because of the gloss varnish coat. What is a good way to do that?

TTerrible
Jul 15, 2005
Goddamn hahaha I’m sorry.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
You could try mineral spirit

vaginite
Feb 8, 2006

I'm comin' for you, colonel.



BULBASAUR posted:

You could try mineral spirit

I’ll buy some and give that a shot - I’ll let you know if it works :)

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
Good luck. Just don't soak it in it. Apply it with a brush and then try to rub the paint off.

Salynne
Oct 25, 2007
A q-tip might be the best way to carefully rub the areas you want gently with it, just adjust the tip with some clippers.

Edit: keep water and another q-tip on hand in case you need to get the spirit off quickly too.

Big Willy Style
Feb 11, 2007

How many Astartes do you know that roll like this?
You dumb bastard.

vaginite
Feb 8, 2006

I'm comin' for you, colonel.



Big Willy Style posted:

You dumb bastard.

If you read my original post I pretty clearly state I'm smart and stuff.

Anyway here's a pic:



He's next to one I didn't gently caress up for reference but I have 8 of these that got some degree of white on them. I'm kind of hoping that because this paint is sitting on top of a hard gloss varnish I can chew off the paint but not through the varnish and salvage it.

I'll see if I can find some mineral spirits locally tomorrow, if not I'll order it online. Either way once I get it I'll post the results just in case someone does this exact same really stupid, really specific thing in the future.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
Is the varnish acrylic or enamel? If it's acrylic the spirit should work. If it's enamel your mileage will vary.

Neurolimal
Nov 3, 2012
Is it a base coat or primer? If it's primer it's likely cold lacquer, which means by design it wont bite into your mini, and should be removable with some spirits and Qtips. If it's a base coat it might still be cold lacquer (I dont own any GW sprays), but if not then it's hot lacquer and has likely bonded itself at this point.

Spirits thins enamel and can weaken fresh (1-2 weeks) lacquer, but depending on your sealant can break that as well; dullcote is a cold lacquer, Future is an acrylic, and I believe Testors Gloss is enamel.

Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 07:36 on Feb 27, 2018

vaginite
Feb 8, 2006

I'm comin' for you, colonel.



I'm not really sure from reading the can about whether it's enamel or not. I don't think it is because it's rust-oleum and every rust-oleum thing I see that's enamel has "ENAMEL!!" plastered all over it and this can doesn't.

The gloss varnish is Rust-oleum universal advanced formula - clear durable topcoat (any surface any angle!) - gloss. It also provides UV protection. Here's a link to the exact can:

https://www.michaels.com/rust-oleum-universal-gloss-spray-paint/M10517331.html?dwvar_M10517331_color=Clear

The spray over it is just Citadel Skull White. Pretty sure from reading other stuff it isn't a primer think it's just acrylic in a spray can.

vaginite
Feb 8, 2006

I'm comin' for you, colonel.



General Olloth posted:

A q-tip might be the best way to carefully rub the areas you want gently with it, just adjust the tip with some clippers.

Edit: keep water and another q-tip on hand in case you need to get the spirit off quickly too.

You mean just like use sprue cutters to make a q-tip into a point? I always doomed myself to the lovely round profile of Q-Tips out of a box. That's so drat simple and useful for tons of stuff and I never thought of it - I love this thread :3:

The One-Two Punch
Dec 10, 2008

vaginite posted:

You mean just like use sprue cutters to make a q-tip into a point? I always doomed myself to the lovely round profile of Q-Tips out of a box. That's so drat simple and useful for tons of stuff and I never thought of it - I love this thread :3:

you can also get pointed manicure qtips and inter dental brushes, which i've found to be pretty handy for cleaning in nooks and crannies

https://www.amazon.com/Q-tips-Cotton-Swabs-Precision-Tips/dp/B005XIM6J2

https://www.amazon.com/DenTek-Profe...N3F1926Q4BV7ZD1

Safety Factor
Oct 31, 2009




Grimey Drawer
I've been working on my Shadespire orcs and they're almost finished, but I thought I'd post them up to get some thoughts.


The basic idea was to mimic an old WHFB Black Orc paint scheme with black armor, white checks, and some weathering. This was my first attempt at weathering (I typically favor clean schemes) and I tried out sponging. I used a dark metal followed by GW's leadbelcher and edged those sections with dark brown. In hindsight, I should have sponged with the brown first, but I think that all turned out fine and I'm pretty happy with it. However, I'm still iffy on the weapons. I was trying to make them look like big, lovely hunks of metal and used a lot of drybrusing followed by normal edge highlighting. I later added the brass as they were just too plain. I'm not 100% happy with the drybrushed look, but that could just be because it's not my usual style. Do y'all think it would be worth redoing weapons or am I just being weird?

The bases aren't quite done either. They've been done in a greyish tone as I figure Shadespire's not exactly teeming with life and don't do much to offset the black armor. I will be adding a tuft or two of dead grass once the models are varnished.

Safety Factor fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Feb 27, 2018

Neurolimal
Nov 3, 2012
If it's just spray acrylic then you should have a pretty easy time removing it with water and a little pressure, especially if it's not that old.

And yeah, Rustoleum is almost always lacquer, so your top coat should be pretty durable.

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]
Aren't the Citadel basing sprays lacquer-based, though?

Zeppelin Insanity
Oct 28, 2009

Wahnsinn
Einfach
Wahnsinn
I kinda think your white frosted dudes look better. It's a cool color palette.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Stephenls posted:

Aren't the Citadel basing sprays lacquer-based, though?

Most sprays are. If they are water based, they are going to say so quite explicitly on the label.

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006

I only pray, Heaven knows when to lift you out
Been slowing working on the giant backlog of projects I have on my shelf. I picked up this set years ago and finally said screw it. I don't even game anymore but if I ever get the chance to, I'll have a lot of fun terrain to use!



Hixson
Mar 27, 2009

Safety Factor posted:

I've been working on my Shadespire orcs and they're almost finished, but I thought I'd post them up to get some thoughts.


The basic idea was to mimic an old WHFB Black Orc paint scheme with black armor, white checks, and some weathering. This was my first attempt at weathering (I typically favor clean schemes) and I tried out sponging. I used a dark metal followed by GW's leadbelcher and edged those sections with dark brown. In hindsight, I should have sponged with the brown first, but I think that all turned out fine and I'm pretty happy with it. However, I'm still iffy on the weapons. I was trying to make them look like big, lovely hunks of metal and used a lot of drybrusing followed by normal edge highlighting. I later added the brass as they were just too plain. I'm not 100% happy with the drybrushed look, but that could just be because it's not my usual style. Do y'all think it would be worth redoing weapons or am I just being weird?

The bases aren't quite done either. They've been done in a greyish tone as I figure Shadespire's not exactly teeming with life and don't do much to offset the black armor. I will be adding a tuft or two of dead grass once the models are varnished.

Looks really good. Nice work

Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer
Has anyone used this gold recipe for golden armor?

Balthasar Base, Agrax Shade, Gehenna's Gold Layer, Auric Armor Gold highlight.

I saw the recipe online but there wasn't any accompanying photos, so i'm wondering how it looks. I want to make my Vertus Praetors have darker, older armor than the jetbikes themselves, and i thought this would do the trick.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Zuul the Cat posted:

Has anyone used this gold recipe for golden armor?

Balthasar Base, Agrax Shade, Gehenna's Gold Layer, Auric Armor Gold highlight.

I saw the recipe online but there wasn't any accompanying photos, so i'm wondering how it looks. I want to make my Vertus Praetors have darker, older armor than the jetbikes themselves, and i thought this would do the trick.

I haven't used it myself, but that recipe is in the gw paint app. This is their example:

Shadin
Jun 28, 2009

berzerkmonkey posted:

Most sprays are. If they are water based, they are going to say so quite explicitly on the label.

The Citadel ones definitely are because trying to strip Chaos Black is a massive bitch.

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer
I painted a thing.




Warboot
Dec 13, 2012

Snuff films...Ya know, for kids!

My favorite of those guys is the one deploying the tactical hug.

Ignite Memories
Feb 27, 2005

Booley posted:

I painted a thing.






gently caress yeah, that's my kind of tasty candy apple death machine

Red_Fred
Oct 21, 2010


Fallen Rib

Booley posted:

I painted a thing.






Um wtf? I thought this thread was amateurs... that’s amazing.

bonds0097
Oct 23, 2010

I would cry but I don't think I can spare the moisture.
Pillbug
That red is incredible.

Big McHuge
Feb 5, 2014

You wait for the war to happen like vultures.
If you want to help, prevent the war.
Don't save the remnants.

Save them all.
Well I was about to paint some stuff this evening but now I'm just going to set all my paints on fire instead.

waah
Jun 20, 2011

Better stay in line when
You see a Pavel like me shinin

drat dude, that's impressive. Like wow.

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer

Big McHuge posted:

Well I was about to paint some stuff this evening but now I'm just going to set all my paints on fire instead.

The only way to get better is to paint more. Don't get discouraged. Post more, ask questions.

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



So what's that red made out of?

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?
Lemme guess: zenithal priming, Tamiya Clear Red, then gloss coats?

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer

Slimnoid posted:

Lemme guess: zenithal priming, Tamiya Clear Red, then gloss coats?

Nope.

It's straight out of the FW masterclass book. Iron Hands Steel base with a zenithal highlight of Vallejo Metal Color, some shading with Calth Blue and Mortarion Green, then a bunch of layers of Angron Red.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?

Booley posted:

Nope.

It's straight out of the FW masterclass book. Iron Hands Steel base with a zenithal highlight of Vallejo Metal Color, some shading with Calth Blue and Mortarion Green, then a bunch of layers of Angron Red.

Derp. I should've figured it'd be a metallic base! Too shiny for just basic zenithal.

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BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat

Booley posted:

I painted a thing.






Looking great, my dude!

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