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Does anyone have an easy aged bronze recipe? I’ve been doing a half-orc paladin and have done his armour with Tamiya Gun Metal washed with Nulin Oil and drybrushed with Tamiya Flat Aluminium. It looks pretty good but I think I need some contrast so I wanted to do the shoulder pads a different metal colour.
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Mar 1, 2018 02:36
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Booley posted:By real compressor you mean something like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/21-gal-25-hp-125-psi-cast-iron-vertical-air-compressor-61454.html. And your own garage to use it in. And earpro. Those guns are for painting cars/houses, not models. Clearly not an Imperial Guard player...
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Mar 1, 2018 03:47
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dexefiend posted:
Shameless crossposting! I painted Alarielle tonight! 3 hours or so for her. The beetle has been done for 9 months
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Mar 1, 2018 06:44
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I...uhh...I came here to cross-post from the oath thread but I'm.feeling really inadequate for some reason. That's stellar work, dexefiend! Ah, gently caress it. Oath Thread Crossposting Time! Dr. Gargunza posted:
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Mar 1, 2018 07:31
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Oath Complete! 
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dexefiend posted:Shameless crossposting! I painted Alarielle tonight! 3 hours or so for her. The beetle has been done for 9 months "Onward! To Fuddruckers!"
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Mar 1, 2018 08:14
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Hixson posted:I painted a 6x4 table with a SOTAR2020. You don’t need a paint gun wtf Did it take you a month?
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Mar 1, 2018 14:25
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berzerkmonkey posted:Did it take you a month? A couple weeks. I posted it in this thread E: most of that time was spent waiting for oils to dry
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Mar 1, 2018 19:16
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Booley posted:That looks really miserable. Just rent one of these: https://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/Medium-Duty-Paint-Sprayer/262906/index.html Can confirm: this bad boy works great. My brother and I did some cabinets with one of these - silky smooth coats and works like a dream. Speckled Jim posted:I don't believe fence painting dude is getting coverage like that with just one pass. There's no way he is on that old rear end wood, especially since it doesn't look sanded down or primered at all.
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Mar 1, 2018 19:32
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Speaking of airbrushes, I've been delayed in playing with mine for a bit but it's nice weather outside, so I'm going to play with using water. The main issue is: I need a text guide on putting together the entire setup so I can make sure I'm not loving up. This is because I have a severe hearing impairment and I can't follow uncaptioned videos well, like what's linked in this thread and what I'm mostly finding with Google. Does anyone have any nice links to text + pictures guides?
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Mar 1, 2018 20:45
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I'm getting back into miniature painting after about 10 years. I saw some videos of Warcolours in use and they seem right up my alley. I have a pretty basic question though. What is the difference between ink, glaze and the transparent paint line? Which would I use for what purpose? The line seems very blurry and I'm not sure if there's much point to buying an ink, glaze and transparent of the same colour.
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Mar 1, 2018 22:35
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Zeppelin Insanity posted:I'm getting back into miniature painting after about 10 years. I saw some videos of Warcolours in use and they seem right up my alley. I have a pretty basic question though. There is some overlap yes, main differences would be the selection of colours available. Inks will likely be more intense in colour compared to a glaze, with the intention being to use it as a shade rather than a filter, but they could be thinned down to a glaze. Glazes will be quite thin colours used to help blend transitions between similarly hued colours (eg reds to orange would be layered with a red glaze). They can also be used as a tint, especially on white but that’s what the transparent paints are best for. The transparents are similar to the glaze but with a stronger colour, more colour options, and are primarily used to tint the layer they’re going over, such as a metallic silver being turned into a metallic red (see Booley’s knight).
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Mar 1, 2018 23:27
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Another thing about inks- if it's an actual ink, the pigment doesn't break up when diluted with water. That's why inks are used to create washes. Using them undiluted results in a very intense color.
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Mar 2, 2018 01:06
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What size needle/what model is this ? Its so tiny https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I666n65AIw0
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Mar 2, 2018 03:32
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Red_Fred posted:Does anyone have an easy aged bronze recipe? I’ve been doing a half-orc paladin and have done his armour with Tamiya Gun Metal washed with Nulin Oil and drybrushed with Tamiya Flat Aluminium. It looks pretty good but I think I need some contrast so I wanted to do the shoulder pads a different metal colour. Does anyone have any recommendations for this?
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Mar 2, 2018 03:36
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Red_Fred posted:Does anyone have any recommendations for this? Typhus Corrosion put on very lightly?
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Mar 2, 2018 05:16
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Red_Fred posted:Does anyone have any recommendations for this? What temperature are you going for. If you're going for a warm, coppery weathered look, I can't recommend VGC Hammered copper enough as a base. Gives a strong contrast against brighter cooler metal colors. Not sure how well it'd stand out against a duller metal, but that depends on how bright you took it. If you're looking for specific recipes: VGC Hammered Copper, edge (or more than edge, depending on the effect you're seeking) highlighted with your favorite bronze, then washed with purple ink to taste. If you want, an extreme edge highlight of some sort of steel/silver might work well, but I think that depends on the other colors in your model. You don't want to make the bronze bleed into the iron sections.
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Mar 2, 2018 06:27
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Can anyone with experience with Vallejo Metal Colors tell me how they compare in brightness to gw leadbelcher/ironbreaker? I want to try one of them out but I'm not sure if Steel or Magnesium would be the right colors to try if I'm going for a slightly darker metal.
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Mar 2, 2018 07:55
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Booyah- posted:Can anyone with experience with Vallejo Metal Colors tell me how they compare in brightness to gw leadbelcher/ironbreaker? I want to try one of them out but I'm not sure if Steel or Magnesium would be the right colors to try if I'm going for a slightly darker metal. I found the closest match to Leadbelcher was Dark Aluminum.
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Mar 2, 2018 08:48
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I like VMA Gunmetal as a Leadbelcher.
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Mar 2, 2018 09:20
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Stephenls posted:I found the closest match to Leadbelcher was Dark Aluminum. Me too. Be aware that the metal color range is the consistency of an alcohol based paint, they can run like a wash if you're not careful. Everything is blindingly bright and blingy. I picked up the silver and its as close to chrome as a water based paint is going to get.
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Mar 2, 2018 09:49
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TTerrible posted:Me too. Be aware that the metal color range is the consistency of an alcohol based paint, they can run like a wash if you're not careful. Everything is blindingly bright and blingy. I picked up the silver and its as close to chrome as a water based paint is going to get. Cool. Is it best to undercoat black with these?
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Mar 2, 2018 09:51
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I've only ever put them over black, and they looked great. They might be ok over grey but might be weird over white.
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Mar 2, 2018 10:18
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Booyah- posted:Cool. Is it best to undercoat black with these? Gloss black, for best results. Vallejo makes a gloss black primer for use with them.
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Mar 2, 2018 10:19
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goodness posted:What size needle/what model is this ? Its so tiny Looks like a standard needle size but it appears he painting without the nozzle on the brush - you can see the threads where it should be. Very weird. The brush might be this one that he has in another video.
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Mar 2, 2018 16:49
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He seems to be using the a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution, you can even see the E pop into frame a little bit occasionally. And he just removed the needle guard, here's what the front end breaks down to:
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Mar 2, 2018 17:52
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Booyah- posted:Can anyone with experience with Vallejo Metal Colors tell me how they compare in brightness to gw leadbelcher/ironbreaker? I want to try one of them out but I'm not sure if Steel or Magnesium would be the right colors to try if I'm going for a slightly darker metal. Sorry I'm late! I've got 3 of the VMetalC paints: Magnesium, Burnt Iron, and Copper. Of the 3, Magnesium is the darkest, a couple of shades darker than Leadbelcher (for which it makes a nice undercoat or shade color). The Burnt Iron is a sort of silvery-brown color, which actually "feels" slightly corroded. It's a neat effect. Try it as a light overbrush on GW Warplock Bronze, or straight from the pot with a wash of Agrax or Nuln. The Copper is a satisfying, rich red, very shiny. For ease of use, I actually prefer this to their alcohol-based Liquid Gold Copper, and that paint has actual metal flakes in it.
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Mar 2, 2018 18:07
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I like their VMetalC Gold, though shade it with greens instead of reds/brown. In the grey spectrum, I have: Steel, Gunmetal, Aluminum, Dull Aluminum (dark to light) They are my go to colors, and I will prolly end up with more of them. That copper review makes me want it. dexefiend fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Mar 2, 2018 |
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Mar 2, 2018 19:48
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I really like Magnesium as my undercoat with Dark Aluminum over the top as a base color. Silver is a nice highlight, but chrome is even more shiny. I use both to create depth in the metal highlights on my crows.
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Mar 2, 2018 20:46
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Booyah- posted:Can anyone with experience with Vallejo Metal Colors tell me how they compare in brightness to gw leadbelcher/ironbreaker? I want to try one of them out but I'm not sure if Steel or Magnesium would be the right colors to try if I'm going for a slightly darker metal. Extremely, extremely fine mica. So airbrush them in short, controlled passes. Dark Aluminium or Magnesium would be the go for the darker metals. Steel and Aluminium are very bright and bold.
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Mar 2, 2018 22:36
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dexefiend posted:I like their VMetalC Gold, though shade it with greens instead of reds/brown. Do you have any pics of this? I just bought that gold and love it but shading it with Reikland per my usual MO looked like butthole.
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Mar 2, 2018 22:39
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See the Alarielle at the top of the page. Her hat is gold and a green wash.
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Mar 2, 2018 23:35
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 Got me an angry elf spellcaster for Warmachine basecoated, and before I really get too far into things, I was wondering what color to use for the various buttons, buckles and other gubbins. Originally, I'd used a silver before, and that looked OK, but I'm not sure if I want to go with that again, or use another metallic like gold or copper. It's kind of an important choice, too, as it would not only be influencing how I go from here on this model, but also details on other elf models as well as the various mechanical underpinnings of the warjacks. I've already stripped and repainted once, and I'd really rather not do it again, so I'd like to not gently caress up the color composition too badly.
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Mar 3, 2018 00:27
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They see me rollin’, they hatin’   Finished up my first shield-captain.
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Mar 3, 2018 05:02
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^^Sup Macro Mat warm background buddy Finished up some Intercessors this week:  And a Primaris Captain:     I'm very happy with how the captain turned out. Fantastic model, and tons of fun to paint.
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Mar 3, 2018 19:48
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I loved converting the Captain into a Lieutenant. Awesome pose.
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Mar 4, 2018 01:04
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Thanks for the advice on the vallejo metals! It sounds like dark aluminum is the one to try. Does anyone have a recipe for painting wood that theyre happy with? I hate doing things like wood weapon handles or gun stocks.
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Mar 4, 2018 01:59
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Booyah- posted:Does anyone have a recipe for painting wood that theyre happy with? I hate doing things like wood weapon handles or gun stocks. I tend to use multiple different shades of browns when painting wood, but the general idea is to go for high contrasts to bring out the grain wherever possible. If the surface already has a grain sculpted into it, use a wash over your midtone, heavier towards shaded areas. Then drybrush a lighter color to emphasize the grain on the high points. The colors you choose will vary depending on the type of wood you're painting, the age/condition of the wood, etc. If you're painting a surface that lacks a grain, such as a staff or rifle stock, you can use a thin brush to draw in roughly parallel grain lines in a contrasting color. (You don't want exactly parallel lines, of course, because wood grain has knots and bulges in it.)
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Mar 4, 2018 07:09
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So I bought an airbrush to do base coats, and sprayed my dudes down with acrylic white paint, and this paint won't stick to the models at all. I primed them and stuff, but some light handling has made these guys look pretty beat up. Is this a problem with acrylics, with whites, or just with this specific brand of paint? Also, can I salvage this easily somehow, or should I just give them a bath and start over?
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Mar 4, 2018 16:18
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What kind of primer did you use? Did you mix lacquers/oils/acrylics? Was the model resin? If so, did you wash it well before painting?
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Mar 4, 2018 16:32
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The Sex Cannon posted:^^Sup Macro Mat warm background buddy drat Dan, them's some nice Raven Guard.
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Mar 4, 2018 16:33
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