|
BMan posted:Welp so much for that idea.  http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/industrial/blue-threadlockers-medium-strength-13231.htm Edit : Not sure why Henkel calls out that high of an operating temp, even the PDF calls removal temp of 250C. Yooper fucked around with this message at 13:11 on Feb 25, 2018 |
#
?
Feb 25, 2018 13:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 11, 2024 06:24 |
|
|
Yooper posted:
Yah, both of the tech specs for the two products there are still not anywhere close to the 600f number. I think it's just a fat finger.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2018 15:22
|
|
|
Just throwing this out: Loctite “purple” 222 is probably better suited to the small fasteners on a 3d printer.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2018 18:51
|
|
|
Finished setting up Octoprint but I'm getting a communication error when I try to do anything (I can upload files but when I go to load/print it stops with a heating error). Any ideas? I'm kinda stumped. I was thinking about lowering the baud rate but I dunno what that might really end up doing...
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2018 20:49
|
|
|
Just set it to auto, and watch the terminal to see what it actually connects at. My Monoprice Maker Ultimate is 250000 baud. Once you know, you can just set it and click remember settings.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2018 23:15
|
|
|
Turns out I'm partially an idiot. The TEVO can boot from the juice supplied by the USB connection but as you can imagine, it fails to heat up and shits itself. I forgot I unplugged it back when I was moving some cables around. I did get it to print a test cube (once it had a/c power) though, so it's working fairly well.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2018 00:05
|
|
|
So I was printing a battery cage on my Mini V2 when this happened: At some point it started making a loud clicking noise but then continued as normal. Its never done that on a tall print before.  Its also going way slower than Cura is estimating. This print was an estimated 2 hours, ended up taking about 3:15. Is that normal or have I hosed up a setting somewhere?
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2018 02:02
|
|
|
Sounds like the stepper missed some steps. In the slicer see which axis missed the steps, x or y, and check if there's anything impeding motion.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2018 02:31
|
|
|
Great Beer posted:So I was printing a battery cage on my Mini V2 when this happened: Most likely the overhangs on that grille curled up and the nozzle crashed into one. That model looks like close to a worst case scenario for causing that.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2018 02:52
|
|
|
BMan posted:Most likely the overhangs on that grille curled up and the nozzle crashed into one. That model looks like close to a worst case scenario for causing that. This seems likely esp since the bottom looks very warped
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2018 04:02
|
|
|
I too have a mini v2 and I've had that exact problem with overhangs unless I spend hours dialing exactly the right temp and fan speed for each filament it's a huge pain in the rear end, and there are so many little things that irritate me about this printer that I'm gonna have to spend a day or two modding it before I really want to print with it again.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2018 04:25
|
|
|
Also, get used to slicer estimated times to be way off. I usually double what Cura says and that's close to reality.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2018 06:29
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Also, get used to slicer estimated times to be way off. I usually double what Cura says and that's close to reality. I find them to about 140% of the stated time. It would be nice to be able to add a modifier to the out put when you learn your machine's times
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2018 06:33
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Also, get used to slicer estimated times to be way off. I usually double what Cura says and that's close to reality.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2018 06:35
|
|
|
Prusa implemented an accurate time estimator into their Slic3r recently. The github post mentions that Cura has that feature, so there must be settings for that somewhere...
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2018 07:21
|
|
|
BMan posted:Most likely the overhangs on that grille curled up and the nozzle crashed into one. That model looks like close to a worst case scenario for causing that. mewse posted:This seems likely esp since the bottom looks very warped That makes sense. There's really no need for it to be as complicated as it is, I just thought it looked cool. I'll redo the model and try for fewer overhangs. The bottom warping I think I know the cause of and it should be an easy fix. Thanks guys!
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2018 08:49
|
|
|
gently caress using Loctite on your thermistor screw. Just put the thermistor in the hole and cover the hole with high-temp sensor-friendly RTV sealant and let it cure overnight before finishing the assembly. Maybe coat the rest of the heater block with a thin layer of the same sealant after final assembly (except for right around the nozzle) for really good heater performance.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2018 20:56
|
|
|
BMan posted:Prusa implemented an accurate time estimator into their Slic3r recently. The github post mentions that Cura has that feature, so there must be settings for that somewhere... Yup, Cura has it under the Speed settings:  If anyone's using Cura (the new 2.x or 3.x versions, not the old 15.x) and hasn't enabled the visibility of all of the settings, there's a TON of stuff that's hidden by default. Just go to Settings -> Configure setting visibility... and toggle the "Show all" check box so everything is selected. You don't necessarily have to learn what every single one does right away, but it's a good idea to know what your slicer is actually capable of. Someone in here called it "baby's first slicer" not too long ago, and they are very wrong.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2018 00:49
|
|
|
Welp just bought what I needed to convert my RostockMax V2 from a Rambo controller to the Duet Wifi. Also got an Adafruit Trinket so I can build an adapter to connect the HE280's accelerometer probe to the Duet's Z-probe input. (https://github.com/mhackney/YAAA)
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2018 15:24
|
|
|
stevewm posted:Welp just bought what I needed to convert my RostockMax V2 from a Rambo controller to the Duet Wifi. Cool!. Let us know how it goes! (Well, at least I'm interested!)
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2018 00:23
|
|
|
I 3D print at my local library and love it. My husband is interested, but far too lazy to go to the library, so he said if we could find a 3D printer for a couple hundred we could consider getting one in the house. I looked in the OP and back a few pages and didn't see any buying advice for first timers. Mostly what I would like is: -in the $300 to $500 range -not complete and utter bullshit to maintain -maybe not huge -doesn't light on fire Is this a total pipe dream, or does this exist?
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2018 02:54
|
|
|
The Monoprice Select Mini v2 is a good choice for people starting out and isn’t too expensive. The biggest drawbacks are lack of auto leveling, the 120mmx120mm print size, and speed.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2018 03:29
|
|
|
Bean posted:I 3D print at my local library and love it. My husband is interested, but far too lazy to go to the library, so he said if we could find a 3D printer for a couple hundred we could consider getting one in the house. I looked in the OP and back a few pages and didn't see any buying advice for first timers. Convince him that it's worth getting a Prusa i3 mk3 https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/180-original-prusa-i3-mk3-kit.html Yeah it's a little more than your high end but it is the most reliable and easiest to set up printer on the market today, with an excellent community and technical support, and it prints really well. It's what I recommend to all my students when they want something of their own. It doesn't have any caveats or require any immediate upgrades to not catch fire like many of the cheaper discount models. I've had students build the machine in two afternoons and press "go" and their first file comes out perfect. Just all around a great machine.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2018 03:43
|
|
|
I just committed and bought an i3 mk3. It's on backorder, but their shipping table says I should get it the first week of April. Now that I have a month to obsess about my new toy, do you guys have any recommended communities, forums, etc. to start lurking in? I'm keen to learn everything I can, so that I can go in as prepared as possible once it arrives. I think the first thing I want to learn about are the merits and detriments to different types of materials.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2018 03:58
|
|
|
NeurosisHead posted:I just committed and bought an i3 mk3. It's on backorder, but their shipping table says I should get it the first week of April. Just print in PLA until you make something that doesn’t work with it and then look into PETG.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2018 04:07
|
|
|
Or, if you can only stretch the budget a little the MK2 is still an excellent printer well worth the money. Otherwise the Monoprice, as stated above.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2018 09:29
|
|
|
Bean posted:I 3D print at my local library and love it. My husband is interested, but far too lazy to go to the library, so he said if we could find a 3D printer for a couple hundred we could consider getting one in the house. I looked in the OP and back a few pages and didn't see any buying advice for first timers. I started with an Anet A8 with all the upgrades the internet told me to get (mosfets, bigger power supply, etc) and it came out to about $200. It's a Prusa i3 mk2 clone but it was $144 off Gearbest. I've used it for several months and had lots of good prints off the 220mm x 220mm bed. Fast forward to now, I've outgrown the bed size and pulled the trigger on a Tevo Tornado. It was $325 dollars off Banggood. It has a much larger bed, made of aluminum extrusion and actually prints real well right out of the box. It's mostly assembled and has lots of bells and whistles without dumping $$$ into it on upgrade parts. I only print things during the day when I'm next to the printer so I think I've checked 3 of your 4 boxes. No chinese 3D printer fires yet! 
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2018 20:44
|
|
|
Bean posted:I 3D print at my local library and love it. You can only have one or the other; never both -in the $300 to $500 range -not complete and utter bullshit to maintain To continue having fun like the library printer (which is probably very expensive and built for high use) , bump it up to 900 and get a prusa. I thought prusa was over priced but the ability to jot have to worry about levelling or power cutting or collisions happening ruining a print I can admit I am having way more fun.
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2018 21:41
|
|
|
EVIL Gibson posted:You can only have one or the other; never both Isn't it only 750? I have a MP select mini v2 right now and it's great, however if I feel I need something bigger I think the MK3 is the next step for me. https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/180-original-prusa-i3-mk3-kit.html
|
|
#
?
Mar 1, 2018 21:55
|
|
|
duffmensch posted:The Monoprice Select Mini v2 is a good choice for people starting out and isn’t too expensive. The biggest drawbacks are lack of auto leveling, the 120mmx120mm print size, and speed. Bean, if you get the Mini consider also getting a piece of glass to put on the bed after you've gotten the hang of the basics. It's an easy mod and will be much, much, much flatter than the metal bed. You do have to print at least one part before you can put on the glass though, which is a z axis spacer so it doesn't ram the hotend into the glass when homing. Also get a set of feeler gauges from an auto parts store, it makes leveling much easier.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2018 00:52
|
|
|
Leveling that little bed is way more trouble than you might expect. It takes an Allen wrench, for one thing, and it's such a compact little printer that there's not a ton of clearance to turn that wrench. You can't even really get to the front left screw if the nozzle is homed. Plus, I feel like there's less space for "this is slightly hosed up but I can still print good enough on the left half." Starting with the MPSM made me really apprehensive about buying another printer without automatic bed leveling, but it turns out that thumbscrews are totally fine! Also my anycubic never works itself off level the way my Select Mini did, like, twice a week.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2018 01:26
|
|
|
And so it begins...
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2018 01:57
|
|
|
Parts Kit posted:Having one I now wish I bought something bigger/faster. I mean it's a great starter printer and all but it's surprising how fast you run out of space on it. I put the Brutus and Maximus upgrades on both my minis and haven’t had any real complaints about size in either case. Speed and leveling, yes, but it’s pretty rare that I have something that wouldn’t fit on either one. Also, definitely buy a feeler gauge to save your sanity when leveling the bed.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2018 03:03
|
|
|
Well it was beginning, but someone had alternate plans.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2018 03:22
|
|
|
So the drivers on my cr-10 board have died. I'm thinking I'll need to buy a new main board, and figure I might aswell go 32 bit and enjoy the benefits. Ive seen talk of smoothie board and duet wifi and I'm Just wondering what are the cliff notes differences of the two? My main wants of a board is
Any thoughts are appreciated
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2018 04:44
|
|
|
Jestery posted:So the drivers on my cr-10 board have died. Duet is capable of all of that, with a really nice WebUI to boot that is responsive (mobile compatible) I haven't got a chance to use mine yet, but videos and other things I have read & seen convinced me. In regards to running without wifi... it can do that, but you need an alternative means to connect and control it then, which for the Duet would be the PanelDue touchscreen. You can also control the Duet via USB; it has selectable USB emulations, (Marlin, Repitier). GCode uploads happen via the Web UI.. It copies to the SD card fairly fast given that it is not talking to the SD card over a serial port. Though you can also remove the card and copy the files manually (the Duet has to be powered off to remove the SD card) Smoothie also has a webui, but its not quite as good as Duet. I from what I can see Duet seems to have a more active community.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2018 04:56
|
|
|
stevewm posted:Duet is capable of all of that, with a really nice WebUI to boot that is responsive (mobile compatible) I haven't got a chance to use mine yet, but videos and other things I have read & seen convinced me. In regards to running without wifi... it can do that, but you need an alternative means to connect and control it then, which for the Duet would be the PanelDue touchscreen. You can also control the Duet via USB; it has selectable USB emulations, (Marlin, Repitier). GCode uploads happen via the Web UI.. It copies to the SD card fairly fast given that it is not talking to the SD card over a serial port. Though you can also remove the card and copy the files manually (the Duet has to be powered off to remove the SD card) That sound pretty good, I'll check it out With regards to the wifi, I should have been more specific. My wifi situation isn't great and I need to restart my router every 2-3 days so I don't want that interrupting a print. Still I'll eye up the duet board all things being equal
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2018 06:09
|
|
|
Jestery posted:That sound pretty good, I'll check it out The Wifi is only used for accessing the web interface. The GCode is pulled from the local SD card once you start a print. I see no reason why the wifi dropping would interrupt a print.
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2018 06:19
|
|
|
stevewm posted:The Wifi is only used for accessing the web interface. The GCode is pulled from the local SD card once you start a print. I see no reason why the wifi dropping would interrupt a print. That is fantastic to hear, thank you very much for your help Edit: my only touchstone for web interfaces is Octo print and people streaming the gcode directly from their pc
|
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2018 06:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 11, 2024 06:24 |
|
|
Jestery posted:That is fantastic to hear, thank you very much for your help Think of Duet (and Smoothieboard) as a OctoPrint with the printer controller built in. Instead of being separate components. Their webpage has a pretty good overview of the interface: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/c/DuetWebControl stevewm fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Mar 2, 2018 |
|
#
?
Mar 2, 2018 06:33
|
|