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KakerMix posted:This is awesome goddamn. I've already ordered the sensor (Prime That was just dumb luck finding that. Googling the part number turned up a Denso part on O'Reilly's website for an 89 Toyota truck (since Toyota uses the same first half of the part number across all models). Clicked it, "uh.. poo poo, that looks right.. there's no way that's the right one... is it? lemme find it on Amazon, they usually have a decent pic". Followed by some "enhance... enhance... enhance.. JUST PRINT THE drat THING" when trying to find a higher resolution photo.  (the pic I eventually edited in was found on ebay)It cross references to several late 80s/early 90s models, including one with some kind of 6 cylinder. Hopefully the pinout is right! randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Mar 1, 2018 |
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Feb 28, 2018 23:40
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) but will do as you instruct in regards to the checking the pins and probing it. I'll post back when I get it on Friday.
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Google-fu is a life skill and you’ve got it, my dude. Nice work.
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Feb 28, 2018 23:43
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I was thinking the same, like wow Yugi Oh is a freakin google wizard. Well done.
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Mar 1, 2018 04:55
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It was seriously just dumb luck. One of the links that came up when I googled the part number in the diagram was for the Toyota truck (link went to O'Reilly's); I clicked it out of idle curiosity, and "no way, is that the right plug?" happened. I'm decent at finding poo poo on Google, but not THAT good most of the time.
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Mar 1, 2018 06:22
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The right-side exhaust manifold on my Dodge Durango has warped/expanded header bolts that caused an exhaust leak. While bad, it does make a really gnarly machine gun sort of noise when you get on it! I have to get this fixed. I found a reputable Muffler guy near me that has great ratings across Yelp/Google Reviews. I've used him before on other vehicles, and he does good work. He quoted me $400 for this job. I know there is a lot of cutting/welding to get those expanded header bolts out of there, and install the new manifold. But is $400 pretty steep for this work? I feel like it might be. After all - I bought, and I'm bringing, the new exhaust manifold, and the entire header bolt package with me to be installed. Does $400 for an (albeit tedious) job like an exhaust manifold/header bolt replacement job, seem excessive? I don't want to start the work of shopping around for the cheapest install out there, if it turns out A.I. can confirm that this is a pretty average price already...
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Mar 2, 2018 15:36
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Depending on what actually happened, $400 could be very reasonable or highway robbery. I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around what could have warped/expanded header bolts. Did you run over something that snagged on the exhaust and it pulled on the header?
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Mar 2, 2018 16:39
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Went and spoke with him this morning. I guess all I needed to do was listen to him tell me stories and explain fiscal responsibility. Then he said he would do the job for $300 for me. So that is a great deal, and I'm taking it in asap. Geoj posted:I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around what could have warped/expanded header bolts. Did you run over something that snagged on the exhaust and it pulled on the header? Dennis McClaren fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Mar 2, 2018 |
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Mar 2, 2018 18:05
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Geoj posted:Depending on what actually happened, $400 could be very reasonable or highway robbery. More than likely op is in the rust belt. The heat cycling and rust causes manifold bolts (and manifolds) to crack and deteriorate. There will be almost nothing left of the bolt to remove, what is left will be seized so its a real pain in the.
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Mar 2, 2018 20:49
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4.7s are known for breaking the bolts from the manifold to the head. Even my no-rust WJ had to have this done by the PO.
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Mar 2, 2018 21:26
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Pulling something like 6-8 seized bolts out of a head sounds pretty reasonable for $400. Glad you got it dropped down to $300 though! I bet you the calculation is something like 15 minutes a bolt with the rest of the time being allotted to tear down/reinstallation. Add in taxes and a labour rate that's probably close to $60 an hour and you're getting close to $400.
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Mar 3, 2018 02:24
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Uh... I think I may have found it. Maybe. Looks like it may have been shared with the US 1989 Toyota pickup? Has the right plug on it anyway - you have to zoom way the gently caress in on the plug to really see it, but you can tell that the notch in the middle lines up, can also tell that it has a groove on each side that would line up with that plug. Right so I was doing more research and I found a picture of the OEM part:   It has a single goddamned wire so now I go back and look under the hood of the Crown again. The 4 prong plug that I'm seeing was originally taped up and out of the way, I had to unwrap an extra bit of electrical tape that was holding it to a larger loom of wire. Nowhere does anything actually say anything about this plug being used for the before-cat oxygen sensor, it just looks superficially like the OEM 1JZ-GTE 3 prong sensor that the Supra guys are always looking for. I just assumed it was what I was looking for. Now that I see the OEM part that is specifically for my Crown has a single wire I now am wondering if the ??? wire I circled in this picture  is the actual other end of this single-wire oxygen sensor with it's connector ripped off leaving the little nub of bare wire. This is what was suggested to me in the 'What Did You Do To Your Ride Today?' thread: Raluek posted:Could have snagged it on something with the added bonus that the wires line up absolutely perfectly if I bring them together, just sans a connecting part. The Denso part from Amazon did arrive today and does fit into the socket perfectly but when I started poking and prodding the connection on the car none of it made any sense, but that could easily be me being a very dumb boy when it comes to electrical anythings. When I look up the Denso part number I get zero mention anywhere of it ever being used in a Crown or Toyota sedan or anything at all. Essentially, I think that the ??? wire in the picture above is the actual sensor connector, the sensor that is in there is an aftermarket OEM-equivalent single-wire sensor that is supposed to connect to a plug that isn't there and is, instead, a bare wire that needs to be fixed right up.
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Mar 3, 2018 02:29
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So another question for my '85 Plymouth Turismo, I have it running and driving just fine now but the cooling fan never shuts off when the car is turned off, it is supposed to run for 10 minutes after the car is shut off as an anti-vapor lock measure but just runs forever.. I already replaced the cooling fan relay since the old one didn't work at all and confirmed the new one is good. It doesn't turn on until it is triggered normally, is there a timer or something I should check or would it be something else?
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Mar 3, 2018 16:56
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So my 1988 F150 still has a weird idle. Once it warms up and take it out of gear, the idle will drop from from 1100 RPM down to 500-ish and act like it's about to die. Sometimes it will. So I've been doing research on it. The idle throttle isn't adjustable or at least it's not supposed to be, while the idle air isn't adjustable at all. The IACV is supposed to control this entirely. Apparently I'm not the only one with this problem, as Ford put out a TSB # 91-25-07 about this. This problem affected several vehicles and was caused by sludge in the throttle body and the IACV. So I figured if I gave everything a good clean, that should make it work again, right? I took my throttle body and newish IACV completely apart and cleaned them. There was indeed sludge on the backs of both throttle blades, but everything else looked great. I put it all back together and the idle still surges.  I remember everyone telling me to adjust my idle if possible. Well, that TSB included a part number for an idle air adjust spacer to combat this sludge problem by allowing air around the IACV. Would this help my problem? I think I've tried everything else I can think of. From what I've found online, it's helped a lot of 302 owners to stabilize their idles. I managed to find that entire TSB by the way. It includes all the instructions for installing it, but I fear I may have already hosed up as it says "do not clean throttle bodies identified to accept idle air adjust spacer". kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Mar 3, 2018 |
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Mar 3, 2018 20:08
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kid sinister posted:So my 1988 F150 still has a weird idle. Knowing gently caress all about this particular engine, if IACV and throttle works as they are supposed to my spontaneous generic guess is a vacuum leak.
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Mar 3, 2018 21:12
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Autoexec.bat posted:So another question for my '85 Plymouth Turismo, I have it running and driving just fine now but the cooling fan never shuts off when the car is turned off, it is supposed to run for 10 minutes after the car is shut off as an anti-vapor lock measure but just runs forever.. I already replaced the cooling fan relay since the old one didn't work at all and confirmed the new one is good. It doesn't turn on until it is triggered normally, is there a timer or something I should check or would it be something else? Doesn't it have a temp sensor to turn on the fan?
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Mar 3, 2018 21:34
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My brother in law is thinking over buying a 2011 ford escape with 90k miles. Is there anythong to look out for on these?
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Mar 3, 2018 23:03
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ionn posted:Knowing gently caress all about this particular engine, if IACV and throttle works as they are supposed to my spontaneous generic guess is a vacuum leak. Fixed all the ones I've found. The only remaining original hard vinyl vacuum lines are for the MAP, these weird sensors down by the ignition coil that I don't know what are for and a pair going into the heater box.
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Mar 4, 2018 03:25
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spog posted:Doesn't it have a temp sensor to turn on the fan? Right, the fan turns on fine but if it is sensing hot it will run the fan for 10 minutes after the car shuts off to prevent vapor from forming in the carb and making it hard to start after a short period. There is a sticker on the cowl mentioning this so it is otherwise working normally as far as I can tell.
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Mar 4, 2018 04:16
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Autoexec.bat posted:Right, the fan turns on fine but if it is sensing hot it will run the fan for 10 minutes after the car shuts off to prevent vapor from forming in the carb and making it hard to start after a short period. There is a sticker on the cowl mentioning this so it is otherwise working normally as far as I can tell. Sounds like you need to figure out how the timer operates and replace it.
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Mar 4, 2018 04:21
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tactlessbastard posted:My brother in law is thinking over buying a 2011 ford escape with 90k miles. Is there anythong to look out for on these? Transmission issues. Make sure it shifts smooth without hesitation/slow shifts.
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Mar 4, 2018 07:31
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`Nemesis posted:Transmission issues. Make sure it shifts smooth without hesitation/slow shifts. Thanks, I'll pass that on.
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Mar 4, 2018 15:25
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Autoexec.bat posted:Right, the fan turns on fine but if it is sensing hot it will run the fan for 10 minutes after the car shuts off to prevent vapor from forming in the carb and making it hard to start after a short period. There is a sticker on the cowl mentioning this so it is otherwise working normally as far as I can tell. Does it actually run for 10mins after engine shut off? Or does it run until the temperature falls to a cooler temperature, which usually takes about 10 mins? I'd expect it to be the latter. In which case, you might have a knackered temp sensor. You could try shorting out the connector on a cool engine and the fan should start. If it stops when you remove the short, then the system is entirely temp based and you need to replace the temp sensor
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Mar 4, 2018 17:51
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https://imgur.com/NC65zS1 What kind of car is this?
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Mar 5, 2018 02:04
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Suzuki x-90
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Mar 5, 2018 02:17
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And one is for sale in Orlando if you really want one
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Mar 5, 2018 04:00
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I think its beautiful; but that would be the total definition of a "toy" purchase, which is not happening right now. I will have sweet dreams of one day driving a 90's purple x-90.
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Mar 5, 2018 04:06
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Followup for closure:Leperflesh posted:My truck is a 1992 chevy s-10 with a 4.3l v6 and an automatic transmission. It has 230k miles or so. It was the alternator. 20+ year old remanufactured AC/Delco had decided to no longer output any volts. Replaced it today and all is well.
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Mar 5, 2018 04:09
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spog posted:Does it actually run for 10mins after engine shut off? Deteriorata posted:Sounds like you need to figure out how the timer operates and replace it. The sticker and the manual both say 10 minutes, will check when I can. Otherwise I'll take a look at the computer to see if anything in there is funky. This car has a lot of electrical gremlins and the wiring is a giant mess so if it is a timer it being broken isn't unrealistic. I will check my repair manuals to see which way it works thanks. Also does anyone know what the normal operation of the hazards is in an 80's Chrysler? Currently to activate them you have to pull the hazard switch then set the turn signal either left or right to actually make them start flashing. I found this out while driving thinking they were broken. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Mar 5, 2018 |
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Mar 5, 2018 04:35
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I'm moving from Atlanta to DC at the end of the month, and I don't have much furniture to move. The previous owner of my 2008 Prius installed a Class 1 Curt hitch on it that he used with a bike rack, so I've been thinking of renting a 4'x8' U-Haul trailer for $80. I have the trailer ball mount, but I'd need to get a ball and a wiring kit for the trailer brake lights. The alternative would be driving up, taking a $99 Spirit flight down then renting a moving truck for $350. Are there any issues with this plan other than the obvious joke of towing with a Prius?
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Mar 5, 2018 11:24
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Josh Lyman posted:Are there any issues with this plan other than the obvious joke of towing with a Prius?
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Mar 5, 2018 13:57
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Does that generation of Prius have a tow rating anywhere else in the world? If so, go with that (assuming Uhaul will rent you a trailer). Tow ratings in the US have very little regulation. With the public perception of cars, and the propensity of Americans to overload poo poo way beyond reason, a lot of cars that have tow ratings elsewhere (and are mechanically identical) magically lose those ratings here.
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Mar 5, 2018 15:18
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IOwnCalculus posted:Does that generation of Prius have a tow rating anywhere else in the world? If so, go with that (assuming Uhaul will rent you a trailer). Here's the chart: http://www.uktow.com/towing%20capacity.asp?make=Toyota&model1=Prius 1500lbs
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Mar 5, 2018 16:38
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KakerMix posted:It has a single goddamned wire so now I go back and look under the hood of the Crown again. The 4 prong plug that I'm seeing was originally taped up and out of the way, I had to unwrap an extra bit of electrical tape that was holding it to a larger loom of wire. Nowhere does anything actually say anything about this plug being used for the before-cat oxygen sensor, it just looks superficially like the OEM 1JZ-GTE 3 prong sensor that the Supra guys are always looking for. I just assumed it was what I was looking for. It's possible they went to the 3-4 wire sensor on the next year model (or halfway through that model year), and just had the plug on the harness already? Try probing each wire in the (factory) connector with the positive tip of your multimeter, with the negative touching chassis ground (engine block will be fine), with the key on. If you do get +12V somewhere, you probably have that plug running to the ECU. Alternatively, just crimp those two wires together for now (this isn't a long term solution, but it'll work for now). There's a specific type of crimp you're supposed to use for universal one wire sensors though.
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Mar 5, 2018 19:10
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KakerMix posted:Right so I was doing more research and I found a picture of the OEM part: Nah, OEM part for your car is 89465-29445 which looks like a single wire sensor. See here: https://o2ya.jp/toyota.php -> Crown 1987/09 - 1991/10 -> JZS131-AEPQF which lists quote:1990/08 - 1991/10 1JZGE SED ROY ATM 4FC TWC NOB It looks like your car only needs the upstream O2 sensor, and it's only the upstream. The 1JZ-GTE is a turbocharged engine so that's probably why it needed a heated sensor. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Mar 5, 2018 |
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Mar 5, 2018 19:42
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2009 Jaguar XF Supercharged I think I need to buy 4 new wheels. I have one wheel that's cracked and has a slow leak. I don't know if it's repairable, but my understanding is that whether to even repair rims at all is a contentious issue. All of my rims have been bent a bunch from potholes and just being with low profile tires, and have been bent back into round probably 2-3 times. They told me that they can't bend them anymore after this, and the ride quality has gone back to suffering a bit along with the crack, which is why I'm thinking of just replacing them. Anyway, my factory wheels are these https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-Jaguar-20-Volans-Rear-Wheel-C2Z2653-Jaguar-XF-/271910469039 Which are about $800-900 new everywhere I like these wheels, and if I thought I could get them again and know they were going to be fine, I would just do that, which is why my first question is whether reconditioned wheels are worth doing, and if there's a way to tell whether I'm buying a wheel that just had some curb rash repaired vs like a wheel that's had some crack repaired and won't be reliable. Also if it's already been bent back a couple times I guess I might just be buying some with the same problem I already have? Alternately I'm ok with buying aftermarket wheels, and I kinda like these: https://www.carid.com/lexani-wheels...TBoC3AgQAvD_BwE Is there any way to tell whether my Jaguar wheel cap will fit on them? Also, how will the quality and reliability be as far as like hitting road hazards and stuff compared to my old factory wheels? Basically I just want to get the best value for my money here and I'd like to keep it below $450 or so a wheel if possible.
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Mar 6, 2018 02:22
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KakerMix posted:I've got a 1990 Toyota Crown ~Royal Saloon~ wagon I've imported from Japan to drive around like an old grandpa here in the USA. It's equipped with a 1JZ-GE. I had a '96 Mark II with that engine (or very similar, forget which JZ motor it had) in Japan, it got pretty unimpressive mileage. I bought it for about a grand and had surpassed that again in petrol after ten or so all-too-frequent fillups. Fun as hell merging onto the expressway though, kei cars GTFO'd my way when they saw that thing coming at speed 
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Mar 7, 2018 09:38
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Because we love sleepless nights and tackling poo poo we are clueless about, a pal and I are starting a local transport and tour company. Naturally, we bought a bus. It's a 1998 E450 with the 7.3l diesel and I'm enamoured with it. We're gearing up to hire someone with actual knowledge to help tackle the onboard electronics and see what we can do about running a phone-charging station, tvs and WiFi and whatnot for guests. I guess what I'm looking for is, how big of an inverter am I going to be able to run before worrying about impacting the battery? There is an "auxiliary idle control module" installed on the center console. To best of my limited understanding, it's there so when the truck is parked and running you can set the idle rpm higher/lower to account for extra power draw. Sound as if this was how the previous owner managed the same hurdle?
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Mar 7, 2018 14:32
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RedChesterfield posted:Because we love sleepless nights and tackling poo poo we are clueless about, a pal and I are starting a local transport and tour company. Add up the total power draw you're anticipating and see if your alternator can handle it. You may need to go to an oversized unit or a completely separate generator, depending on how much stuff you want to be running.
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Mar 7, 2018 15:31
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I am not sure if the vans are the same as trucks, but dual alternators are a common thing on diesels. Some from the factory, some with aftermarket kits. I would look into that before you go all out. An extra 200 amp alt would more than cover a bunch of USB ports.
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Mar 7, 2018 15:43
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I could really use a truck or SUV of some sort and a 2000 Excursion V10 4x4 just popped up for sale near me fairly cheap. I've liked these trucks since they came out, my employer pays for my fuel, and I find the idea of having the largest modern vehicle Ford's made as a counterpart to my Fiesta amusing so I kinda want to buy it. Can anyone give me any pointers on what I should look out for when checking it out and test driving? Anything that should be a particular red flag? I feel like that generation of the Super Duty platform is pretty solid in general, but I don't know much about the Excursion-specific bits, and my familiarity with the modular motors is entirely with the 2 valve V8s. Are these V10s part of the list that like to launch their spark plugs, and if so is that something I should really be concerned about or is it easy to deal with? It'll basically just be used every now and then when I need it, my Fiesta will still be my daily driver, so it's not the biggest deal in the world to me if I might need to wrench or put up with some minor annoyances from broken parts. wolrah fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Mar 7, 2018 |
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Mar 7, 2018 17:07
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