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wolrah posted:Are these V10s part of the list that like to launch their spark plugs, and if so is that something I should really be concerned about or is it easy to deal with? Casual google search indicates that 1999-2005 this was a problem on the V-10s, which are basically the 5.4 V8 mod motor with an extra two cylinders: quote:One of the main faults with the early V10 engines (1999 – 2005) was that the spark plugs could blow out of the cylinder head. Ford use a cast iron engine block with an overhead cam aluminium cylinder head design, that uses centrally mounted spark plugs and waste spark ignition.
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Mar 7, 2018 17:23
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Geoj posted:Casual google search indicates that 1999-2005 this was a problem on the V-10s, which are basically the 5.4 V8 mod motor with an extra two cylinders: Interesting, my family had a few 5.4 powered trucks when I was growing up and they were all great. I was under the impression this was more of a three-valve issue since I didn't start hearing about it until they were common, but I guess not. My own personal modulars were all 4.6s.
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Mar 7, 2018 17:40
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FWIW, stepdad's F-150 with the 5.4 hasn't yet ejected any spark plugs (~140k), and the plugs came out pretty easy when he changed them at ~110k. It does, however, have a massive appetite for ignition coils. I'm sure it's due in no small part to him buying a set of 8 of China's finest no-name coils for $40 or $50 a couple of years back. It's getting Motorcraft coils every time another one dies now (2 so far this year). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Mar 7, 2018 |
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Mar 7, 2018 17:57
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Do those spark plugs have the half thread design? Yeah, those were a mistake. (not us)
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Mar 7, 2018 18:26
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5.4 can't get em out. 4.6 can't keep em in. Both problems are somewhat related despite the differences in plug design. The 5.4 triton plugs have a long extension below the threads that fits in a tube in the head. carbon migrates up into this gap and makes them get stuck. They'll break just below the threads leaving the lower part inside the engine. There are methods online involving cracking the plugs loose 1/4 turn, dousing them in carb cleaner and letting it sit overnight that apparently work well for some. The 4.6s can blow out plugs under certain conditions. This often happened with NGK plugs - the threads exdended slightly into the combuston chamber, providing a path for gasses/carbon to escape through the threads, eventually weakening and sandblasting the somewhat exposed threads, and then they'd start to loosen and blow out. Having the correct OEM motorcraft plugs or even some autolites in this motor, and torquing them correctly avoids all this mayhem. NGKs are great plugs... in imports! Some mustang people re-check the plug torque every 5k.
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Mar 7, 2018 19:50
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MY RED TRUCK MAKES A SQUEAK WHAT COULD IT BE https://streamable.com/knepo It's a 2002 Dakota 3.9L, 2WD, 130k miles. I'm really bad at nailing down little squeaks and rattles from underneath the vehicle, was hoping someone more experienced would have a good idea of what the problem might be. And yes I aired that tire up.
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Mar 7, 2018 20:50
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If you have a jack and jackstands you could start by jacking the rear of the truck up and turning the wheels by hand and see if you can hear a similar squeak, then track it from there. Unfortunately its even harder to nail down a squeak like that from a video. With a truck old enough to drive itself it would probably be easier to list all the components that couldn't make that noise.
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Mar 7, 2018 21:04
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0toShifty posted:NGKs are great plugs... in imports! Some mustang people re-check the plug torque every 5k. Fairly sure they're the OEM for a lot of GM plugs and O2 sensors too.  (also, we have an actual NGK person in here...)e: vvvv there he is! randomidiot fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Mar 7, 2018 |
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Mar 7, 2018 21:09
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NGK doesn't make any of those hosed up half thread spark plugs. Those were a terrible, terrible idea. Pretty sure all those engines had the same head/spark plug design, so they were all prone to the same problem. I'm not familiar with that particular issue, but http://www.fordproblems.com/trends/spark-plug-ejection/ http://www.fordproblems.com/trends/spark-plug-stuck/ both reference the same engines. I don't know if the head/spark plug design creates additional pressures above what a normal spark plug would experience, but it is possible. But clearly there aren't enough threads to hold the spark plugs in place. The more threads you have, the less stress on each thread. Anyway, I don't want to speculate too much but, again, everything about that spark plug design is just awful. Autolite made those and I have no idea what the gently caress they or Ford were thinking. Anyway, NGK is a major OEM supplier to all cars, domestic and foreign. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Mar 8, 2018 |
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Mar 7, 2018 21:52
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kid sinister posted:So my 1988 F150 still has a weird idle. Once it warms up and take it out of gear, the idle will drop from from 1100 RPM down to 500-ish and act like it's about to die. Sometimes it will. So I've been doing research on it. The idle throttle isn't adjustable or at least it's not supposed to be, while the idle air isn't adjustable at all. The IACV is supposed to control this entirely. Apparently I'm not the only one with this problem, as Ford put out a TSB # 91-25-07 about this. This problem affected several vehicles and was caused by sludge in the throttle body and the IACV. So I figured if I gave everything a good clean, that should make it work again, right? I took my throttle body and newish IACV completely apart and cleaned them. There was indeed sludge on the backs of both throttle blades, but everything else looked great. I put it all back together and the idle still surges. When I had a similar idle issue on my 302 '89 f150 it was the MAP sensor being out of range, I tested it and it was reading like 15-20% under normal ranges.
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Mar 7, 2018 22:17
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RedChesterfield posted:Because we love sleepless nights and tackling poo poo we are clueless about, a pal and I are starting a local transport and tour company. I think you're going to be looking at another battery and alternator if you want to ensure that everyone can charge their devices at once. Wire gauge is going to be important too. But, conservatively, let's say you've got 8 devices charging at once, assuming they're all iphones they may be drawing 1000mA (1A)x8 or 2100mA(2.1A)x8 if the client has a fast charger (or iPad), or obviously a combination somewhere in between. I would do some reading and see if the battery can't be upsized to account for an additional 8A+ continuous draw, and I guess you'd also have to factor in the losses from the inverter. I don't know how RVs do it, but I'm going to guess your setup is going to be very close to that. Also, I don't really see the need for an inverter honestly. It would be more efficient just to run everything on DC and offer USB plugs for the phones. Most chargers now have the USB portion unplug from the actual power brick.
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Mar 8, 2018 01:08
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My 2012 Chevrolet Impala LFX V-6 has a P015B code, O2 Sensor Delayed Response - Lean to Rich (Bank 1 Sensor 1). Is there even a remote chance this is the o2 sensor conveniently located on the front side of the engine? The only thing I have found from google is o2sensors.com.au says a bank 1 sensor 1 in a FWD V6 is going to be on the back of the engine. Is the rear o2 sensor typically accessible from above?
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Mar 8, 2018 04:47
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http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/charliewebhost/media/bWVkaWFJZDo4NDc3MjYxNQ==/?ref= http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/charliewebhost/media/bWVkaWFJZDo4NDc3MjUyOQ==/?ref= Pretty sure that's bank 1.  Welp. That's still what the O2 sensor looks like though, just not that particular one, apparently. B1S1 means Bank 1 Sensor 1, so you're looking for one on the engine side of the catalyst (it's the big bulge in the exhaust pipe, leading down in the second picture). The "rear O2 sensor" would be "S2" and would be on the exhaust side of the catalyst. And if you ever look at the underside of the car, remember that the big things towards the very rear of the car is the muffler, not the catalyst, so don't go looking for O2 sensors there. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Mar 8, 2018 |
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Mar 8, 2018 06:16
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totalnewbie, I'm pretty sure that's bank 2.  But if bank 1 has a similar manifold, it may be possible to get at the sensor from above.Crotch Fruit posted:My 2012 Chevrolet Impala LFX V-6 has a P015B code, O2 Sensor Delayed Response - Lean to Rich (Bank 1 Sensor 1). Is there even a remote chance this is the o2 sensor conveniently located on the front side of the engine? The only thing I have found from google is o2sensors.com.au says a bank 1 sensor 1 in a FWD V6 is going to be on the back of the engine. Is the rear o2 sensor typically accessible from above? The bank may be front or back, it just depends on the engine design. Whichever bank cylinder #1 is on will determine which side is "bank 1". Unfortunately for you, bank 1 on the LFX is the firewall side. I'm not sure about on the LFX, but the firewall side O2 isn't usually much fun to get at on most cars. O2 sensors have a pretty distinct shape to them (look at totalnewbie's second link); if totalnewbie's example uses a similar setup on both sides, you may be able to get at it from above. Expect to teach the neighborhood kids some new ways to swear, since you'll be leaning over the engine in the best case. Worst case, your neighbors will be dodging flying tools and covering their kids ears (and you'll need to use ramps or jackstands, plus some creative mixes of extensions and wobble joints). IMO, I'd just go ahead and do both sensors anyway, unless the car has relatively low miles, or the sensors are particularly spendy. Make sure to use a quality sensor - NTK or Denso is what I'd strongly suggest (the original sensor is likely one of those two anyway). Hit up Rockauto to find a part number, then cross shop the same part number on Amazon, decide which seller makes the most sense (if you have Amazon Prime, Amazon will often make the most sense if it's a part sold by Amazon themselves, once you factor in the faster shipping). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:42 on Mar 8, 2018 |
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Mar 8, 2018 08:32
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:IMO, I'd just go ahead and do both sensors anyway, unless the car has relatively low miles, or the sensors are particularly spendy. Make sure to use a quality sensor - NTK or Denso is what I'd strongly suggest (the original sensor is likely one of those two anyway). Hit up Rockauto to find a part number, then cross shop the same part number on Amazon, decide which seller makes the most sense (if you have Amazon Prime, Amazon will often make the most sense if it's a part sold by Amazon themselves, once you factor in the faster shipping). For sensors, get the OEM sensor. That's a Bosch sensor and I'll bet you that if you buy an NTK or Denso sensor at autopartsstore, you'll get a Bosch sensor out of the box anyway. Sensors are not nearly as interchangeable as something like spark plugs.
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Mar 8, 2018 15:58
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I took my daily to a track day last weekend and it was fine save for around the end of my third and last session where I started feeling a bit of a pulsating when braking kind of hard under speed. Afterwards its been fine on slow stuff but still happens on higher speed braking. Should I re-bed my brakes or look to swapping out rotors? The pads are still decently meaty. 2017 WRX - Stock rotors, Hawk Street/Race pads. I'll probably be flushing the brake fluid soon since its a little squishy and makes a bit of a wooshing sound when pressing the pedal.
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Mar 8, 2018 17:15
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Pulsing in the brake pedal? While its not impossible that your rotors may be warped the more likely explanation is pad deposits on the rotor. If I had to guess you may have held the brake after coming off the track with your rotors at high temperature, which can cause the pads to deposit some material onto the rotor, then every time that section of the rotor comes through the caliper additional material gets deposited, forming a high spot and eventually you get pulsation. I'd try re-bedding the pads, or if you have time and the necessary equipment you could try cleaning up the rotors with a wire wheel or cup on an angle grinder to remove any potential pad deposits.
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Mar 8, 2018 17:32
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1. Are there any good national parts search databases, or national junkyard chains? I'm looking for what feels like the equivalent of a left-handed Bolivian monkey wrench ('08 Saab 9-3 left rear axle, with LSD), and striking out in the area. 2. Has anyone here done the "buy a parts car" experiment and have it not end in tragedy? 3. Does anyone in the Southeast do axle rebuilds or repair? All I have is a torn friggin CV boot, but GM never sold the outer boot separately (just the whole axle assembly). Every shop that used to do it in my area has stopped.
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Mar 9, 2018 03:54
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LKQ is the biggest junkyard chain I can think of.
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Mar 9, 2018 03:57
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GD_American posted:1. Are there any good national parts search databases, or national junkyard chains? I'm looking for what feels like the equivalent of a left-handed Bolivian monkey wrench ('08 Saab 9-3 left rear axle, with LSD), and striking out in the area. car-part.com
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Mar 9, 2018 04:56
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PaintVagrant posted:car-part.com Good god, three hits. Will call tomorrow. Thank you!
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Mar 9, 2018 05:54
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Ready to do some third hand diagnosing? Ugh. Wife's 2013 Elantra, 1.8 auto, 55k miles. She said while waiting at a light it starting shaking violently like it wanted to stall, and make a squealing noise. The shaking went on for a few minutes until the light changed, then she drove the rest of the way without much issue. There's also almost always been a tapping noise from the engine, sounds like a noisy lifter to me. It's worse in the cold, but it seemed pretty common with these engines when I did some research, and when the engine warms up it would mostly go away. That noise is much louder now. Increases with RPM. Looking this up just has a bunch of people getting new engines. It's under the 100k warranty still, and we're taking it in next week. The belt noise was the weirdest thing to me. When I had it running with the hood open all the belts sound normal with and without the a/c on now. She was not running the defogger when it happened.
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Mar 9, 2018 14:57
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Alternator pulley?
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Mar 9, 2018 17:03
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I did some more exploring into my fan not shutting off issue and traced it down to a part called an After-Run Relay which turns out has also been part of my problem with the fan occasionally not working. Problem is the part was only used for one year and is virtually non-existent. The part only pulled up one google result by name and less than a dozen by part number. My question is is there a way to put a regular relay in it's place and disable the timing function? The one I have has a small circuit board in it on top of a traditional relay (which looked pretty well burned out). Here's a picture of the diagram. Link Jumping the violet wire to hot will jump start the fan when it doesn't feel like turning on and it will stay on until the battery is disconnected either way.
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Mar 10, 2018 01:54
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So, I could be way off buuuut ... what I'm seeing is, there's a bunch of extraneous garbage between the Radiator Fan Relay at the leftmost part of the page, and the radiator fan switch at top middle right. There's a coil in there that's likely the bum temperature sensor and a bunch of diodes and other stuff to make it work. Assuming that the Radiator Fan Relay (C26 I think?) gets power only when the car is "ON", then I think you could jump to J21 to have the radiator fan run all the time when the car is on (or install inline whatever aftermarket heater coil 2 pin relay thing that may or may not exist). The other wires from the After Run Relay can be removed or the whole thing left in place (ideal option) for when you find a new one. Also I have no idea what AMBIENT SWITCH (RADIATOR FAN SUPPORT 1) means or does.
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Mar 10, 2018 02:55
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I don't think you're far off, jumping 2 of the pins makes it run all the time, one talks to the other relay and by extension the computer Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Mar 10, 2018 |
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Mar 10, 2018 04:04
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So, I think TO CHARGING SYSTEM means it only works when the car is actively charging, as in, the motor is on, TO STARTER SYSTEM might mean that it pre-empts that and will work before the car is started (C26). so, C26 -> C27 -> J21 might work? (as far as Fan On when Car On is concerned) but, yeah, if my assumptions are right then jumping B1 -> C27 would make it run all the time e: pics of the actual connectors would help, probably
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Mar 10, 2018 04:18
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I can get some tomorrow but jumping the connector that only has 2 wires turns the fan on (section with dotted lines to the right). On that diagram it is labelled C26 and C25 which makes sense as C25 goes to the fan and C26 according to Page 5 goes to a fusible link and then the battery. C27 C9 and J21 are all control related as far as I can tell with C9 appearing to be a ground wire. Edit: If I am correct, would a simple 4 terminal relay with C27->C9 on the control side and C26->C25 work for this scenario? I'm not really sure J21's purpose in all of this. The AC was dealer installed and therefore doesn't follow the diagram's rules thankfully everything else does. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Mar 10, 2018 |
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Mar 10, 2018 04:27
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I don't exactly follow that logic. I'm assuming you're leaving the existing fan relay, left side of the diagram, in place? I would, anyway. It would save you from rearranging a lot of other stuff. C26 feeds into the relay, and if I'm reading the diagram right feeds C25 and C27. I would personally ignore one of those wires as they are doing something via diodes probably to do with the after run feature. So, ignoring C25 you've got C26---->[fan relay]---->C27 I don't know why there would be a need for another relay at this point, because you'd be using the fan relay to pick another relay. You could, but I don't see the need for it as C27 is already a relay-based power feed. If you start mucking around with the relay on the left you're opening up a can of worms with the automatic spark advance system. So basically meter C27 to see if it turns off when the car is off and if so jump it to the fan, probably via J21. The fan is already earthed via J20 on the two prong connector edit: I think it's going to be a case of metering to see whether it's C25 or 27 that turns off when the car is off autism ZX spectrum fucked around with this message at 15:23 on Mar 10, 2018 |
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Mar 10, 2018 15:20
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I think you may be misreading the diagram a bit, C25 directly connects to the input of the fan and is required, you can see it continuing through a connector to the upper left + fan input. C26 according to page 5 is a fused hot, C9 according to page 21 just taps into a main ground and C27 is fed by the relay on the left and is toggled by the computer. I suppose it might work if I just connect C27 and C25 but that would put all the amp load on the relay/computer. I wasn't planning on changing the left relay, it works fine and is a control relay, the one I am having issues with is the relay that actually turns the fan on and off directly. I could be completely wrong, someone correct me if I am. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Mar 10, 2018 |
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Mar 10, 2018 16:19
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Oh gently caress you're right I was reading it wrong. I don't see where C27 goes through a computer, though. In the case that C27 goes through a computer, your initial relay idea would work no problem.
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Mar 10, 2018 16:33
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The computer connects via C80 if I'm reading this right to enable the left relay when the car is in the run position sending a signal down C27 as needed. Thanks for the help and confirming that would work. I'll pick up a basic 12v relay when I go to the auto parts store since the radiator decided it didn't want to hold fluid any more. Edit: Sorry for clogging up the thread everyone, I wasn't sure where else to post technical questions. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Mar 10, 2018 |
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Mar 10, 2018 16:48
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Two stupid questions. My 1997 Camry's oem battery termials are corroded to poo poo. Is it best to find as close a replacement as possible, or are there other terminals that would be easier/cheaper to find as replacements? Also, is it true that replacing the negative terminal is going to require sawing through the cable? I read that somewhere and figure I should pick up a saw if that's the case.
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Mar 10, 2018 17:14
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I have a 2000 camry and had to change the terminals a few months back, it was a simple unbolt old terminals bolt in new ones affair and I just used whatever ones were close enough at the auto parts store. I didn't have to cut anything.
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Mar 10, 2018 17:21
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It's easy and convenient to pick up some new ones at your local auto parts store and remove/replace yourself. Like said above, no cutting necessary.
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Mar 10, 2018 17:25
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I got myself a cheap oil pump for changing oil through the dipstick. Should be a time saver not having to crawl around under the car and whatnot. Is there any reason why this would be better or worse than draining the oil through the plug the usual way?
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Mar 10, 2018 17:29
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You might not get all the sludge up like that. Draining by pulling the plug tends to flush the pan pretty thoroughly.
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Mar 10, 2018 17:31
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EightBit posted:You might not get all the sludge up like that. Draining by pulling the plug tends to flush the pan pretty thoroughly. *assuming the plug is the lowest point in the pan*
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Mar 10, 2018 17:32
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It depends, if your engine sludges at all or otherwise has crud in the pan the pump will likely not get it out as well as the traditional method since you don't have the mass of oil pushing it out. Plus you won't know if any metal shavings are on the plug magnet. If your car(s) are not ancient like mine I can't see it hurting anything.
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Mar 10, 2018 17:33
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Autoexec.bat posted:The computer connects via C80 if I'm reading this right to enable the left relay when the car is in the run position sending a signal down C27 as needed. I kind of see what you're saying but I think I'm reading it differently. C80 is only shown once going to the Spark Advance System. It appears to be isolated from C27 by a coil. I think that C80 and B1 are on the control side of the relay (suggested by having their own connector) and C27 and C26 are on the switched side. I'm not sure why C2 appears on both sides. I am assuming that when power is applied C27 and 26 are switched together. Either way, putting in another relay would be playing it extra safe.
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Mar 10, 2018 17:40
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