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I replaced the auxilliary radiator on the RS2. Old heap:  New hotness, made of aluminium: 
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Mar 8, 2018 23:45
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Now that's pretty.
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Mar 10, 2018 00:28
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No shame in Rockauto close out specials. Had to replace the rear pads @ 29K miles last year. Came out to I think around $120 for both rotors and raybestos pads with the wear indicator pigtail (actually had 2 in the box) but only need one. Fronts will be a different story.
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Mar 10, 2018 04:02
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:No shame in Rockauto close out specials. Love em. I ordered a fuel filter for a dollar the other day (and then spent $20 on speedy shipping cause I was already waiting on the wrong one they sent me for $15, lol)
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Mar 10, 2018 05:20
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I replaced the fuel pump on my truck doing it the one man method way. You loosen the bolts for the bed on one side and remove them on the other and tilt it up. It's a bit stretchy since you're working under it but I had 3 fail safes. It's good for when you have no friends to help pull the whole thing off.  
Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Mar 10, 2018 |
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Mar 10, 2018 21:56
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Finally found the source of my wife's Fusion's persistent lean condition code. PCV hose was split down the middle, couldn't see it until the intake manifold came off. Of course the nearest parts store with the molded hose was 30+ miles away, so I bought a foot of 5/8" heater hose and rigged it temporarily. Part is half cost on rock auto anyways, but I'm not looking forward to taking the intake manifold back off again - 4 of the 7 bolts holding it on are blind or very close to it.
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Mar 11, 2018 03:09
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Replaced the God drat cooling system in the e46. The car is much quieter now, the pulley on the water pump could wobble about half an inch forward and backwards...
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Mar 11, 2018 03:33
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 Not bad, Saturd. Not bad. Outside of stuff that easily falls into routine maintenance (tires, belts, hoses, etc), I have less than $1000 into this car in repairs in 5 years/140k. Add $130 if you count a battery as a repair instead of routine (the original battery made it past 10 years, so I count that as far overdue routine stuff). That's including the (failed) ac repair.  I'll be shocked if I get another 25k out of the clutch though. Austin actually has a few hills here and there. That's a pretty loving painful expense on this car.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:15 on Mar 11, 2018 |
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Mar 11, 2018 07:49
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GODDAMNIT QUOTE IS NOT EDIT
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Mar 11, 2018 08:01
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You’ve migrated down from Dallas?
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Mar 11, 2018 14:20
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I will be in August.
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Mar 11, 2018 19:43
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Larrymer posted:I replaced the fuel pump on my truck doing it the one man method way. You loosen the bolts for the bed on one side and remove them on the other and tilt it up. It's a bit stretchy since you're working under it but I had 3 fail safes. It's good for when you have no friends to help pull the whole thing off. When I saw "the one man method" I immediately expected to see a hole cut in the bed. In Maine the bed doesn't just come off like that (well, they rust off like that sometimes...), so people cut an access hole. I made my car have a bigger number on the thing. 
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Mar 11, 2018 23:22
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Cleaned out my carb took it completely to bits. Was good to see how everything worked and when I put it back together there was no leftover parts. Amazing!
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Mar 12, 2018 12:25
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chrisgt posted:When I saw "the one man method" I immediately expected to see a hole cut in the bed. In Maine the bed doesn't just come off like that (well, they rust off like that sometimes...), so people cut an access hole. I did this job 2 years ago and pulled the bed off completely. 2 of the bed 8 nuts seized so I bought a welder and welded on new ones and made patch panels.  I had a feeling it would come off better this time since it hadn't been that long and not too many miles. I lifted by the wheel well to tilt the bed up and the area and found that the PO used body filler to try and stop the rust. Bunch of that poo poo cracked and fell off where I was lifting from. At this point I plan to sell the truck before it fails again. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 13:17 on Mar 12, 2018 |
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Mar 12, 2018 13:15
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Larrymer posted:I did this job 2 years ago and pulled the bed off completely. 2 of the bed 8 nuts seized so I bought a welder and welded on new ones and made patch panels. Just put a flatbed on it. You aren't allowed to brush your teeth or cut your hair for the first year of having a flatbed pickup truck, though.
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Mar 13, 2018 01:12
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Actually found a color-matching door for the Miata so I did a cannonball run to Philly (5 hour round trip) to pick it up as well as a new driver’s side seat. The door even came with a mirror and handle so I swapped my lock tumbler over to the new door since my old handle was broken as well. Old door; you can see the rusty spot at the front with the band-aid decals:  Old seat:  Currently   
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Mar 13, 2018 03:38
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Another $1300 worth of tyres.... hosed wheel alignments and having to dick around fitting new upper control arms ruined two of my 5 BFG AT's that I use for day to day tyres, so I got a new set of 4 and went up in size. 285/75R16 Toyo AT II's. Theyre a lot bigger than my BFG muds in the same size!
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Mar 13, 2018 05:53
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When I did the fuel pump on my GMT800 a year ago I just dropped the tank, since I had to get in behind it to replace the failed brake line anyway. New straps aren't expensive and if you've got the luxury of a still-mostly-working pump to run the tank right dry like I did it's not really very hard. Certainly easier than dealing with the seized bed bolts. That said, if this truck outlasts the current pump I'm probably making an access hatch for the next one, if only for ease of access to the evap stuff next time that valve breaks.
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Mar 13, 2018 05:53
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Mine died in front of my house, so it was a bit annoying not to be able to do that or even pull it in the garage. If you notice, I used the wife's yoga mat for the snowy areas of the ground I was sitting on.  Though after lifting the bed a bit and hammering the tank, it started right up. Still was 60% full, and I wasn't about to try loving with dropping the tank once I heard about the tipping bed method... And since I knew the bed bolts would most likely come out just fine.
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Mar 13, 2018 11:23
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Sunday was "replace the radiator on the Kia" day, since the original 130K mile rad developed a crack, noticed when I went to go flush it because of this: Yeah, I let that go too long without changing the coolant. Crack was making a mess, but was at the top of the radiator, so it was still staying cool. Just lost a bit of coolant under pressure.   Radiator came out fairly easy. Fans bolt on at the top, tab and sockets at the bottom. Radiator pretty much same. four bolts secure the AC condenser to the radiator.  Old and busted:   New hotness:  Nasty fans:  Clean fans:  Had to get the smutz out of the overflow bottle so it didn't ge back into the system:   Hard to see, but there's like a 1/2" layer of mud down there. Yuck! Some CLR and a handful of bolts to agitate, plus a lot of shaking like a cocktail, and it's clean, if a bit stained:  See that thing right below the bottle, that's a chunk of the crud that was in there. What the actual gently caress? Both the head and the block are aluminum. I'm not sure where this goop is coming from.  I also don't remember if the last fill was "long-life" or traditional green. It's green now, and I'll just do annual changes. Cleaned as much of the old coolant/rust off of the surrounding area as I could:  All better:  Jacked the front end as high as I could to burp it, because this model likes to keep an air bubble in the heater core. It doesn't affect cooling performance significantly, it just gurgles when you switch to and from heat. Took it for a blast down the highway and beat on it for a bit, and the temp stays just below half-way at all times, which was were it stayed with the OEM radiator, even when it was cracked. Meanwhile, the driver's inside door handle broke when I was getting in and out. The body control computer likes to re-lock the doors a few minutes after unlocking - it's programmed to relock the doors if a door is not opened after remote unlock, and I don't think it's seeing the door pin signal. There's apparently a TSB on it. Anyway, it decided to lock the door at exactly the same instant I pulled on the door handle to get out of the car, and *snap*. I thought that the arm on the plastic door handle broke. Nope:    It broke the pot-metal nub off of the cable going to the latch. Cable is $6 on Amazon, so got one coming. In the mean time, I came up with a way for my wife to get out of the car without rolling the window down:   There, I fixed it.
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Mar 13, 2018 17:34
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Anything but a zip tie for that temp repair is inherently unsafe
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Mar 13, 2018 23:00
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Bought the 245 some rare wheels.
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Mar 14, 2018 00:04
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angryrobots posted:Anything but a zip tie for that temp repair is inherently unsafe Wouldn't fit through the little hole on the aftermarket power door lock linkage clamp thingy. Only has to last a couple of days - the cable was Prime eligible Terrible Robot posted:Bought the 245 some rare wheels. Those are pretty. Do those use the large cap like the standard 240 aluminum wheels, or just a cap at the very center?
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Mar 14, 2018 00:11
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Darchangel posted:Those are pretty. Do those use the large cap like the standard 240 aluminum wheels, or just a cap at the very center? Just a chrome cap in the very center. I'm probably going to paint the inner spokes and the hub area black and really make them pop.
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Mar 14, 2018 01:39
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Pulled the drivers door card off yesterday to see why the speaker was only intermittently working and saw the rubber around the cone was tearing. Tightened up the connector on the ground wire anyways and now it doesn't work at all all. Put the door card on and said gently caress it. Then today I went and tried putting the coilovers in the rear so I can stop bulldogging around town. In 4 hours I got one side done, with highlights including pulling the wrong bolt out (lateral link that controls toe instead of the bottom shock bolt) just to have everything shift and not be able to put it back in. Finally got it back in by using a bottle jack to line everything back up. Repeat for every other loving bolt while putting it back together. Started on the other side and absolutely flew through disassembly only to have it start fighting me on reassembly again. Gave up when I ran out of light and the temps dipped into the 40s. I'll fight it more tomorrow and hopefully get it aligned. And if all 4 sway bar end links weren't hosed before, they're hosed now! At least they're cheap through work!  Edit: In short, 
Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Mar 14, 2018 |
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Mar 14, 2018 04:00
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I'm a huge fan of using ratchet straps to line suspension parts back up when bolting things in. Just don't click it one click too far or you get to start over.
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Mar 15, 2018 01:29
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Honestly, bottle jack and a screwdriver worked well enough. Still couldn't get the loving shock mounting bracket back into its hole so I called in reinforcements. An old coworker was a nissan master tech who was also gtr certified and works on everything from semis, tractors and ex mil hmmvs to regular rear end cars nowadays. Called him and he agreed to swing by today to see if he could pop it in. His joe dirt jesus lookin rear end rocked up around 7:30 in a bright orange 350z convertible he was working on for a customer and stabbed it in first loving try. He left, I finished bolting everything (except the subframe bolts, lololol) up and went for a shakedown cruise. I get it aligned tomorrow so I'll finish tightening up the subframe bolts while its in the air at the tire shop.
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Mar 15, 2018 02:55
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That reminds me I need to buy a spud wrench.
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Mar 15, 2018 03:39
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StormDrain posted:That reminds me I need to buy a spud wrench. Northern Tool sells a small spud wrench without the wrench - a spud spike, I guess - that I bought. Turned out to be to big for the motor mount on the Kia, which was the first job I needed something like that since buying it, but only just. I'm sure it will still come in handy. I need to look again, but I think their smaller spud wrench tapers down a bit more. If so, I'll probably buy one or those, too. Come to think of it, I should turn down some 1/2" rod to a taper on Dad's lathe. Maybe 5 degrees? Whatever gets me about 3/16" taper over a foot or so. edit: actually did something to the Crown Vic yesterday after work. Some may recall I'm getting a CEL code for too much EGR. The EGR assembly on the car is a Standard-branded replacement that I put on when I bought it a couple years ago, to replace the OEM unit that was throwing a code for too little EGR. The old one had a bad DPFE (sensor that measures the amount of EGR dilution). The newer one appears to be suffering from a sticking EGR valve or solenoid. I decided to try swapping the DPFE module from the newer EGR assembly on to the old EGR assembly. Older Crown Vics had this assembly as three separate components. Mine, it's a $130 unit. Gonna try this before dropping the $$. The newer EGR assembly on the car:  Same, on the bench:  DPFE is the rectangular box with electrical connector at the front. It has a connector at the back that plugs into the solenoid behind it. DPFE removed. Prongs sticking out are the connector for the solenoid.  OEM EGR with DPFE removed:  It's worth noting here that the DPFEs were slightly different, thanks to aftermarket finagling. It still fits the same, but the actual module is wider, overhanging the mounting slots, and, most vexing until I figured it out, the plastic bit of the solenoid connector is just a tiny bit bigger in both height and width, which, since it's a tight fit, prevented the plug from going into the solenoid. Once I figured that out, a bit of filing sorted it. Old EGR, new(er) DPFE:  Back on the car:  No codes so far, and by the time I got to work and checked the monitors, the EGR system was showing ready. It also seems to be running smoothly, which was a problem when the EGR was misbehaving. Too much EGR makes it rough and stumbles a lot. At times, it wouldn't even idle after a start. Fingers crossed, since the inspection and registration are up end of the month. Still have 3 monitors not ready, so needs a bit more driving before I can get it inspected. Will try Saturday after driving it to work tomorrow as well. It's handy to have and OBD reader on the phone, for sure. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Mar 15, 2018 |
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Mar 15, 2018 16:34
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I broke it! Managed to crossthread one of the brake line ports on the master cylinder on my Lancia Fulvia. You guys think I can retap the threads on this or did I just make a reaalllyy expensive mistake?
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Mar 15, 2018 21:19
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Grakkus posted:I broke it! The threads might clean up with a tap, if you didn't mangle them too far. Might require a helicoil. Either way, be certain to flush any metal shavings out of the port afterward!
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Mar 16, 2018 00:03
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Darchangel posted:Still have 3 monitors not ready, so needs a bit more driving before I can get it inspected. Will try Saturday after driving it to work tomorrow as well. It's handy to have and OBD reader on the phone, for sure. If you need ~750-1000 miles put on it in a week, let me know, because I can definitely do that.
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Mar 16, 2018 06:34
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:If you need ~750-1000 miles put on it in a week, let me know, because I can definitely do that. Probably more than I put on it in a month! Still two monitors unready - Catalyst heat and Evap. edit: and no CEL with the EGR system monitor ready, which is good.
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Mar 16, 2018 18:26
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Prodded holes in my sill. I guess it's a good thing I bought a welder this week.
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Mar 16, 2018 19:06
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Darchangel posted:The threads might clean up with a tap, if you didn't mangle them too far. Might require a helicoil. Either way, be certain to flush any metal shavings out of the port afterward! Fixed the threads with a tap, that's 450 dollars saved 
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Mar 16, 2018 23:43
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The dome light stopped working shortly after we got the Crown. It has a whole bunch of lights all over so it isn't a big deal but I finally popped off the lens to see what's up.   The bulb and that tab were just sitting up there in a way that prevents them from rolling around. Once the lens was down they fell off. What's happened is the post that is punched through that metal tab that pinches the bulb on the ends (and makes electrical contact) broke. You can see in the second picture that the post goes through the plastic and is connected to a wire (you can barely see) on the other side. Easy enough to fix, just have to reconnect the wire to the tab and re-connect the tab itself to that plastic. It's going to look goofy and nasty but it's going to be under the lens so who cares! What an weird thing to brake though.
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Mar 17, 2018 03:18
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Throw a 12v LED panel in there, boom done much better light. Though you flip these, right?
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Mar 17, 2018 05:52
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If he flips the Crown he gets kicked out of AI.
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Mar 17, 2018 06:06
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Throw a 12v LED panel in there, boom done much better light. I've got a little LED panel with the cones on the end that will work there of course. I do flip these but the Crown was bought for personal use so it isn't being flipped. We'll see once we get the Hilux if there is a place for it.
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Mar 17, 2018 17:04
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KakerMix posted:I've got a little LED panel with the cones on the end that will work there of course. You can't ever sell the Crown. I would cry.
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Mar 17, 2018 18:03
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