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Deteriorata posted:Generally, when the speed is set pressing the Off button unsets the speed but leaves the system on. Pressing it twice shuts it off completely. In my experience, they always have a completely separate system on/off button. Separate from any set / cancel / resume button. I've never seen a system like you describe but that's interesting! Geoj posted:My best guess is safeguard, so you don't accidentally hit the "resume" button after exiting the highway having previously been set to 60+ MPH, causing the car to accelerate unexpectedly. This sounds pretty plausible.
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Mar 12, 2018 01:25
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Wile E. Toyota posted:Hi all, I have never posted in this subforum but I read the rules and hopefully it's okay to ask this here. It depends on the local market. Usually Subarus sell at higher prices. That doesn't really mean anything unless you're going to get rid of the car, though. What's the end game? Or, when do you see yourself buying another car? Does the Subaru fill a particular niche in your life the Hyundai wouldn't? Personally I would probably take the lower mileage car if it was offered to me and all I was doing was commuting. That being said, I have no idea what aftermarket support is like for Hyundai compared to Subaru.
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Mar 12, 2018 01:31
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Breakfast Feud posted:It depends on the local market. Usually Subarus sell at higher prices. That doesn't really mean anything unless you're going to get rid of the car, though. What's the end game? Or, when do you see yourself buying another car? I don't see myself buying a new car anytime soon, but I will have to eventually, of course. So I'd like to keep whichever car would get me the most trade-in value in the future. But I guess that's pretty difficult to predict with so many variables and an unknown amount of time. One pro of the Subaru is the all-wheel drive. I still have to deliver when it's icy, but this is Texas so that's pretty rare. I believe I'd get much better gas mileage from the Elantra, so maybe it would be worth it for that alone. I guess I'll have to think about it some more. Since you didn't say, "holy poo poo you should OBVIOUSLY go with ______" it must be not be that major of a decision, so that's a bit of a relief. Thank you.
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Mar 12, 2018 01:58
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Both of them are imports so you're going to pay more for parts. I've known people dissatisfied with their Subarus and in love with their Elantras and vice versa. If you put winter tires on the Elantra I reckon it'll do just as well as the Subaru in the winter. If you're not keeping the Subaru for the extra space it offers, I would be tempted to take the newer, lower mileage car. Trade in values are usually abysmally low and, honestly, I think a car with fewer dents and lower miles would get you a better trade in price at the dealer's than something from a more reputable brand name. The dealer is trying to sell the car as fast as possible and cosmetics go a long way to that end. Though, personally, I can't deal with the anxiety of driving a car I think I'm going to sell for maximum profit some day.
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Mar 12, 2018 02:25
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Wile E. Toyota posted:Edit: If it's relevant, the miles on the Hyundai are mostly highway miles, whereas I'm a delivery driver so most of the miles on my Subaru come from city driving, starting and stopping, turning the car on and off 35+ times a day, etc. It's been driven hard but has never really had a problem. FWIW, I just broke 200k on a GM econobox. Got it with 60k, the rest of the miles have been mostly delivery miles. I've never had any real issues with it aside from the A/C. Delivery miles are harder on a car, sure, but so long as you stay on top of maintenance, the only things you're really going to go through faster are tires, brakes, and possibly starters (I'm still on the original, somehow).
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Mar 12, 2018 07:46
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Breakfast Feud posted:
If you really wanted to test that, a clamp meter would be safe. However, a more useful test would be watching battery voltage during a crank attempt. And as lovely as a free HF meter is, it's perfectly fine at measuring 0-20V.
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Mar 12, 2018 07:56
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Just buy a nice new Fluke 87 and be done with multimeter purchasing sheesh
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Mar 12, 2018 10:09
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The Car: 2007 Toyota Solara, 111k miles, 2AZ-FE 2.4l i4 automatic. The Problem: Slight Grinding/stuttering sound at 1500rpm in any gear, has been going on for a while, just now annoyed enough with it to do something about it. Engine seems to "hang up" at 1500rpm and make a sound not unlike tossing coffee beans into a food processor. It will continue to make that sound, but only just at 1500rpm. Lower rpm (idle and at very light cruising, like 3mph) it burbles along just fine, except a very slight tick from the injectors, which I'm working on fixing, and above 1500rpm it drives beautifully. It's just annoying because 1500rpm is a very common place to sit at cruising along in traffic because that's just where the automatic likes to sit. Could it be a belt slipping? Serpentine was replaced at 80k miles, Timing chain has never been replaced/serviced, but I wouldn't think that would be an issue yet. My particular 2AZ has the excessive oil consumption issue, and burns about the quart of oil every 1200 miles as noted by Toyota. Transmission hasn't been serviced in a good while (last done at 60k miles), but drives fine, although it's had a slight hangup 2nd to 3rd since 15000 miles.
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Mar 12, 2018 15:09
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Wile E. Toyota posted:Hi all, I have never posted in this subforum but I read the rules and hopefully it's okay to ask this here. What's your question? If you're asking strictly which one is worth more in the eyes of an aftermarket car buyer - Kelley Blue Book value for your Elantra is $3200-4000 The Subaru Forester's KBB is around $3500-4500. In general, there is a higher demand for Subaru wagon's out there, then there is for old Elantra's. If you're trying to not rip your mom off financially - it's only about a $1000 difference in value, so I wouldn't worry about it. If you're looking for utility - decide which vehile is more useful for your lifestyle and driving habits. Choose from there *Edit wow post beaten by like 10, sorry.
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Mar 12, 2018 15:21
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Stupid question: One of the plastic gears in my rear driver side window motor got crunched and I'm getting in a replacement today, hopefully. There was a small amount of a white or cloudy grease in the little gear box. What grease should I be applying on this gear when I reassemble it? Preferably something I can pick up quickly at a local AutoZone/O'Reilly's. Thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3039682&pagenumber=134&perpage=40#post482064564
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Mar 12, 2018 20:14
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White lithium grease, probably.
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Mar 12, 2018 20:35
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spankmeister posted:I got myself a cheap oil pump for changing oil through the dipstick. Should be a time saver not having to crawl around under the car and whatnot. alnilam posted:What is the point of the button that turns the cruise control system on and off? Does the system consume much power? Did it used to? Is it a historical/legacy thing? And seconding white lithium grease - that stuff is just generally useful. I put it on all sorts of things, like the slides/rollers for sliding doors in my apartment.
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Mar 12, 2018 22:26
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So juat to be safe, white lithium grease should be safe for plastics right?
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Mar 12, 2018 22:36
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Yep!
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Mar 12, 2018 23:06
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ExecuDork posted:Can you reach your oil filter without crawling underneath? I already thought about this, I can reach it from the top yes. In fact it's easier. The filter doesn't even need a special tool to get off because it has a piece of sheet metal folded into the shape of a nut welded to it. e: I ordered the new oil and a bottle of engine flush, should arrive this week. Gonna do the oil change this weekend. Will let you guys know how I get on. I already replaced my rear shocks this Saturday so my neighbors must love me (I'm doing all the work on my flat's shared parking space). spankmeister fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Mar 13, 2018 |
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Mar 13, 2018 00:06
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2014 Subaru Impreza – 35K miles Toward the end of a lazy Sunday drive (about a hour) the ABS, Hill Assist and Vehicle Dynamics Control lights all came on. Yesterday I went on three quick trips, the same lights came on during the middle run, but were gone for the 3rd. Some googling suggested it might be a wonky fuse, sensor or connection. 2nd question – anyone have a suggestion for a good shop in Chicago?
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Mar 13, 2018 16:39
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95 Corolla, 215 K miles I went to a new mechanic today for an oil change. With my new job it's super inconvenient to go to my old mechanic, who has taken care of my car for the last 4 or 5 years. I was expecting to be told that I need two sets of new struts and all new tires - we had discussed it before the winter. This is what I got: code:Should I just do the struts? I want to keep this car running until its falling apart or autonomous electric vehicles are affordable. I've been striking a pretty good balance so far, but blowing $$3300 + tires on the say so of a brand-new-to-me independent shop that has a lot of good reviews but no built up good will on my part seems a little dicey...
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Mar 14, 2018 00:23
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Get a second opinion on that work. The fact that they added "steam clean" makes me think they might be taking you for a ride. The price is high enough that I would be tempted to take the time off work and see the other mechanic. You'd stand to lose less in a day's wages (probably) than you would by overpaying.
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Mar 14, 2018 00:48
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Looking at a used van. 92 Dodge 250 ram conversion van, 5.2l engine (v8?). Has a few minor to medium broken things that I'm looking for a general idea of the butt-pain level involved with fixing. They are: Cruise control Blower motor Odometer It runs great and drives nicely, but that's stuff I need to fix to actually use it as intended. General opinions on the model are also welcome. According to the seller it has the motor from the 1993 model in it which is supposedly more reliable. I don't know enough to sanity check that claim. Javid fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Mar 14, 2018 |
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Mar 14, 2018 01:34
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Breakfast Feud posted:Get a second opinion on that work. The fact that they added "steam clean" makes me think they might be taking you for a ride. The price is high enough that I would be tempted to take the time off work and see the other mechanic. You'd stand to lose less in a day's wages (probably) than you would by overpaying. If the engine bay is particularly dirty, I can see them wanting to power wash it before working on it - it'll let them identify leaks a lot easier, and makes it generally less miserable to work on. But that takes, what, 10, 15 minutes at the local DIY car wash? Go back to your previous mechanic, Happiness Commando, even if it means renting a car here and there. Good mechanics are worth their weight in titanium. It sounds like your old mechanic knew that you were comfortable with the leak and was fine with letting sleeping dogs lie, so long as you know to keep it topped off. So long as you're in a state that won't fail you on a yearly inspection for leaks, and the leak doesn't get worse, I'd just top it off every few months as needed. Your water pump would have been replaced the last time your timing belt was replaced, if you've had it replaced. If they're wanting to replace JUST the water pump without doing a full timing belt job, they're loving stupid; you have to remove everything involved with the timing belt job to get to the water pump, the belt and tensioner are a fraction of the cost compared to the labor involved to get to the pump. On your car, the timing belt drives the water pump; they're generally replaced together every 90-110k (miles) on US models. If the water pump is leaking, the timing belt is on borrowed time (coolant absolutely destroys belts). The timing belt is kinda important. If it breaks, the car dies immediately. It's not easy to get to, and on most cars, you wind up with significant engine damage when it breaks (you're a bit lucky in this regard, your engine is what's known as "non-interference", so it's just "tow to shop, line everything back up, do timing belt service" so long as it didn't break at, say, 6000 RPM). Now if you don't know when the timing belt was last done, then I would definitely get both the timing belt and water pump replaced (as I mentioned, they're generally done together anyway), which will also include new coolant, and usually new accessory belts. It's usually an all-day job, maybe 2 days for a 1 man shop that stays busy; if at all possible, I'd have your previous mechanic do it, and just rent a car for a couple of days (or walk, bike, public transit, etc.. whatever makes the most sense in your area).
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Mar 14, 2018 06:51
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I got t-boned by a red light runner and my beloved 2010 RAV4 Sport V6 4WD is no more   Now I'm trying to figure out what it was worth, so I know whether insurance is giving me a fair offer (claim is still being processed). I've got the KBB estimate, but I really wanted to see what somebody is actually selling my same car for. I am having a hell of a time finding any for sale though that are like mine though. Mine had ~105,000 miles on it. Here's the sticker: 
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Mar 14, 2018 08:21
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Start searching Carmax (default search is within 250 miles, expand it nationally if you have to), and also check Toyota lots in your region, for similarly equipped models. Carmax will probably be better on that, as a 2010 will be a little on the older side for a Toyota lot to have on their used lot (not impossible, but a Toyota lot taking something like that on trade will probably send it to auction, or maybe a buy-here-pay-here lot that they may own). Carmax tends to have extremely clean cars - and prices them accordingly (at the very high end of KBB). You could also check Craigslist isn't a bad idea either, but for something fully loaded (which I'd guess a V6 AWD would be close to), you're more likely to find something like that at a dealer. For a real comedy option, price DriveTime - they're a nationwide buy-here-pay-here chain, and they're priced like most BHPH lots (very high). Their cars are a mix of garbage and clean, but always priced high. And if your particular RAV4 options were really hard to find, they may have one you can use to base your price on. If you have full coverage and a reasonable deductible, don't be afraid to pay your deductible and let your insurance company handle it for you - if you have a decent insurance company, they'll be more likely to not lowball the hell out of you, and they should have your back on this stuff (this is why you pay them the big bucks). They'll subrogate to get your deductible (and their money) back. Nationwide basically declared war, on my behalf, on another insurance company when they refused to even talk to them or me... for a ~$1000 claim (my deductible is $250). It took over 6 months, but I got my deductible back, and it shows up as "collision - not at fault" on my CLUE report (one of the main reports insurance companies use to find your claims history). Having Nationwide go to war against a lovely company on my behalf, even over such a small amount, made sure I'll keep collision on all but the shittiest of beaters. Having them say "we'll handle this, here's a rental car, and if you use a partner shop, lifetime warranty on the work" was a big relief. Having that random $250 check show up in the mail 6 months later was nice too! randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:23 on Mar 14, 2018 |
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Mar 14, 2018 09:13
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fletcher posted:I got t-boned by a red light runner and my beloved 2010 RAV4 Sport V6 4WD is no more Probably not important, given this forum, but are you okay?
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Mar 14, 2018 09:59
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To compliment what others said, have your company and their company run the total loss numbers. Take the higher one. I’d also search autotrader and start expanding out the radius. Match at least Y/M/M and drivetrain but options can be adjusted much easier. See what general comparables are going for. When they give you the Total Loss amount, ask for the valuation report. This lists the vehicles they used as comparables.
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Mar 14, 2018 13:51
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:If the engine bay is particularly dirty, I can see them wanting to power wash it before working on it - it'll let them identify leaks a lot easier, and makes it generally less miserable to work on. But that takes, what, 10, 15 minutes at the local DIY car wash? I've never seen a local car wash that'll let you do that. I've even seen some with cameras.
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Mar 14, 2018 15:51
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Godholio posted:I've never seen a local car wash that'll let you do that. I've even seen some with cameras. That's confusing as hell to me. All of the pay and sprays here even have a "engine cleaner" setting, and part of running one is that they actually process their drain water. Doing it in your driveway, it's just going into the storm sewers.
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Mar 14, 2018 16:17
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Godholio posted:I've never seen a local car wash that'll let you do that. I've even seen some with cameras. ??? like IOC said, every pay 'n' spray I've seen has an "engine cleaner" soap setting. Do you live in California or some other place that may not appreciate the greasy river?
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Mar 14, 2018 16:30
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Has anyone used third party inurance for the excess on a rental car? This kind of thing. Seems way cheaper than taking the cover from the rental place, but are they awful about actually paying out if it comes to it?
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Mar 14, 2018 16:42
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:??? like IOC said, every pay 'n' spray I've seen has an "engine cleaner" soap setting. Do you live in California or some other place that may not appreciate the greasy river? Sometimes it's labeled as "wheel and engine" or just "wheel" cleaner. You could always bring your own degreaser with you too...
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Mar 14, 2018 16:54
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So what's the appropriate way to clean an engine bay and not gently caress up any electrics or get water in your spark plug recesses,, intake, etc?
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Mar 14, 2018 18:04
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Father Jack posted:Has anyone used third party inurance for the excess on a rental car? This kind of thing. Not used it myself but have heard very good things about it. Certainly heard a lot of bad things about car hire insurance from the car company. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTH0561S_ZY
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Mar 14, 2018 18:08
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MetaJew posted:So what's the appropriate way to clean an engine bay and not gently caress up any electrics or get water in your spark plug recesses,, intake, etc? Be careful around wiring connections, plug wires and anything else relatively fragile when using a pressure washer.
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Mar 14, 2018 18:20
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spog posted:Not used it myself but have heard very good things about it. Yeah, expecting some pushback from the rental desk if I go that route, for sure. If it's just renting the cheapest thing on the lot for a day or two I usually either take the rental company insurance or take my chances, but we need two big estate cars for a family holiday in Italy and excess on a V90 with Hertz is €2500, charge for 0 excess cover is €429 per car for 9 days. Looks like you can buy a year of Europe wide cover for £40 - £50 from the third party places. I know the rental companies are motivated to show a low base price then make their money in extras, but holy poo poo. I guess they are they same people who continue to charge more to rent a GPS unit for a week than they cost to buy, when most everyone's got a smartphone that can do it though.
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Mar 14, 2018 19:01
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Father Jack posted:Yeah, expecting some pushback from the rental desk if I go that route, for sure. In most cases (at least in the US), your personal car insurance covers rentals as well, so what they're offering is useless. Check your own policy.
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Mar 14, 2018 19:05
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Also some credit cards offer insurance on rentals as a benefit.
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Mar 14, 2018 19:10
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Deteriorata posted:In most cases (at least in the US), your personal car insurance covers rentals as well, so what they're offering is useless. I'm in the UK, don't think this the case here, especially for rentals outside the UK, but will check. alnilam posted:Also some credit cards offer insurance on rentals as a benefit. This too.
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Mar 14, 2018 19:22
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Father Jack posted:Yeah, expecting some pushback from the rental desk if I go that route, for sure. https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/travel/cheap-car-hire Let them do the hard sell on you: double-check everything you are signing and just give them a dead-eye stare whenever they try to upsell. Then double-check again. Father Jack posted:we need two big estate cars for a family holiday in Italy I've got a better idea:  spog fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Mar 14, 2018 |
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Mar 14, 2018 19:32
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alnilam posted:Also some credit cards offer insurance on rentals as a benefit. Almost always this is written as secondary coverage, so your regular auto insurance is primary. Not a huge deal but those rental car accidents will wind up going on your record.
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Mar 14, 2018 20:15
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alnilam posted:Also some credit cards offer insurance on rentals as a benefit. Mine does. I call them every time I'm going to rent a car just to be 100% sure, and they always say "Yes, absolutely, 100%, do not pay anything extra for this to anybody, you are already covered". They DO NOT cover a rented trailer, though. Anything that falls into the category "Equipment" is not covered by my credit card. Father Jack posted:This too.
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Mar 14, 2018 21:32
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I want to pay someone to add tint to my windows. Is there a surefire way to go about this so that they don't eventually bubble and look lovely besides "ask around"?
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Mar 14, 2018 22:27
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