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Hell yeah murdered out Elite
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Jan 26, 2018 18:48
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Rubber Slug posted:
All you need is a milk crate for the rear rack, congrats!
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Jan 27, 2018 00:43
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I dig it.
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Jan 27, 2018 05:07
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80ccs of FURY. they’re probably the most common model that isn’t poo poo on my local CL, and often the most affordable, too! helixes and older/bigger elites command more.
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Jan 27, 2018 05:09
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This is the first time this has happened to the scooter in my ownership, and since I'm looking to sell it, I want to see what it is so I can at least inform buyers, or maybe even get an estimate from my local shop. I have a 2006 Genuine Buddy 50. I am the second owner. It has roughly 3450 miles on it. I didn't use the scooter over the winter. I tried to run it at least once a week for a few minutes, but that didn't always happen and the starter would function but I wouldn't get the engine turned over. If I squirted some starter fluid into the air intake, it would turn over. Last week I ran around 1/2 a small container of Sea Foam into the fuel tank, and the scooter ran through it all. The engine died out. I added more gas (The high grade stuff, whatever the 93 octane gas is at a normal gas station) and then took it out for a warmup ride. At first, I couldn't move the throttle past around 1/4 or 1/3rd open without the engine really slowing down. I don't think I broke 20mph. After a few laps around the block it started to return to normal throttle operation and I was able to get to normal speed. I ran an errand and came right home. The next day I smelled gas in the garage where I keep it. There was yellow fluid under the scooter on the garage floor. I cleaned the fluid up with degreaser and ran my hands under the source to see if I could find more liquid. I don't think I found much other than the normal gunk that's on the underside of a scooter. A day or so later the gas smell was back. This time the fluid was brownish, and there wasn't as much of it. I have yet to head back and clean it up. As far as I can recall the oil tank is close to full; I topped it off before the end of last season. I turned the key and switched on the electrical; the oil light turned red and shut off, but it always does that. The gas tank is just shy of half full. Is this just something coming out of the carb after warming it up after all that non-use? What should I do to troubleshoot further if it's something a non-mechanic can fix with a socket wrench and other household tools?
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Feb 26, 2018 18:01
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It might be that the float valve is kind of sticking, from some varnished-up gunk. In the carburetor bowl, there's a float attached to a lever. The lever is connected to a little brass plunger that's pointing up. As gas fills up the carb bowl, the float rises, making the level move upward and pressing the little brass plunger into an orifice. This orifice is where gas enters the carb. So, as the bowl fills, the float eventually stops it from overfilling. If there were some kind of gunk impeding the float's travel or the little brass plunger from seating correctly, gas could still enter the carb even when full, making gas leak out of the overflow tube. The easy way to fix this is to just turn your fuel valve off, on the gas tank. If you have one there on the Buddy.
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Feb 26, 2018 21:05
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Slide Hammer posted:It might be that the float valve is kind of sticking, from some varnished-up gunk. In the carburetor bowl, there's a float attached to a lever. The lever is connected to a little brass plunger that's pointing up. As gas fills up the carb bowl, the float rises, making the level move upward and pressing the little brass plunger into an orifice. This orifice is where gas enters the carb. So, as the bowl fills, the float eventually stops it from overfilling. I'm guessing I couldn't just start it and run it for X amount of time? I just had it going for around 20 minutes idling. So far no leak but I only observed the leak after it was sitting for a day or three. FWIW the leak appears to be coming from the bottom of the transmission cover.
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Feb 27, 2018 00:57
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e. wrong thread
ant mouth fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Feb 28, 2018 |
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Feb 28, 2018 04:33
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The carburetor sits on the same side of the engine as the transmission cover on the Buddy 50 so it's likely overflow that you're seeing which can be caused by old fuel gumming up the internals. These are not complicated machines but it's best not to attempt taking it apart if you're unsure since at least it's rideable now. The carburetor will need to be taken apart to be cleaned since varnish sticks to the metal and isn't guaranteed to dilute simply from exposure to fresh gasoline and Sea Foam.
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Mar 4, 2018 03:56
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I ended up selling the Buddy, leak and all, for a pretty decent price, which went to fund a 2010 Elite 110 with around 3900 miles. Literally penny for penny, $900 realized from the sale of the Buddy for a $900 Elite 110. Not a bad upgrade, especially considering my modular helmet fit perfectly in the Elite under the seat. Now the hunt begins for a kickstand. Apparently someone made one at some point but it's out of stock everywhere - does anyone know of a place where I could get some kind of kickstand/side stand? Edit: apparently it's standard for the Elite 110 in Japan, where it bears the name Lead 110. It exists as an OEM part, and its Honda part # is 08M70GFMC60. Edit 2: I ended up finding one on Yahoo Japan Auctions, by way of Buyee, which will handle trans-shipment and stuff for a slight extra fee. It didn't show up via English search so use the search terms リード110 サイドスタンド on https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/, or https://buyee.jp/yahoo/auction?lang=en. I lucked out, found one used with a buyout price of $30ish, they seem to go for around $45ish equivalent. If you'd prefer trying on a normal retail site without Buyee as a middleman, https://www.parts-sale.jp/ was the first site I found that claims to have it in stock. I shot them an email to find out if they actually do have it, and if so, how much US shipping could cost, and will update on retrieval. Other options that might actually be available: https://japan.webike.net/products/22640901.html https://japan.webike.net/products/23109257.html Now I gotta see if there's a gloss black trunk that can replace the current one, I want me some color-matching trunks! MJP fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Mar 9, 2018 |
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Mar 9, 2018 14:47
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Why does the elite 110 not have a kickstand? How do you park it?
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Mar 12, 2018 02:46
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I've had a few scooters that only had a centre stand. I kinda preferred it, it was always the first thing to scrape on my old DD50.
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Mar 12, 2018 08:29
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Oh, center stand only, I guess I didn’t think of that.
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Mar 12, 2018 12:28
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Yeah, it carries over the CH80's lack of side stand. Buyee received the stand in Japan and I paid for trans-shipment. I was able to identify where on the scoot the stand goes, now I gotta figure out how to remove it when the side stand arrives. Now I get to find out how to sand the trunk smooth enough to paint it to match the finish of the plastics. I'm not sure if it's going to end up with just a lot of sanding, or a lot of filler primer and sanding between coats. I will have a color-matched trunk or die trying. Also, here's a weird question. Is it possible to get a scooter key shortened? I carry my keys with my car keys on a carabiner, and the Elite 110 key is REALLY long. I'd just go to a locksmith but if possible I was hoping to keep the anti-theft circle thingy on the same key. 
MJP fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Mar 12, 2018 |
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Mar 12, 2018 15:13
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MJP posted:I was able to identify where on the scoot the stand goes, now I gotta figure out how to remove it when the side stand arrives. How to remove what? Don't remove the center stand if that's what you mean. Side stands are the poo poo and super convenient but you're going to need the center stand at times.
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Mar 12, 2018 18:40
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Yes. It owns to have both. My Elite 250 has both and it’s great to be able to choose
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Mar 12, 2018 21:26
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n.. posted:How to remove what? Don't remove the center stand if that's what you mean. Side stands are the poo poo and super convenient but you're going to need the center stand at times. My bad. I meant where the side stand goes. For whatever reason it's included on the Lead 110 for Japan and probably elsewhere, but the Elite 110 in the US doesn't get the side stand, just the center stand. Rest assured, I intend to keep the center stand where it is. What I gotta remove, preferably correctly, is a hard rubber or plastic cover where the side stand will screw into the frame.
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Mar 12, 2018 21:55
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MJP posted:Yeah, it carries over the CH80's lack of side stand. Buyee received the stand in Japan and I paid for trans-shipment. I was able to identify where on the scoot the stand goes, now I gotta figure out how to remove it when the side stand arrives. Are you gonna worry about sidestand wiring? Every modern scooter I've seen with a factory sidestand has a cutoff switch that keeps you from loving yourself up riding away with the sidestand down. You can totally find gloss black top cases. Here's one and another and that's just one vendor. It would not be possible to have a shorter key without a shorter ignition cylinder, and I think you're creating a whole lot of headache for yourself instead of just carrying your keys differently. I keep my house, car, and scooter keys all separate - the house keys come with me always but I don't always need a vehicle key. And if you're in your car, why do you need your scooter key?
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Mar 13, 2018 07:34
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:Are you gonna worry about sidestand wiring? Every modern scooter I've seen with a factory sidestand has a cutoff switch that keeps you from loving yourself up riding away with the sidestand down. I can live without sidestand wiring. My previous Buddy 50 had no such feature and I never rode away with the stand down. After having a CH80 with only a center stand, the side stand on the Buddy was like paradise. That Soft Italia case is probably more expensive than taking the trunk to a paint and body shop and having them do the job, and the K-Max case is still that matte lower half. I know I'm being picky, I just really like the Vespa-ish look of a trunk fully color-matched. As to the keys, I like having them all in one place if at all possible. I keep my grocery discount fobs, house key, and other stuff with the scooter if I want to go run errands on it once it's warm. I'm sure I could set the scooter keys aside for now and move the house key back until it's scoot season again, but 
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Mar 13, 2018 16:56
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The wiring isn't always necessary. Some kickstands (like the one on my vespa) are spring loaded and will automatically snap up when you right the scoot, so it's impossible to ride with it down.
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Mar 13, 2018 18:45
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Yeah, there's a big thick spring on the NHX110 stand I ordered, so I have great faith in its ability to spring backward if I have a massive brain fart.
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Mar 13, 2018 19:12
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Sorry for double posting but this kinda merits a fresh post. The week before last, I test rode and bought the Elite 110. During the test ride, the mirrors worked fine - they were firmly screwed into the handlebars and the mirrors themselves had enough play for me to adjust them. It was delivered last week. I was away at the time. I'm not sure if something happened en route, but before I took it out today I noticed that the right-hand mirror was loose at the base where it goes into the handlebar. I tightened it as best I could and thought I had it in there, but after a block or two, the entire mirror arm came loose, causing the mirror to dangle. I pulled over, tried to adjust it, and had no luck, so I turned back. According to this screenshot from the service manual, it's just a matter of unscrewing the adapters and the mirrors, then screwing them back into place:  For the life of me, I can't get the mirror to line up. Here's what it looks like once I have the mirror and adapter threaded in firmly, using a small monkey wrench to secure the adapter nut:  Here's a video clarifying what it looks like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOzyCy8w0LI There's a nut that I can adjust on the bolt that goes into the adapter, but it just doesn't seem to want to tighten. Either that or my monkey wrench is too big to get in there and tighten it well enough. Is it just a case of futzing with the nut? Should I maybe get a couple of washers or spacers to play with and see if tightening the bolt onto the washers allows me to get it pointing backwards again? The owner said he never had to go through this, so it's entirely possible the guy who transported it might have done something to it, and hopefully it doesn't come out that way. The nut on the left mirror, which is fine, has a millimeter or two's gap from the base of the mirror stem, while the nut on the right one goes right up to the stem. I'm thinking that's the case, and that I'll probably have to order a replacement. $20ish, which isn't the end of everything, but I was hopeful that I could just get some washers, tighten them in place, and trial-and-error my way into a fix.
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Mar 17, 2018 21:11
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Unless there's a part missing you shouldn't need washers. You might have the mirror screwed in too far/not far enough, try loosening/tightening it a turn or two and then adjusting the nut. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRAZPm0ZnQg open24hours fucked around with this message at 10:10 on Mar 19, 2018 |
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Mar 18, 2018 05:55
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In the end I think I fixed it. I'm not sure how but I managed to get it back to tight. It seems like the top nut doesn't really like to tighten past the point where turning it unscrews the adapter. Hey, I'll take it. Meanwhile, after experiencing a fuel-injected scooter I don't think I can ever go back to carbureted. The Elite 110 is so peppy and responsive. I wanna give this beauty a bath, though. Can I get away with just warm soapy water and a good quality car-washing sponge or should I actually spring for a car-wash product?
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Mar 18, 2018 12:42
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You can wash bikes?
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Mar 18, 2018 13:45
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Ride around in the rain. Pop a wheelie to get the underside 
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Mar 18, 2018 20:17
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Alternatively, you can ride through a fresh puddle at speed.
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Mar 19, 2018 17:27
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MJP posted:In the end I think I fixed it. I'm not sure how but I managed to get it back to tight. It seems like the top nut doesn't really like to tighten past the point where turning it unscrews the adapter. Pretty sure some soaps will take off clear coat, so just buy a cheap thing of actual car wash soap. But mostly: Jim Silly-Balls posted:You can wash bikes?
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Mar 23, 2018 01:09
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We JDM now 
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Mar 29, 2018 01:54
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I need a rough-cut
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Apr 1, 2018 03:18
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Haven't post a lot but I am finally working on getting this thing PX125/P200 frame/motor Vespa ready for Spring and hopefully a Rally in SF this summer. First up are controls and front brake assembly. The front disk kit has never been serviced and this frame setup has been sitting for about 7 years without use. The engine is one I have had for about 10 years and 3 rebuilds and is in decent shape. I lost he flywheel side oil seal a while back and rebuilt and refurbished it. Just need a new fuel line spark plug and some oil and it should be ready to roll! I will post some updates and I work on it. I want to pick up a late model foam P200 seat and a smallish expansion chamber thats not too peaky. I still haven't decided what I want to do with the Carb as far as upgrades go, I want to turn it into a solo commuter/beater I can rip around the SF bay area on and not worry about. The engine has a Malossi 210 kit with a milled head Cosa clutch and a lightened PK flywheel so I should be well on my way. 
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Apr 3, 2018 22:41
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Hell yeah. Reminds me that I've gotta get my Stella out of winter slumber, I miss the 2-stroke.
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Apr 4, 2018 07:11
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Gay Nudist Dad posted:Hell yeah. Reminds me that I've gotta get my Stella out of winter slumber, I miss the 2-stroke. I have a severe lack of bike personality by only riding my Yamaha FZ1. Its an incredible machine but that two stroke charm, especially with an aggressive powerband is what I neeeeed.
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Apr 4, 2018 20:46
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My P200 exerpienced a motor seizure at 50mph on the 99 viaduct in Seattle last Saturday. Was cruising along just fine when the engine sounded like it ran out of gas and then the rear wheel just locked up. I have no idea how I managed to keep it upright, let alone not get creamed by the cars and trucks on that road. Seems to be a soft seizure, as I can still kick the starter and the engine putters when I push it around in gear. Internet says I should replace spark and give it a few kicks before taking it to the shop. Really hoping that thing isn't toast, but mostly just amazed that I didn't put it down and it fishtailed, rubber screaming. I didn't even know that a seizure was something that scooters did. ATGATT, lads.
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Apr 4, 2018 21:29
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Kebbins posted:My P200 exerpienced a motor seizure at 50mph on the 99 viaduct in Seattle last Saturday. Was cruising along just fine when the engine sounded like it ran out of gas and then the rear wheel just locked up. I have no idea how I managed to keep it upright, let alone not get creamed by the cars and trucks on that road. With the stock barrel I am guessing you are OK since its spinning free. If its not that bad you can hone the barrel with a drill on the rough spot replace the rings and go with it. You can replace the cylinder on a P series without pulling the entire thing apart you just need to take the cooling shroud off and pull the head. Always a good time spend a bunch of money and start upgrading! I cant imagine a used P200 barrel from the shop you take it to will be that bad either. I have been on the back of a P200 when it seized but we were only going about 45mph. Lots of fun though! bobbert fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Apr 4, 2018 |
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Apr 4, 2018 22:23
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I've experienced a soft seizure on a Bajaj while riding, and on my race bike, and it's surprising how little damage can be done by it. You might not need to fix anything on it. Except whatever caused the seizure of course.
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Apr 5, 2018 01:01
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Having the worst loving time tuning my Puch. I'm 95% sure my timing is off, but I won't have the cash to order a piston stop till next week. It runs like garbage when it does at all, and backfires coming back down to idle. I'm sure the carb isn't set right, either. Honestly an improvement from "not firing at all" last year, though.
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Apr 16, 2018 22:27
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Seattle Scooter Pals, I'm looking to pick something up but I have zero experience with what people are asking around here and could use some pricing advice. I see a bunch of Vinos for like 1200 but then Scoot About is selling a Buddy 125 for 1400 which doesn't seem bad for something serviced by an actual shop. How delusional are people around here as far as what they expect to sell for? Then there is this guy which seems like a really really bad idea https://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/mcy/d/2004-yamaha-vino-scooter/6561528133.html
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Apr 18, 2018 22:59
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Hi Seattle scooter friend! You should buy the Elite 125 in Puyallup on CL right now for $600 and take it to a shop to get running. Then we can be Elite bros! Or maybe just buy my Elite 125 for $900? I'm kind of on the fence over parting with it until I have a replacement lined up. I do think people are a little delusional though. Someone in Kirkland ripped all the body parts off an Elite trying to make it "look like a Ruckus" as has been trying to sell the carcass on CL for $1400 for a few months. Really nicely-priced scoots pop up all the time south of Seattle, and I need to get my passport squared away because there is some GREAT stuff for cheap in Vancouver because of the US/CA dollar comparison.
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Apr 21, 2018 04:44
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:Seattle Scooter Pals, I'm looking to pick something up but I have zero experience with what people are asking around here and could use some pricing advice. I see a bunch of Vinos for like 1200 but then Scoot About is selling a Buddy 125 for 1400 which doesn't seem bad for something serviced by an actual shop. How delusional are people around here as far as what they expect to sell for? Then there is this guy which seems like a really really bad idea https://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/mcy/d/2004-yamaha-vino-scooter/6561528133.html I wouldn't say "serviced by Scoot About" is a selling point. I don't think Seattle prices are crazy but it is spring so asking prices might be inflated. Portland CL tends to have more interesting stuff and better prices, but for common bikes, by the time you've picked it up or shipped it the cost difference probably goes away. Vancouver has what appear to be good deals but I have no idea what importing a motor vehicle is like. I assume not easy. Vino 125s were available for under $1k routinely for a while. I sold my '07 with ~4500 miles in '11 for $1400, so $1200 for one now seems high to me. The couple on CL now both have super low mileage and, from the photos, still have the stock tires. They will need to be replaced. The IRCs were not good in 2006 and are definitely not good after drying out for a dozen years, so consider that a $200 haggle point. In fact they have such low mileage they might need fresh oil and gas and maybe a pretty full going over. The main thing I notice with Seattle used scooter prices is that 50ccs are way overvalued because of the licensing laws requiring a motorcycle endorsement for anything over 50. It means that 50cc scooters are going for more than same make/year/condition 125-150s which is obviously stupid.
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Apr 21, 2018 05:29
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