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goodness posted:First successful zenithal priming attempt Agreed with bonds0097. This looks great with nice smooth transitions, but don't be afraid to push it a bit more. When you put multiple layers over the top the effect gets diminished.
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Mar 17, 2018 03:46
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Philthy posted:I've used Liquitex matt right out of the bottle without any thinner with a .33 tip. Gave this a go, worked fine. For those that come after it changes the texture of the cardboard but it's not bad. Need to.see if it affects wear at all. berzerkmonkey posted:Might want to try ModPodge - it's the stuff you can put on completed puzzles. Dries rock hard and (I think) it's waterproof. You'll have to brush it on, but it will seal the poo poo out of your components. I might have to give this a go sometime - would be fun with skull in particular as the pieces are coasters. Need to check it if is waterproof.
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Mar 17, 2018 07:11
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bonds0097 posted:I personally prefer more contrast when zenithal priming. Do you have a picture of a good one in your eyes? I may have done too much grey in the middle phase. Doesn’t help the camera I’m using sucks. Now that I’ve setup a painting booth I need to do a photo booth goodness fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Mar 17, 2018 |
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Mar 17, 2018 16:38
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X-posting from 40k my shiny boys and girls:     
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Mar 17, 2018 17:57
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How feasible is this zenithal priming business on small figures, considering I only have spray cans of black and white?
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Mar 17, 2018 20:27
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:X-posting from 40k my shiny boys and girls: Is that a standard or a narrow Statuesque?
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Mar 17, 2018 20:30
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Schadenboner posted:Is that a standard or a narrow Statuesque? Standard heroic scale.
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Mar 17, 2018 22:08
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Tardigrade posted:How feasible is this zenithal priming business on small figures, considering I only have spray cans of black and white? How small? My only concern is that with spray cans you are applying a lot of paint so would want to make sure not to clog detail.
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Mar 17, 2018 22:13
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For shades, how do the colored shades compare to using Agrax? I got the VGC Turquoise to use as the base armor (with some Moon Yellow and a to be found Red for sores/highlights)
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Mar 18, 2018 00:36
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Tardigrade posted:How feasible is this zenithal priming business on small figures, considering I only have spray cans of black and white? With an airbrush, it is a great way to knock out a ton of depth really fast on troops. With rattlecans? Unless you are a graffiti savant who can control every nuance of paint flow from the can, I would hard pass on the zenithol. Buuuut it is doable if you can control your bursts. Kilazar fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Mar 18, 2018 |
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Mar 18, 2018 04:09
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Kilazar posted:With an airbrush, it is a great way to knock out a ton of depth really fast on troops. Zenithal+Wash for 15mm and under troops? Highlight some details after?
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Mar 18, 2018 04:42
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goodness posted:Zenithal+Wash for 15mm and under troops? Highlight some details after? Can't hurt to try on a test model. You can always strip it. If I was working in 15mm I would do exactly that with an airbrush for the zenithol. I have only worked with 25 and up. And I am no graffiti savant. So I moved to airbrush. I would totally zenithol 15mm with an airbrush  . I have ratcanned the old fire warrior sculpt. It came out grainy and I would not do it again. They were passable for TT quality, but lost just enough detail that I dont feel they could be improved. So I gave them to a new player that was just starting up a couple years ago. Also, I am no pro. There are faaaaar better people in here for these questions. Not even sure why I initially answered other than I was feeling a bit big headed after making such amazing (to me) progress and skill increase with my Treelord. Kilazar fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Mar 18, 2018 |
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Mar 18, 2018 04:52
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Kilazar posted:With an airbrush, it is a great way to knock out a ton of depth really fast on troops. Yeah it’s a Start Collecting box, biggest thing is the carnosaur and smallest is the gaggle of saurus warriors. I’m no pro with rattlecans (or anything else) and have never touched an airbrush in my life. 
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Mar 18, 2018 05:38
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Tardigrade posted:Yeah it’s a Start Collecting box, biggest thing is the carnosaur and smallest is the gaggle of saurus warriors. I’m no pro with rattlecans (or anything else) and have never touched an airbrush in my life. If you have the means, I would suggest picking up an airbrush. Priming is a real good starting point to learn on. And then weather doesn't dictate when you can prime.
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Mar 18, 2018 05:42
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Tardigrade posted:Yeah it’s a Start Collecting box, biggest thing is the carnosaur and smallest is the gaggle of saurus warriors. I’m no pro with rattlecans (or anything else) and have never touched an airbrush in my life. You can definitely do it with spray for that scale, just be careful to apply light coats by moving the can quickly over the minis. Someone made a zenithal tutorial with spray cans here (though I would only do steps 1 and 2.) http://taleofpainters.blogspot.com/2017/11/tutorial-zenithal-basecoating.html
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Mar 18, 2018 06:38
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    Pretty happy with this guy, as a test. Remembering that I had Gauss Blaster Green edge and using it on the gauss coils really helped. I did a layer of Testors Dullcote, then two layers of Testors gloss varnish, then three layers of Testors Dullcote. I saw someone on here saying they did a layer of krylon matte, then two gloss, then three dullcote, but I don't have any Krylon matt so I figured dullcote would do. It... kinda doesn't seem to have brought the sheen down by much? I'm not sure if that means the dullcote has gone off, or I didn't shake it enough, or just because when you've got a layer of gloss primer and then Vallejo Metal Color gloss metallic paints down in two or three layers and then a layer of Vallejo gloss metal varnish under your washes, there's only so much dullcote will do. In any case the end result works really well and will hopefully be hella scratch-resistant.
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Mar 19, 2018 04:34
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Crosspost from the 40K thread: So I've been trialling a new process for painting. Specifically, when I finish a model I don't paint in the base until I've done the entire army, at which point I do 'em all at once. It means that I don't get a steady flow of pictures but it does mean that when it's done I can drop my entire completed, cohesive army all at once. I did all this between December and today. The Lore for these guys is sourced from the book Unremembered Empire in the Horus Heresy. In it, some rando Alpha Legion tactical squad dresses as Ultramarines, show up in Ultramar and are like 'hey we're Calth veterans, can we talk to Gulliman?'. Somehow everyone who's job it is to provide security for the Primarch between them and Bobby G totally fails to ding them and they just walk up to Roboute, fully armed, fully armoured, and unload their boltguns into him. Not like a full Alpharius op with distractions and backup and as a piece in a larger plan; they're totally alone and unsupported. But they still managed to shoot up Gulliman before two other Primarchs save his rear end. Fuckin' legend. The dude who ran that squad is my Daemon Prince, and these guys are his warband: The Eight Scribes Their primary skill is that they have a profound grasp of paperwork and Imperial standard operating procedure - which is probably really rare amongst Chaos warbands who spend all their time murderfucking each other to death. They're all very boring, staid individuals who will wait patiently in line, fill in all the forms required, keep up to date with Administratum politics, etc. Their warships just patiently cruise up to checkpoints, dock properly, and only then do they walk on board and kill everyone in a very polite and regular way. In between ops they go to great lengths to shove all their guts back into their bodies, clean up and shine their armour plates to parade ground standard, and from a distance they look like a perfectly ordinary wall of blue, white and gold covered in skulls. Their greatest relic is a vial of Gulliman's blood that writhes in the grip of one of Nurgle's favourite plagues. When a sample is taken from this holy blood and implanted in an Ultramarine progenoid gland it allows a Scribe's Omophagea to digest information from Gulliman's mind. Previously this was just used for the Scribes to get tactical insight into how Gulliman might have planned a campaign, which grew increasingly less useful as time shifted tactics, doctrine and technology. Now that Gulliman is awake, however, the Scribes have a vector that allows them to read the mind of the Imperial Regent directly. Naturally, Alpharius is keen to use this knowledge to take another shot at the big blue. The Eight Scribes are ghosting Gulliman's Indominus Crusade, and no matter how many spy cells they burn out the Ultramarines never get any closer to closing off the true fount of the Scribes' knowledge. Design Principles: - Line troops dress as Ultramarines in all particulars. Red helmets for squad leaders, white helmets for special weapons guys. - Vehicles sufficiently normal looking, Land Raiders, Predators etc, are also done up in the Ultramarine style. - Anybody making unconventional entrances, or otherwise too hosed-up and mutated to be concealed, wear traditional Alpha Legion cerulean. - Line troops adding Alpha Legion iconography or colours to their armour is a violation of OpSec and discouraged by Alpharius, but the Alpha Legion's curse has always been arrogance so it does still happen. - Worship Nurgle as the ultimate infiltrator. - Endgame is to assassinate and eat Gulliman, impersonate him, and drive the Imperium off a cliff. Line Infantry:        Specialists:   Terminators:     Support Vehicles:   Daemon Prince: 
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Mar 19, 2018 06:32
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This might come off as a dumb question but, using that Necron pic above as an example. That's basically just paper clips stuck up into two holes drilled with a vise and the other ends down into some cork right?
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Mar 19, 2018 06:37
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Arthil posted:This might come off as a dumb question but, using that Necron pic above as an example. Yes, that's exactly what it is. These corks, specifically -- wine corks are narrow and tend to fall over; these let me mount a single model as multiple assemblies and then, like, pick it up and move it around and put it down as one thing and store it on a shelf and not have to worry about dealing with keeping multiple separated fiddly bits together.
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Mar 19, 2018 06:46
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God, bizarro Duncan gives lefties such a bad rap. Every time I watch a video with him in it he looks like he's making a pbj instead of painting mans
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Mar 19, 2018 08:54
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KING OV HELL posted:God, bizarro Duncan gives lefties such a bad rap. Every time I watch a video with him in it he looks like he's making a pbj instead of painting mans https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hx9TO4Tao8
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Mar 19, 2018 12:43
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Feel pretty close to finished on two of my first ever minis. First was a Dragonborn Paladin/Fighter with WAY TOO MUCH GOING ON that made me take forever with it, and second was an Umber Hulk that was a breath of fresh air after the previous. Painted using Vallejo basic and game color, with a cheap set of brushes from Michaels.        I already see more spots on the Dragonborn I'm going to have to fix and am not 100% satisfied with the head on the Umber Hulk, and need to finish the base color on the Umber Hulk. Was thinking a grey/black rock base because of the Underdark but no idea. Reference pic for the Umber Hulk was  Doing this was fun, more are coming, I just want to step up the quality compared to some of the master pieces I see here, 1 mini at a time. Next up should be a Displacer Beast, with some Kobolds and a Fire Giant after that. CDW fucked around with this message at 12:50 on Mar 19, 2018 |
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Mar 19, 2018 12:47
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If I'm casting a piece that is in two pieces and hollow normally, is it better to cast it that way or fill it in and cast them as two filled pieces to make a solid block? Leaning towards filled in for more material to work with, just not sure if there's something I haven't considered.
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Mar 19, 2018 12:58
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bird food bathtub posted:If I'm casting a piece that is in two pieces and hollow normally, is it better to cast it that way or fill it in and cast them as two filled pieces to make a solid block? Leaning towards filled in for more material to work with, just not sure if there's something I haven't considered. A lot will depend on what casting method you are using? Can you give more details? And if possible a picture of the parts in question?
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Mar 19, 2018 14:25
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Has anyone tried the Vallejo acrylic artist fluid colors for airbrushing? I grabbed a few but was only able to try one before I broke a bunch of parts in my brush.
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Mar 19, 2018 14:42
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No shadows. Shadows  I just got a light box and need some direction for good photography! Which image is better? The image with the shadows still present, had the lights at 45 degree angles to the model so the main part of the light was not being filtered through the white screens. The image without shadows had the lights to the side being filtered through the white screens, then a third light directly on the model from the front. Which one is more proper for showing off a mini? I know for product photography you want 0 shadows. But is that also the case for mini photography? If there is a lighting/light box tutorial for mini photography I missed, feel free to point me to it! Kilazar fucked around with this message at 16:32 on Mar 19, 2018 |
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Mar 19, 2018 16:25
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Indolent Bastard posted:A lot will depend on what casting method you are using? Can you give more details? And if possible a picture of the parts in question? Following a lot of the methods outlined in the OP and it's links there to elsewhere in this thread. Doing two part silicon molding, pouring two part polyurethane into it. So far all I've done is casting my own bases, looking at expanding and trying to figure out problems in advance so no specific part I'm working on at the moment. For the record, from last time it came up, mixing in the iron powder mostly worked but I chose iron oxide powder since it's also used as a dye and blackened the polyurethane without need for dye. Enough powder to make it strongly magnetic made it really rubbery. While amusing, I eventually settled on some small ball bearings in my bases. They provide for magnetic storage, weighted bases, and mostly avoid the mechanical weakness I was trying to avoid from putting metal discs across the plane of the bases. Could probably try normal iron filings like you find for showing magnetic lines but this works well enough.
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Mar 19, 2018 17:35
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Cthulhu Dreams posted:I might have to give this a go sometime - would be fun with skull in particular as the pieces are coasters. Need to check it if is waterproof.
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Mar 19, 2018 19:37
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Kilazar posted:No shadows. Your shot without shadows is more readable, but too dark. I think the direct light shows the model better. Try to get one light shining through the screen directly onto the model from 45 in front, and one light through the screen onto the model from the opposite side, placed slightly further away so its a bit darker. You may need to bump your exposure up. This should lead you to have an image with some shadows and definition, but those shadows are soft enough to not be distracting. If the background is covered in shadows just shine a light on it from behind the model, you can use a card to block that light from hitting the model.
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Mar 19, 2018 19:50
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Over the week-end I practiced airbrushing a bit using the advice I received here (use thinner instead of water, spray pure thinner from time to time to avoid clogging, trying various pressure levels) and it worked a charm. After some messing around with "munitorum containers" I felt confident enough to basecoat 20 primaris in an hour. One of them is a little oversprayed, the rest has nice smooth basecoats. Thanks to everyone who shared their experience, I'm very pleased with how fast this was
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Mar 19, 2018 19:51
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Booley posted:Your shot without shadows is more readable, but too dark. I think the direct light shows the model better. Try to get one light shining through the screen directly onto the model from 45 in front, and one light through the screen onto the model from the opposite side, placed slightly further away so its a bit darker. You may need to bump your exposure up. This should lead you to have an image with some shadows and definition, but those shadows are soft enough to not be distracting. If the background is covered in shadows just shine a light on it from behind the model, you can use a card to block that light from hitting the model. Thanks for the input. Light diffusion question. Since the light is being diffused by the side screens does angle of the lamp actually matter? If yes, disregard the next question, Or are you wanting me to get a 45 angle where a (lets say left one) lamp is hitting the screen and hitting the model at the same time (basically pointing the lamp at the front corner of the box?).
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Mar 19, 2018 20:05
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Kilazar posted:Thanks for the input. Yes, angle of light hitting the screen does matter, and also yes your second statement is roughly correct. I'll draw you a picture when I'm home. I should really buy a light box so I can do a good tutorial
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Mar 19, 2018 20:09
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Booley posted:Yes, angle of light hitting the screen does matter, and also yes your second statement is roughly correct. I'll draw you a picture when I'm home. I should really buy a light box so I can do a good tutorial Oooh ok thanks! I was assuming diffusion angle didnt matter in my no shadow shot. I think I can fix my shots now. Will test tonight! I bet a good tutorial would be appreciated by more than me. I looked up vids on youtube, and no one (that I found) goes into light positioning that well. Kilazar fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Mar 19, 2018 |
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Mar 19, 2018 20:20
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New book day.   
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Mar 19, 2018 23:00
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crossposting for advice Made some progress on my first dude in years. I need some advice on what to do the fabrics. The tentacles/mutated flesh I was going to do purple or red, and a sickly green/yellow leaking out of the holes in the armor/plasma   
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Mar 19, 2018 23:28
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Cat Face Joe posted:Has anyone tried the Vallejo acrylic artist fluid colors for airbrushing? I grabbed a few but was only able to try one before I broke a bunch of parts in my brush. I have not. I HAVE used Golden high flow acrylics, bought at blick, and they have done really well for me. If I don't get my airbrush too close for the pressure I'm using, they go straight through the airbrush without too much thinning and tweaking, and stick very well and stay where I put them. I've looked at the vallejo ones, but the sticker shock for some of the colors kinda put me off that when I already have plenty of good paints. Felime fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Mar 20, 2018 |
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Mar 20, 2018 02:18
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Booley posted:Yes, angle of light hitting the screen does matter, and also yes your second statement is roughly correct. I'll draw you a picture when I'm home. I should really buy a light box so I can do a good tutorial Here is my setup   Is this picture any better than the last two? I am using the angles in the above pictures. Trying to work out the way you said. I moved him back further into the box. Originally I hade him in center.  Here is another. Only difference is I set my phone to "sunny" since these are all day lamps. Just to see if maybe that would help. I am using a pixel 2 xl. Not a dslr or anything fancy. 
Kilazar fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Mar 20, 2018 |
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Mar 20, 2018 03:10
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Kilazar posted:Here is my setup This is a sexy as gently caress ...evil ent dude (?).
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Mar 20, 2018 03:50
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Kilazar posted:Here is my setup Yes, that one does look better. I think you could make it even a little better still by pulling your front light and right side light a bit further away so you get a little more directionality. I don't know what your phone is doing with white balance but it turned it blue.
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Mar 20, 2018 03:54
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Finished up Misaki finally. First time I tried using the Vallejo water effects. It's not as easy as it looks trying to get it to stay on a base like this.   
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Mar 20, 2018 04:03
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