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Larrymer posted:Sounds like a bad tune or a leak. Hopefully you can get it sorted. Definitely not. This is the guy with the best rep in the Volvo community. And he did the final tune on my C70, best of any I've run. Seminal Flu posted:Have you run it after playing with the bypass valve? That was my first thought, maybe not a defective spring or assembly, but defective sealing mechanism? Yeah, and I've pulled vacuum and put pressure on the bypass valve, it pops open under vacuum and does not leak under either one. The only possible thing there could be a leaking main o-ring seal, which looked fine to me when I opened it up. There's a groove in the valve housing for the o-ring and a matching groove in the compressor housing. When I took it apart both of its sealing o-rings stuck to the turbo housing so they did make good contact. I've ordered a new TCV just in case the one I have is sticky and/or worn out. Only $25 so cheap to test, and if that's not it then I have a spare when I do need it.
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Oct 23, 2017 16:37
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Sorry no 122 update, the V70R continues to frustrate. I've been through 4 more rounds of tuning since the last time I posted, and all the codes are killed but the performance has not changed. I heard a squeak like a boost leak so I wanted to dig in hard. Then I developed an oil leak. I found that I blew a PCV hose off the block under the manifold. I suspected the PCV manifold banjo bolt was replaced without the check valve. I had the same problem on my T5, originally they relied on small orifices to prevent boosting in the block, but in later years they added a check valve to this because it was possible to blow seals and hoses like I did now for the second time. It's a poorly documented update so lots of shops don't know to add it when doing a PCV job. So while I dug in to fix the oil leak, I pulled the bolt and was proven right. Then, since I had the intake apart to get under the manifold, I pressure tested the whole thing. I bought this plug off Amazon and it is perfect for the throttle body hose:   With that in place, and a rubber plug in the turbo end, I pressurized my entire intake and it held 10 psi without even bleeding down. So at least I now can say with 100% confidence I have no intake leaks, and also that I'm not pressurizing the block through the PCV system. And with that, I'm at my wits end with this car. It might be pretty fast but it feels slow. It feels slower than my C70. I have a friend with an XC90 automatic who put a stock 2.4 T5 motor in it (same as mine) with stock K24, and a different tune, and even though it's heavier it's equally fast to 60mph. We stay dead even. It looked like I might start pulling on him over that, but who knows. Very, very frustrating though. It runs good and is getting good mileage, so I wrote the tuner and basically told him that we're done until I can upgrade hardware again. It boosts to 26 psi and holds over 24 to redline, it just takes from 3000 to 4000 to get there, and like Tom Petty said, the waiting is the hardest part. Bottom line is that I think it's a slow spooling turbo, like maybe they trimmed the exhaust wheel or something. I'll take it to test and tune night when the drag strip opens next spring and see if it's faster than I think, but at this point I think it's just where it is. I might set everything back to stock and see how it runs, I might tinker and test with things like the wastegate or CBV again, but overall I'm just going to accept how it is for the time being. My next steps will be cosmetic: Lowering it, trying to find new roof trim strips so I can get rid of the roof rails, and getting it fully detailed. I also have little things like a rattle in the passenger door that I want to kill. It is still very pleasureable to drive, comfortable and tight. I just went a couple weeks without it while I had it torn down and it was incredible to drive again. In addition to that, I got a great holiday bonus from work so I bought all the stage 0 parts for my daughter's V50, so I'll attack that after the holidays and then I will have no excuses for not working on the 122.
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Dec 23, 2017 05:44
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Do you have the ability to log something like ignition timing when you're doing pulls?
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Dec 23, 2017 05:46
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Yes, full logs of every available engine parameter are what I send to the tuner every time he modifies it. Here's the list, it's quite comprehensive. And there's nothing odd in this data. According to the tuner, "it boosts a little slower than I'd expect" but otherwise is showing no red flags. Time (sec) Pedal Position(%) wped_w Engine Speed(RPM) nmot_w Vehicle Speed(MPH) vfzg_w Engaged Gear(Gear) gangi Boost Sensor Voltage(mBar) upvdm_w Actual Boost Pressure(mBar) pvd_w Desired Boost Pressure(mBar) plsol_w Actual Intake Manifold Boost Pressure(mBar) ps_w Desired Intake Manifold Boost Pressure(mBar) pssol_w Mass Air Flow(kg/h) mshfm_w Mass Air Flow Voltage(V) uhfm_w Boost Controller Duty Cycle(%) ldtvm Actual Load(%) rl_w Requested Load(%) rlsol_w Max Load(%) rlmax_w Corrected Max Load(%) rlmx_w Optimum Indicated Torque(%) miopt_w Desired Engine Torque(%) mifa_w Lambda Target Value(Lambda) lamsons_w Lambda Actual Value(Lambda) lamsoni_w Lambda BTS Value(Lambda) lambts_w Lambda LAMFAW Value(Lambda) lamfa_w Lambda Catalyst Value(Lambda) lamkh_w Lambda Catalyst Value(Lambda) lamsbg_w Lambda ATR Delta Value(Lambda) dlamatr_w Lambda Control (Fuel Trim)(%) fr_w Injection Time Bank 1(ms) tii_b1 Effective Injection Time Bank 1(ms) te_w FKKVS Axis Injection Time Bank 1(ms) tevfakge_w Ignition Angle Output(Deg BTDC) zwout Actual Ignition Angle(Deg BTDC) zwist Optimum Ignition Angle(Deg BTDC) zwopt Setpoint Ignition Angle(Deg BTDC) zwsol EGT(Deg C) tabgbts_w EGT Catalyst(Deg C) tikatm_w Throttle Angle(%) wdkba_w Battery Voltage(V) ub Intake Air Temperature(Deg C) tans Coolant Temperature(Deg C) tmotlin Ambient Air Pressure(mBar) pu Oil Temperature(Deg C) toel % Ignition Degredation (Knock Retard) for Component Protection(%) detazwbs Average Knock Retard(Deg BTDC) wkrm Cylinder 1 Knock Retard(Deg BTDC) dwkrz_0 Cylinder 2 Knock Retard(Deg BTDC) dwkrz_1 Cylinder 3 Knock Retard(Deg BTDC) dwkrz_2 Cylinder 4 Knock Retard(Deg BTDC) dwkrz_3 Cylinder 5 Knock Retard(Deg BTDC) dwkrz_4 BoostPID-I-Result(%) lditv_w BoostPID-I-Min(%) ldimn_w BoostPID-I-Max(%) ldimx_w BoostPID-D-Portion(%) ldrkd_w BoostPID-I-Portion(%) ldrki_w BoostPID-P-Portion(%) ldrkp_w CPU-Load(%) perffilt_w Desired Fuel Pressure(kPA) psollnd_w Actual Fuel Pressure(kPA) pistnd_w PCM Duty Cycle(%) tapcm_w Camshaft Overlap Percentage(Deg BTDC) wnwsrm_w Misfire Counter Cylinder 1(Misfires) fzabg_w_1 Misfire Counter Cylinder 2(Misfires) fzabg_w_2 Misfire Counter Cylinder 3(Misfires) fzabg_w_3 Misfire Counter Cylinder 4(Misfires) fzabg_w_4 Misfire Counter Cylinder 5(Misfires) fzabg_w_5 Also this post marks the 3 year anniversary of this thread. I really need to make something happen this year.
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Dec 23, 2017 05:55
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Slower than expected given your altitude as well?
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Dec 23, 2017 15:53
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Maybe not? But the race against the car 800 lb heavier with a smaller turbo and barely keeping up is kind of a giveaway. I don't care what's in an XC90 this car should walk it.
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Dec 23, 2017 16:41
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I really don't want to lose this thread to archives, but I have to do something, I'm really down in the dumps when it comes to motivation. I feel like I can't do anything right anymore. I have a bass-induced rattle in my V70R passenger door when the stereo is turned up and I've pulled the door panel 4 times trying to kill it with foam and dynamat and it keeps coming back. In other news my welder friend bought a spare motor off of me so it motivated me to spend some time in the garage. I finished cleaning an old 15G turbo I got from my dad so I can rebuild it and sell it for profit. It coked up and blew oil past the exhaust seal, just needed to be cleaned. Even though it's unrelated to any of my cars it's a nice easy job to net me some positive results. I'll do something on the 122 soon, I just have to. The weather is turning nice again which helps.
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Mar 20, 2018 15:27
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Keep your head up friend. Chasing rattles is the worst, but at least with this one you can chase down with just music playing rather than one that only comes up over certain bumps, etc.
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Mar 20, 2018 16:14
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Winter time is a fuckin' bummer for wrenching. Take some pictures of that turbo when you clean it up and throw them in here. Everybody loves grimy > shiny transformation pics. Does the wagon door rattle with the panel off? Can you push on it and make it go away?
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Mar 20, 2018 19:02
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Motivation is a hell of a thing. I have a hard time forcing myself out in the garage to work on the truck, partly because doing anything on it right now means I'm getting covered in grease.
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Mar 20, 2018 19:15
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I've been looking to get a family car. A wagon, most likely, but manual would be nice. Is there anything to be aware of with 10+ year old V70s? Is the turbo any less reliable than the NA? A few I've been looking at locally: https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/cto/d/2001-volvo-v70-xc-awd-wagon/6503475209.html https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/cto/d/2006-volvo-xc70-wagon-in/6535167593.html https://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/d/volvo-xc-70/6535540392.html https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/d/2003-volvo-xc70-awd-fully/6529466599.html
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Mar 20, 2018 20:03
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kimbo305 posted:I've been looking to get a family car. A wagon, most likely, but manual would be nice. Is there anything to be aware of with 10+ year old V70s? Is the turbo any less reliable than the NA? The one for $2499 with 88k miles seems almost too good to be true, def want to hear what Lloyd says about it. That would appear to be a great deal.
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Mar 20, 2018 20:52
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I read new muffler + rotors as having picked up a lot of rust, plus $6-800 for a timing belt.
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Mar 20, 2018 21:06
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kimbo305 posted:I read new muffler + rotors as having picked up a lot of rust, plus $6-800 for a timing belt. Ah I always forget about rust, not an issue down here in TN
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Mar 20, 2018 21:08
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Still possibly worth it, if the rest of the body is decent. Are the Volvo manuals any good? This one's a real beater, but the price is commensurate: https://worcester.craigslist.org/cto/d/2001-volvo-v70/6495542423.html e: by good, I mean not too sloppy in the shifter, not too weird of a clutch uptake. If it's light and vague like a Civic, that's fine. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Mar 20, 2018 |
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Mar 20, 2018 21:20
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With the vast majority of people not in the rust belt, kimbo, I would widen your net and try to find a more southern set of examples... I'm sure you could get a goon to scope out an example to see if it's worthwhile instead of sticking with Northern rust buckets.
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Mar 20, 2018 21:53
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Something I'd like to try next time I have a car to wrench on and feel lazy: put a computer in the garage so you can watch YouTube / surf the forums if you can't keep your attention. Then you don't have to go far to get a distraction for a few minutes. Maybe have a podcast or audiobook.
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Mar 20, 2018 22:18
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Beverly Cleavage posted:With the vast majority of people not in the rust belt, kimbo, I would widen your net and try to find a more southern set of examples... I'm sure you could get a goon to scope out an example to see if it's worthwhile instead of sticking with Northern rust buckets. I'll poke around. I guess at the $5k price point, it's harder to justify the logistics of flying out there and driving back. And yet I'd be willing to do that for a $7k Saab 9-5... Swedish heresy?
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Mar 20, 2018 22:28
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kimbo305 posted:I've been looking to get a family car. A wagon, most likely, but manual would be nice. Is there anything to be aware of with 10+ year old V70s? Is the turbo any less reliable than the NA? Wagons are tough to find in a manual, in general. Solid, especially with the turbo 5 cylinder. Drives kinda like a truck. Turning radius is seriously  Even tuned, they're not really fast, but certainly quick enough. Built-in booster seats are super cool.I'd have one in a minute.
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Mar 20, 2018 22:56
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kimbo305 posted:I'll poke around. I guess at the $5k price point, it's harder to justify the logistics of flying out there and driving back. And yet I'd be willing to do that for a $7k Saab 9-5... Swedish heresy? Look in nashville/Knoxville area and if you find one I’ll go get it and drive it up to you. Just get me a $80 JetBlue flight back to Nashville. I am for real, though it could be a few weeks after I got it before I could drive Up.
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Mar 20, 2018 22:57
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Seminal Flu posted:Wagons are tough to find in a manual, in general. Solid, especially with the turbo 5 cylinder. Drives kinda like a truck. Turning radius is seriously This cannot be understated. I didn't think something like that would ever bother me until I could barely swing into a parking spot. It's seriously worse than a full size truck. I don't know how they made it so loving bad, it's astonishing.
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Mar 21, 2018 01:41
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You just need to dive in faster, so the passive rear steer can kick in. 
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Mar 21, 2018 02:15
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I totally hear you on the motivation thing, winter time is a fucker and it's really hard to convince yourself to go out and do things when it's gloomy and cold all the time. I've also got a 15G turbo I need to rebuild as well so it'll be ready to put on my 245. You know, whenever I get around to that part of the project, after the C70 and the Celica have had some love. angryrobots posted:You just need to dive in faster, so the passive rear steer can kick in. That's only a P80 thing, the P2s did away with the delta-link.
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Mar 21, 2018 03:17
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kimbo305 posted:I'll poke around. I guess at the $5k price point, it's harder to justify the logistics of flying out there and driving back. And yet I'd be willing to do that for a $7k Saab 9-5... Swedish heresy? I would argue that at 5k, you’d get more out of it if you manage a cheap direct flight and one day drive....my take, but...I’ve never actually done it. I’m the poor bastard in a new minivan/family suv...
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Mar 21, 2018 03:19
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Larrymer posted:This cannot be understated. I didn't think something like that would ever bother me until I could barely swing into a parking spot. It's seriously worse than a full size truck. I don't know how they made it so loving bad, it's astonishing. I've had 2 V70s, both the original boxy pre-2000 models and they were great. I know the latter cars were completely new but are they really that bad? I'm seriously thinking about getting either an S80 or V70 of the 2006-2012 age.
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Mar 21, 2018 10:06
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cakesmith handyman posted:I've had 2 V70s, both the original boxy pre-2000 models and they were great. I know the latter cars were completely new but are they really that bad? I'm seriously thinking about getting either an S80 or V70 of the 2006-2012 age. Mine was an 06, and it was bad. Just something to note when test driving and trying them out so you're aware. See if you can handle it before doing a fly and buy. Otherwise I didn't have too many complaints about the car.
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Mar 21, 2018 11:19
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P80s (93-01 [04 for coupes]) had a turning circle of about 33ft, which is about average for a front wheel drive car. P2s (01-10?) have a turning circle of nearly 43ft. I’ve never heard why this is exactly, since both use essentially the exact same drivetrain. I surmise they changed the steering angles on the P2s in an attempt to increase ball joint life, because P80s tend to chew them up.
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Mar 21, 2018 13:01
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The purchase questions would be better in the general Volvo thread, but yeah that 01 manual is cheap because it's non turbo, that would be a very solid and reliable driver but not much fun at all. I just drove an 01 manual turbo for 8 years, and traded it in for an 06 manual AWD turbo. So I think they're great but they do have a few gremlins to watch out for, depending on year and mileage. The XCs are solid cars and the prices have recently dropped like a rock for some reason. General rule is to stay away from 01-02 automatics because the transmissions had issues. They were generally worked out by 03 but still if you drive one and anything is funky with the shifting, like flaring, clunking, or hard shifts, run away. If it drives smooth and clean then it should be ok. Personally I would shop for 05-07 as these were the final years of the P2 platform wagon and generally had all the issues worked out. Also a quick AWD test is to put a front wheel on gravel and see if you can spin it. If it spins the AWD is not working, and there are many expensive possibilities as to why. Only a few cheap ones. The reason for the bad turning circle is they kept putting fatter and fatter tires on them without changing anything else. So they just sacrificed turning circle. The n/a P2 wagons actually turn fairly tight like the older ones. 08-11 wagons are a new platform and from what I've heard, rock solid reliable. But I don't know much more about them than that.
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Mar 21, 2018 23:18
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LloydDobler posted:The purchase questions would be better in the general Volvo thread, but yeah that 01 manual is cheap because it's non turbo, that would be a very solid and reliable driver but not much fun at all.  Taking the rest over to that thread.
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Mar 22, 2018 00:37
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LloydDobler posted:The purchase questions would be better in the general Volvo thread, but Ask Lloyd is my Volvo search engine. And thanks, there was info there I wasn't aware of.
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Mar 22, 2018 11:33
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LloydDobler posted:I really don't want to lose this thread to archives, but I have to do something, I'm really down in the dumps when it comes to motivation. I feel like I can't do anything right anymore. I have a bass-induced rattle in my V70R passenger door when the stereo is turned up and I've pulled the door panel 4 times trying to kill it with foam and dynamat and it keeps coming back. I have an 04 V70R with a bass-induced rattle in the passenger side door, and I fixed it. It took me years of fiddling until I finally removed the door card, pumped the bass, and the noise stopped. For me, it was the power windows switch. It's fitted into the door card with tension clips and after 14 years the plastic was brittle and it lost tension. I could either find a replacement or buy new, so I did option three, which was buy a sheet of black craft foam at WalMart, cut it into strips and used a flat head screwdriver to gingerly shove it between the switch plate and the door card. The plate is now tensioned by the foam and the noise has stopped 100%. Give it a try. Also if anyone is interested, I'm selling my 04, M66, 211k for 6k, with oceans of spare parts and a laptop with VIDA and DiCE. I haven't posted it anywhere yet because I'm emotionally attached to the car and dragging my feet.
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Mar 22, 2018 16:04
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Seminal Flu posted:Wagons are tough to find in a manual, in general. Solid, especially with the turbo 5 cylinder. Drives kinda like a truck. Turning radius is seriously Are the R special in this case? I couldn't park my P2 S80 into my work parking hall without doing the three point turn dance in a every turn, and I'm considering a P2 R but if that's the case I might have to commute to work by bus
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Mar 22, 2018 21:42
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cakesmith handyman posted:Ask Lloyd is my Volvo search engine. Speaking of that... I got offered a 1987 240 wagon pretty cheap. Its a manual, and I assume its a 4.5 or 5 speed. Is it worth $1500? It was their daily drive but has sat since 2015 maybe? I know they have bad wiring harnesses and some other maladies, but are there other things to look out for? Its silver gray and 
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Mar 23, 2018 00:59
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Kivi posted:Are the R special in this case? I couldn't park my P2 S80 into my work parking hall without doing the three point turn dance in a every turn, and I'm considering a P2 R but if that's the case I might have to commute to work by bus The P2 Rs will train you to determine, by a glance alone, how many point-turns will be required to execute any maneuver. The 17" and 18" wheels are big and the steering bumps stops are very conservative. Unless you live in a dense urban center, you'll be fine, don't let it scare you. It's a quirk of ownership, not a fault. A delightful, three-point quirk.
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Mar 23, 2018 01:11
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DJ Commie posted:Speaking of that... You work on weirdo Daihatsus and such I can’t imagine this Volvo presenting insurmountable problems
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Mar 23, 2018 01:34
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DJ Commie posted:Speaking of that... You might as well get it, dude. Worst case you have a fantastic platform for a V8 swap. 
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Mar 23, 2018 02:44
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The fuel pumps and fuel pump relay can be a common spot of trouble, but you can usually get them running again with just a main (external) pump replacement, which is a lot easier to do than the lift (in-tank) one. That'll let you get it moving as long as there's over half a tank of fuel in it. If the heater core is leaking just bypass it and start saving up to do a full HVAC box replacement, Dave Barton has a really good writeup on how to install one of the Classic Air universal units into 240s that I'm absolutely going to be doing to my 245 one day.
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Mar 23, 2018 04:21
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Thanks guys, I know that time has taken its toll on the 240 population over the last 10 years and finding later manual ones that aren't smashed up or ironically trashed is harder than it seems. College towns don't make it easier.
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Mar 23, 2018 17:13
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87 should be a real 5 speed, which I learned is a mechanical add-on 5th gear rather than an electric one. If I'm wrong look for the button on the shifter vs the 5 gear pattern. Still bulletproof reliable when driven by the stock engine though. Yeah 87 is one of the years of the biodegradable engine harness, but replacements are available and make the car like new again. http://www.240turbo.com/volvoharnesses.html#85-87_240_non-turbo If you like the 240 you are not alone, they are wildly popular and there is an infinite amount of resources on fixing them. Everything is easy except the heater core and fan, but if you have to do it, and you want to do it right, it's one weekend and then the car is good for the rest of its life. If it's relatively rust free and straight it's worth every penny of $1500 once you get it running. Then take it to portland and you can flip it for $3k. My sister still insists that the only car for her is a 240 manual wagon. She's on her third one since 1992. First one was donated to a demolition derby at 350k miles. Second lost to a crash. Third is going strong. She does bare minimum maintenance. Take that for what it's worth. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Mar 24, 2018 |
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Mar 24, 2018 03:27
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| # ? Jun 9, 2024 14:27 |
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Yeah luck is not on my side with this R.  For reference, this is what it should look like, it's almost the same angle:  Snapped the shaft. I was getting compressor surge noises once in a while, because I swapped the springs in the forge CBV. I'm pretty sure this is a compressor stall event, it happened when I lifted off the throttle at 6k RPM or so. But yeah the whole turbo is probably trashed. Sigh. Fortunately there are a couple on the swedespeed classifieds right now so hopefully I can just return it to stock and start over. I think I'd be fine with just a mild tune on what I have. Sucks though, this turbo felt perfect when I inspected it back in October. But as you all know, the car has never run right since I got it. The silver lining is that it's motivation to get off my rear end. I finished rebuilding the 15G so that'll be up for sale this week, and tore down two other K24 turbos hoping they could be rebuilt, but unfortunately both of those ground the blades on the housings at both ends. Not interested in trying to salvage them. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Apr 8, 2018 |
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Apr 8, 2018 23:29
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