MakerBots, RepRaps and UP!s: It's 3D printers!

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isndl: May 2, 2012; I WON A CONTEST IN TG AND ALL I GOT WAS THIS CUSTOM TITLE

Ear defect is because your filament doesn't have time to cool before another layer starts (because your layer slices have tiny areas now). Pointing a fan at your print bed helps.

# ? Mar 17, 2018 02:34

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# ? Jun 11, 2024 00:57

peepsalot: Apr 24, 2007; ��PEEP THIS...
��BITCH!

isndl posted:

Ear defect is because your filament doesn't have time to cool before another layer starts (because your layer slices have tiny areas now). Pointing a fan at your print bed helps.

Another trick is to print multiples of your object. Doing 2 objects gives the ear layers twice the time to cool, and so on.
Also it can help to tweak slicer settings: i think most have advanced setting for turning on/up print cooling fan or to slow down feedrate for layers under X seconds, etc.

The same applies to this other post on last page:

Megabound posted:

0.4mm nozzle. 0.05mm layer height, the coin is 19.4mm in diameter.

That's a good example of where my printer falls down, perfect up the knurling because but terrible with the tongue as it's too thin for it to handle.

# ? Mar 17, 2018 03:16

Mofabio: May 15, 2003; (y - mx)*(1/(inf))*(PV/RT)*(2.718)*(V/I)

A new light and strong 3D infill, gyroid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVL3cUaArUE

# ? Mar 17, 2018 03:51

The Eyes Have It: Feb 10, 2008; Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

that's pretty cool looking

# ? Mar 17, 2018 05:53

Rockman Reserve: Oct 2, 2007; "Carbons? Purge? What are you talking about?!"

Sorry in advance for the dumb question - I changed the filament in my Monoprice Maler Select and now the extruder gear is skipping....but the nozzle isn't clogged, filament is melting down through the tip from gravity. What should I be checking out here?

One thing I've seen suggested is to turn the hot end on pretty hot, manually turn the extruder on, and blow out the tube with some canned air. Planning on trying that tomorrow. Any other ideas/advice?

# ? Mar 18, 2018 04:43

Stupid_Sexy_Flander: Mar 14, 2007; Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?; Grimey Drawer

Check the diameter of the filament, it might be a bit smaller/larger than the last one you used. There's a gear with a little tension nut on the side, inside the extruder. You might wanna either tighten or loosen it a bit to see if it helps move the filament along.

If the filament is a different brand or make than what you previously used, you might need to bump the temp up a few degrees as well.

Also, do a cold pull or two to make sure that there isn't a little bit of filament left in the nozzle blocking it. Could just be a partial clog.

# ? Mar 18, 2018 05:41

kaffo: Jun 20, 2017; If it's broken, it's probably my fault

Anyone here know much about modelling?

I'm trying to make a miniature for a tabletop game, I made the actual figure as a obj mesh then wanted to scale it + stick it on a base and get it printing
I was using OnShape to glue it all together, but turns out that while it happily lets you import and transform the mesh from the obj, it doesn't let you actually interact with other parts you create in OnShape. So I can't union the base and the model then export it as a single model to print

How can I go about this? Seems to be very little about it on the net
I can provide the mesh I want to print if anyone wants a look too, it took me like 5 mins to make :smug:

# ? Mar 18, 2018 12:29

FormatAmerica: Jun 3, 2005; Grimey Drawer

kaffo posted:

Anyone here know much about modelling?

I'm trying to make a miniature for a tabletop game, I made the actual figure as a obj mesh then wanted to scale it + stick it on a base and get it printing
I was using OnShape to glue it all together, but turns out that while it happily lets you import and transform the mesh from the obj, it doesn't let you actually interact with other parts you create in OnShape. So I can't union the base and the model then export it as a single model to print

How can I go about this? Seems to be very little about it on the net
I can provide the mesh I want to print if anyone wants a look too, it took me like 5 mins to make

You can just add the model and the base STLs in your slicer and scale/position them there. As long as the base and model intersect they will be printed as one piece.

# ? Mar 18, 2018 14:14

kaffo: Jun 20, 2017; If it's broken, it's probably my fault

FormatAmerica posted:

You can just add the model and the base STLs in your slicer and scale/position them there. As long as the base and model intersect they will be printed as one piece.

Oh can I?
I thought I'd need to do some intersection in an editor first. But that would work totally fine! Thanks :unsmith:

On a tangent, my printer is now going great now I've got the extrusion rate and temp right. Got a table full of crap I've printed and minis for the game on Tuesday :science:

# ? Mar 18, 2018 16:15

FormatAmerica: Jun 3, 2005; Grimey Drawer

kaffo posted:

Oh can I?
I thought I'd need to do some intersection in an editor first. But that would work totally fine! Thanks

As far as I know all slicers will make a single, manifold object out of two models that intersect.

Another option would be to export as STL & use the Windows 10 STL viewer/editor - it supports simple positional, rotational, and scaling as well as join operators (union, intersection, etc.).

# ? Mar 18, 2018 16:30

BMan: Oct 31, 2015; KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK

FormatAmerica posted:

You can just add the model and the base STLs in your slicer and scale/position them there. As long as the base and model intersect they will be printed as one piece.

Don't assume this! I tried this in Slic3r PE and it didn't work. It just sliced the models independently and put the toolpaths on top of each other, yikes!

What did work, was putting the two intersecting shells into one STL. This also may or may not work depending on your slicer, so always check the gcode preview.

# ? Mar 18, 2018 17:12

FormatAmerica: Jun 3, 2005; Grimey Drawer

BMan posted:

Don't assume this! I tried this in Slic3r PE and it didn't work. It just sliced the models independently and put the toolpaths on top of each other, yikes!

Oh...lame. Simplify 3D supremacy.

# ? Mar 18, 2018 17:20

peepsalot: Apr 24, 2007; ��PEEP THIS...
��BITCH!

kaffo posted:

Anyone here know much about modelling?

I'm trying to make a miniature for a tabletop game, I made the actual figure as a obj mesh then wanted to scale it + stick it on a base and get it printing
I was using OnShape to glue it all together, but turns out that while it happily lets you import and transform the mesh from the obj, it doesn't let you actually interact with other parts you create in OnShape. So I can't union the base and the model then export it as a single model to print

How can I go about this? Seems to be very little about it on the net
I can provide the mesh I want to print if anyone wants a look too, it took me like 5 mins to make

You could do somehting like this in OpenSCAD, with a few lines of script.

code:

ratio = 0.5; // adjust to taste
union() {
	scale(ratio) import("figure.stl");  
	translate([x,y,z])  // replace x,y,z with appropriate positioning 
		import("base.stl"); // import or alternatively create some model of a base from primitives/CSG, like a short cylinder/disc, maybe chamfered?
}

F5 to Preview. When things are scaled and positioned so it looks ok, then F6 render, then File->Export to stl.

# ? Mar 18, 2018 18:47

kaffo: Jun 20, 2017; If it's broken, it's probably my fault

peepsalot posted:

You could do somehting like this in OpenSCAD, with a few lines of script.
code:
ratio = 0.5; // adjust to taste
union() {
	scale(ratio) import("figure.stl");  
	translate([x,y,z])  // replace x,y,z with appropriate positioning 
		import("base.stl"); // import or alternatively create some model of a base from primitives/CSG, like a short cylinder/disc, maybe chamfered?
}
F5 to Preview. When things are scaled and positioned so it looks ok, then F6 render, then File->Export to stl.

Also good to know, thanks!
I actually ended up grabbing Blender before FormatAmerica posted and gritting my teeth through it's horrible UI. A quick union in that solved it luckily!

Now I need to find out how to make people not look like crap!

# ? Mar 18, 2018 18:52

Stupid_Sexy_Flander: Mar 14, 2007; Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?; Grimey Drawer

Traditionally, that'd be alccohol...

:guinness:

# ? Mar 18, 2018 21:31

Kazy: Oct 23, 2006; 0x141 KERNEL PANIC

food court bailiff posted:

Sorry in advance for the dumb question - I changed the filament in my Monoprice Maler Select and now the extruder gear is skipping....but the nozzle isn't clogged, filament is melting down through the tip from gravity. What should I be checking out here?

One thing I've seen suggested is to turn the hot end on pretty hot, manually turn the extruder on, and blow out the tube with some canned air. Planning on trying that tomorrow. Any other ideas/advice?

The filament is missing the little hole to go into the hot end. I struggled with this every time I changed filament with that printer.

# ? Mar 18, 2018 22:25

Rockman Reserve: Oct 2, 2007; "Carbons? Purge? What are you talking about?!"

Kazy posted:

The filament is missing the little hole to go into the hot end. I struggled with this every time I changed filament with that printer.

But it's coming out of the nozzle, I mean, I can push it down and more comes out accordingly. This is some cheap filament I got for Christmas so I think it's probably a diameter problem. Haven't gotten around to measuring it.

# ? Mar 19, 2018 01:14

Listerine: Jan 5, 2005; Exquisite Corpse

kaffo posted:

Also good to know, thanks!
I actually ended up grabbing Blender before FormatAmerica posted and gritting my teeth through it's horrible UI. A quick union in that solved it luckily!

Now I need to find out how to make people not look like crap!

You can look into Sculptris if it's still free, that's an organic sculpting program, could be better for figurines.

# ? Mar 19, 2018 01:17

Megabound: Oct 20, 2012

food court bailiff posted:

Sorry in advance for the dumb question - I changed the filament in my Monoprice Maler Select and now the extruder gear is skipping....but the nozzle isn't clogged, filament is melting down through the tip from gravity. What should I be checking out here?

One thing I've seen suggested is to turn the hot end on pretty hot, manually turn the extruder on, and blow out the tube with some canned air. Planning on trying that tomorrow. Any other ideas/advice?

It could also be a partial block. I've had filament that would hand feed ok, but stop extruding once driven. Do cold pulls until you're getting a nice smooth replica of the inside of your barrel and nozzle and try again.

# ? Mar 19, 2018 01:46

The Eyes Have It: Feb 10, 2008; Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Yeah I had a partial block, did exactly that. Filament coming out isn't necessarily counter evidence of blockage. Strange as that sounds.

I hosed around with cold pulls and stuff but replacing the nozzle was the solution that stuck for me. Whatever it was just wouldn't give up.

# ? Mar 19, 2018 04:07

Jestery: Aug 2, 2016; Not a Dickman, just a shape

I've taken a significant maintenance on my printer as an excuse to do my significant maintenance

Going from the standard cr-10 control box to this.

Then printing off some feet ASAP and getting everything noice and tidy underneath

I need to design and print a case for the duet board but for now I can solve my print issues without accidentally shorting out the power supply on my toe while stumbling around stoned

# ? Mar 19, 2018 06:40

kaffo: Jun 20, 2017; If it's broken, it's probably my fault

Help

I want to buy an E3D all metal V6 hotend

Also I bought a bunch of nozzles to try them out

# ? Mar 19, 2018 15:24

mewse: May 2, 2006

kaffo posted:

Help

I want to buy an E3D all metal V6 hotend

Also I bought a bunch of nozzles to try them out

It's good

# ? Mar 19, 2018 15:25

Jestery: Aug 2, 2016; Not a Dickman, just a shape

Some of the better money spent on my printer

# ? Mar 19, 2018 15:38

Stupid_Sexy_Flander: Mar 14, 2007; Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?; Grimey Drawer

kaffo posted:

Help

I want to buy an E3D all metal V6 hotend

Also I bought a bunch of nozzles to try them out

I'd hold off on the E3D. From what I understand it's a pretty big mod to pop on the tornado.

Nozzles though, have a loving blast man. I kinda wanna try one of the .1mm ones just to see how tiny I can print.

Edit - There is an entirely large chance I am an idiot and got this confused with a volcano hotend.

Stupid_Sexy_Flander fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Mar 19, 2018

# ? Mar 19, 2018 15:39

kaffo: Jun 20, 2017; If it's broken, it's probably my fault

Dammit guys

# ? Mar 19, 2018 16:45

AlexDeGruven: Jun 29, 2007; Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box

The X carriage is the biggest consideration when getting a full metal hotend. They require active cooling (or at least a heat sink) on the heatbreak, which dramatically changes the layout of the carriage.

I went back to a ptfe-lined heatbreak with an e3d-style nozzle to get as much benefit as possible without completely reconfiguring my printer.

# ? Mar 19, 2018 23:22

Rockman Reserve: Oct 2, 2007; "Carbons? Purge? What are you talking about?!"

Well I did several cold pulls, one of them pulled some gunk out, but still no extrusion. I can feel the gear like tapping the filament, it feels almost like it's extruding but bounces back up. I'm still getting tons of filament through the nozzle like nothing's clogged. Not sure what to do next short of disassembling the hotend, and even then I'm not really sure what I'd be doing.

# ? Mar 20, 2018 02:36

ickna: May 19, 2004

This might be a long shot, but if you�ve tried everything it�s worth checking that the connector for your extruder stepper is fully seated on the controller board. I�ve had mine wiggle out from vibration enough that one phase of the motor wasn�t making a full connection and it would just rock back and forth without extruding anything.

# ? Mar 21, 2018 05:24

Foxtrot_13: Oct 31, 2013; Ask me about my love of genocide denial!

ickna posted:

This might be a long shot, but if you’ve tried everything it’s worth checking that the connector for your extruder stepper is fully seated on the controller board. I’ve had mine wiggle out from vibration enough that one phase of the motor wasn’t making a full connection and it would just rock back and forth without extruding anything.

This is a good thing to check. I had extrusion problems and it turned out to be a dodgy cable. One way to check is to connect the X axis cable to the extruder and move the X axis. If filiment comes out it's either a motor, cable or driver problem and not a hot end problem. It's a good idea to plug the extruder cable into the X axis motor and extrude to see if that moves the carriage.

# ? Mar 21, 2018 12:55

NeurosisHead: Jul 22, 2007; NONONONONONONONONO

My I3 Mk3 should ship the week of April 16th. It's my first printer, so I want to make sure that I have a spare spool of filament or two on hand to endlessly print calibration stuff and get familiar with how the printer operates. What brand do you guys recommend?

# ? Mar 22, 2018 00:35

Stupid_Sexy_Flander: Mar 14, 2007; Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?; Grimey Drawer

Hatchbox is a pretty good one.

Also, OH MY GOD BUY DAMPENERS. I just installed the set on the x and y axis motors and holy poo poo. Haven't printed anything yet but the test moving and whatnot is so much quieter.

# ? Mar 22, 2018 00:50

NeurosisHead: Jul 22, 2007; NONONONONONONONONO

Do you have any dampeners in particular that you recommend, or did you print them? Do they have any impact on shake creating banding, or just motor noise?

# ? Mar 22, 2018 00:56

Stupid_Sexy_Flander: Mar 14, 2007; Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?; Grimey Drawer

Bought a 3 pack on ebay for about :10bux:

and they came in about 2 days later. They even come with the screws, so that's cool. Some dude in Texas. Got a 3 pack because hell, it was cheaper than buying 2 separate ones from another seller.

I only put em on the x and y, cause z doesn't really move that fast, and the extruder doesn't seem to be something that needs a dampener.

Only downside was for the Y axis I had to use the screws off the X axis motor mount because they were longer. If you have a hardware store around, the screws are like 20 cents a pop though, so you don't really NEED to recycle em if you want to keep them separate for some reason.

I'm gonna relevel the bed and try to do some prints tonight. I'll update the thread on how it goes.

I also put one of those floor foam mats (those 4 for 8 buck ones from harbor freight) that I cut down under the printer, and that helped kill the noise as well. Loudest thing now is the fan kicking in for the power supply.

# ? Mar 22, 2018 01:01

NeurosisHead: Jul 22, 2007; NONONONONONONONONO

I'll remember that, thank you! I have so many questions, most of which are just things that I'll learn with experience. I am curious about what slicer software you guys prefer. If the Prusa owners facebook group is any indicated, the answer seems to always be "I like <x> because that's what I know and I couldn't figure out <y> when I tried". What do you folks think?

# ? Mar 22, 2018 01:16

porksmash: Sep 30, 2008

Prusa has their own brand of Slic3r that you should probably use. I bet it's preconfigured for your printer and everything.

# ? Mar 22, 2018 03:05

eddiewalker: Apr 28, 2004; Arrrr ye landlubber

Cura is cool too. I hear it�s got a bunch of neat new features like tree supports and surface ironing. I wouldn�t know, though, because I have to justify the $150 I spent on S3D.

Just try them all. They�ve all got strengths and weaknesses.

# ? Mar 22, 2018 03:27

Some Pinko Commie: Jun 9, 2009; CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

NeurosisHead posted:

I'll remember that, thank you! I have so many questions, most of which are just things that I'll learn with experience. I am curious about what slicer software you guys prefer. If the Prusa owners facebook group is any indicated, the answer seems to always be "I like <x> because that's what I know and I couldn't figure out <y> when I tried". What do you folks think?

The manual that Prusa ships with the MK3 (the Printing manual, not the Assembly manual) is supposed to be super detailed and informative for printing on that machine.

I'd suggest you wait until you get the printer and study that manual because there is a ton of information out there that won't apply. To say nothing of the info that is just plain wrong.

# ? Mar 22, 2018 04:37

Jestery: Aug 2, 2016; Not a Dickman, just a shape

Can someone explain what the value in jerk means?

Like I've googled it and I get that it means how quickly my motor gets to top speed, but like

What is the difference between (a firmware) value of 20mm² vs 4000mm²?

# ? Mar 22, 2018 04:49

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# ? Jun 11, 2024 00:57

Megabound: Oct 20, 2012

NeurosisHead posted:

I'll remember that, thank you! I have so many questions, most of which are just things that I'll learn with experience. I am curious about what slicer software you guys prefer. If the Prusa owners facebook group is any indicated, the answer seems to always be "I like <x> because that's what I know and I couldn't figure out <y> when I tried". What do you folks think?

As a MK2 Prusa owner, use Slic3r PE. The settings it uses will give you effortless amazing prints out of the box. Be sure to follow the manual, do a Z-Offset calibration before printing anything and for your first print do it off the supplied card with the already prepared gcode.

# ? Mar 22, 2018 05:02

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > MakerBots, RepRaps and UP!s: It's 3D printers!

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