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99 down TJs use the old style block, 00 up use the WJ style. You can tell the difference from the location of the AC compressor, if it's under the intake it's a new style block, on the passenger side it's an old style. You might get away with that but who knows. It's one of the bottom ones that's under tension so it's rather important. Passenger side of the block I don't think changed so you could use a brown dog or stinkyfab racing aftermarket mount that picks up another few bolt holes.
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Mar 20, 2018 02:22
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Just weld the chunk back in.
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Mar 20, 2018 02:38
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Gingerbread House Music posted:Just weld the chunk back in. I took the pics and the chunk to a machine shop today and it's too small to weld back in. If I could weld, or had a buddy that could, I could probably get away with pulling the broken bolt out and filling the hole with weld and rebuilding the broken cast area then tapping, but alas I don't have that luxury; paying someone to do that would probably cost more than getting a new-ish block. You can tell how small the chunk is by seeing where there is rust compared to shiny metal. The shiny metal is the flat part that the mount sat on. kastein posted:99 down TJs use the old style block, 00 up use the WJ style. You can tell the difference from the location of the AC compressor, if it's under the intake it's a new style block, on the passenger side it's an old style. This is a 2004 block in a 2000 TJ. I have a WJ style mount from when I bought this engine from a mechanic with "severe overheating" aka aluminum transferred from piston to cylinder wall. It's bored .020" over, so a new block means getting it bored to match or new pistons, too. This hole is actually one of the top ones for that mount style. The bottom hole is in the pic above, just in front of the exhaust pipe. Thanks for the mount info, I'd rather not rely on a hosed up bolt hole if I can avoid it. EightBit fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Mar 20, 2018 |
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Mar 20, 2018 05:35
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Eightbit look up Stinky Fab in Escondido - it's a couple hundred bucks but they make a block-side mounting plate that utilizes like 7 of the holes. Might make for a stronger fix.
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Mar 20, 2018 16:01
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Yeah, they're the cheapest option that I've found. I wonder if I can paint them with engine enamel or if I should get some different paint.
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Mar 20, 2018 18:00
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Well, if you had the gear you could tig braze it. Less heat, less crying on cast.
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Mar 22, 2018 03:43
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So, my tj cranks up but runs real rough, with really weird vibrations. It almost feels like a shaking at idle. I get no power in gear, the clutch pedal is kind of loose, and I can move the shifter in and out of gear without the clutch and with no grinding. It doesn’t grab any gears when shifting at all. Would that be the clutch plate?
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Mar 23, 2018 23:06
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Update: I put it in fifth and let out the clutch slowly, it didn’t stall. Also there’s a really bad shake when I give it gas.
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Mar 28, 2018 22:31
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Karma Comedian posted:Update: I put it in fifth and let out the clutch slowly, it didn’t stall. Also there’s a really bad shake when I give it gas. Time to drop the transmission, stop running that engine.
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Mar 28, 2018 23:04
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Does anyone off hand know the part #s for 4.0 pcv valves and grommets for the 97-01 4.0?
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Mar 28, 2018 23:23
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Woohoo, WK probably needs yet another PCM due to spurious "trans over temp" detection. Stellar job with that one, DCX. (Guessing the current one is related to the PCM cover gasket apparently turning into fluff (  ) and subsequently tumbleweeding itself out of the mating surface, but that's just a guess.)always be closing posted:Does anyone off hand know the part #s for 4.0 pcv valves and grommets for the 97-01 4.0? When last I asked, the grommets were a dead part. Maybe that's changed since then. RockAuto lists 2946079 for the grommet, 53030495 and 53030497 for the elbows. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Mar 29, 2018 |
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Mar 29, 2018 01:00
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If you're curious, the elbows are different and you need one of each. I've had to replace them, it sucks, but at least they don't have any moving parts and should last until a stupid monkey breaks one.
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Mar 29, 2018 01:29
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I have a nice gaping hole and crack in my XJ's exhaust right by the hangar weld on the incoming side of the catalytic converter (right where the exhaust passes over the trans mount / skid plate). Luckily the cat is fine but the pipe that runs from it to the headers / engine is probably going to need to be replaced. In the short term do I have any hope of using a tape or something like it to temporarily fix the leak? Hoping I don't have to **BRAAAHHHHHH** buzz around town loudly while I wait to get a new pipe. edit: It's actually exactly in the same spot as this guy's leak: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDtD6zBfZSs Except I still have the hanger (it's welded on there) and the crack goes around the hanger weld. It looks like a challenging area to seal up with tape unfortunately since the hanger is in the way and I can't cleanly wrap around it, but I need to take a better look with more light later. I'm curious if exhaust tape even works though... never tried it. mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Mar 29, 2018 |
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Mar 29, 2018 04:48
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Those grommets and elbows are definitely available aftermarket now. I can't remember the part numbers though, bought them in 2013 or 2014 for my 98. E: and like the guy said, front and back are different. Back is the metering orifice one.
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Mar 29, 2018 20:51
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Thank you guys, I think dorman makes copies. I'll report what I get.
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Mar 29, 2018 21:56
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I think I'll have to send those Stinkyfab mounts back, the holes don't all line up.
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Mar 30, 2018 01:41
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drat, that sucks! Sorry to have recommended them I guess 😠
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Mar 30, 2018 03:13
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Astonishing Wang posted:drat, that sucks! Sorry to have recommended them I guess 😠 I think I can get away with drilling one hole out a bit, but it would be great if I didn't have to modify parts to fit a block that literally has more than a million examples made.
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Mar 30, 2018 05:48
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Ouch my exhaust hole was a bit nastier than I first thought. The hanger actually tore right off and was just hanging on: Luckily without the hanger in the way it was easier to get around the pipe and try to put a temporary patch on. Did the sliver of a coke can on it, then some heat proof tape, and a layer of this exhaust patch kit that's basically a fiber tape soaked in epoxy. We'll see how well it works tomorrow after it all cures. I'm hoping it can last a few weeks to get a new pipe and the time to install it:  On the plus side too the transmission mount is in a great spot to cradle the exhaust and keep it in place without the hanger.  Not good for it to be rubbing and banging metal on metal there for too long though.
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Mar 30, 2018 06:15
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When it comes to vac lines, is it a bad idea to cut a length of tubing and fix it that way or are the silicone rubbery replacements the only way to go?
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Mar 30, 2018 06:30
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gileadexile posted:When it comes to vac lines, is it a bad idea to cut a length of tubing and fix it that way or are the silicone rubbery replacements the only way to go? As long as the tubing is a snug fit and isn't rubbing on anything, it's good.
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Mar 30, 2018 14:25
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Some kind of fiber or hair is coming out of one of the holes in my transmission
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Mar 30, 2018 20:03
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Any major gotchas or issues when replacing the front exhaust pipe (from headers down to cat) on the XJ ('99 auto)? It looks like in theory a pretty straightforward job--a couple bolts on the header side and a clamp with bolts on the cat side. Wiggle it out and then install a new one. I heard someone mention you might need a pipe expander to expand the cat input pipe a bit after the clamp crushed it down. Anyone have any pointers or advice they learned from doing it themselves? edit: Oh and I'm just going to put a new O2 sensor in the new pipe. I already have the sensor from some earlier troubleshooting (ended up being the wires to the sensor being shorted). I figure it's a lot less stress and pain to just start new instead of trying to get the old sensor out of the old pipe. mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Apr 3, 2018 |
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Apr 3, 2018 18:29
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From my experience working on anything on the bottom of my 99 at least half the bolts will shear
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Apr 4, 2018 20:57
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What aeryk said and the 2 bolts to the header are actually studs pressed into the header flange really tight, they are a bitch to remove on the vehicle. It took me a while with an air chisel. I replaced mine with through bolts of the shittiest grade I could get so they would at least break off easily next time. E: oh yeah I hate RENIX, but one of my friends is one of the best SBEC and JTEC ECU tuners in the world and wants to expand his offering to RENIX as well. Long story short I'm helping him reverse engineer the entire RENIX ECU, and just found at least a few of the tables in the ROM while eyeballing it waiting for my logic analyzer to show up so I can map the address decoder... Msexcel makes decent table visualization software if you don't have anything else  
kastein fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Apr 7, 2018 |
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Apr 7, 2018 01:28
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kastein posted:E: oh yeah I hate RENIX, but one of my friends is one of the best SBEC and JTEC Can you somehow make him go work for HPTuners and make them finish their JTEC support?
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Apr 7, 2018 03:31
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Nah, probably not. He makes good money doing it on the side as it is, and already has a full-time job as an IT tech.
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Apr 7, 2018 12:54
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Found my issue 
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Apr 7, 2018 22:35
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Lord in heaven....
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Apr 7, 2018 23:58
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That'll do it..
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Apr 8, 2018 01:22
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Update on the StinkyFab Racing engine mounts: I had to drill out a hole on each bracket to make the mounts bolt up. I don't know what size they were from the fab, but drilling them to 1/2" worked.
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Apr 8, 2018 02:18
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There's still a good 10k miles on that thing
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Apr 8, 2018 02:23
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What's that clutch out of again? A guy I share space with did one on a jk that looked similar. I put Grand Cherokee v8 coils, new dorman leafs, and 1.5" shackle on my xj with some new KYBs. Rides pretty drat good on 215/75 tires, cruises 80 with no problems unless you hit an expansion joint just right.  This is probably the best vehicle I've owned it's just fun as poo poo to drive. Ive been driving lowered trucks for the past ten years, it was awesome to have a 4x4 this winter instead of sliding around. Replaced the exhaust from the cat back, new belt, and an alternator. 180k and rolling.
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Apr 9, 2018 00:36
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kastein posted:E: oh yeah I hate RENIX, but one of my friends is one of the best SBEC and JTEC ECU tuners in the world and wants to expand his offering to RENIX as well. Long story short I'm helping him reverse engineer the entire RENIX ECU, and just found at least a few of the tables in the ROM while eyeballing it waiting for my logic analyzer to show up so I can map the address decoder... Msexcel makes decent table visualization software if you don't have anything else I'm curious about your friend - is he the NickInTime guy? If not, they should definitely connect because I don't think there are any other hardcore RENIX ECU dudes on earth. I run one of Nick's V3 REMs mounted in my XJ and it's been fuckin' key to dialing in my old junk. RENIX gets a lot of poo poo, but once you learn how it works it is surprisingly adaptable in terrible places like California that rely heavily on OBDII scans.
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Apr 9, 2018 02:10
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kastein posted:Nah, probably not. He makes good money doing it on the side as it is, and already has a full-time job as an IT tech. Oh I know, literally anyone with the know-how has better things to do than JTEC. I mostly would just like to be able to buy credits for the HPTuners cable I have, instead of a whole new solution if I ever need to do more than what an ELM327 clone will get me.
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Apr 9, 2018 02:25
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always be closing posted:What's that clutch out of again? It's out of a 350 swapped 97 tj. Speaking of, how do I determine what size clutch I need? I see inches measurements when searching.
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Apr 9, 2018 05:13
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:I'm curious about your friend - is he the NickInTime guy? If not, they should definitely connect because I don't think there are any other hardcore RENIX ECU dudes on earth. I run one of Nick's V3 REMs mounted in my XJ and it's been fuckin' key to dialing in my old junk. RENIX gets a lot of poo poo, but once you learn how it works it is surprisingly adaptable in terrible places like California that rely heavily on OBDII scans. Nope. Name is Mark Nelson, you'll see him posting on FB Jeep groups. I did discuss this with Nick Risley though, I've got some ideas on features we can add to the ECU firmware that he can add support for to his REM. It's a really cool tool, only reason I don't own one is I already have a snapon mt2500 that does most of the same stuff. IOwnCalculus posted:Oh I know, literally anyone with the know-how has better things to do than JTEC. I mostly would just like to be able to buy credits for the HPTuners cable I have, instead of a whole new solution if I ever need to do more than what an ELM327 clone will get me. Yeah, it's pretty depressingly unsupported by everything except SCT iirc. There are a few guys who use SCT to do canned tunes for people. Mark's the only guy I'm aware of who has actually messed with the firmware manually and understands it instead of just screwing with the tables though. E: I'm 99% sure we can support over the wire reprogramming on RENIX after a little reverse engineering I did last night. It'll require replacing the firmware EPROM with a suitable EEPROM (which I've not found yet) and/or an NVSRAM and more reverse engineering but it doesn't look out of the question. It appears both Vpp and #PGM are controlled properly on the board. kastein fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Apr 9, 2018 |
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Apr 9, 2018 05:32
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Darn I'm throwing in the towel on trying to replace the exhaust front pipe myself on my XJ. I got the bolts off the pipe clamp on the cat input side (wow those things were super rusty!) but that clamp is just plain fused to the metal--there's no way it's coming off without some serious heat and other methods of 'encouragement'. I'm guessing it won't be that expensive for a muffler shop to pop it off and throw on the new pipe I have though.
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Apr 9, 2018 18:52
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I have an extensive collection of drill bits and thread taps just for the stupid jeep fasteners
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Apr 11, 2018 22:10
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Finally got around to beefing up the D30 to handle the 35s with peace of mind...Artec truss with johnny joint uppers and OTA bracket, Synergy gussets and HD ball joints, and CavFab solid rod crossover steering with 5/8" hardware and OTA track bar. ARB w/30-spline 4340 shafts so...if anything breaks in this, it's should be the u-joints every single time.
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Apr 16, 2018 20:44
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