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electralizer "I'm going to be doing some electralizering". Also, the hamemr header is a pretty useful thing. I can solder, but I really dislike doing it.
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 17:32 |
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# ? May 23, 2024 12:53 |
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Electrologist
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 17:59 |
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Electioneer Is IFTTT still one of the better ways to IoTify a pi? I'm using a Dropbox integration to allow remote commands without shell, but figured there are smarter wait to go about it. Also, are there any suggestions on remote controls for an raspbmc setup? I don't want guests to have to set up their phones just to use the tv features. Alucard fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Mar 24, 2018 |
# ? Mar 24, 2018 18:59 |
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Electrolyte, that's my final offer.
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 19:10 |
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xzzy posted:I just use that for brevity, gently caress if I'm gonna type out "electrical engineer" every time it comes up.
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 19:13 |
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ok fine i'll just buy a drat soldering iron you are all monsters for encouraging this
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 19:25 |
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Hello, Weller soldering iron company? I'd like my commission please
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 19:37 |
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Ive used a soldering iron before but that was back in high school which was...a while ago so i'm out of practice. The context for that soldering iron use was a class project where I soldered a mod chip into my xbox and installed a new hard drive to set up xbmc and install emulators and pirated games. I got an A in that class basically for stealing NBA Street Vol. 2 which our teacher let us play on the projector for the last few weeks of school.
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 20:11 |
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GobiasIndustries posted:Ive used a soldering iron before but that was back in high school which was...a while ago so i'm out of practice. What did the modchip do? I made a whole business of unlocking og xboxes, you could do all that stuff with just softmods
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 20:21 |
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GobiasIndustries posted:ok fine i'll just buy a drat soldering iron you are all monsters for encouraging this I have a Hakko 936 (discontinued, recent equivalent is the FX-888) and a TS100 and they are both fantastic irons. Those are both about $100 (when you include the cost of a good power supply and stand for the TS100) but they're worth it. I use the 936 on my workbench and I made a clip for the TS100 that lets it plug into a Makita battery for portable use. You can also get cheaper models; as long as they have a temperature control and replaceable tips you'll be set for a long time. This is a good cheaper one: https://www.adafruit.com/product/180 People also seem to like the Chinese knockoff AOYUE stations that are copies of the Hakkos, but I do believe that if it's something you foresee yourself using regularly, it's better to buy a quality tool once than a crappier version three or four times in a row. Don't get a Radio Shack or equivalent uncontrolled woodburner. They take forever to heat up and then they get way too hot and doing anything delicate with them is just an exercise in frustration.
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 20:36 |
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The TS100 is a very capable iron and I'm quite impressed at the compactness of it all, with the caveat being that it needs an external battery or power supply. One of my favorite things about it is that the firmware is reflashable with alternative open source firmwares (not sure if the stock firmware itself is open). I just like supporting product design that is hacker friendly enough to make reprogramming with custom firmware possible, which is rare for a lot of modern electronics aside from networking routers and android devices.
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 20:57 |
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I’ve had poor experiences with hammer headers. Dunno if that’s just me being stupid or what Which sucks because I’d really prefer hammer headers forever over doing another round of super finicky and monotonous GPIO soldering
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 20:59 |
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Yeah, the TS100 stock firmware is very...discount-Chinese-product. I would recommend reflashing it with the one on GitHub as soon as it arrives. The process is really easy (basically just plug it into your computer and drag the .hex file onto the "USB drive" that pops up). Oh, and remember when soldering: the factor controlling the detail you can achieve is usually the size of your solder, not the size of the iron tip. The stock tips will work well for very fine-pitch work as long as you get the really thin solder. Sockser posted:Which sucks because I’d really prefer hammer headers forever over doing another round of super finicky and monotonous GPIO soldering it takes like 60 seconds dude put the header strip in, tack the corners, flip it over, zip zip zip zip down one line, repeat for the other.
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 21:02 |
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Not if your soldering iron is cheap and sucks rear end i have to hold the tip in place for like 10-15 seconds before the solder melts. And I don't think it's just me, as I've had better luck with the good iron in my lab.
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 21:06 |
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420 SWAGLORD posted:What did the modchip do? I made a whole business of unlocking og xboxes, you could do all that stuff with just softmods The early softmods had a lot of ways things could go wrong and render your box unbootable, though if you back up your EEPROM when you first mod it you can basically recover from anything. The clock was a big issue for font hacks early on, if the RTC capacitor ran out your box would bootloop with a font-based softmod installed. Also you couldn't really turn them off without uninstalling the hack entirely, so Xbox Live was a no go where a chipped box could just flip a switch and reboot. A third-gen chip (Xecuter3, Xenium Ice, and I think one other) had it's own boot environment entirely in ROM and can boot even without a working hard drive installed. Those are wonderful for troubleshooting, as long as the motherboard itself is good you can generally get a box working again with one of those. I fixed a lot of people's hosed up softmods in college with my X3 on a solderless header. These days with XBL 1.0 being gone for good I see no reason to use a basic first or second gen modchip. I'd still choose a TSOP flash (reflashing the onboard BIOS chip) over a softmod if I was modding an early enough box to do that (v1.0-1.2 IIRC) but softmods are pretty safe now and again with an EEPROM backup it's easy to fix if something goes wrong.
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 21:12 |
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alnilam posted:Not if your soldering iron is cheap and sucks rear end i have to hold the tip in place for like 10-15 seconds before the solder melts. And I don't think it's just me, as I've had better luck with the good iron in my lab. Its also possible that the tip needs replacing if solder does not wet it easily. And if its not temperature regulated throw it in the trash and stop torturing yourself.
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 21:14 |
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Sockser posted:I’ve had poor experiences with hammer headers. Dunno if that’s just me being stupid or what
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 21:24 |
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420 SWAGLORD posted:What did the modchip do? I made a whole business of unlocking og xboxes, you could do all that stuff with just softmods at the time softmodding was more of a crapshoot, the chip i bought (this was over a decade ago so some of the details are foggy) let me install a couple different firmwares and i could turn it off and have it boot like normal IIRC. e: and also this was a "class project" so i needed something to do.
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 21:26 |
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Everybody in here who is saying soldering is hard, watch a bunch of Youtube videos. If you're doing it right, and your equipment is not trash, it is super easy and fun and rewarding. Those weird hammer in headers probably give lovely results, and will probably have bad intermittent contact sometime and ruin your week. Those recommendations of the TS100, Wellers, Hakkos, or similar clones are all good suggestions, depending on your
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 21:47 |
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I've watched this old school soldering series in the past and found it pretty interesting and informative, although a few of the sections cover terminal types that are basically obsolete, still helpful to see how the various shapes take solder etc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 21:57 |
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I still remember when my teacher was like 'that is a real cool project good job on the soldering wait what you can play every game on that thing?' and then we progressed from playing Super Mario to arcade fighting games to just full-out stolen xbox games during class.
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 22:09 |
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evil_bunnY posted:Dude I soldered like 3 times in HS and then did the GPIO header with no practice in 10mn 15 years later. You can do it. Oh, I’ve done it. Like three Zeros plus a pile of arduinos. I just loving hate it. Might be lovely soldering iron, I dunno.
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 22:55 |
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I can solder the headers on a zero in less than 5 minutes. Still don't like it and would rather use the hammer headers. They work great.
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# ? Mar 24, 2018 23:09 |
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Buy a full size pi then.
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# ? Mar 25, 2018 00:18 |
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Buy pace stuff its built like a tank and is insanely good and the tips are cheap
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# ? Mar 25, 2018 00:21 |
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Also sweating pipes is basically a useful skill though you need different Solder and Flux
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# ? Mar 25, 2018 00:22 |
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Malcolm XML posted:Also sweating pipes is basically a useful skill though you need different Solder and Flux Definitely. My dad showed me how to sweat-solder copper pipe when I was like 12 and it’s saved my rear end more than once.
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# ? Mar 25, 2018 04:43 |
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Sweating pipes is a useful skill to have, but there is a hammer header equivalent for pipes: sharkbite fittings...and they're way more effective for pipes than hammer headers are for raspberry pis!
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# ? Mar 25, 2018 05:18 |
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You would think there would be more 720p screens for the rpi but it seems like most of them are 480p unfortunately
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# ? Mar 25, 2018 06:06 |
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Thermopyle posted:Sweating pipes is a useful skill to have, but there is a hammer header equivalent for pipes: sharkbite fittings...and they're way more effective for pipes than hammer headers are for raspberry pis! They're a lifesaver if you can't turn off the water, too. SharkBite valve, then you have a chance to sweat the rest of the pipework correctly. I know a few commercial guys who have used them in under floor emergencies, and the fittings are immediately buried in concrete.
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# ? Mar 25, 2018 20:27 |
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Sharkbite/pex are better than soldered copper in every way except cost, but most especially in convenience and ease of installation
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# ? Mar 25, 2018 21:43 |
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I put a modchip in my Wii (this was early before you could soft mod) as well as wired a mame cabinet (using an old arcade cabinet, even wired up the coinslot) with a cheap $20 radio shack soldering iron. This was before YouTube was a big thing so I had no idea what I was doing but it all worked out. Hardest part was dealing with such small connections and not getting wires crossed.
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# ? Mar 25, 2018 21:59 |
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Before I send it back I wanted to check here troubleshooting steps. I just got a 3B+, the first Pi I've had since the original B model but I can't get it going. I've tried every combo of the following hardware: * 1 2.5A power supply from Newark: http://www.newark.com/webapp/wcs/st...9&storeId=10194 * 1 32GB SD card and 1 8GB SD card. * 1 Raspberry PI 3B+ * 1 Raspberry PI B (original) * 1 HDMI connection to a 4k Monitor * 1 set of USB Keyboard and Mouse I've installed the OS with Etcher, SD Card Formatter 4 and dd on the mac. All without luck. The old Raspeberry PI works, the new one has only a red power light, no activity lights, no output to the HDMI screen and all around responsive. I also tried both SD cards with no luck. Anything else I can try/troubleshoot?
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# ? Mar 26, 2018 04:50 |
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Try a different USB cable? Specifically the known-good one you've used to charge your phone by your bed every night. Otherwise it's likely dead. If you're especially brave you can strip the usb cable and apply 5v directly to the 40 GPIO to bypass the micro usb port. But I wouldn't do that if you're new to this.
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# ? Mar 26, 2018 08:34 |
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I found that my PI 3B+ would not boot if I dragged+dropped the system files onto the SD card. Had success with Win32DiskImager utility and the 4.9GB image file of raspbian as found on the website
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# ? Mar 26, 2018 10:13 |
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Get the best SD card you have too and try that. One with a name brand you recognize--not something that just says 8GB CARD.
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# ? Mar 26, 2018 17:52 |
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What's the best thing to do when packages won't update?code:
code:
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# ? Mar 26, 2018 19:35 |
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Any clever ways to make a headless ZeroW easy to use on lots of new wifi networks? I’m assuming ssh-over-USB to edit wpa_supplicant is going to be the easiest, but any options I’m missing?
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# ? Mar 26, 2018 20:42 |
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eddiewalker posted:Any clever ways to make a headless ZeroW easy to use on lots of new wifi networks? You can also put the microSD card in your laptop and edit the file on the FAT32 /boot partition--all operating systems should be able to mount and read it. IIRC raspbian looks for the wpa_supplicant.conf there too on boot. Or another options is carry a little travel router like this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Extender-TL-WR802N/dp/B00TQEX8BO and have the Pi setup to always connect to its AP. Many of them support a bridge mode where you can connect them to a wireless WAN (like a public wifi network) and then tunnel it to a private wifi AP they broadcast too. Also handy to plug in to a wired ethernet WAN if available too. mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Mar 26, 2018 |
# ? Mar 26, 2018 20:45 |
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# ? May 23, 2024 12:53 |
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Sad Panda posted:What's the best thing to do when packages won't update? 2 hours later it finally timed out. code:
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# ? Mar 26, 2018 22:08 |