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Is there a 'non scale' modeling thread? Where cosplayers/film nerds build props? My line of work has now lead me in that direction and I need some good guides/references.
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Mar 13, 2018 19:22
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N17R4M posted:Is there a 'non scale' modeling thread? Where cosplayers/film nerds build props? There is a cosplay creation thread, which includes props: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3473045 Theres also the PYF cosplay thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3812041
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Mar 13, 2018 22:30
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I assume you know about The RPF as well, right?
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Mar 14, 2018 00:04
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N17R4M posted:Is there a 'non scale' modeling thread? Where cosplayers/film nerds build props? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wl558EoTuEQ
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Mar 14, 2018 00:40
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Also please just think of it as 1/1 modelling and post your stuff here too.
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Mar 14, 2018 00:42
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Cartoon posted:Adam Savages YouTube channel has to be somewhat worthwhile It was indeed, I've been binge watching it for the past two weeks, and it's gotten me past the first hurdle of painting a few resin stand-ins.   (click for bigger) There's the "wood" bits of a previously broken into 4 pieces RPG-7. There's a visible crack still there, but after it was painted up it looked like the wood itself was cracked, so left it there to add to the aged effect. The other two were painted as ones with plastic furniture, so none of that fancy paintwork of faking wood was needed. Just matt and gloss blacks, with some metallic chrome bits. What I learned: Primers are your friend. Cure times are not.
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Mar 14, 2018 11:19
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I'm to the point of painting my F-14's fuselage/nose. What's the best way to mask off the cockpit & front landing gear bay? I don't have the seats or glass installed in the cockpit yet, so I was thinking Tamiya tape would work fine there, but I don't know if there's a better/easier way to "seal" both the openings as they're already painted.
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Mar 14, 2018 15:44
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Scharnhorst issue 35 Finishing up planking of the middle section of the hull, we learn how to cut strips to size so they will fit in gaps. Afterwards all the nails are pulled and the planked section is given a once over with sandpaper to smooth it. We've reached the 25% landmark in the build, so it's time to have another look at the whole thing put together so far. 
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Mar 14, 2018 16:56
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Greyhawk posted:Scharnhorst issue 35 Looking good! It's really strange to see a hull completely planked in just one section like that, when I'm used to doing bands starting at the deck or keel and working my way up or down. I understand doing it differently since the end result of yours is a steel hulled warship whereas mine is a wooden sailing ship where the planking remains visible as being wooden planking, but it's still weird to see it!
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Mar 14, 2018 17:16
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That a scharn is looking definitely horsted. Great work so far!
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Mar 14, 2018 17:31
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Mr E posted:I'm to the point of painting my F-14's fuselage/nose. What's the best way to mask off the cockpit & front landing gear bay? I don't have the seats or glass installed in the cockpit yet, so I was thinking Tamiya tape would work fine there, but I don't know if there's a better/easier way to "seal" both the openings as they're already painted. tissue or sponge?
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Mar 14, 2018 17:49
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Mr E posted:I'm to the point of painting my F-14's fuselage/nose. What's the best way to mask off the cockpit & front landing gear bay? I don't have the seats or glass installed in the cockpit yet, so I was thinking Tamiya tape would work fine there, but I don't know if there's a better/easier way to "seal" both the openings as they're already painted. I have a trash bag I've been cutting swatches out of for ages to tape over holes.
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Mar 15, 2018 11:26
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Way to put an ejector pin right in the middle of the (small amout of) detail Italeri, good job.
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Mar 15, 2018 22:32
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Arquinsiel posted:Also please just think of it as 1/1 modelling and post your stuff here too. 
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Mar 16, 2018 02:39
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Ahh, glued perfectly. *ping* gently caress! drat, well, got it glued again. *PING* I loving HATE CYANO!
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Mar 17, 2018 12:50
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Working thru a poo poo ton of PE on my 1/144 Fletcher DD right now. I feel your pain, brother.
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Mar 17, 2018 13:32
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Actual Airfix 1/48th Supermarine Walrus (not a model) (well, obviously a model but you know)  
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Mar 17, 2018 23:05
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CA glue is always an adventure. I just threw away a bottle because the consistency changed overnight and it wouldn’t bond anything—not even my fingers!
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Mar 20, 2018 17:10
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Frenz posted:CA glue is always an adventure. I just threw away a bottle because the consistency changed overnight and it wouldn’t bond anything—not even my fingers! Is there an agreed upon good CA glue for modelling? I have a small tube of gorilla glue but it feels way too thick for small parts (not that I've dabbled with PE at all yet) Sat down today and almost finished the assembly on this 1/72 Italeri Mc.202 kit and man it is 100% not fun. Almost every part is ill-fitting and left huge gaps. The cockpit windows don't fit right at all and has a huge gap at the back. Going to use it as just a test for filling with putty and painting because I really want to move onto this 1/48 Academy F8F kit that arrived today.
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Mar 20, 2018 18:46
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Loctite, occasionally still sold as "Super Attak". It's just the best CA you will get for basically anything.
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Mar 20, 2018 20:19
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Zap-a-Gap was my go-to for a while. They've got different viscosities so that's nice. I've got a bottle of Gorilla CA now and it has a brush in the cap which is super helpful.
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Mar 21, 2018 03:09
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I buy the cheapest CA I can find from the dollar store. It consistently has faster and better adhesion than brand name CA. On the other hand this means your 2g tube will only be openable for a few hours before the cap dries up. You also need to be really really careful not to glue up yourself. On the other hand 5 tubes of 2 g is like 1 Euro. Scharnhorst issue 36  We start planking the second section of the hull. Now that we know HOW planking is done, the instructions speed up things a bit and so we lay down about double the amount of strips then we did in the sessions before.
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Mar 21, 2018 13:22
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Done the lower hold on the Victory, took a couple shots since a lot this will be hidden once the next deck gets planked in. I decided to blacken up the brass gratings and the shot-locker fixtures, since I felt the bright brass look didn't fit with the natural wood look. Took a few tries though, as it didn't react with the blackening solution at first. Turned out they coated the brass either in some protectant, or plated with another metal. A bit of sanding with the proxxon to take it off, and then back in the blackener did the trick. I also varied the stain on the wooden grating frames, and left the gratings themselves unstained, to add some color variation to the overall tone.   
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Mar 22, 2018 05:28
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Done the lower hold on the Victory, took a couple shots since a lot this will be hidden once the next deck gets planked in. I decided to blacken up the brass gratings and the shot-locker fixtures, since I felt the bright brass look didn't fit with the natural wood look. Took a few tries though, as it didn't react with the blackening solution at first. Turned out they coated the brass either in some protectant, or plated with another metal. A bit of sanding with the proxxon to take it off, and then back in the blackener did the trick. Looks good. For future reference, most of the stuff they put on brass can be removed by dipping it in a light acid for a while. White vinegar typically works, and they also make some purpose made chemicals to clean it up prior to blackening. I get my chemicals from a company called "Jax" because after much experimenting by a friend, it was found to be the best and most consistent. They also make blackening for different metals. The "Pewter Black" works really fantastic on brass too, as well as that silverish crap metal that they put in a lot of kits for different fittings. For cleaning the brass in the vinegar or cleaning chemical, it works best if you put it in the chemical and then work it over lightly with a brush. I use a paint-brush cut off short to make the bristles stiffer. It makes a huge difference whether you brush it while dipped in the cleaner or not when blackening. My process is... Drop in cleaning solution -> Brush while in the solution -> rinse in distilled water 1 -> dry on paper towels -> rinse in distilled water 2 -> Dry on paper towels and let dry completely. Blackening - Drop in the blackening agent -> Brush while in the solution. Do not leave in for full black in one pass, just let it go for 30 seconds or so and brush all surfaces - > same rinsing process as the cleaning using 2 containers of distilled water. Repeat the blackening step until desired color is achieved. This should turn out a very even and attractive blackened part.
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Mar 22, 2018 07:16
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Well done, Hedgehog, that's a lovely stain.
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Mar 22, 2018 17:17
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 Nailed it 
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Mar 25, 2018 23:48
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Unkempt posted:
At least your Hi-Mock won a prize for their kit too, by the looks of it.
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Mar 26, 2018 01:50
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Neddy Seagoon posted:At least your Hi-Mock won a prize for their kit too, by the looks of it. Well he shouldn't have. Look at him, hes still making it! thats not show ready.
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Mar 26, 2018 01:52
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Unkempt posted:
Congrats man! That's a great feeling when you win an award for something you've made.
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Mar 26, 2018 01:54
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Unkempt posted:
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Mar 26, 2018 03:29
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Cheers guys. I'd had two silvers in a row with the previous crapbots so this was nice. Some other stuff from the show: - random planes  - random tanks  I liked this guy:  72nd scale, pretty crazy  Paper model; the same guy had about half a dozen of these  Highlight for me was a guy who brought a huge collection of 1/87 (HO scale, I think) vehicles of various types -    Mental stuff.
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Mar 26, 2018 19:24
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That Cookie Monster is the stuff of loving nightmares  .
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Mar 26, 2018 19:31
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The cookie monster is from Monster Dork Studios. Among his other stuff, he's done a bunch of takes on cartoon characters and kids stuff.    
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Mar 27, 2018 00:45
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Greyhawk posted:Well done, Hedgehog, that's a lovely stain. How did you find cutting the mast and pump holes in the decks? Once you cut some of those holes there are planks that are only supported by other planks on the edges. Even with a good glue it seems a very week joint. I ended up cutting some support planks and gluing them under those sections, and then gave the underside of that whole deck section a generous coating of glue. It's pretty much hidden from site unless you get down low and look up into the pump well, so I thought it was worth it overall.
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Mar 27, 2018 01:52
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:How did you find cutting the mast and pump holes in the decks? I did the very same for at least one section I remember. No one (but a modeling judge) is ever going to look at the underside after all. Scharnhorst issue 37  Time for an intermission. We get to take a break from the planking marathon to fit a first batch of photo etch to the forward upper deck structures.
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Mar 28, 2018 12:56
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Anyone know where to get a B-24 Liberator in 1:32 Scale, preferably the Coastal Command type? A thing happened and I really need to build this.
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Mar 28, 2018 16:52
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Hello! I recently watched Master and Commander again, and then listened to the unabridged audiobook (which is cool but different), and concluded that my childhood obsession with sailing ships appears to have returned. I was going to spend $200+ to get a vintage LEGO pirate ship on eBay, but then realized that maybe I should actually build a more accurate scale model that I can paint myself. Having So, assuming that I do want to keep using acrylic paints, what can you recommend for primers that don't risk destroying details, and what paint would you recommend I use on something like this: https://www.hobbylinc.com/revell-germany-uss-constitution-plastic-model-sailing-ship-kit-1:146-scale-05472 Or should I just suck it up (blow it out) and finally get an airbrush? There's so much fine detail on sailing ships I can't imagine I'd get TOO much use out of it, but...eh. Maybe it's worth it if I want to do more than one of these.
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Mar 28, 2018 18:09
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Jobbo_Fett posted:Anyone know where to get a B-24 Liberator in 1:32 Scale, preferably the Coastal Command type? A thing happened and I really need to build this. Not sure if you are being facetious or not, but no such thing exists... Yet. HobbyBoss just announced a -24D and 24J kit in 1/32 to be released sometime in 2018. I, for one, am pleased by this announcement.
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Mar 28, 2018 18:23
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Gewehr 43 posted:Not sure if you are being facetious or not, but no such thing exists... Yet. HobbyBoss just announced a -24D and 24J kit in 1/32 to be released sometime in 2018. I, for one, am pleased by this announcement. I saw the announcement while I was doing some search but I couldn't find anything info on HobbyBoss on a specific date, and their NA retailer didn't even have a product page or news page for it yet. And no, I wasn't being facetious. I had a Great- person pass away recently, and he was a nose gunner with 224 Squadron. Not to get too emotional, but without him I don't think I've have near as much a passion for World War 2 and aircraft as I do now. I wanted to build and paint a 1:32 prior to the final goodbye, so to speak. Anyways, sorry for the extra info, I'll go back to shitposting and hoping the J comes out sooner rather than later  Edit: Have some photos from a museum I visited that happened to have a Coastal Command Liberator. It was pretty packed, so I only took a few lovely photos.  Nose Gunner - B-24 Liberator  Mustang  Battle of Britain Buchon  I believe this is a Kittyhawk Mk.III (P-40K) but the museum didn't have any information on it, oddly.  An allegedly fully functional MiG-21  Beaufighter awaiting major reconstruction  Front view of a B-25 Jobbo_Fett fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Mar 28, 2018 |
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Mar 28, 2018 18:32
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Jobbo_Fett posted:I saw the announcement while I was doing some search but I couldn't find anything info on HobbyBoss on a specific date, and their NA retailer didn't even have a product page or news page for it yet. It's not the scale you asked for, but Eduard recently released this limited edition kit. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/1122478-eduard-2121-riders-in-the-sky-1944 One of the marking options is a B-25 from 224 squadron.
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Mar 28, 2018 19:31
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