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Anne Whateley posted:Try something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072F4VMVL/ Haven't tried, but will be, thanks for the idea!
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Mar 16, 2018 16:20
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So I currently have a small, sad shelving unit that sits over my basement steps. I’m looking to replace with something like those Rubbermaid wire shelf kits however my issue with those is that they’re too deep and would stick out too far into the stairwell. I’ve been unable to find shorter shelves for those types of kits, anything else I could use aside from building some shelves myself? https://imgur.com/a/XWUlX
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Mar 17, 2018 00:47
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:So I currently have a small, sad shelving unit that sits over my basement steps. I’m looking to replace with something like those Rubbermaid wire shelf kits however my issue with those is that they’re too deep and would stick out too far into the stairwell. I’ve been unable to find shorter shelves for those types of kits, anything else I could use aside from building some shelves myself? How do you hope to improve upon your current setup?
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Mar 17, 2018 01:02
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H110Hawk posted:How do you hope to improve upon your current setup? H110Hawk posted:How do you hope to improve upon your current setup? I was hoping for uniform shelves going across the width from top to bottom.
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Mar 17, 2018 02:39
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:So I currently have a small, sad shelving unit that sits over my basement steps. I’m looking to replace with something like those Rubbermaid wire shelf kits however my issue with those is that they’re too deep and would stick out too far into the stairwell. I’ve been unable to find shorter shelves for those types of kits, anything else I could use aside from building some shelves myself? That Rubbermaid wire shelving is available in 12” and 9” depths, in addition to the common 16. You might have to special order, though.
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Mar 17, 2018 02:50
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The previous owner of my house is driving me nuts. I just replaced the 5th boob light in the house and it is the 5th one where the ground wire had been clipped off. I’ve only got 4 more to go. I can tell this used to be a rental because everything was done as cheaply as possible. When things were painted nothing was removed so most of the time to remove a light I have to pry it off the wall and scrap paint out of the screws. I also patched a softball size hole that had previously been patched terribly. I ended up cutting a 1’x2’ piece of drywall to fix the hole left by removing all the mesh that had been put up. The mesh had been put over what appears to be painters tape and then covered so sloppily that you could see the mesh still. I also had the pleasure of finding out that at least in that section the drywall is hung with adhesive instead of screws. There were screw holes in the studs from previous drywall I’m guessing. It was a blast scraping dried construction adhesive off of the studs so I could attach my replacement drywall piece. Tomorrow I think I’m going to go remove the screws that are randomly screwed in to the joists every 3-4”. They are only in like a quarter inch and nothing is attached to them. Not sure what the goal was with those. Sometimes I am tempted to just light it on fire and walk away. Edit: I just ordered flooring from Home Depot. The flooring is going to a store about 2 minutes away and the molding is going to another store 10 minutes away... Obsoletely Fabulous fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Mar 17, 2018 |
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Mar 17, 2018 21:43
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I've got some wood floors that basically have no wax. Any recommendation on what I could put down that dries quickly so it doesn't disrupt my cats' lives too badly?
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Mar 19, 2018 00:20
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Another issue I’d like to address, I’m looking to insulate my floors. The joists are exposed in the basement so installing it won’t be an issue, I’m just at a loss as to what type of insulation to use. I’m hoping to reap some thermal benefits as well as some sound dampening from the cold/echoey basement. I’ve seen stuff like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/133.3-sq-ft-Reflective-Roll-Insulation-(16-in-W-x-100-ft-L)/3775469 But I’m not sure if that’s recommended for this situation.
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Mar 20, 2018 23:41
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Another issue I’d like to address, I’m looking to insulate my floors. The joists are exposed in the basement so installing it won’t be an issue, I’m just at a loss as to what type of insulation to use. I’m hoping to reap some thermal benefits as well as some sound dampening from the cold/echoey basement. You'd want insulation batts, not reflective insulation. Rockwool would be my suggestion, as it's way nicer to work with then fiberglass (though I think fiberglass is a little cheaper) But, take a look at this http://www.energyauditingblog.com/should-i-insulate-my-basement-ceiling/
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Mar 21, 2018 00:38
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I've seen both solid insulation and fibre used, in either case stuffed between the joists. My house has fibreglass but then it wasn't me doing the installation. I'll leave the cost/benefit analysis to others, in my case it was to insulate the underfloor heating.
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Mar 21, 2018 01:07
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Loose fill cellulose. You're going to use a ton of it but so worth it.
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Mar 21, 2018 01:44
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H110Hawk posted:Loose fill cellulose. You're going to use a ton of it but so worth it. How do you stop it falling out if you have to do repairs to the ceiling?
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Mar 21, 2018 08:49
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You don't.
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Mar 21, 2018 09:56
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Hot water heater in the house recently started whistling, sometimes in real loud bursts. I don't really know poo poo about hot water heaters and home owner is out on vacation. Couldn't see any temperature gauges on it when I could look (I'm fat and hard to really get to all of the area around it. Is turning off the breaker to it and shutting off the water intake the safest thing to do until I can get a plumber here?
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Mar 21, 2018 10:04
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If you're not happy to go investigating I'd defo do that straight away. Worst case you get a plumbers bill, best case you stopped it exploding or scalding you.
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Mar 21, 2018 10:08
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cakesmith handyman posted:If you're not happy to go investigating I'd defo do that straight away. Worst case you get a plumbers bill, best case you stopped it exploding or scalding you. Well I'm broke as poo poo so probably not getting a plumber here until after homeowner gets back on Saturday. I'm cool not having hot water for a few days since I can shower elsewhere, but I'd like to not have anything explode or burn me in that timespan. Just making sure that turning the poo poo off should be sufficient to assume it's not going to gently caress up any worse while I sleep since it's like 5am here.
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Mar 21, 2018 10:11
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Zerilan posted:Hot water heater in the house recently started whistling, sometimes in real loud bursts. I don't really know poo poo about hot water heaters and home owner is out on vacation. Couldn't see any temperature gauges on it when I could look (I'm fat and hard to really get to all of the area around it. IANAP but that sounds awfully like the pressure relief valve firing, which is a Bad Sign. I wouldn't worry about it exploding (that's what the PRV is for, as long as nobody capped it off) but scalding or otherwise causing damage is a concern. FYI what you're looking for in this situation is not a temp gauge but a pressure gauge, I'm not sure about the US but in the UK you want a combi boiler to sit around 1.5 bar when running. Zerilan posted:Is turning off the breaker to it and shutting off the water intake the safest thing to do until I can get a plumber here? This would not be a bad idea. Are you able to get hold of the owner or their representative at all to clear you bringing in a plumber and claiming it back? Edit: Saw your update, ignore the question about the homeowner.
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Mar 21, 2018 10:12
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Zerilan posted:Just making sure that turning the poo poo off should be sufficient to assume it's not going to gently caress up any worse while I sleep since it's like 5am here. To my understanding, shutting off power and water-in while leaving the water-out open is the safest state, yes.
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Mar 21, 2018 10:13
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Jaded Burnout posted:To my understanding, shutting off power and water-in while leaving the water-out open is the safest state, yes. Ok yeah I didn't even see where to turn off the water out so it's untouched, assuming the one I think is the water-in is the water-in (the labels are pretty faded but the unwrapped parts of that pipe were really cold while the other pipe connecting to it was hot so I assume the cold one is the water-in), whistling stopped when I turned it off, as did the water draining out of it into a discharge bin or something around the bottom of it. edit: yeah ok double checked and the one I was looking to turn off is labeled as "cold," one labeled "hot" feels room temp now that the power's been off for awhile. Can't see a pressure gauge on it but no whistling or water discharge. Evrart Claire fucked around with this message at 10:30 on Mar 21, 2018 |
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Mar 21, 2018 10:16
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Label them while you remember 
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Mar 21, 2018 10:43
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It should be easy enough to notice which is which when I'm not like barely awake.
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Mar 21, 2018 10:46
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Zerilan posted:whistling stopped when I turned it off, as did the water draining out of it into a discharge bin or something around the bottom of it. Yeah this definitely sounds like the safety valve releasing pressure. Deffo get that checked out when you're able.
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Mar 21, 2018 12:18
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Zerilan posted:Ok yeah I didn't even see where to turn off the water out so it's untouched, assuming the one I think is the water-in is the water-in (the labels are pretty faded but the unwrapped parts of that pipe were really cold while the other pipe connecting to it was hot so I assume the cold one is the water-in), whistling stopped when I turned it off, as did the water draining out of it into a discharge bin or something around the bottom of it. If it's electric heated kill the breaker. This stops the heat which stops the pressure build up. If it's gas you can look at the controller module it will say how to shut it down. If it has a manual pilot light you can call the gas utility and tell them your water heater over pressure valve is opening and you can't figure out how to safely shut off the gas to it. Someone will be there same day to kill it. (and red tag it)
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Mar 21, 2018 14:29
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I’ve been living in my new house for about six months now, and I thought the out dated wood paneled living room would grow on me and start to feel cozy... but ultimately, the room just feels so dark (especially since the only window HAS to be blocked by the TV). The walls have nice wainscot on them, so I’d like to keep the paneling in, but what all would I need if I wanted to repaint over the paneling and wainscot? I’ve been told to use Kilnz (Kilz?) primer and then painting over it from there should be a breeze, but I need to get that verified.
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Mar 21, 2018 15:26
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Gin_Rummy posted:I’ve been living in my new house for about six months now, and I thought the out dated wood paneled living room would grow on me and start to feel cozy... but ultimately, the room just feels so dark (especially since the only window HAS to be blocked by the TV). The walls have nice wainscot on them, so I’d like to keep the paneling in, but what all would I need if I wanted to repaint over the paneling and wainscot? I’ve been told to use Kilnz (Kilz?) primer and then painting over it from there should be a breeze, but I need to get that verified. Just did this, can confirm. Kilz is good, prepare to do a couple coats rather than a single coat you will be tempted to apply too heavily. If you have nail holes you can fill those with some putty first. You might want to invest in some flow aid/extender to help get a really smooth coat (over the primer).
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Mar 21, 2018 18:51
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I'm looking to upgrade my shop lights and Costco has a decent deal on some LED strip lights. The lights have an outlet on them, would there be any issue if I plugged each light into the previous in a series? I was thinking of getting 4.
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Mar 22, 2018 15:11
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How big is your space? I'm sure they're meant to be daisy-chained together like that.
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Mar 22, 2018 15:20
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The ones with outlets built in are often designed to be daisy chained. LEDs are very low current so I would imagine unless your space is huge you would be fine.
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Mar 22, 2018 15:22
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cakesmith handyman posted:How big is your space? I'm sure they're meant to be daisy-chained together like that. Garage is around 12x20 feet. So I was thinking 4 spaced out and chained together would be more than enough. I figured they were intended to be that way, but wanted to ask to be sure. I really need to hire an electrician to run another circuit or 2 in there next. And to add more outlets.
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Mar 22, 2018 15:24
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keep it down up there! posted:Garage is around 12x20 feet. So I was thinking 4 spaced out and chained together would be more than enough. I have 3 florescent lights in a slightly larger space, 4 should be good for you.
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Mar 22, 2018 15:29
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Let's talk about bins. I need to outfit my house with some bins and I'm having a little trouble searching for the right thing and/or finding a supplier. Maybe one for the UK people? But also interested in whether people have innovative solutions for these needs. A lot of the bins I'm seeing in the usual locations are cheaply made, overpriced due to marketing guff, or the wrong opening type (pedal bins need to be high quality or they end up being frustrating). The usual suspects seem to sell a variety of pedal bins and almost nothing else. Anyway, I have these needs: - Several of something large volume, low price, non-pedal, and large-mouthed, lid optional, for recycling. - Several of something small and lidded for sanitary stuff in bathrooms. - Something medium volume and lidded for disposing of rat litter. Either pedal or pop top, no swing-lids. - Something medium-small volume for storing dry rat food, needs to be accessible enough to grab a handful. - Something large volume for storing and scooping clean rat litter. Doesn't need a great seal to the lid (if any). I've been trying to track down decent quality angled-opening cereal tubs for this but I'm coming up empty. I have a nice soft-close pedal-top kitchen bin which is well designed and well made, but not all of these use cases warrant a £100 bin.
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Mar 22, 2018 15:38
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I can't remember exactly where you are but places like Wilko's, B&M etc are really worth checking out for simple stuff like this. I have little black lidded bins that fit your bathroom/sanitary needs that I got from poundland of all places.
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Mar 22, 2018 15:49
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Hubis posted:Just did this, can confirm. Kilz is good, prepare to do a couple coats rather than a single coat you will be tempted to apply too heavily. If you have nail holes you can fill those with some putty first. You might want to invest in some flow aid/extender to help get a really smooth coat (over the primer). Did you do any sanding/roughing of the wood, or just apply the primer directly?
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Mar 22, 2018 17:39
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Gin_Rummy posted:Did you do any sanding/roughing of the wood, or just apply the primer directly? with primer you shouldn't need it (at least I didn't). It might vary with the finish, but the whole point of primer is that it adheres really well. Wiping it down with TSP (or at least a damp cloth to remove dust) beforehand would probably be a good idea.
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Mar 22, 2018 19:09
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keep it down up there! posted:I'm looking to upgrade my shop lights and Costco has a decent deal on some LED strip lights. The lights have an outlet on them, would there be any issue if I plugged each light into the previous in a series? I was thinking of getting 4. I think those are the new ones, a few months back they were still carrying basically the same thing in feit brand, or however you spell that. Just mentioning it because those would rather frequently go on sale down to $20 each. I stuck 5 in my garage, and had a decent light over my bench already. Love the result. Oh, and the old ones were also stamped that you could link up a maximum of 4. Raised by Hamsters fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Mar 23, 2018 |
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Mar 23, 2018 00:18
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Raised by Hamsters posted:I think those are the new ones, a few months back they were still carrying basically the same thing in feit brand, or however you spell that. Just mentioning it because those would rather frequently go on sale down to $20 each. I stuck 5 in my garage, and had a decent light over my bench already. Love the result. Ah dang, I bought 4 already! Oh well. The instructions actually say I can link up to 20. Which seems insane to me. But luckily I just need the 4. One snag I've hit is the chain mounts they come with don't even come close to clearing the gap bet ween the roof and my garage door, where I want to hang one of the 4 lights. So I guess I'll have to drill some holes through the base and flush mount it directly to the drywall ceiling. Hopefully that won't be an issue!
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Mar 23, 2018 15:07
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keep it down up there! posted:Ah dang, I bought 4 already! Oh well. LED lights are just amazingly efficient. 40w at 120v is .33 amps per fixture. 20 fixtures would be a hair under 7 amps.
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Mar 23, 2018 22:57
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Jaded Burnout posted:Let's talk about bins. Ikea sell these intended as recycling bins. They might do for your rat food and litter too. They seem to be made of tougher plastic than the generic cheap clear storage boxes everybody sells.
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Mar 23, 2018 23:52
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Tomarse posted:Ikea sell these intended as recycling bins. They might do for your rat food and litter too. That might do the job. I'll be heading to ikea tomorrow so I'll take a look while I'm there.
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Mar 24, 2018 00:33
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I have a 20+ year old hand-me-down couch that has pretty much given up the ghost, and I'd love to replace it this year. I don't know the first thing about buying good sofas, though, so I would love advice on it in general and specific recommendations (of specific couches or trustworthy) if you have any. I would love to keep the purchase below $1,000 but I'm willing to up up to $1,500 if it's a major quality difference. I'm open to different designs and materials. It's the centerpiece of my living room and also where I spend most of my time at home, so I really want to get this purchase right. Thank you!
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Mar 30, 2018 01:08
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