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Rhyno posted:The wheel is probably just rusted to the hub. Support the car on jack stands, get under it and give the wheel a few good kicks. IIRC, that's why tire irons have the flattened end. A mallet and harsh language are all the tools you need to get the wheel off
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Mar 29, 2018 03:11
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I've also seen a 4x4 and a mallet used to good effect by a tow truck driver.
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Mar 29, 2018 03:13
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There's also less safe ways to pop the wheel loose. Loosen the lugs, drive the car slowly and abruptly brake a few times.
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Mar 29, 2018 03:15
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I don't see that going well for me. But if tire irons, 4x4's , and mallets don't work - I'll try some shotgun braking. Thanks
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Mar 29, 2018 03:26
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Something to try before the driving/braking is to run the nuts back on loose and just drop the truck back down off the jack to try to jar it loose.
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Mar 29, 2018 03:48
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The Door Frame posted:IIRC, that's why tire irons have the flattened end. A mallet and harsh language are all the tools you need to get the wheel off Actually, the flattened end is for prying off a wheel cover/hubcap. Cars used to have ugly stamped steel wheels with one of these slapped over the top of it:  It's probably also useful for popping off a recalcitrant wheel, though.
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Mar 29, 2018 03:56
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Something to try before the driving/braking is to run the nuts back on loose and just drop the truck back down off the jack to try to jar it loose. Uh, yes. Do this first. I'm stupid.
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Mar 29, 2018 04:16
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2000 Chevy Malibu. My key has been stuck in the ignition and I need to disconnect the battery once I park or else it drains it. A couple weekends ago I removed the plastic cover on the shifter and sprayed some WD40 to see if it was catching on something and wasn't releasing the key but I didnt have any luck there. From there I removed the radio along with the A.C. controls and used a screwdriver to pop out the ignition. I swapped it out with another one I got from AutoZone to see if it would solve it but they new key had the same issue. It does not leave the car on ACC but it needs a milimeter or two of movement and it would release. I checked with the dealer and my car has a recall but the recall doesn't fix that. I've read online that it could be a solenoid contained within the gear shift mechanism, but I haven't attempted that yet. Can anyone help me out here? I don't wanna pay the dealership 180 to hook it up to a computer and tell me things I already know.
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Mar 29, 2018 05:35
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Rhyno posted:Manual says to only use this Mazda Coolant FL22 - Mazda (0000-77-508E-20). $25 a jug, not horrible. Ford's "Specialty Green" is also FL22. quote:Motorcraft Specialty Green Engine Coolant - PN# VC-10-A premixed, VC-10-A2 normal concentration Taken from here http://forum.mazda6club.com/speed6-engine-drivetrain/217750-ms6-fluid-notes-diy-pictures.html randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Mar 29, 2018 |
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Mar 29, 2018 05:38
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Once you have the wheel off, before you replace it make sure to clean the hub with a wire brush and some brake cleaner and spray some lithium grease on there to keep the wheel from sticking in the future.
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Mar 29, 2018 07:27
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Any reason not to use quickstructs when replacing struts? How is it possible these are so much cheaper (50%ish) than buying all the suspension components separately?
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Mar 29, 2018 11:47
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e:nm
Grakkus fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Apr 2, 2018 |
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Mar 29, 2018 12:25
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Chuu posted:Any reason not to use quickstructs when replacing struts? How is it possible these are so much cheaper (50%ish) than buying all the suspension components separately? lovely manufacturer? Otherwise do it.
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Mar 29, 2018 13:42
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Dennis McClaren posted:The wheel would not come off. The only time I've had wheels just pop off is when I'm doing something to a wheel a week after my mechanic had it up in the air for some reason. Otherwise, it always takes a few hard kicks and usually a few good whacks with a mallet. You aren't going to hurt a wheel or tire by kicking it or smacking it with a mallet. If you have fancy rims or super-stretched tires or something, maybe you have to be careful, but I can put everything into smacking the sidewall with a hard rubber mallet and nothing is going to be hurt. Tires are made of rubber and are inflated with air, but that's the end of their similarities with fragile things.
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Mar 29, 2018 15:02
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Try using the spare to hit it. A lot more mass and inertia than your foot.
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Mar 29, 2018 15:08
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To expand on ExecuDork's post, let's say one has a vehicle that weighs 4000 lbs with 50/50 weight distribution. That'd generally be way off on both metrics for a truck, but it makes the math easier. With that sort of a setup, every bump you hit on the highway is the force of 1000 lbs hitting the wheel/tire at whatever speed you're going. There is pretty much gently caress all you can do to damage the tire by kicking it or hitting it with rubberized tools. Sharp stuff is the only real danger, and I hope that'd be somewhat obvious. I live in salt country so my wheels are almost always rusted on every time I go to change them, no matter what I do. I just make sure the car is firmly on the jackstands with the tire just off the ground, then slip a leg under and give the tire a firm kick outward. Works every time. I do not recommend doing that in sandals though, brake rotors are very effective ways to remove a strip of skin from the side of your leg. wolrah fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Mar 29, 2018 |
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Mar 29, 2018 15:08
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Autoexec.bat posted:I think he means incompatible coolants can be the same color now, not that you can use anything anywhere. This is exactly what I was saying. For example, in 2012-13 Jeep changed coolant types. I can't even keep them straight, but one year was purple and the other was red, from the factory and maybe the dealer. But if you buy a gallon of the same spec anywhere else, or at other dealers, you'll find it's yellow (not bright green) or some other color which I forget. Don't get them mixed up! Good luck finding red coolant if that's what's in your system. You need yellow (2012) or the other one (2013). Colors are meaningless. Fine one that meets the spec. Mine is yellow/Zerex G05. Which isn't even stocked in many areas. Unbootable posted:2000 Chevy Malibu. Maybe this is a dumb question, but you do know about steering wheel locks? That can trap your key sometimes. Godholio fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Mar 29, 2018 |
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Mar 29, 2018 15:30
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I got the wheel off this morning in the daylight. Required a little PB blaster, and a few Kurt Russel Karate Kicks and off it went. Thanks everyone for the insight.spankmeister posted:Once you have the wheel off, before you replace it make sure to clean the hub with a wire brush and some brake cleaner and spray some lithium grease on there to keep the wheel from sticking in the future. Big ol' metal shiv was stuck vertically straight into the rubber.
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Mar 29, 2018 17:17
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New question. 2006 Durango SLT. The truck has two driving settings, either AWD or 4wd lock. Why is it important to put your best tires on the rear wheels, with an AWD truck? Someone told me this, and it confused me. With AWD, don't all the wheels turn at the same time? I understand why having your best tires on a RWD truck in the rear would be ideal, but not sure why it's important on AWD.
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Mar 29, 2018 18:20
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For both AWD and 4WD, it's way more important to have all four tires even. Having one axle worn more than the other makes the center differential work harder and can cause it to wear out prematurely. If one set of tires is worn enough to be questioning which axle to put it on, you should go ahead and replace all four. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Mar 29, 2018 |
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Mar 29, 2018 18:32
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In AWD mode the drivetrain primarily powers the rear wheels with power being diverted to the front if the rears slip. In 4WD mode it locks the center differential to split power constantly 50/50 front and rear. You'll want to drive in AWD most of the time, with 4WD being useful for driving out of slippery conditions - like if you get stuck in snow or mud. Generally you want your best tires on the rear because worn rear tires can cause the rear end to slide out, which gets exacerbated on a RWD vehicle where sudden throttle input can spin the rear tires, also causing the rear end to slide out.
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Mar 29, 2018 18:36
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Yeah, the reason you want your best tires on the rear is the same reason that a lot of vehicles in the early days of ABS only had it on the rear. If you lose traction in the front, you lose steering control but the vehicle will generally track straight. If you lose traction in the rear, you still have steering control but the vehicle becomes unstable and can easily spin. In general if you're going to crash it's safer to crash in a straight line, impacting with the front of the car, rather than playing roulette. This is also why front wheel drive is considered to be safer than rear wheel drive in bad conditions. Understeer is less controllable but it's predictable, oversteer can be controlled a lot better but if you lose it things can potentially go a lot worse.
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Mar 29, 2018 19:23
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Makes sense. I'll get the good ones on the rear until I can afford a new set. Thanks.
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Mar 29, 2018 21:34
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Deteriorata posted:That there's a slight wobble when unloaded doesn't matter much. If it wobbled like that with a car sitting on it, there would be a problem.
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Mar 29, 2018 23:16
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With the way that jack stand is built there is at least some load distribution. Because of the cross members there's no way it can be resting on only 3 of the legs with one leg unloaded. Is it an even 25% split across all the legs? Who knows. You'll be fine, especially since you're most likely not anywhere near the stress limits of the material. 2 ton jack stands, right? You've got either 1 of them support 1 quarter of the car, 2 supporting half or the load split across 4. Plenty of wiggle room.
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Mar 30, 2018 00:02
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Always have two backups when working under a car. That means three possible load points. If I'm jacking up just one corner of a car for something, I jack it up, toss two jack stands under there, and then pump the jack itself back up just enough so it's holding. If I'm going to be taking a wheel off, I jack it up, put it on a jackstand, take the wheel off and put the wheel under a corner, and also leave the jack up under there with a little bit of compression so nothing slips. The tire acts as one backup load point. It's five seconds to toss the second jackstand up under there, which is nothing for your life.
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Mar 30, 2018 00:09
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Dennis McClaren posted:Makes sense. I'll get the good ones on the rear until I can afford a new set. Thanks. What transfer case does that Durango have? If it doesn't have a true 2WD mode it might not be happy with a mismatched set of tires.
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Mar 30, 2018 04:04
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IOwnCalculus posted:What transfer case does that Durango have? If it doesn't have a true 2WD mode it might not be happy with a mismatched set of tires. This. Is it true AWD or is it an automatic 4 wheel drive? Automatic 4 wheel drives work on detecting slippage in the front tires and engaging the 4WD mode on demand. This is why a reputable tire shop will not replace only 2 tires on a vehicle with auto 4WD. I've even noticed that it can vary by area, for instance, in Northern Michigan, discount tire won't replace a 4WD vehicle except as a set, while down in Texas, they won't bat an eye at doing it. It nearly caused my mom's 2006 explorer to eat its own transmission because the car was reading the wear on the front tires as slippage and would constantly engage and disengage 4WD.
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Mar 30, 2018 04:21
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quote:Maybe this is a dumb question, but you do know about steering wheel locks? That can trap your key sometimes. Are you referring to when you rock the steering wheel back and forth and try to dislodge the key? My old Subaru would do this occasionally but I can't replicate this solution with the Malibu. I also tried knocking the key with a rubber mallet but no luck there.
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Mar 30, 2018 05:55
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Is bleeding brake fluid by only taking off a wheel at a time using a jack a bad idea? Other than being inefficient is it especially unsafe?
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Mar 30, 2018 14:43
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net work error posted:Is bleeding brake fluid by only taking off a wheel at a time using a jack a bad idea? Other than being inefficient is it especially unsafe? Use a jack stand to be a bit safer..
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Mar 30, 2018 15:20
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zharmad posted:This. Is it true AWD or is it an automatic 4 wheel drive? Automatic 4 wheel drives work on detecting slippage in the front tires and engaging the 4WD mode on demand. This is why a reputable tire shop will not replace only 2 tires on a vehicle with auto 4WD. I've even noticed that it can vary by area, for instance, in Northern Michigan, discount tire won't replace a 4WD vehicle except as a set, while down in Texas, they won't bat an eye at doing it. It nearly caused my mom's 2006 explorer to eat its own transmission because the car was reading the wear on the front tires as slippage and would constantly engage and disengage 4WD. Yes, this is Texas. I just simply don't have the money to afford 4 new tires right now. Not for another 2 months or so, cash is tight. My situation is 2 good tires, and 2 not great tires. So that's unfortunately all I have to work with for now. Just trying to arrange them in such a way that I don't blow out my trans in 2 months time from mismatched tire wear. (That's a little extreme though, isnt it?) Dennis McClaren fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Mar 30, 2018 |
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Mar 30, 2018 15:58
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A little, but as much as you're hoping, I think. If you can't afford tires, you can't afford a new transfer case.
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Mar 30, 2018 16:36
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Dennis McClaren posted:2006 Durango SLT. I think its an automatic 4WD? It's just one switch with only two driving options, dial on AWD, or dial on 4WD. quote:Yes, this is Texas. I just simply don't have the money to afford 4 new tires right now. Not for another 2 months or so, cash is tight. I can't find whether your transfer case has an actual differential or just a viscous coupling. If it has an actual differential it should be able to tolerate mismatched tire sizes, if it's a viscous coupling you can overheat the transfer case fairly easily by having a mismatch.
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Mar 30, 2018 16:52
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These are all posts from Dodge Durango forums regarding 2001 Durangos. Mine is a 2006, and a diff model year, so not sure if they apply... "The NV244 doesn't have a viscous coupler. It's got a locking differential in it that when in AWD mode is open and allows the front and rear driveshafts to turn at different speeds. " "The R/T has a full time tcase that uses a planetary differential. It's similar to a gear driven limited slip, so the potential for it to wear out is very limited." "I believe it's a viscous coupling; unlocked 50/50 f/r with an open front diff." No one seems to have a definitive answer. I'm sure this seems like trying to fix a sinking ship with duct tape - but I'm just trying to prevent the truck from making GBS threads out the trans until I can afford 4 new tires in May 2018.
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Mar 30, 2018 17:06
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Squashy Nipples posted:I have a battery back up system for my auxiliary sump pump. It has two deep cycle batteries, Glentronics Pro Series B-2200. Here is the owner's manual in PDF: Do we have a boat thread? After doing the actual checking on the batteries, I really need to replace them. Battery 1 shorted out yesterday and burned off most of the fluid in two of the cells. Off the recycling center with that one. Battery 2 still shows 12.5 volts standing, dropping to 10.5 under load. 4 of 6 cells showed GOOD for specific gravity, and two were only FAIR. After disconnecting the bad battery, I reset the sump pump controller/charger unit so it would run it's test cycle. It still considers the remaining battery to be no good, and based on my testing I agree. But, I might try saving it as follows: shake it up, do the 4-inch drop a few times, pouring out all the fluid, rinsing with distilled a few times, and replacing with brand new acid. But, maximum Amp Hours and longevity are pretty important in this application, so I might just replace them both. Two questions remain: 1. Is there any reason to buy a sealed battery? They want $270 apiece on Amazon for the sealed ones. I don't mind topping off with distilled water, but are there any performance advantages/disadvantages to the sealed ones? The sealed ones are AGM/glass matt. 2. Is there a cheaper alternative for deep cycle batteries? I've had a really hard time comparison shopping. Again, max performance is pretty important here, so I don't want a weaker battery.
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Mar 30, 2018 17:48
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Just for giggles, a picture of my set up. EDIT: UPDATE Got through to a tech at the controller manufacturer, got the real scoop. I can NOT use the sealed ones, because my controller is older, and it can't handle the different charging profile of the sealed AGM batteries. It will start to give false-positive "bad battery" alarms after about a year. And the wet ones are 140 Amp Hours, so that lets me comparison shop. Squashy Nipples fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Mar 30, 2018 |
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Mar 30, 2018 17:54
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Dennis McClaren posted:These are all posts from Dodge Durango forums regarding 2001 Durangos. Mine is a 2006, and a diff model year, so not sure if they apply... It does seem like the NV244 is the most likely transfer case, and that one does seem to have a planetary differential. If it is just an open diff it *should* be fine with minor differences in speed. If it has limited slip type functionality it probably will not be ok with it. The one article I can find digging in to it from a technical standpoint indicates that mismatched tires are very bad for it, but also says that it's an open diff so I don't really know how that makes sense. A stupid solution which might work for you would be to remove the front drive shaft and just leave the truck in off-road 4WD mode (probably called 4-Hi or 4-Lock). At that point you've effectively made it a RWD truck and can treat it as such until you can replace the tires. If you do this, mark the flanges when you take the shaft off so you can match the orientation when you put it back in. Make sure to leave it in locked 4WD mode, if you put it in to AWD mode with the front shaft removed you'll either not go anywhere or if the center diff is in fact sensitive you'll fry it fast.
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Mar 30, 2018 19:40
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I'm prepping to do my first-ever home spark plug swap. I've been watching videos and reading the car manual and whatnot, and I've got all the parts I needed assembled except for one thing: compressed air for cleaning out the spark plug well. So I have two stupid questions: 1) The service manual for my car (2013 BMW 328i) implies that I first remove the coil, then used compressed air to blow out the dirt in the well, and then remove the old plug. Is this the right order of tasks? 2) The answer is probably "no, dumbass," but can I use a can of compressed air for this job? If not, what's the least expensive setup I can get away with? This may literally be the only spark plug change I ever do, so I'm not eager to spend too much. On the other hand, I'm still saving about $300 in labor by doing it myself, so if it costs $100 to clean my spark plug wells, and I get some equipment out of it, I'm still coming out ahead. Actually, a third stupid question: 3) My plugs came in the box gapped at .025". I found the gap for them for my car listed as .031" on NGK's site and .032" on Jeg's. I gapped them myself using a gapping tool, which was a bit nerve-wracking. I hope I didn't damage the pucks. How big are the tolerances on plug gap? Are .031" and .032" basically the same, or do I need to track down exactly which one is correct?
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Mar 30, 2018 20:29
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Sure you can use a can of air duster, why not?
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Mar 30, 2018 20:35
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