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wesleywillis posted:Is there a standard torque spec for fasteners that isn't application specific? Not really. A given torque translates roughly to a particular clamping force along the bolt's shank; how much force you actually need depends on what you're clamping together, how much cycling the force goes through, heat cycling, how many total bolts there are and in what pattern, etc. There's also preload to take into account, which might be more of a factor than actually holding the pieces together. The best you could probably get would be the yield torque for a particular thread/grade combo, but even then some bolts are torqued beyond the yield point (see: a lot of modern head bolts).
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Apr 1, 2018 02:41
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Doctor Party posted:Yeah I've used those blue tooth plug in deals and they're meh. I've had a few different models. That's why I am thinking either replace the actual radio or just live with it until I get a new car.
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Apr 1, 2018 02:52
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2002 Toyota Corolla (1ZZ-FE engine) Oil Change time, in my haste to get out of the Mad Max hell-hole that is Penrith I grabbed 5W-30 instead of the 10W-40 that I used previously. My gut feeling is that it's not such a big issue but I thought I better check. I really need my car for the next few weeks so if I have to drive 2 hours return to change it, I will.
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Apr 1, 2018 07:55
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slothrop posted:2002 Toyota Corolla (1ZZ-FE engine) Good news, 5W30 is what that car is supposed to use.
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Apr 1, 2018 08:00
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Enourmo posted:Good news, 5W30 is what that car is supposed to use. Awesome, thanks e: Actually that rings a bell. I recall last time I did the oil change I was confused that SuperCheep recommended 10w40 when the North American spec was 5w30. Do they likely do this because Australia is ~special~ and hot? slothrop fucked around with this message at 11:03 on Apr 1, 2018 |
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Apr 1, 2018 08:19
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93 Capri NA The throttle pulses/surges when it goes above 4.5k RPM, but only in first gear. There's a million fixes on a 25yo car that would address problems like this, but I can hit the rev limit in second and third gear, no problem. That inconsistency confuses and worries me The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 09:37 on Apr 1, 2018 |
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Apr 1, 2018 09:10
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My husband's car isn't in really good shape. It's a 2001 Toyota and while it has been reliable for years, recently we've had some trouble with it. Namely the check engine light sensor is broken so the light stays on all the time. We were quoted a ridiculous sum for fixing this, something like $400-1200 so we have just let it ride since the problem is with the sensor. It was in pretty decent shape with just a few dings from over the years but last year my husband gently rear-ended someone and while it didn't do a single bit of damage to her car, it fudged up the front left side of ours. The hood is slightly bent up on that side and the head light has been pushed back a bit from where it should fit. The light is functioning but the plastic casing is cracked. Like the cheap assholes we were, we just taped up the light since it worked. So he's driving a full on hooptie now. The question is this: we're going to be getting him a newer used car next year, probably something just a few years old. Is it worth it to fix the stupid O2 sensor and the cosmetic damage to the front when fixed it would only be worth like $2000-2500? I'm feeling like we'd already be close to that in repairs. If we don't fix it, how do you go about selling such a lovely car?
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Apr 1, 2018 13:44
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With an accident history you're going to get a really lovely trade-in value at most dealerships if you decide to go that route. You're likely looking at a repair bill that rivals the worth of the car. I wouldn't fix it unless you guys want to keep it. If it's been good it might be more financially prudent to drop $2k on it and drive it for a few more years. Otherwise your best bet is to sell it cheap to whoever wants to buy.
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Apr 1, 2018 14:19
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JibbaJabberwocky posted:My husband's car isn't in really good shape. It's a 2001 Toyota and while it has been reliable for years, recently we've had some trouble with it. Namely the check engine light sensor is broken so the light stays on all the time. We were quoted a ridiculous sum for fixing this, something like $400-1200 so we have just let it ride since the problem is with the sensor. It was in pretty decent shape with just a few dings from over the years but last year my husband gently rear-ended someone and while it didn't do a single bit of damage to her car, it fudged up the front left side of ours. The hood is slightly bent up on that side and the head light has been pushed back a bit from where it should fit. The light is functioning but the plastic casing is cracked. Like the cheap assholes we were, we just taped up the light since it worked. So he's driving a full on hooptie now. No, its not worth it. Any money you put into an old, beat-up car like that before you sell it, is just money you are throwing away. No one is going to pay extra for that car to compensate you for the money you just dropped into repairs on a car you are about to get rid of. You won't get that money back. Either sell it for what you can realistically get for it, or call the cash-for-junk cars people and get $400 cash out of it when you wave your goodbyes. As for selling it - you can try 3 really good apps/sites used mostly for selling older cars like yours - Offerup Letgo and of course, Craigslist. List the old Toyota for $1000-2000 or whatever you think you can get out of it, on those 3 sites. Shouldn't be long before its gone. Good luck.
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Apr 1, 2018 14:47
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slothrop posted:Awesome, thanks Yes, that's a thing. Lots of vehicles have ambient temperature ranges where they recommend thicker oil.
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Apr 1, 2018 15:50
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IOwnCalculus posted:I agree, and I've certainly let some cars go way too drat long without plugs (never did touch them on my Ranger) if they're a pain in the dick to do. The 100k plugs I pulled out of my CRV looked drat near new; the wrong-heat-range 30k plugs I pulled out of my WJ were loving roasted. But neither had any notable reduction in fuel economy or performance. I've never pulled platinum plugs out at/near the end of their recommended lives that didn't have the gap opened up by less than .05 over spec. That's a sample size of two vehicles, but just because they're not burned or fouled doesn't mean they're like new. Also gently caress every company who makes it a pain in the rear end. Looking at you, Jeep. There's no reason the intake manifold should have to come off.
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Apr 1, 2018 17:14
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By spec, do you mean NEW spec? It's expected that the gap will grow so EOL gap over initial spec is just fine.
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Apr 1, 2018 18:20
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Godholio posted:Looking at you, Jeep. There's no reason the intake manifold should have to come off. Never change, Chrysler. Never change. 
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Apr 1, 2018 18:37
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I have a little hatchback and I am looking to get a hard tray for the bottom of the hatch for doggos that are dirty or other things that could make a mess/be a pain to have to constantly vacuum. I honestly have no idea where to look or what such trays are even called? Covers? Liners?
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Apr 1, 2018 22:55
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Cargo area protector. Weather tech sells them. However I’d recommend a soft cover that hooks into the rear seat head rests and covers the whole hatch area. This captures all the hair and avoids dirty dogs touching everything. Like this: https://www.chewy.com/kh-pet-produc...cB&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Apr 1, 2018 23:01
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totalnewbie posted:By spec, do you mean NEW spec? It's expected that the gap will grow so EOL gap over initial spec is just fine. So is burning a quart of oil every thousand miles. There's "just fine" by mfr standards, and there's "just fine" by consumer standards and they don't necessarily align. How much of a gap is ok is something that'll vary for different engines and driving styles. But putting off routine maintenance tends to cause more problems than it solves, particularly when we're talking about a vehicle that's relatively easy and cheap to do the work on.
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Apr 2, 2018 00:15
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2008 Ford Focus, 2.0 petrol, auto trans, BLACK. When you press the brakes, the park light filament lights up. If you have the lights on, and press the brake light, everything turns off. Both brake light globes are installed correctly. Edit: both rear brake light connectors are powering up properly. Could I possibly have two faulty light globes? Memento fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Apr 2, 2018 |
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Apr 2, 2018 03:21
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slothrop posted:Awesome, thanks I could maybe see going to 10W30 so the oil sticks better at summer ambient (cold engine) temps, but I can't think of a particularly good reason to go to 10W40. The second number is how thick the oil is at running temp, and your engine should be running about the same temperature regardless of weather. Realistically though, running one weight class higher then recommended (5->10, or 30->40) probably isn't gonna significantly hurt anything other than like a 0.1% fuel economy drop. That's from the era when Corollas were still un-killable cockroaches.
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Apr 2, 2018 05:26
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Once cars get older and tolerances inside get a bit sloppier from wear, it can help to use slightly thicker oil to make them run smoother and burn less oil, at the expense of slightly worse fuel economy. I use 5W40 in a car that takes 5W30 and it runs nice on it
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Apr 2, 2018 08:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:Is it a shudder when braking, or while driving at a constant speed? Under braking, yes, just do a pad and rotor swap. Raybestos and Centric are solid brands. It's a shudder at constant (highway, 55+) speeds. Originally the shop thought it was due to old tires, so I had the front ones replaced. They rebalanced then, but the shudder was still there. So I brought it back and had it rebalanced again, and it's still there. The brakes/rotors are original at 60k miles, so they're due anyway.
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Apr 2, 2018 15:00
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Memento posted:2008 Ford Focus, 2.0 petrol, auto trans, BLACK. I would A-check your brake fluid level, then B-replace the switch on the back of the brake pedal. It was really easy on my 2002. No tools required.
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Apr 2, 2018 15:19
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Godholio posted:So is burning a quart of oil every thousand miles. There's "just fine" by mfr standards, and there's "just fine" by consumer standards and they don't necessarily align. How much of a gap is ok is something that'll vary for different engines and driving styles. But putting off routine maintenance tends to cause more problems than it solves, particularly when we're talking about a vehicle that's relatively easy and cheap to do the work on. I'm speaking from the manufacturer point of view (for which I have a pretty good perspective/understanding). Specified gap size is for initial gap and growth (well beyond the initial spec) is normal and expected. I agree that you should generally change the spark plug according to manufacturer's recommendation, but you shouldn't make judgement based on gap size alone. One sign that a spark plug has ended its life is, when you remove the plugs, if you can see little lines running down the insulator. Those are marks left by voltage leaks, which now indicates that the plug isn't doing its job well and so has reached its end of life. On the other hand, even if your gap is large, if there's no signs of voltage leaks, no signs of fouling, etc., then the plug could probably stay in the car longer. Doesn't mean it has to, or necessarily should, but just that no harm would have come to your car if you had just left the plugs in. Of course, to check out the state of the plugs means removing them, at which point you might as well just put new ones in.
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Apr 2, 2018 15:29
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spankmeister posted:Once cars get older and tolerances inside get a bit sloppier from wear, it can help to use slightly thicker oil to make them run smoother and burn less oil, at the expense of slightly worse fuel economy. I’m about 3k miles from my next 10k Mobil 1 EP oil change and I’m tempted to switch, though I wonder if it’ll leak oil.
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Apr 2, 2018 15:33
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Why bother?
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Apr 2, 2018 15:33
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Godholio posted:Why bother? edit: Actually it just occurred to me that outside of long trips, I spend less than $500 on gas each year so I guess it's not worth the risk. Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Apr 2, 2018 |
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Apr 2, 2018 15:55
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JibbaJabberwocky posted:The question is this: we're going to be getting him a newer used car next year, probably something just a few years old. Is it worth it to fix the stupid O2 sensor and the cosmetic damage to the front when fixed it would only be worth like $2000-2500? I'm feeling like we'd already be close to that in repairs. If we don't fix it, how do you go about selling such a lovely car? I doubt you'd get $2K out of your car if it was in better shape (i.e. no body damage, no check engine light, acceptable O2 sensor etc.). You didn't say what model of Toyota it is, so I'm assuming it's a Corolla, but even an Avalon would be hard to justify $2500 on when it's 16 years old. When you're ready to sell it, put it on Craigslist (or equivalent, I dunno where you are) for $1500 or best offer (or pick another number that you're OK with, keeping in mind it's the opening to a negotiation and you won't actually receive that amount). Post GOOD pictures, and be honest about the issues. Then deal with the inevitable CL shittiness (I suggest vodka) until somebody takes it off your hands and you never have to think about it ever again. If it doesn't move after some time limit (a few weeks?), phone around your local junkyards and take the best combination of they-pick-it-up and cashmoney. A running, licensed and insured car with issues is worth a few hundred bucks at most JYs. If you drive it to one and take the cash at the gate, you'll get a bit more. Bring whatever tools you need to remove the license plates. Alternatively, this is tax season, so perhaps this is already on your mind: if you donate it to something like the Kidney Foundation (many charities take cars) you'll get a nice big donation receipt that you can apply to next year's taxes. That might or might not be worth it to you.
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Apr 2, 2018 16:06
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Ok, I understand how to read gear ratios, but I don’t know why I would want specific gears. For instance if someone asked if they should run 4.10 or 5.13 I wouldn’t know what to pick or why
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Apr 2, 2018 19:28
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Bigger number = More turns of shaft for wheel turn = more torque, less speed. So, it's a balance of engine HP/Torque numbers to desired power at certain wheel RPM. Just like a bicycle. If you have one pedal crank to one wheel turn (1:1, or 1.0 gears), it takes a poo poo-ton of force to get going. But if you have three pedal cranks to one turn (3:1, or 3.0), it's easier to go, but slower. When people, especially old Mopar guys, are throwing around rear end gear numbers, like 5.10 or 4.13, they're generally doing so under the assumption that, in the conversation, all other things are equal. Specific chassis (weight)/engine/transmission. So you'll have two old farts shooting the poo poo about a specific pickup truck and tossing those numbers around in convo, and in doing so they're just postulating on possibilities. A car with a 500hp engine, all thing being equal, will be able to "tolerate" taller gears much more easily vs an 80hp version of the same car. But is the vehicle being designed for a hill-climb, a rally, a straight-line race (and, if straight-line, is it 1/2, 1/4, or 1/8 mile?), or a circuit course? If you put a 2.10 rear end on a Geo Metro, it'll barely be able to pull away from a stop. But if you put a 5.x rear end on the same car, it won't be able to pass 55mph without revving out, unless you change the transmission gearing. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Apr 2, 2018 |
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Apr 2, 2018 19:45
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:It's a shudder at constant (highway, 55+) speeds. Originally the shop thought it was due to old tires, so I had the front ones replaced. They rebalanced then, but the shudder was still there. So I brought it back and had it rebalanced again, and it's still there. You'd be surprised how long brakes can last if the car isn't driven hard. Did they rebalance all four tires or just the new ones? Have you hit any potholes recently that could've bent a wheel? It'd be very unlikely for brakes to cause vibration under non-braking scenarios, and warped* rotors would present as a pulsation in the pedal, not necessarily the whole car. *I know they don't actually warp every time but shut up Karma Comedian posted:Ok, I understand how to read gear ratios, but I don’t know why I would want specific gears. For instance if someone asked if they should run 4.10 or 5.13 I wouldn’t know what to pick or why To add to what MGS said, for anything reasonably modern (with at least five gears in the transmission), the factory generally does a decent job of picking a good all-around final drive gear for the vehicle in its stock configuration. It's a bigger issue in older vehicles with four/three/two-speed transmissions, where the tradeoff between acceleration at low speeds and highway comfort is much harsher. Even with a big V8, rear end gears in the 3.0x or below range are going to feel lazy on any car with a three-speed automatic, but it should deal with 65+ more comfortably than the same car with 3.73+ gears. If you've got a modern overdrive transmission, you'd generally only want to do gears after you've made other major changes. For example, if you put a big cam in the engine, you'll want a looser torque converter and shorter gears, both to work with the fact that you have poor performance at very low RPM. Or if you have a truck/Jeep that you put tall tires on, you'll need gears to offset the increased diameter of the tires.
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Apr 2, 2018 20:23
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Where can I find the pinout for a Ford 2007 F150 wiper motor? I don't actually have an F150 but I want to use the wiper motor for a project and I'm having an uncomfortably difficult time finding this simple information. I gather this motor was used across a number of mid-2000 Fords. Part number is 2L2F-17D539-AD. I'd rather not buy a Haynes manual just to figure this out :[ e: It's got a twelve pin connector: 
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Apr 2, 2018 |
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Apr 2, 2018 21:51
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IOwnCalculus posted:You'd be surprised how long brakes can last if the car isn't driven hard. Idk what they did the first time (I think they may have only balanced the front two they replaced), but the 2nd time they balanced all 4 tires. The shudder is just as bad, if not worse. I don't know if it has hit any particularly bad potholes. My wife drives it mostly.
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Apr 2, 2018 22:32
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tactlessbastard posted:Sounds like I should change the spark plugs. As it turns out, the interval is not in the manual, but online I found out it's 100k. (I was phone posting from the backseat of a minivan when I first asked.) Fortunately, I was bored while feeding a calf Sunday morning and remembered taking the car in once for a tuneup at around 90k miles back in 2011 and I called the place up and they were able to pull the invoice and confirm that they had done the spark plugs at the time. The next time spark plug replacement comes up in the bastard household will be when Mrs. bastard's odyssey hits 105k, which at the current rate will be approximately 3 years. Thanks, all.
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Apr 2, 2018 22:59
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:
Not to disagree with any of this, it's a great post, but this analogy temporarily broke my brain. 3:1 on a bike means for every one rotation of the crank the back wheel rotates 3 times. They measure from front cog to rear cog. So 1:1 is the easiest gearing, (with ratios easier than that being quite rare) and 3:1 is a pretty aggressive gearing that's miserable to get going. On a bike three pedal cranks to one wheel turn would be a 1:3 gear ratio and almost completely unheard of. I think maybe this is confusing because the car gearing is rearend:motor instead of crank:wheel like on a bike? someone help
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Apr 2, 2018 23:41
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Breakfast Feud posted:They measure from front cog to rear cog. You're confusing me with this. Because front:rear would be 3:1 pedal/wheel with that explanation.
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Apr 2, 2018 23:50
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Breakfast Feud posted:Not to disagree with any of this, it's a great post, but this analogy temporarily broke my brain. 3:1 on a bike means for every one rotation of the crank the back wheel rotates 3 times. They measure from front cog to rear cog. So 1:1 is the easiest gearing, (with ratios easier than that being quite rare) and 3:1 is a pretty aggressive gearing that's miserable to get going. Bikes are geared up, cars are geared down.
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Apr 2, 2018 23:56
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Every single expression of gear/pulley ratio I've ever seen has had it [input speed]:[ouput speed]. So that bike ratio would be written 1:3, or maybe 0.33:1 (the former is more accurate but some people like the output to always be 1, so  ).Bikes can be geared up because it doesn't take much force to move a bike over flat ground, so you can make the tradeoff of increasing effort in exchange for way higher top speed than you could ever run at.
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Apr 3, 2018 00:49
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Bikes are weird because you're not comparing speeds, the ratio is always tooth count front:rear. They just have to be different because ~bicycles~. You guys are absolutely correct in input/output speeds but as someone who's main familiarity is with bicycle gear ratios hearing 1:3 just takes a few seconds to parse.
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Apr 3, 2018 01:45
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Josh Lyman posted:According to the crazies on Priuschat, it gains you 1.5-2 mpg which would increase my mileage by about 4%. I'm not a hypermiler in any sense but that seems pretty substantial. I don't for one second believe you gain that much. Every manufacturer would be mandating for every vehicle to pick up a 4% gain in mpg. They'd be tripping over each other to do it.
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Apr 3, 2018 06:13
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I don't think it's 4%, but 0w20 has had very wide adoption across manufacturers.
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Apr 3, 2018 06:16
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I wouldn't be surprised at about a 1% increase. Over a few hundred thousand vehicles, that makes good sense for the mfr. Anywhere approaching 4% and it would've made the news.
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Apr 3, 2018 06:21
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