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What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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| Perennials! |
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142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
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30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
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62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
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171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
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60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
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31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
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183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
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Mr. Vile posted:
Oh my lord... Hello gorgeous!
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Mar 31, 2018 14:04
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| # ? May 14, 2024 00:54 |
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The Snoo posted:
Thanks  I just saw you said you had jalapeño plants. I love jalapeños but where I live now jalapeños are rarely for sale and the ones that do make it to the markets here are like 0 on the spicy scale. I always buy a handful on the occasions I see them but every time I’m disappointed by how flavorless and non spicy they are. How often can you harvest jalapeños from your own plants? If it’s not too much effort and if it means I can eat jalapeños every week that would be something I’d like to do.
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Mar 31, 2018 14:40
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Repotted a bird of paradise for my parents last weekend. To say it was "pot bound" is kind of an understatement.  After about 2/3 of the roots were removed.  Aftermath.  Back in its place! 
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Mar 31, 2018 16:35
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Mr. Vile your sundew is incredible
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Mar 31, 2018 16:57
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I can't ID any of those, but they look pretty nice! The tall Sarracenia is definitely a hybrid/cultivar of some sort. I'll share some of mine once they're out of dormancy. I think I'm dealing with something like thrips or mites too, and that's a pain in the rear end to get rid of.
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Mar 31, 2018 17:07
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Reformed Tomboy posted:Repotted a bird of paradise for my parents last weekend. Definitely root bound! Luckily Strelitzia enjoy being slightly root bound, keyword being slightly.
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Mar 31, 2018 17:33
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Plant MONSTER. posted:Definitely root bound! Luckily Strelitzia enjoy being slightly root bound, keyword being slightly. I repotted directly in the large pot. I figure that will hold it another 10y before someone repots it again. It used to bloom but hasn't in close to 5y. Hopefully it will again now it has room (and actual soil). I still need to do their ficus, but the roots came out the bottom of that pot so I'm not looking forward to the attempt.
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Mar 31, 2018 18:48
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Mr. Vile posted:
It looks like one to me, and AFAIK capensis is the most popular variety to grow.  It's been a while since I grew those, but one thing I'd note is that they're looking a little overcrowded in there. Plant MONSTER. posted:Definitely root bound! Luckily Strelitzia enjoy being slightly root bound, keyword being slightly. As someone who grew up in a place where strelitzias grew three feet tall (and quite a bit wider around) in the garden, I'm kinda amazed they grow well in pots. That said, apparently money trees (Pachira aquatica) grow up to 60 feet tall in the wild, so 
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Mar 31, 2018 22:25
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Lead out in cuffs posted:As someone who grew up in a place where strelitzias grew three feet tall (and quite a bit wider around) in the garden, I'm kinda amazed they grow well in pots. It's not a small pot, 18" diameter, prob 24" deep, and the plant itself is another 2-3 feet tall. It used to be in the ground, my grandfather tended them in his backyard. After he passed we dug one up, and this is it. It's been repotted once in nearly 20y, so it was past time for it to be done again (as evidenced).
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Apr 1, 2018 00:54
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Boris Galerkin posted:Thanks this is my first time growing them from seed or otherwise, so I have no idea! my parents did a lot of different hot pepper plants in their garden over the years and had a good supply of them throughout the summer and into the early fall, though. they've dug up a few to try to keep going in the greenhouse through the winter but it rarely worked out. they used to have enough cherry peppers to pickle several jars worth. these are also seeds from dollar tree so I don't know much about the quality of the peppers themselves, but I do know homegrown is always better  mine are going to be in pots on the balcony but I think they'll do okay. I'm hoping to do two different tomatoes and I have various herbs I bought that are yearning for warmer days. might as well make as much use of the full sun as possible! hopefully someone else can give you a better answer than I can! haha
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Apr 1, 2018 04:41
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Plant MONSTER. posted:Oh my lord... Hello gorgeous! Harry Potter on Ice posted:Mr. Vile your sundew is incredible Thank you!  Lead out in cuffs posted:It looks like one to me, and AFAIK capensis is the most popular variety to grow. Yeah, that and the Sarracenias need repotting. The tall Sarracenia in particular has welded itself to the tray matting by growing through the bottom of the pot.
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Apr 1, 2018 21:20
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I should have asked this when I began trying to grow succulents and cactii from seed, but whatever: Watering. I've read two distinct advice: one says that you should only mist, because you don't want to overwater (and thus, encourage rot), but others say that succulent and cactii seedlings love water so you should water and hope/pray that your soil mixture is decent enough that it drains out. Again, this is kinda a "everything says the opposite" thing, but I'm beginning to get depressed over how few my seedlings sprout, and I'm not sure if it's general incompetence or Doing poo poo Wrong.
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Apr 5, 2018 04:22
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“Hoping/preying that your soil mixture is decent enough that it drains out” is something you need to research friend goon  I’m sure there are people posting here that can give you advice on whatever the optimum soil/sand/gravel/etc mix is .
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Apr 5, 2018 06:56
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I've got a Bignonia capreolata (tangerine beauty) on my balcony that has been without leaves since October/November and I initially assumed it was due to winter but it's April now and my honeysuckle has had leaves for a couple weeks. I thought it was dead so I did a little pruning today and found that even though the tips were completely dead the thicker parts were still green/live. What can I do to help the leaves come back and encourage growth? I picked up some 4-5-6 liquid fertilizer last week for my flowers that I could apply to this one
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Apr 5, 2018 10:24
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I think I've managed to identify my larger Nepenthes as Nepenthes sanguinea, still no idea on the small one with the tiny pitchers though.
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Apr 5, 2018 13:56
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I also have a succulent related dirt question - I tore out half my lawn and the soil under the sod is more clay than I expected. It's not like make a clay pot in a kiln clay, but typical dense Socal housing tract clay. If its moist and I squeeze it together in my hand, it will hold the shape. We want to plant succulents and other similar low water plants. Should I add gypsum and other amendments to the whole thing? Can I just dig out a wider hole for each plant and add the correct soil that I need? The more I read, the worse I think the conditions are, but life finds a way, right?
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Apr 5, 2018 16:46
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Clay will always drain badly, you would be better off with raised beds/planters/pots. You can dig out and amend but with poor drainage all you end up with is a big swampy gravel filled plant killing hole.
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Apr 5, 2018 17:56
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learnincurve posted:Clay will always drain badly, you would be better off with raised beds/planters/pots. You can dig out and amend but with poor drainage all you end up with is a big swampy gravel filled plant killing hole. I let dandelions and weeds and some poo poo I can't remember grow in my puddle spots without mowing for a full year. The deep root structure plants really made a difference, the clay is still not great but it doesn't pond any more.
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Apr 6, 2018 01:51
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Thought I'd post some pics from over the long weekend. A grevillea, an Australian native - I think this is G. whiteana. Grevilleas are really common garden plants here, and there are dozens of varieties. They are great for attracting birds.  A protea (I think?), from South Africa. No idea which species.  Bonus dahlia, one of the pompom types.  FogHelmut posted:I also have a succulent related dirt question - There are plenty of extremely drought hardy plants that aren't succulents and that will thrive in clay-based soils, and I bet there will be some native to Socal. Go out to your local nurseries and ask around. Obviously it will depend on the species of succulent, but in my experience they prefer sandy to loamy topsoils - you'd be struggling uphill there. You can improve your topsoil, even if it is clayey. Dig in lots of compost and cow manure into the top 100 mm, maybe plant a cover crop like wildflowers, beans, peas, lupins, whatever, and give everything time, for the bugs to convert all that food into humus and the plant roots to loosen up the structure. Eventually you'll get sometime more like a clay loam. Gypsum is suitable for clay soils that have high levels of sodium, which you can easily test for, but otherwise it won't improve things. Applying organic matter is a longer-term solution. Discomedusae fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Apr 6, 2018 |
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Apr 6, 2018 13:34
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FogHelmut posted:I also have a succulent related dirt question - Life, uhh, finds a way. I forget the name for it, but there's a way to plant succulents basically on top of the ground in a pile of sand and gravel without making a planter. Then there are some succulents that are tough enough for clay anyway, like false yucca. As for adding stuff to amend the soil, it can help, but you may have to add WAY more than you think, then when you've basically doubled your soil, you gotta figure out where to put your surplus dirt. Edit: false yucca is weird in itself. For an outdoor succulent, it can grow a lot farther north than people think. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Apr 6, 2018 |
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Apr 6, 2018 21:42
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I mean, as much as I want to worry about it, it not pure clay. After messing around with it, its a little more sandy than I realized. I think its just heavily compacted. I'll till it or whatever. As far as life finds a way - last summer a jade plant split in half. I tossed the branch in the corner by some weeds on top of some dead grass. It seems to have rooted itself, so I'm sure everything will be fine. 
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Apr 6, 2018 23:44
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Boris Galerkin posted:Thanks I planted 3 jalapeno plants in the garden last year and had more than I could use. I still have a gallon bag in the freezer, and a couple jars of lazy pickled jalapenos that are almost certainly past their eating date--it's just 'fridge pickling', so the jalapenos stay crunchy but they don't get the sterilizing + sealing effects of proper canning. The recipe's good though: (makes 4 pints) Vinegar mixture: 2 1/4 cups vinegar 2 1/4 cups water 2 T honey or sugar To each pint jar add: 1/2 t kosher salt 1/2 t peppercorns 1/4 t whole cumin seeds 1/4 t whole coriander seeds 1 bay leaf 1 whole garlic clove Put the spices in the bottom of each jar, then pack your jars with sliced peppers, fill with hot vinegar mixture and put on lids. You can either stick them in the fridge & eat them soon, or break out the pressure cooker and do it proper (this will make the jalapenos soft, though). Edit: you don't get red/ripe jalapenos in the grocery store much, but they're also quite nice.
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Apr 6, 2018 23:57
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I'm a huge fan of propagation. Either by seeds, division, layering, or cuttings, even grafting once. I've researched micro-propagation quite a bit and bought most of the stuff but never got around to it. Plants make great gifts in a pinch and sometimes they keep growing! I've had a lot of difficulty with woody stemmed plants and trees. I've had alot of success with Monstera deliciosa (Large split leaf philodendron), it roots itself. I like to root pineapples from the store, I cut off the top, then peel back a few leafs, there's already some root starts in there, then ill put them on the top of a spaghetti jar and change the water out every couple days. Spider plants are easy too.. I have way too many of them. they propagate themselves. Right now I have a Hass avocado that originated in La Habra California (That's where the very first one came from) I grew it from a pit with toothpicks. I also have whats being branded as a "slimcado", "Florida avocado", and "Dominican avocado" grown the same way. I had the opportunity to get some root cuttings from Hawaii, so my mom got some plumerias and hibiscus as well. It's a pretty lax hobby that suits me well. If I forget about them I can just make more. Thanks for all the plant porn! -basher
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Apr 7, 2018 05:21
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kid sinister posted:Life, uhh, finds a way. Does anyone have much experience with humates/humic acid? I've heard it (along with liquid KO- applications) can be very effective at breaking up clay into useful soil.
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Apr 7, 2018 14:48
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Re: cuttings Every guide always says to “cut above the node” and I’m still not sure what that means. So, by above do they mean towards the rest of the tree (what id consider “above” or upstream) or towards the end of that branch (what id call downstream)? I’m trying to root a ficus lyrata from a leaf+woody stem cutting right now. I hope it works out alright.
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Apr 7, 2018 15:12
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There really is no shortcut with clay, you just got to do literal spadework. Beth Chatto pioneered the “right plant right place” philosophy and it’s worth looking into, if you have clay, plant things that like clay. If you want to plant things utterly unsuitable for clay then get a planter - gives you the exact conditions the plant needs and you can control nutrients, drainage, sunlight, temperature and so on. Honestly, it often works out cheaper than trying to modify as well.
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Apr 7, 2018 15:15
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Boris Galerkin posted:Re: cuttings When they say node they mean the little bumps new leaves and branches grow out of. you can cut as long or short as you like so long as you cut just above a lumpy thing.
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Apr 7, 2018 15:17
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learnincurve posted:When they say node they mean the little bumps new leaves and branches grow out of. But which side of the lumpy things? Towards the tree or away? That’s the part I don’t get 
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Apr 7, 2018 17:29
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Boris Galerkin posted:But which side of the lumpy things? Towards the tree or away? That’s the part I don’t get Away
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Apr 7, 2018 18:06
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This is the answer. Why is because when you cut you stimulate that end bud to grow, and you don’t want it to grow inward towards anything that would cause cross branches and rubbing
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Apr 7, 2018 18:45
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Hubis posted:Does anyone have much experience with humates/humic acid? I've heard it (along with liquid KO- applications) can be very effective at breaking up clay into useful soil. Also, daikon radishes, a season or two ahead will break up clay soils really well.. they throw down a tap root really deep then when you cut them off they rot right there in place leaving organice material to compost, feed worms, and other microbes.
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Apr 8, 2018 00:41
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Basher posted:Also, daikon radishes, a season or two ahead will break up clay soils really well.. they throw down a tap root really deep then when you cut them off they rot right there in place leaving organice material to compost, feed worms, and other microbes. -basher 
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Apr 8, 2018 00:48
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Boris Galerkin posted:Re: cuttings You may find this helpful. It gives a good pictorial to describe cutting above the node. It's also my preferred method of rooting because it costs almost nothing to do. https://cleverbloom.com/root-plant-cuttings-water/
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Apr 8, 2018 01:53
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Boris Galerkin posted:Re: cuttings Cutting above the node (ie, on the other side of the node from the main trunk) is correct for pruning something off a plant, but once you have your cutting, you want to actually trim away any stem below the bottom node. That is, you want the bottom of your cutting, the cut, to be just below an entire, undamaged node, not in the middle of a length of stem and with a node way above it. You can remove the leaves or stems from this bottom node so it can fit into your pot/glass of water/whatever. We do this because the new roots will develop at the cut. The nodes are one of the main growing points on a plant and contain a high proportion of unassigned cells that can become root cells. They will root more quickly and vigorously than internodal tissue, with less chance of failure. Some things are trivial to strike, and others are very hard, but this is the general principle used in propagation by cutting.
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Apr 9, 2018 08:22
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Friend gave me some square pot bottoms a while back and I've just been using them to catch water which has resulted in some birds using it as a bath which is pretty awesome, I'm going to get a little bird bath soon as I'm getting the pots to go with the bottoms. one of the pots turned out to be GIGANTIC, and it was the small one. The tray is 42x42cm and I swear the pot is 50cm high or something, it dwarfs the hibiscus pot. Considering I'll need at least 20L of soil to fill this thing I was wondering if it's okay to just fill the bottom with hydroculture to reduce the soil required? Probably just 5-8cm of the bottom will be filled in, I'm not doing this for extra drainage.
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Apr 10, 2018 13:31
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Broken up polystyrene is always how I’ve seen it done.
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Apr 10, 2018 13:45
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If I had some I'd use it. I just have a bag of hydroculture left over from a dumb purchase (I thought I could use it instead of perlite) that I'd finally be able to make use of.
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Apr 10, 2018 14:51
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Boris Galerkin posted:Re: cuttings A "node" is a where a leaf grows out of and where side buds start, potentially becoming branches. Make your cut just down branch of a node. We make cuts there because that's where new branches can form, along with some more reasons. Any wood left down branch from the nearest node to the cut made can't develop new growth, so it's a useless part of the plant. Often it withers and dies. Now plants heal by growing over damage, so cutting back to the node has 2 other purposes: it eliminates needing to prune that dead bit later, giving the plant the soonest opportunity to begin healing over that lost wood. Ideally you should make the smallest cut possible so that the plant has to heal the least. Pruning has several purposes. To remove dead or diseased stuff, to remove branches rubbing against each other, protecting nearby structures, for ornamental plant shaping, keeping a plant at a certain size, as well as promoting healthier growth. There's only so much growth juice flowing down a branch. By removing the terminal bud (the one at the tip), you will prevent that branch from getting any longer, forcing side buds to develop and the base of that branch to become thicker and stronger. This is useful for developing strong scaffolding branches in fruit trees that will be able to support a full branch of fruit come fall without snapping from the weight. You can also use that to train some vines into being trees, like wisteria. Finally, there's root pruning. One way to force plants to flower is to intentionally damage them. The reasoning is something like making the plant think "crap, I can't survive here, I'd better make babies ASAP so that they have a chance to grow farther away from this spot". It's useful for fruit trees and some flowers that just refuse to put out blooms. No flowers, no fruit. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Apr 10, 2018 |
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Apr 10, 2018 16:57
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Boy I've been keeping an eye on it and I think I managed to defeat my awful nutsedge plague! Took like 3 months and getting rid of half the soil in my beds. Finally I can do some 'scaping.
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Apr 10, 2018 20:30
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I spent a large chunk of today clearing out the bind weed infestation before it gets a start this year. gently caress that plant.
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Apr 11, 2018 03:30
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