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HardCoil posted:In the ~$700 price range, is there ANY reason not to get a Prusa Mk3 as your first printer? Build volume 
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Apr 5, 2018 20:46
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mewse posted:Build volume The delta is basically for people who want to print a poo poo ton of miniatures and nothing else.
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Apr 5, 2018 20:50
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I meant the Prusa's build volume might be the only reason you'd consider something else. Cartesian or CoreXY with a 300x300x300 volume might be more desirable.
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Apr 5, 2018 20:54
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HardCoil posted:In the ~$700 price range, is there ANY reason not to get a Prusa Mk3 as your first printer? - You want to print full sized stormtrooper helmets, or some poo poo - You want the printer to come assembled or mostly assembled - You want a printer this month Nephzinho posted:The delta is basically for people who want to print a poo poo ton of miniatures and nothing else. What has delta configuration to do with printing miniatures?
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Apr 5, 2018 20:58
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BMan posted:- You want to print full sized stormtrooper helmets, or some poo poo I might be thinking of something else, the tiny resolution tiny build area monoprice printer that is like $100.
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Apr 5, 2018 21:27
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Nephzinho posted:The delta is basically for people who want to print a poo poo ton of miniatures and nothing else. I actually kind of want to print a poo poo ton of miniatures with the Prusa I bought. I was thinking that getting the minimum resolution layer of .05 would be hard out of a nozzle as wide as .4. Would it be a good idea to buy a smaller nozzle, like .2, or even a smaller "experimental" nozzle from E3D? I intend to muck about experimenting with stock stuff to learn how everything works, but I'm thinking longer term for when I know the printer inside and out, and am ready to really see what I can get it to do.
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Apr 5, 2018 22:23
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NeurosisHead posted:I actually kind of want to print a poo poo ton of miniatures with the Prusa I bought. I was thinking that getting the minimum resolution layer of .05 would be hard out of a nozzle as wide as .4. Would it be a good idea to buy a smaller nozzle, like .2, or even a smaller "experimental" nozzle from E3D? I intend to muck about experimenting with stock stuff to learn how everything works, but I'm thinking longer term for when I know the printer inside and out, and am ready to really see what I can get it to do. 0.2 is fantastic for resolution, but you'll get hit fairly hard by print times. If that's not an issue then you'll love the result you get from a 0.2 for the 5 dollars it'll cost you to buy one
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Apr 5, 2018 23:15
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Got a Hobbyking Fabrikator Mini V2 on a whim to have a small parts printer for my home desktop, they were on offer for £140 or less with shipping. Theres a couple V1s locally and apart from the build platform limit they print alarmingly well for the price, especially if you add a parts fan. The V2 expands the build envelope to 100mm cubed from the previous 80mm and adds: new punched sheet aluminium frame, heated PEI bed, parts fan/duct, new steel extruder gear, new electronics with SD card (included) and wifi connection. When mine arrived there were some loose screws on the z-bushing clamps, this was annoying because I had to almost split the frame to reach them but it was only an hour or so work. Our kittens were very interested in the new noisy family member, Penny even started talking to the printer when it made more cat-like chirps.  The print quality is still top notch too, sample gcode on the included SD card was a fun mystery so I loaded the sample PLA and hit go once I had it back together.  Inside it's pretty much a masterclass in building to spec on a tight budget. The frame is largely screwed together directly into threaded aluminium sheet, so you have to be super careful not to strip out screw holes if you need to service it. It uses closed MXL belts on NEMA 11 for the X and Y (and another NEMA 11 for the Extruder) but swaps in a consumer-device style stepper for the z-screw, which appears to be just a standard M4 threaded rod with some kind of super cute anti-backlash nut on the carriage. Being so small all the smooth rods are tiny diameters 4-6mm and it uses bronze bushings throughout. It's absolutely amazing what they included for the price.
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Apr 6, 2018 01:15
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So I ordered my first 3d printer last week, The FLSUN QQ delta printer(so excited). Does 260mm diameter by 370mm prints. Aliexpress was doing an anniversary sale last week and I snagged it for $330. I have read at least one person say that they couldn't get Octoprint to work with it reliable and they think the reason is that the board is overwhelmed by the USB querying because of the extra power it takes to do the trig calcs a delta printer does. Don't know if that is true or not. The unit comes with and ESP8266 based wifi module but it is tied to some chinese cloud based printing site that I am not interested in at all. I found this open source esp8266 and esp32 based firmware called ESP3D that looks like it does practically everything Octoprint does minus the camera part. Anyone here have any experience with it? I was thinking about trying it on one of the spare dozen WeMos chips I have.
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Apr 6, 2018 02:29
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Something about naming your printer  seems like brilliant trolling.
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Apr 6, 2018 03:15
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It was named QQ because it was the follow up to the FLSUN Q. Name aside, it had pretty good reviews and was reasonably cheap.
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Apr 6, 2018 16:19
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BMan posted:- You want to print full sized stormtrooper helmets, or some poo poo Thanks, that's kind of what I figured. The Delta's print volume is actually not that much larger, and I'm fine with glueing my stormtrooper helmet together from multiple parts.
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Apr 6, 2018 18:44
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HardCoil posted:Thanks, that's kind of what I figured. The Delta's print volume is actually not that much larger, and I'm fine with glueing my stormtrooper helmet together from multiple parts. I meant larger printers like the CR-10, that Velleman one is actually a smaller volume than the Prusa, though slightly taller in the Z axis.
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Apr 6, 2018 19:04
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Yeah I know☺️ I think I want a smaller printer to start with.
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Apr 6, 2018 19:27
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HardCoil posted:Yeah I know☺️ I think I want a smaller printer to start with. Get this one if you're just at the loving around stage of things, then: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21711
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Apr 6, 2018 19:29
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Get this one if you're just at the loving around stage of things, then: This is what I did. Good printer but after 3 weeks I already want the MK3.
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Apr 6, 2018 19:35
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Get one of those, too. Then get a CR-10 for your random gently caress-off huge vase prints or whatever. I made this on the MPSMv2 linked above yesterday (scaled each piece to 72% so the largest piece would fit in the build area, then printed them all in 4 print jobs). https://www.thingiverse.com/make:474394 EDIT: I'm printing this thing right now, scaled to 75% so the biggest piece would fit, etc. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2381619 Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Apr 6, 2018 |
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Apr 6, 2018 19:35
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ClassH posted:This is what I did. Good printer but after 3 weeks I already want the MK3. Yeah, this exactly. I know myself well enough to see that this is precisely what will happen.
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Apr 6, 2018 20:25
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HardCoil posted:Yeah, this exactly. I know myself well enough to see that this is precisely what will happen. I used a random i3 printer but after finding out what you need to do an upgrade like putting in levelling: Hope that a guide was written for your specific printer and the type of upgrade Risking writing off support if you upgrade to manufacturer unsupported firmware because the firmware in your printer was super old and doesn't have support for that hardware I had a Pegasus and working to include quality of life changes was a nightmare UNLESS you bought the lot from makerfarm. Something like the mk3 did relive me of a lot worry and headache when the guy who made the original design of the majority of printers out there offers you a printer that says "kick back. Make some solid prints"
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Apr 6, 2018 20:47
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A week into owning a CR-10s and I attempted my first "big" multi piece project. Used blender to chop up a 3d character, design a joint, and boolean it in all over the place. Took 14hrs originally to print. I didn't really know what I was doing at the time, so I printed all the pieces in the same direction as one big print job.  Here's the shared thing if anyone is interested: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2851814 With the cleaned up parts, print time might be halved. You can actually manipulate individual pieces now, instead of printing it as one big static piece like I did.
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Apr 7, 2018 03:57
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So I gave the Hatchbox wood filament a try and got this result using Cura 3: * The nodules that are on that model, I get those with standard PLA but not as many. What typically causes those nodules? As a side question: I've been using an Xacto knife to clean them up but I am curious what other folks are using. * The torch went to hell, any recommendations on tweaks for that? I had layer height at .175 so I was next going to drop it down to .1 to see if I get any better.
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Apr 7, 2018 23:12
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You might need a bit more retraction, or it may also be a little overextruded. Here's an enclosure I printed. I had a lot of stringing because my retraction settings are low but I cleaned it up somewhat with a hobby knife (the micro swiss all metal hotend said to keep retraction at like 1mm max so it's just kind of something I have to deal with, I guess). I figure the thinness of the walls and the texture of the material (being wood dust in plastic) may be giving it a bit of the rough finish but I've been considering increasing my flow rate a little bit and trying it again. I'm also going to be sanding it a bit before using it. Click for huge:  It looks really rough in the photo but it's only 10cm long so it doesn't look as rough to the eye. Since it's wood based I was planning on giving it a stain after sanding which will probably give it more of a wood grain look instead of all cratered.
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Apr 8, 2018 01:35
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Lowen SoDium posted:I found this open source esp8266 and esp32 based firmware called ESP3D that looks like it does practically everything Octoprint does minus the camera part. Anyone here have any experience with it? I was thinking about trying it on one of the spare dozen WeMos chips I have. I’d never heard of this but I’ll give it a try, thanks.
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Apr 8, 2018 13:28
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Rexxed posted:You might need a bit more retraction, or it may also be a little overextruded. I’m still trying to figure out all the knobs on slicer settings. Thanks for the feedback, I’ll check out those settings.
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Apr 9, 2018 05:17
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So, some progress. My printer is pixie-hosed still but I've managed to create an extremely rough and slow profile that works(?) I'm using that to print off my hypercube parts and some spares just in case then it's time to take my cr10 to the glue (hypercube) factory Edit: remind me to never go to Facebook groups for any sort of assistance 
Jestery fucked around with this message at 09:25 on Apr 9, 2018 |
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Apr 9, 2018 09:17
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Jestery posted:Edit: remind me to never go to Facebook No problem friend.
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Apr 9, 2018 10:43
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Has anybody set up Octoprint on their work LAN via Ethernet? I'm trying to configure a new installation for a 3d Printer at my desk buy it doesn't ever seem to be assigned an IP address so that I can SSH into it and finish setup. Any ideas? Does an already-existing ".local" domain on the work LAN screw up setup?
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Apr 10, 2018 16:36
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Has anybody set up Octoprint on their work LAN via Ethernet? I'm trying to configure a new installation for a 3d Printer at my desk buy it doesn't ever seem to be assigned an IP address so that I can SSH into it and finish setup. Sometimes your router will pick it up and add it to dns, sometimes it won't. Mine's been a problem with Octoprint, it just won't let me use a name to access it. I usually scan the devices on my LAN with something like Fing on my cell phone or this little netscan program for windows to find its IP: http://www.mitec.cz/netscan.html I know that guy's website looks like it was made in 1990 but I've been using that program for years just to find what's on what IP address. You can also just login to your router and look at the DHCP reservations.
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Apr 10, 2018 16:46
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Does an already-existing ".local" domain on the work LAN screw up setup? Yes. Octopi provides its octopi.local hostname through a protocol called multicast DNS which is OK for a home network but an obnoxious thing to put on a business network. You should ask your IT dept if they could give you a static IP for the device, or maybe if you give them the MAC address they could set up a DHCP reservation for a specific IP.
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Apr 10, 2018 16:46
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Oh, I missed that it was a work network. Maybe don't scan the work network.
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Apr 10, 2018 16:47
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mewse posted:Yes. Ah. That shouldn't be a problem because the in-house IT guy is nerding out over the printer. Rexxed posted:Oh, I missed that it was a work network. Maybe don't scan the work network. I've already been running scans with AngryIPScanner looking for the Octopi to pop up as a device (I have full access to the network, being in the engineering department and having to output things to so many machines on the network, both in the office and on the actual CNC machines in the shop).
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Apr 10, 2018 17:12
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Get the in-house IT guy to fix it, then. FWIW we have octoprint running fine with the .local domains on our university network. You just can only access the printers via that address if you're on the same subnet. The actual IP is required if you're somewhere else on campus.
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Apr 10, 2018 17:16
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Doesn't OctoPrint display the IP address on the printer, or is that a plugin I've added and forgotten about?
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Apr 10, 2018 19:14
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wolrah posted:Doesn't OctoPrint display the IP address on the printer, or is that a plugin I've added and forgotten about? That's a plugin that you've probably forgotten about, also probably won't work on the Monoprice Maker Select Mini.
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Apr 10, 2018 19:25
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Ah. That shouldn't be a problem because the in-house IT guy is nerding out over the printer. Plug a monitor into it and boot it up. I think it says the ip when dhcpd starts - or you can get a keyboard and just login to find it.
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Apr 10, 2018 20:29
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Decided to track down and read through this thread once I saw my new printer (Anet A8) burned down a few places on Reddit. Time to replace a bunch of parts.
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Apr 10, 2018 22:54
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Captain Capacitor posted:Decided to track down and read through this thread once I saw my new printer (Anet A8) burned down a few places on Reddit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VK_K6fp4BIk
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Apr 10, 2018 22:56
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Anyone have a MK3 in here? I've been seeing a few things about the layers not quite aligning properly. I was probably going to pull the trigger on the kit later this month or next if everything is ironed out.
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Apr 11, 2018 14:10
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I have a MK3. Quite happy with the quality, haven't noticed any alignment problems.
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Apr 11, 2018 15:07
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foosel posted:I have a MK3. Quite happy with the quality, haven't noticed any alignment problems. Did you do the kit or buy it assembled?
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Apr 11, 2018 16:06
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