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Hey y’all: I found a 2005 XC70 for sale- clean exterior and interior, ran a Carfax and it’s been regularly serviced at the same dealership it’s whole life, got the timing belt changed at 90k, two owners, 118,xxx miles. What is that car worth? I’m getting a range of 3k-4k. Is this a car worth buying, or does it have some possible demons I should run from screaming? Edit: reading the last page tips towards it being a good idea, but I’d still love to hear from some people because the more info I have for my wife the better! SapientCorvid fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Apr 11, 2018 |
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Apr 11, 2018 17:10
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ionn posted:This weekend me and Invalido are doing a double-header timing belt change on a pair of Volvos. A 1998 V40 2.0T (B4204T), and a 2002 V70 2.4 (B5244S2), both featured previously in this thread. They have the exact same timing belt kit, which we got two of. Belt, idler, tensioner, water pump. SKF branded (at one point the parent company of Volvo!), but not sure who actually makes the non-bearing parts of it. Yeah I use a thin layer of RTV to glue the paper gasket to the pump and then a thin layer on top of that. Probably overkill. On the 02 you'll want to turn the engine 90° past TDC and then back, which will unload the variable timing pulley. Not super critical but makes the job easier. Otherwise the pulley springs away from its mark when you take the belt off, and you have to hold it while putting the belt on. Of course all that matters is that the marks line up when the belt is back on. And note that the crank timing mark lines up with the root of a tooth not the top. There will be two notches in the teeth straddling the valley to align. Also before you begin this job pop the timing covers off (one bolt) and visually make sure they both have the same tensioner, I would have thought the 98 would be old generation with the piston vs the new eccentric spring version on the 02. McStephenson posted:Hey y’all: No major red flags on that generation, all the big bugs have been worked out. There are some major wear items but nothing that will catch you off guard and drain your retirement like the earlier ones. Find out what fluids have been changed, the dealership usually won't do that but it'll triple the life of the car. Transmission, angle gear, haldex, and rear diff are once every 100k types of fluids. Earlier if any towing has been done. Also check for any leaks of any of those. Do you have access to the dealer service records? If it's a Volvo dealership they should have its whole life documented. Get that if you can. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Apr 11, 2018 |
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Apr 11, 2018 17:14
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LloydDobler posted:No major red flags on that generation, all the big bugs have been worked out. There are some major wear items but nothing that will catch you off guard and drain your retirement like the earlier ones. Find out what fluids have been changed, the dealership usually won't do that but it'll triple the life of the car. Transmission, angle gear, haldex, and rear diff are once every 100k types of fluids. Earlier if any towing has been done. Also check for any leaks of any of those. I’ll call the dealership after I speak with the husband of the family selling the car: the wife called me and told me they want 7500 for it, which lol nope. Pretty sure the highest that car should go for is 4500-5k at the very most
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Apr 11, 2018 17:37
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I agree in general but if it's mint you'll save the difference in maintenance costs.
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Apr 11, 2018 17:51
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LloydDobler posted:Yeah I use a thin layer of RTV to glue the paper gasket to the pump and then a thin layer on top of that. Probably overkill. Such lavish exuberance!? I would have thought just having more "sealing surfaces" meant higher risk of failure. if I just mess up any of them or they somehow fail it will leak. My thought was that if RTV silicone can be used "safely" (it's possible to clean surfaces well, put silicone on pump, and move pump into place without inappropriate touching of other parts with sticky goop). Maybe both silicone and gasket is the way to go. For both these cars this is likely the last timing belt they will ever get, so there is little concern for how easy this is to remove. LloydDobler posted:On the 02 you'll want to turn the engine 90° past TDC and then back, which will unload the variable timing pulley. Not super critical but makes the job easier. Otherwise the pulley springs away from its mark when you take the belt off, and you have to hold it while putting the belt on. This is excellent advice, thank you. I don't have a cam locking tool for Volvo and I was hoping it wouldn't be necessary to get one. This will help in that. LloydDobler posted:Also before you begin this job pop the timing covers off (one bolt) and visually make sure they both have the same tensioner, I would have thought the 98 would be old generation with the piston vs the new eccentric spring version on the 02. The car parts website I got it from had exactly the same parts for both of them when I entered the car details (lookup via license plate, but they have the engine code and everything), so I hope they are correct. The 2.0T (B4204T) was new for the 1998 model year, so it may be a bit newer than the mid-90's engines. Humbug posted:I did the timing belt on my 850 with the B5252S last month. I'm no expert but a big thing is having a low profile T45 torx drive for the tension pulley that doesn't foul on the wheel well. I ended up using a box end imperial wrench directly around the bit. The Biltema torx kit bits didn't fit for me (you're in Sweden right?) but with the shorter 2.0T, that might not be such a huge issue. You're talking about the tensioner for the serpentine belt, right? I have possibly the very same Biltema 71516 torx bit set. Hadn't thought much of it but it looks like access might be difficult if I need to stack bits, bit holder and ratchet. Maybe I should just get a 3/8" wrench to be safe (I have a set of inchie wrenches, but they're in the wrong location at the moment). Could even get a bunch of those L-shaped torx things and just return them if I don't need them. How I often roll, buy all the tools at Biltema and just keep the ones that prove useful. Some items I have bought and returned more than once. The four-cylinder engine is a whole cylinder shorter, but the V40 engine bay is also narrower (though probably not by quite that much). There are some other differences in what stuff goes where (power steering and coolant reservoirs, fuse boxes, ECUs and such) so the amount of room is a bit differently shaped. Another general question on the topic: There's at least one youtube video where the dude does not remove the serpentine belt pulley / harmonic balancer from the crankshaft, but just wrangles the belt around the pulley after removing the bottom cover part. Is that a good idea? It seems to me that unless the pulley is seized and stuck, it's better to remove that for better access and visibility. Are those small bolts likely to break, or could the center one just be very very stuck?
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Apr 12, 2018 13:11
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It's a very high torque nut so it can be a pain to remove the crank pulley. Especially without an impact wrench. I'm going to try not removing it on my next timing belt job and see what's what. On the older cars there was an oil cooler fitting super close to the pulley that made it nigh impossible to get the belt out. That's gone on the later cars now.
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Apr 12, 2018 16:26
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S40 and V40 are coming back to the states with the 2019 models?! Yes!
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Apr 12, 2018 17:38
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LloydDobler posted:You should ask these questions on turbobricks, there are a couple old saltys there who are still experts on the BW35. They told me to get the one from Amazon, so I did. I'm going to try and do the change this week. First time doing a pan gasket but everything looks really accessible and it appears to be a cork gasket in there already rather than messy RTV, so it seems as straightforward as:
The final step reminds me that I need to call around and find somewhere with a sufficient supply of Type-F fluid since the O'Reillys down the street usually only has 1-2 bottles on the shelf.
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Apr 12, 2018 17:47
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LloydDobler posted:It's a very high torque nut so it can be a pain to remove the crank pulley. Especially without an impact wrench. I'm going to try not removing it on my next timing belt job and see what's what. I hope I don't have the oil cooler stuff on there. Have never seen an oil cooler mounted on any such engines other than the T5, but have never had to look for the fittings. It looks like the crank pulley bolt can be reached with a breaker bar and a decently long extender, but that would make it iffy for high torque stuff. The torque specs I randomly googled say 180Nm which is fine to torque down but could be hell to open. I have a battery powered Milwaukee M18 impact gun that I don't expect to be enough, but we can probably rig things to use the air one. The 3-phase outlet is quite a bit away and we do not have long enough air hoses or 3-phase extension cords, so we'll try running it through garden hose (which should be fine pressure-wise). Comedy option is to jam a breaker bar and socket in there and crank the engine.
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Apr 12, 2018 20:12
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Pham Nuwen posted:The final step reminds me that I need to call around and find somewhere with a sufficient supply of Type-F fluid since the O'Reillys down the street usually only has 1-2 bottles on the shelf. Get it from Amazon too. You can probably buy it by the gallon. They price match wal-mart regularly so I buy all my oil and coolant from Amazon now. ionn posted:It looks like the crank pulley bolt can be reached with a breaker bar and a decently long extender, but that would make it iffy for high torque stuff. The torque specs I randomly googled say 180Nm which is fine to torque down but could be hell to open. I have a battery powered Milwaukee M18 impact gun that I don't expect to be enough, but we can probably rig things to use the air one. The 3-phase outlet is quite a bit away and we do not have long enough air hoses or 3-phase extension cords, so we'll try running it through garden hose (which should be fine pressure-wise). Comedy option is to jam a breaker bar and socket in there and crank the engine. That reminds me, there is a gap on the back of the motor for the torque converter bolts. It is also suitable for jamming a screwdriver in to the flywheel gear and locking the motor while you crack the crank nut loose or torque it. Here's a pic: 
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Apr 12, 2018 20:51
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Ah, good to know. The V40 is manual so I figured I can just put it in gear and step on the brakes to lock the crank in place, but the V70 is automatic and might need that treatment.
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Apr 12, 2018 21:03
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LloydDobler posted:Get it from Amazon too. You can probably buy it by the gallon. They price match wal-mart regularly so I buy all my oil and coolant from Amazon now. It takes 8.5 loving quarts, goddamn. There's a pack of 12 quarts of Mobil Type-F on Amazon for $65, though, which is probably about as good as I'll get.
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Apr 13, 2018 00:46
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LloydDobler posted:Also before you begin this job pop the timing covers off (one bolt) and visually make sure they both have the same tensioner, I would have thought the 98 would be old generation with the piston vs the new eccentric spring version on the 02. The tensioner tension is rising. After looking a bit deeper, it seems Volvo changed this during 1998 (for V/S40, and varies a bit with engine type). A couple of parts places list both kinds of tensioners, saying the old lever one is engine serial up to #1219110, the new eccentric spring one is from #1219111 (I have no idea what my engine serial is though). Some say the change happened in June 1998 and this car was registered in October, so it's at least possible it has the new one. With some luck, I have the right tensioner. If not, I'll have to check how bad the bearings in the old tensioner seem and figure something out.
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Apr 13, 2018 10:11
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Serial number should be on the timing cover sticker. On the other hand, it's one bolt to take the timing cover off, so if the sticker is gone do that and take a look!
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Apr 13, 2018 22:26
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There was a serial number on the sticker. It was rather dirty so I just wiped it off with my finger to see the numbers, but that also completely wiped off the writing on the sticker, as it was about as firmly on there as the dust and dirt. All I could see was that it began with 15. Good thing is that it is way more than 12xxxxx. The one bolt I could get to also had nothing to do with the timing cover. I took it off (not really seeing what it was doing) and then yanked the cover off, and realized the bolt is part of an engine mount I have there. It doesn't hold the timing cover in, but something else I couldn't see is blocking it and I couldn't move it sufficiently to get a good look at the tensioner. May have broken some clips or something in the plastic, we shall see. Hadn't thought much of it, but since the V40 doesn't have the top engine mount or cross brace that the V70 does, it had to have something else. That something else is an engine mount pretty high on the passenger side that goes inside the timing belt, so that obviously has to come out. And for that, more mechanistry is needed than I could apply in a parking lot yesterday, but today is Timing Belt Day 2018 where everything is coming apart.
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Apr 14, 2018 06:29
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Timing Belt Day 2018: Partial success! Lessons learned! The V40 turned out to be pretty horrible access-wise, but not too complicated overall. There's an engine mount that needs to come off, and the timing belt cover is a two-piece one that seems pretty crappy in general (hard to manouver, brittle plastic that broke here and there). After taking the upper part off, you only see the top of the idler. To get the lower part off, you need to remove said engine mount as well as the serpentine belt idler. Also getting it back on without removing the harmonic balancer / crank pulley is nearly impossible. The crank pulley came off with not too much trouble with just a couple of braaapps with the proper Chicago Pneumatic air gun. After getting everything else off, it also turned out to have the correct new-style tensioner, so we were good on that. The timing belt idler though required even more disassembly of more covers and crap, and the idler bearing had no play or weirdness to it, so we just left that one alone. lovely access in general:  Shiny parts, and look at the pretty blue water pump impeller no living soul will likely ever see again:  We pioneered a revolutionary method of locking the camshafts in place, by driving in some wooden wedges between the valve cover and cam gears:  Spoiler alert: This is a stupid thing to do. Do not do this. It didn't give us too much trouble, and getting poo poo back together wasn't too bad. Hardest part was getting the water pump in and out between the block and the frame rail, and we had to do the timing belt tensioning blind. Also I should have bought a new serpentine belt but I wasn't quite sure which length I needed. Now I know I need a 1750mm one, but changing that later is not a big deal.  Then on to the V70, full of confidence and high hopes. After shuffling the power steering and coolant reservoirs out of the way (together with the ingenious air cooling duct to the ECU box), there was just so much room!! There the crank pulley center bolt caused us a bit of trouble (air gun wasn't powerful enough), but after locking the crank with a large torx bit in a torque converter bolt and applying about all available brute force it eventually gave way. All the parts are right there with easy access, in and out in no time. Here is the spacious V70 engine compartment, and one very visible clue as to where the fuckedness was upped.  After reassembling everything it turned out that the intake cam gear was hitting the cam cover, it was a few mm further out from the block than the exhaust side and could be moved a bit. Our clever way of jamming the gears in place has most likely broken the VVT cam gear thingy. I don't quite know how it's built and how we broke it, but it's slowly leaking oil and that seems a sure sign of it needing replacement. So, we took most stuff apart again. Not sure why but everyone says you need a cam locking tool to not gently caress up timing when taking the gears off, so we took the rear cam cover things off too to make a locking thing for it. I take full credit for the stupid idea of locking cams with wooden wedges, but Invalido drove it home. Not too much force to get them in, but clearly too much. Possibly only somewhat dumb for non-vvt gears, but it is clearly lethal for the VVT ones. So now we will get about $200 more experience out of this repair job. V70 is parked for now...
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Apr 14, 2018 20:25
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That sucks. You can take the gears off without the cam locking tool, but you can't put them back on in the correct time unless the cams are set to the correct time. There are no pins or keys for the gear. So the tool they sell not only locks the cams but times them as well. Then you torque the hub down with the timing mark in the right spot. The tool also takes the torque. If your VVT hub is the spring loaded one, then you get the extra joy of turning it against the spring while you set the timing. So you tighten, turn the gear, if the timing is off you loosen, readjust with no reference, and then tighten and check. Took me about 3 times the first time I tried. Then you torque it down without moving it. While you have the cam gears off, change the cam seals. They get leaky after a while, that's the only way to do it, so do it since you're there. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Apr 14, 2018 |
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Apr 14, 2018 20:44
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164 transmission pan update: pulled and yeah, the old gasket was really brittle and fell to pieces as I pulled it off. I cleaned up the pan pretty well, but it definitely looks like the metal is a little bowed up around each bolt hole, as if someone tightened a little too zealously. Should I reinstall and trust to the compressibility of the cork to even poo poo out, or do I need to source a new pan? (ugh) 
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Apr 14, 2018 20:51
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LloydDobler posted:There are no pins or keys for the gear. What? No pins or keys like every other overhead cam engine? Amazing. Anyway, I'll take any excuse to go cutting and grinding and welding on a Saturday night so I made a cam locking tool from scrap steel using the template in the Haynes manual. I figure the more effort I spend on it, the stronger the spell is to ward off ever having to use it more than once. Cam seals = Good Idea. Only the intake gear needs to come off, but we might as well do the exhaust one for good measure. By the way, Volvo, gently caress you for using 12, 13, 14, 15, 17 and 18mm on the same car. Pham Nuwen posted:Should I reinstall and trust to the compressibility of the cork to even poo poo out, or do I need to source a new pan? (ugh) If the deformation of the pan is just a small fraction of the thickness of the cork gasket and it's a pretty smooth bend, I would expect the gasket to swallow it. I guess you could sand/grind them gently to knock them down a bit too. Hard to tell from the picture how much it bends up.
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Apr 14, 2018 22:21
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That's easy to fix. First three minutes of this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mX775liZ-mc
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Apr 14, 2018 22:22
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Quote is not edit, damnit. Also, you know what other engine has unkeyed cam gears? The Yamaha V8 from the Taurus SHO... which evolved into the XC90 V8 
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Apr 14, 2018 22:23
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At least the Volvo hubs don't spin on the cam if you install them right.  ionn if you have any questions about getting the new cam hub on correctly let me know, I had to replace the exhaust hub in my V70R a while ago and I had to redo the job because I messed up the install.
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Apr 15, 2018 18:47
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My 1987 240 had the power locks and radio stop working the other day. Radio would not turn on and the powerlock relay would just click instead of locking and unlocking. I checked and cleaned the fuse and fuse holder on position 1 which is for the radio and it did not make a difference. I cleaned the fuse and fuse holder on position 8 which is for the power locks. Once I cleaned position 8 both the power locks and radio started working. What gives? Those seem like unrelated functions given by the fuse box label.
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Apr 16, 2018 02:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:That's easy to fix. First three minutes of this video: That's what I was going to suggest. A flat surface and a socket in a size you never use will also do the same thing. Metal can be straightened. mysteryberto posted:My 1987 240 had the power locks and radio stop working the other day. Radio would not turn on and the powerlock relay would just click instead of locking and unlocking. I checked and cleaned the fuse and fuse holder on position 1 which is for the radio and it did not make a difference. I cleaned the fuse and fuse holder on position 8 which is for the power locks. Once I cleaned position 8 both the power locks and radio started working. What gives? Those seem like unrelated functions given by the fuse box label. Car's 30 years old, someone could have easily wired radio power to the door lock circuit for no real good reason. Also most radios have two power lines, one is switched and one is always on. Maybe the always on is on fuse 8.
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Apr 16, 2018 14:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:That's easy to fix. First three minutes of this video: I did this and it's a bit straighter, I think it's enough for the cork to handle. I guess I'll put it on and add a bit of fluid, let it trickle in and fill the pan to make sure it's not gonna leak.
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Apr 16, 2018 15:01
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zundfolge posted:At least the Volvo hubs don't spin on the cam if you install them right. I would argue that having them designed "correctly" (keyed/indexed somehow) means you can only install them right and they cannot spin. I'm sure there are engines where this is designed worse, but also lots where it is better. Though I understand car manufacturers have little or no reason to make this kind of thing easy to do for the home-gamer but would rather save a machining step in manufacturing. zundfolge posted:ionn if you have any questions about getting the new cam hub on correctly let me know I do have some questions, but some of them might get clearer once I can look at the parts a bit closer. It's Invalidos car, and it will be a week or two before all the parts are available and there is time to do something about it. Is it basically just a matter of aligning the cams with the locking tool in the back, and then mounting the cam gears with the timing marks aligned properly? How much precision is needed? I mean when just changing the belt you need precision of exactly 1 tooth to be in the right spot, but how close do you need to be here for things to be correct? Sub-millimeter, or is 1-2 mm sufficient? The cam locking tool had a little bit of slop to it (I ground down the steel bits a little bit too far) so the cams can wiggle a bit, a couple mm by the gear teeth. I guess that can be improved upon. We will need to make a new one anyway, as it just bent when we tried to undo the bolt holding the intake cam gear (the broken vvt thing). Perhaps the brrrapp-machine will take care of that though, but we didn't have time for it yesterday.
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Apr 16, 2018 15:25
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zundfolge posted:At least the Volvo hubs don't spin on the cam if you install them right. I'd like to know as much as possible, obviously. I'll be installing the older type of unit, part number 1275362. I think that's the spring loaded one. Bro welded up a cam locking tool out of mild steel bar stock, and we tried using a cheater bar with the huge torx bit to remove the intake cam gear. No dice, the locking tool twisted from the torque. Then we tried the electric impact, but the bolt wouldn't budge. Then we ran out of time and had to quit wrenching until the weekend after next at the earliest. Luckily ionn has lots of junk cars he doesn't really need, and I'm in a loaner v40 for the duration so there's no real hurry fixing my car. It still suck that it's broken, obviously. I've ordered a junkyard VVT assembly (both hub and gear), new OEM hubs were just too spendy. Seals and cover cap are on order too, as well as a cam locking tool.  I think we might probably get away with fabbing a better tool, especially if we use the pneumatic rattle gun to loosen the bolt, but time is a factor. Also it would be nice to get a really solid lock so I can use a torque wrench on a rigid camshaft on the re-install.
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Apr 18, 2018 07:37
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Towbar chat from a page or two ago, I fitted a Witter VL48 fixed bar kit to my wife's 2004 (new shape) S40 last weekend, apart from snapping a bolt (my fault, always run a tap up a hole before you try threading into rust) no issues. I need to decide quickly whether to buy the dedicated relay kit or splice in a generic relay, but I'm cheap so I kind of know the answer already. Anyway, the same kit is listed as being for S40 and V40 2004- and C70 2006-
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Apr 26, 2018 10:28
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cakesmith handyman posted:Anyway, the same kit is listed as being for S40 and V40 2004- and C70 2006- I guess it should say V50 there. If it's the 2nd gen S40, it could also fit that generation C70 and the V50 (all P1 platform), but not the 1st gen V40/S40. Possibly the current-gen (2013-) V40 which is supposedly still a P1. At least in Europe though, for the 2004 model year there were both 1st and 2nd gen S40's sold (but I guess it may have varied between markets).
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Apr 27, 2018 20:42
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Sorry my typo, it is V50, hence matching our facelift s40
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Apr 27, 2018 22:26
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Got the pan back on, found a slow drip from the shifter shaft so I ordered a replacement seal/bushing and installed it today. By this morning, though, a slow drip had developed at the plug. I backed it out a turn and then snugged it up a little more, trying to stay gentle, we'll see. I think the big thing left down there is the final rubber bushing/grommet on the shift linkage. It's just straight up missing, and the pieces are held together with a ziptie and a twist of teflon tape, which actually do a pretty good job but of course it's wobbly and janky.  I'm not even 100% sure what to call the thing I need, and I haven't had any luck browsing parts sites either. It seems like most anything that's flexible and about the right size would work, but what kind of store would have just a bunch of bushings in stock? O'Reilly didn't have anything.
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Apr 28, 2018 16:40
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It looks like the linkage is a ball socket? It probably crosses over to the 240 series. If I remember right it's a specialized plastic bushing that either snaps on firmly or has a retaining clip after snapping it on. The TB user 'hiperfauto' is named Ian and his partner Eric (can't find his username for some reason) run a vintage Volvo parts and service shop in southern California called (duh) high performance auto. They are a fountain of information, if they don't stock the part you need they can get it. And if they can't get it, nobody can. They're the ones who informed me that there are 3 different parking brake cable lengths for the 1800/140 series which allowed me to buy a stock parking brake cable to finish the 1800 axle conversion in my 122 without any real hassle. And they had them all in stock. I recommend buying from them because they are doing a huge service for the vintage Volvo community. Notice he's the only guy who responded to your thread over there? That's why I keep sending you there. Go ask him and give him the order when he immediately responds with the right answer.
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Apr 29, 2018 07:59
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All right all right, I just sent him a PM asking if he stocks that piece. I keep asking here because I like SA better than TB but goddamn, Ian really knows his poo poo. Edit: drat, he's the best. Helped me figure out some vacuum poo poo via PM too, and is now throwing in a used fitting that I needed for free. Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Apr 30, 2018 |
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Apr 29, 2018 15:52
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Hey Volvo Goons- Sorry to poo poo up the thread with another “should I buy car” post but I trust those who know Volvo: 2004 XC70, 160k, was a rental car for about two years and then a personal driver ever since. Got all regular service but I didn’t see anything explicitly about the 90k timing chain replacement. 3500 obo. Thoughts? Don’t want to buy a ticking time bomb and I will be going over to see it but wanted to be proactive in knowing what could be a terror waiting to happen. Y’all are the best!
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Apr 30, 2018 19:26
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Same as my last reply to you at the top of this page. If there's anything about the shifting that doesn't feel right, run away screaming. Timing belt is a 110k or 10 year interval so it's probably been done. On these cars it's the idler and tensioner that wear out and throw the belt. If you do it for safety, definitely do the water pump as well. Most mechanics recommend the water pump every other belt change. I do it every time for peace of mind.
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Apr 30, 2018 20:15
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LloydDobler posted:Same as my last reply to you at the top of this page. Thanks for reassuring me on that stuff. Went a drove it: was really quite nice/smooth, and shifting in both triptronic and automatic felt great. Owner said his mechanic identified a problem with the fuel gasket and so he doesn't fill the tank all the way up, because it leaks when he does so. Shift and drove very smoothly, only a couple of electrical bugs like the passenger window not working. He was willing to do 3k. I am going to run it down to the Autozone and run the codes on it to make sure i'm not missing anything. I'm thinking it might be okay to take next steps and take it to a dealer/mechanic to get checked. Am I doing my due diligence? edit: looking at other forums, there was a fuel pump recall that affected the year this car was built. Is a leak when the tank is above 3/4 going to be because of the fuel pump? are there any tell tale signs i can look for when i go back to see the car or am i just up a creek and going to have to eat 800-1000 in addition to what i buy it for? double neurosis edit: https://repairpal.com/recall/09V483000 would this be why it happens? could i get this fixed for free if i am the 3rd owner at 160k? SapientCorvid fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Apr 30, 2018 |
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Apr 30, 2018 23:19
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The fuel pumps use thick and soft rubber o-rings for the fuel pump flange so I think your research is right and it's probably the cracked flange. Definitely try to get that fixed under recall, since it's a safety issue Volvo has been very generous about fixing it. The job is a little tricky but otherwise not incredibly hard to fix yourself, the pump should be around $250 if you shop online, it's probably $500 from the dealer. And it's been redesigned so it doesn't happen anymore. The hardest part is not splashing fuel inside the car while pulling the parts out. Then the car stinks for weeks. If you do try it yourself, you absolutely need the wrench for the big flange nut, it's plastic so the usual tricks like a hammer and drift just break it. There are youtube videos showing the tricky parts of changing it. It has a siphon hose because the tank straddles the driveshaft. So you have to thread that hose over to the other side of the tank.
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May 1, 2018 15:19
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The story of The Two Moderately Competent Brothers Doing Things To Volvos continues. Here's what happened last time to that mild steel cam locking tool I made very quickly:  With the proper cam locking tool ($80 for something that may or may not ever be used again), getting the old broken cam gear off was as easy as you could wish for.  Changed the seal, aligned the junkyard-fresh new one best as we could (probably got the teeth within 1mm of how it was), and the engine seems to run just fine. Cam gear stays in place and no signs of oil leak. Job done. As for the old V40, we just put a new serpentine belt on. Protip for anyone who does that: If the parts site says you should have a 1750/1751mm one (I got a 6PK1751), get a slightly longer one. The one that came off the car was marked 6PK1762, and Volvo branded, and well-behaved with regards to installation (probably helped that it was old and worn though). The 1751mm could be put on with lots of effort, but it was with absolutely no safety margin whatsoever. It also needs a new fuel pump, as it has gotten the same symptoms as I've had with two earlier S/V40's, namely that the engine starts misfiring or stalls when below half tank and going uphill (and gets worse with less fuel or steeper incline). Waiting for one to arrive, but it will be a job to enjoy while parked outside my apartment. The question now is how do I reset the service light on that thing? I would like to have that dealt with before I sell it. I've done it successfully with the odometer reset button on a couple of 1999s (S/V40, 2.0T and T4), but I had a 1998 V40 T4 a few years back where I couldn't reset it (it was a single-use lemons racer so few fucks were given though). I think I read some web page back then that it only worked from 1999 onwards, but various youtube videos and others claim it works for 1998 or even 1997. I can't get it to work despite trying all the variations of it I can find. I've tried a couple of OBD2 devices, but those can only clear ECU error codes. How is it done on this thing? Is it stuck in the era of needing dealer-specific tools to do it? Do I need to cut a wire?
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May 1, 2018 20:34
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ionn posted:The question now is how do I reset the service light on that thing? I would like to have that dealt with before I sell it. I've done it successfully with the odometer reset button on a couple of 1999s (S/V40, 2.0T and T4), but I had a 1998 V40 T4 a few years back where I couldn't reset it (it was a single-use lemons racer so few fucks were given though). Yeah 98 is the weird year where the dealer tool is the only way to reset the service light. Easiest solution is to pop the cluster out and pull the bulb. It is literally an oil change reminder based on like 6500 miles and nothing more. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 23:33 on May 1, 2018 |
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May 1, 2018 23:17
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Had to ditch my SAAB and my wife picked up a 2004 XC90. The guy that sold it said the transmission was replaced under recall, but from the first post I see that it may still be a replace item every 60-80k item? Is that still true or has the problem been fixed? Also the steering knocks at low speeds if you jerk the wheel back and forth, I'm going to assume steering arms? I also have to get heavy on the brakes, but they don't feel spongey, are there problems with the boosters on these? edit: Overall there is good record keeping, every fluid change, problems, gear chain, timing chain, everything is on file. I have 110k on it. Its actually in really good shape for the year from what I can currently tell. There was a recall for some ball joints on the tie rods at 15k miles, maybe its the same thing? parts listed 30760807-5 and 30760806-7 Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 02:56 on May 2, 2018 |
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May 2, 2018 02:29
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
